ill try to describe the parts as best as possible most should be available at your local orange box (or blue if your like that... :)
the theroy goes like this (as seen on dyson vacs) get the dirt spinning really fast like a tornado
the heavier particles of dirt cant get to the top of the canister to the exhaust port and fall thru the small opening into the waste container (i.f. 5 gallon bucket)
addition:
the distance between the intake and the outflow is key... too close and the dirt jumps the gap the 2" outflow pvc is pushed down into the main chamber a couple of inches creating a secondary air current up the wall across the lid and back down into the chamber pushing the dirt away from the from the exit and back into the main wall cyclone ) if i can find a camera small enough ill video the interior ...the irony is if i put something in there to film it its going to change the air flow
"no fair you'll change the outcome by measuring it " ...hubert farnsworth
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these were about $4 make sure it has the rubber seal ring
apiece of ply is good for supporting the lid for longevity
4" pvc had laying around
2"pvc ditto
there was a cart of short pre cut pieces at my store so you didnt have to buy 10' sections
1 toilet floor mount adapter
4" 3" flat adapter
2" to 4" cone adapter
4" to link with 2" t 45 not 90
4" coupler
4" to 2" flat adapter
2x 2" couplers
a tube of rtv red gasket maker
i had this from a auto store you can get this for chimneys stove to so it may be at a hardware store






































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It looks like just separation from gravity settling here, no cycloniceffects. Very efficient for larger stuff like sand and PVCsawdust, but not as effective for stuff like dust.
In this configuration it isn't really any different than the design ofthe shopvac driving it.
Significantly greater separation (and probably reduced parts count)would probably be achieved by having the intake go into the edge of thebucket lid, pointing along (not at) the bucket wall, with the outletstill in the center of the bucket.
Hay neorazz, thanks for the link - that is cool, I might have a go at something similar myself.
The asymmetry of the setup, the variable inlet conditions, etc. all play into the vortex generation.
Taping some small strings to the inside of the tube would allow you to visualize the flow. Also, adding a clear flat plate on the top, instead of the PVC, would allow you to see the strings and their movement.
Hey, but it works.
P.S. the uncertainty principle applies to quantum mechanics. Fluid mechanics can be chaotic, and this flow probably is unstable, but viewing the flow isn't going to change the flow. Drilling a small hole in the top or side, adding a light, and sticking a camera in there most likely would work great to see what is going on.
Thanks to the poster regarding static buildup (a real concern with highly flammable, fine sawdust). Can anyone tell me how to ground PVC?
I had an improvment idea. I dont know if it will work but ill throw it out there. What if you put a semi fine mesh screen to where your vaccum hose attaches to your bucket. That way, if anything does make it past the vortex, it wil hit the screen and when the vaccum is turned off this debri will fall into the bucket due to gravity?
Just a word to the wise: pvc will cause a lot of static build-up andwill need to be grounded otherwise it can spark and ignite the microfine particles. Hate to see a good idea go up in flames, so to speak.
There was also an interesting episode of Mythbusters that covered static electricity and ignition as well.
I'm not saying it's impossible but that it is highly improbable.
Also, this is awesome
L