All parts and components are recycled from old electronics broken yard solar lights. Only new parts are rechargeable batteries and thin coated wire for toroids.
This is my first Instructable so forgive me if it's rough, I will make every attempt to improve it, so questions comments and all constructive criticism is welcome and expected.
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toroid-from old PC I got from garbage
L7805 voltage regulator, 1N4001 diodes, 2N3904 NPN Transistor- all from broken enlarger timer
miscellaneous wires from many broken things I horded
The only thing I buy is enameled wire, but you can reuse old CAT5 wire too.
And some sort of an enclosure for whole thing to fit in I used Altoids tin but I also wanted to use Apple USB Power Adapter box, Its clear so its awesome, maybe next project.
So My green twist is two twists. All parts wear, and can be for you, re purposed from broken, discarded electronic waist, And second twist It uses solar power to use however you like or want.










































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In theory, you could charge the batteries with the tin closed, but unless you stood it on its end, you'd basically only get half the power.
The only thing you'd have to worry about breaking is the connecting wire between them - but just make certain it's long enough.
Someone pointed out that the voltage regulator you cited was wrong, indeed it was, the correct one is LM 7805 Voltage Regulator.
Also, could the author just clear up something for me, why are the USB parts sticking out of your tin the male parts? Things needing charging already have the male part, the charger should have the girly goods.
I am not knocking, please do not think that, I just think this article needs A LOT of cleaning up.
Thanks!
-TheSmurf.
the solar panels to the joule thief dose sound a good idea but dose not work as expected.
yes it ups the voltage but in doing so you lose the ampage needed to charge the batterys.
i found i had to leave the batterys to charge for longer due to the little ampage comming out of the jt unit.
now connecting the solar panels direct to the battery with a diode inline to stop discharge thru the panels would be better.
also haveing the panels in parrale for more ampage and a single battery would be better that is if the usb jt unit will work correctly from the 1.5 volt to up it to the 5 volt needed.
now the joule thief from the battery to the usb seems a good idea if it works correctly.
running a secondary coil on the jt connected to the voltage regulator would be better if it works as this will draw less power from the bettery then if it would wired to the led output of the standerd jt
a schottky has a lower voltage drop
Great project, well done.
Bill
It is:
Pirate88179
If you have any questions, jet let me know. Check out the Joule Thief topic over at Overunity.com and you will see many great variations on this circuit. I thought I was doing some nice things with it but these folks really have gone beyond anything I would have thought of. I am still learning and also I like to share what I have learned, which is how I learned.
Bill
but with the exception of solar garden lights, very few complete JT circuits are present.
They can be re-purposed fairly easily. In fact, most of my joule thief components have come directly from ancient(p2 and older era)defunct laptops. The newer laptops tend to have surface mount components that are difficult for me to work on, without proper magnification(which I don't have in my "recycled electronics" shop area).
I THINK what you are refering to, that you found on t HP motherboard, is the ferrite cores. The types and sizes of core vary, but all will work in a JT circuit. you may just not have optimal efficiency. Usually not a problem though, as you're STARTING with "dead" batteries otherwise destined for the recycler. Wasted 'free energy' is still free.
we've been discussing this chip on another 'ible.... :-)
So, selection of components and toroid winding are somewhat critical, as the USB output joule thief can EASILY overvolt the L7805.
For long term operation and reliability any how.
It's a fairly robust chip, and properly heat sinked, can survive much greater adversity than it's spec sheet lists. especially at such low currents.