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These are the best rings to be made from the most common material. I have been making coin rings for a few weeks now. My aunt got me started by saying how she loved her ring she made As a child. I was touched and spent countless hours and coins trying an trying to re create it. I made my brother in laws brother a set of these for wedding rings.
Tools and cost:
Tap and die punch set- 25$ harbor freight
Steel hammer- 15$ any store with tools
Nylon tear drop mallet- 10$ harbor freight
Mandrel- amazon.com 15$
Torch and propane- 25$ any tool store and camping section if Walmart or sporting goods.
Coin- any country any coin. USA coins before 1964 are 90% silver, 10% copper. Post 1965 are made from 90% copper and 10% nickel.

Step 1: Punching or Drilling the Whole.

So to start you should find the approx. center of the coin. Whether it's be a quarter, nickel, half dollar or a coin from another country. The place where the whole is decides the beauty of the ring. It's heart breaking when you mess up the whole. Once you find the center drill or use a punch and die set. (I use a punch and die set it is much faster and I find it easier.)

Once the whole is drilled or punch is punched you are ready for the next step.

Step 2: Folding the Coin

In this step you need pliers and water, a ring mandrel, a nylon mallet and a torch.

I have become used to the heat of coins when I anneal coins I do not quench them. I think they are easier to work when they are hot. Although it does hurt more to get touched by a red hot coin.

Anyways get a stone ore a brick to heat your coin on. Turn on your torch and heat the coin on the brick until it turns light red. Once it is red then take the heat off. The next part is crucial to the ring appearance. What ever side you want on the outside of the ring you want to face up on the mandrel. Then take the nylon mallet and tap the coin until the edges bend down. Repeat this step of heating and folding until the coin is ne'er flat to the mandrel, but not all the way.

Step 3: Folding the Coin Part Two

Once the coin is ne'er touching the mandrel flip it. Now the coin center hole should be closer to the bottom of the mandrel.

Step 4: Finishing the Fold

Now that the coin is flipped heat the coin again same as before, but out the larger sized of the coin facing the tip of the mandrel. Then continue hammering with the nylon mallet and keep heating as needed. Soon the ring should be completely flat on the mandrel.

Step 5: Completed Fold

Once the ring is flat on the mandrel on both sides the ring is mostly done. Now to just remove the sharp edge and left over center debris. Take the non rippled edge of the coin along 220 grit sand paper to get a nice flat bottom. Then take the Sand paper to the inner edge of the coin to take out the sharp edge.

Step 6: Polishing to a Mirror Finish

I absolutely recommend getting Mothers mag and aluminum polish. This stuff works great and it is cheap. It can be found at Walmart, autozone, or amazon. It runs $3-$7 depending on where you buy and what size. This stuff works on nearly all metal items and hasn't let me down. To polish put a dab just a small amount on the ring and rub on a towel or cloth. It takes a bit of elbow grease, but it is worth the work. The ring is a silver ring I made a while ago different type of ring, but it's polished with this stuff just to show its result. I gave it a texture I call dragon scale so when the light hits it the light bounces everywhere.

Step 7: Better Look at the Tools

Here's a picture of my tools I'll explain there uses from left to right. The gray box is my punch and die set. It makes perfect holes in sheet metal and coins, it's easy to use. Next it's my steel hammer used on my punch and die set. I hit the punch until it goes through the coin. Next is my mandrel, this sizes rings and makes them round. I have my multi-tool I use for pliers to pick up the hot metal to avoid severe pain :). Then I have my nylon mallet that is softer then my steel hammer. It has to be soft so you don't flatten the words and the image on the rings. Next is my torch. You can get fuel cheap in the camping section (it's same as a camp in stove fuel). Then my polish and rag to polish coin rings.

