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Having a dog and little kids means there is a lot of dog poo to be picked up to keep the yard clean and the kids safe from illness and parasites. I decided to use an old HDPE barrel to build a dog waste digester. I'll place the dog poo in the digester and add bacteria from time to time to break the waste down. Much like a home's septic system.
Step 155 gallon barrel
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I started with an old 55 gallon HDPE barrel. This one used to have soy sauce in it. It was also used as a rain barrel and compost bin, so it's dirty inside, but it won't matter.
Into this I've slid a second bin. This bin has a ring of holes drilled into the sides so that it will act as a bucket up to the ring of holes but anything more than that can run through the holes. (I also put some much larger holes above this ring so that, if necessary I can flush larger solids out of the top bin).
I'll add water, septic starter and poo to the top bucket and see what happens. Each time I add poo I'll squirt a tiny amount of water and septic starter in as well.
In theory this should allow the waste that has broken down to simply leach away into the soil about 18 inches under the lawn…..
I've yet to start it off though!
Wish me luck!
Whatever it's called, I'm going to put dog poo in it and hopefully never have to touch it after that point! LOL!
"If you have dogs, you have poop. And how to dispose of that poop is an issue. Traditional composting theory and most agricultural extension offices will tell you that dog manure may not be added to compost bins.
However, in a cooperative study between mushers and the Fairbanks Soil and Water Conservation District in Alaska, researchers are finding that with some special precautions, dog waste can be successfully composted. It’s important that you follow the compost recipe closely. The additive to the dog waste must be a carbon source such as sawdust. You can’t just add dog manure to your regular compost bins or piles and expect to get good, safe results. You must also make sure the recipe gets to the temperature specified. A long-stemmed thermometer is useful for this. If you do not reach the "magic number" of 140 degrees F, you may not kill the pathogens present in the dog waste.
At this point, the Natural Resources Conservation Service is not sure the compost gets hot enough to kill Toxicara canis, or large roundworms (one of the most heat-resistant pathogens found in dog manure). The researchers in the study were not able to find dog waste samples infected with roundworm because mushers are so good at controlling it. It is not known whether roundworms will be killed during the process. For that reason, only use the resulting compost on non-food plantings such as flower beds and shrubs."
As I said before, it's a risk I'm not willing to take and I don't have the time to manage a true composter.
If you live in Alaska, the following might be of interest:
"In 1991, the Fairbanks Soil and Water Conservation District started a study which showed that dog waste composting is practical in Interior Alaska. On-site composting systems can be used by any kennel. Interested mushers composted dog waste under different conditions. They took the internal temperature of the compost and recorded their results. Their experiences were very positive and most felt their composting systems worked well. "It was much simpler than I expected" was a common reaction. Good composting on-site, eliminates transporting dog waste to a disposal facility. This saves time, energy and landfill space. Good composting is essentially odorless and reduces the volume of waste by over 50%."
http://www.uaf.edu/ces/compost/dogs/
I could probably keep a compost pile working for a couple months a year, but it's not worth the time or effort on my part.
Thanks for the concern about the semantics of "compost" and "septic", but I don't see this line of back and forth being necessary for this simple instructable.
Just for the record, the term "dog waste composter" is how a bunch of the products on the market label themselves, so you might go after them for the improper use of the term... ;)
I'm curious to know more about your level of technical expertise when it comes to municipal sewage treatment facilities. You say that they are taking a "resource" and doing "nothing" with it. Which resource might that be?
Is it the dangerous and highly contagious pathogens that sicken and kill millions of people a day around the planet who don't have access to properly designed and managed sewage facilities?
Or are you talking about sludge, the remnants of the bacteria that cleansed the dissolved solids and reduced the organic compounds that cause low oxygen levels and fish kills if untreated sewage was discharged directly into streams and lakes?
Sludge has been used for composting purposes, and it works just fine if you have the technology to remove enough water and a cost effective source of carbon such as wood waste from mills or tree trimming services. Many municipalities struggle with what to do with their sludge because there is no market for it. That's where a huge amount of the cost is, the tax dollars you talk about. Maybe you could buy a truck and drive around and pick up the sludge and take it home! Most towns will give it away for free!
If you see a profitable resource that is being under utilized, why doesn't anyone else?
Here's some info on the uses and risks to the public of sewage sludge: http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/sewagesludge.htm
As to why they don't do anything with it in the US? My guess is because it requires retooling and rethinking and the fact that no one has forced them to do it yet. But there are pockets of hope.
I'm not sure why you keep touting China as a leader in environmental protection!? They are one of the most egregious polluters in the developed world.
There are many sewage treatment plants in the US that discharge PARTIALLY treated waste water into wetlands that they own to allow the local flora and fauna to reclamate it naturally. If a town has the room for such a faculty, it makes fiscal AND environmental sense to let the plants and animals in the ponds break down the remaining organicl compounds. The trouble in a lot of cases is that the sewage treatment plants that once were on the edge of town have now been built around and cannot expand. At that point they have to use mechanical methods to treat the waste water.
If what you say about New York dumping sewage is true, then you need to turn your aggression at the EPA and start sending them letters because they're wasting precious time nickel and dime-ing to death reasonable projects with insane permitting requirements. They should be going after "Big Fish" like New York!
If you'd like to continue this lesson on sewage treatment plant design, I'd be happy to discuss it with you through PM's. I'll pull out my text books and we can go chapter by chapter.
This will be the last off topic response I have on this instructable.
Second, I'm glad we can agree that "it makes fiscal and environmental sense to let the plants and animals in ponds break down... organic compounds."
Third, the lack of adequate sewage treatment plants, in terms of size, number, and type, reflects a lack of political will. I'm not sure what "can't" means here. We certainly can and, indeed, we must if we don't want to further the destruction of the environment.
Bruc33ef, what is up with being so technical about the name. Whatever the name, it is great way to eliminate dog poo and way better than throwing it away. Give the guy a pat on the back for posting a good idea. It is here for you to use, not criticize.
There is a lot of information out there now on how to do this. Basically, you need to add carbon-rich material such as twigs, branches, dried leaves, wood chips, sawdust, etc., to balance the nitrogen-rich manure, green grass clippings, food scraps, etc.
There are hot/active methods (eg the Berkley Method) which will make compost in 18 days or less, or the slow/passive methods which take a year or more. Your choice.
I have seen the same thing done with large PVC pipes buried in the ground also.