Hi, For making posterboard models, drawing them out on white posterboard works very well. To make an equilateral triangle, use a compass and so as not to make the model too big, use about 1 1/2" lengths. First draw a 9" line with a ruler about 1/4" from the bottom of your posterboard for a guide line. With your compass follow the line making 1 1/2" increments along the guide line. With your compass using the first point along your guide line draw a short arc above two points along the guide line, then move your compass to the next point and draw an additional arc making the two arc lines cross. This is the top of your equilateral triangle. Repeat the same triangle at the other end of your guide line. Now you may draw a staight line across the tops of the two triangles which gives you the height and another guide line for another row of equilateral triangles. Repeat this making triangle arc lines as you go making your equilateral triangle grid pattern. You will also notice to make a half triangle, all you need to do is measure 3/4" from a triangle corner to the center of the base of a 1 1/2" triangle. Using the patterns provided on this Instructable as a guide you will be able to make one of these posterboard models. I hope this helps you. Let me know if I can be of any more assistance. Have a great day. :)

Thank you, whitepaper_01, I am very familiar with Bucky Fuller and am acquainted with much of his writings and works. Back in the early eighties I became a dome enthusiast but have discovered Alain's website and his interesting and new concept in equilateral triangle geometry as applied toward buildings. Check out his very interesting site at www.equilatere.net/ Have a great day. :)

You are welcome mikeandre. This method seemed to work well with low frequency structures. The 3P dome shown in the photo is a favorite of mine as it has some interesting qualities as a shelter or greenhouse. If you were to study the many different designs Alain Lobel has on his website under "Families", I think you will find one you would like. Thanks for your comments. :)

Thanks, Fixerdad for your kind words. The hubs worked well, especially with light, low frequency structures such as these. A person could use actual 1/16" or 1/8" steel strap for the hubs and 2X4's for a structure needing greater load bearing, but bending would be more difficult, you would probably need a good vise. :)