Step 8: Notes and Things to Know

This is a way to make unique art. No two coins are alike, as coins are various in ages and conditions and they always come out looking different. Some of these online cost $50 or less or more. I do this as a hobby and a job. I am 16 and I enjoy watching people marvel at things they don't see everyday. When heating the coins you can quench it to cool it and make it more handle-able and it will still work out, but I don't because I can make them faster and easier without cooling them. Also any coin will work as long as it is big enough to fit on the mandrel. If you have any questions I will respond to them, this is my first guide ever!!! Online some people charge to share knowledge and I am against that. I hope you can learn to make rings as I have. I share this to bring the joy to you as it has to me.

Step 9: My Works

These are my rings I've made. I started because my aunt talked about her fathers ring he made for his wedding ring and my aunt made one and I tried to make one to make the memory come to life again.
<p>The word is HOLE!! You punch or drill a HOLE.....the word WHOLE means entire, as in....I can't believe I ate the WHOLE pie!</p>
<p>Don't be an A-Whole (different from an A-hole-more inclusive),the guys writes a good article and u are worried about semantics (grammar) specifically. G.A.L..</p>
<p>I wonder if you have tried this without using the torch? I've seen other instructables where coins were used to make coins and they were just hammered.</p>
<p>Metal becomes brittle when hammered. The heat treatment and quenching will anneal the metal and prevent fracturing. The metal sounds different when you hit it as it becomes brittle, time to heat it up and quench it before the metal breaks. It's necessary if the metal gets hammered as much as one of these projects.</p>
<p>ever tried making a steel drum? They don't use heat other than that of the sun there in the garden, I don't think...</p>
<p>I use a &quot;dapping block&quot; to get the bowl-shape before hammering on the mandrel. And even this can be nearly removed if you use a length of PVC pipe and pound that down onto the coin. I have made many coin rings without once using the hammer (which can create dents and dings if done too much or done too hard.)</p>
<p>In step nine, what kind of coin did you use in the 6th picture? I like the lettering.</p>
<p>I'm going to do this with a gold dollar coin, thanks for the instructable.</p>
<p>How did you do your dragon scale (hammered) finish? I like it.</p>
while I cannot be sure of this, I think the kind of texture is based mainly on how you sand the ring
Thanks!! It would have worked better if I had the nylon mallet. But I am happy with the results
<p>You've done quite well with yours and there is a lot of possibilities here for increasing style and quality.</p><p> There are so many varying ways to achieve the same goals...</p><p>I anneal my coins with the torch to loosen the molecular arrangement of the metal then quickly quench in cold water. -This creates a basic 'case-hardened' structure that makes bending the coin easier. And because the coin isn't red-hot, working with it you avoid burning your hands or nylon mallet. </p><p>Re-annealing once or twice more during the mandrel process can be beneficial to help prevent microscopic stress fracturing of the metal.</p><p>When the hammered coin is sufficiently flattened to the face of the mandrel, I return the coin ring to the Dapping Block and using a drifting cylinder (a cylinder of solid metal slightly wider than the coin, this can be steel but softer metal like brass might work better to reduce the possibility of marring,) either pound or press (using a bench vice) the drifting cylinder into the coin, to cause the ring to 'bulge' around the equator. The coin needs to be 'flipped' a time or two in order to get the bulge in 'the equator' region. Practice makes perfection here...) </p><p>This creates a 'comfort fit' and also reduces the diameter (the 'size') of the ring as well. </p><p>Once the ring is sufficiently 'bulged,' I can up-size the ring a size, maybe two sizes if necessary, using a 'ring sizer' while still for the most part, retaining the 'comfort fit' bulge we created (see attached image...)</p>
This really makes it look professional. I'm doing this from now on.
When do u use the steel hammer and when do u use the tear drop mallet
Use metal hammer to punch the hole. Use rubber mallet to form around mandril.
To make the hole punching step super easy there is a free template that you can download from www.CoinRingTools.com
<p>Indeed, lots of fun! Foreign coins are good as well. Some are a nice mix of metals and very workable as well as forgiving. Annealing is tricky. Bi-metal coins are awesome. Just knock out the center and you have a perfect hole. Most bi-metal coins from Mexico have worked well for me. Thanks for the info !</p>
I love your project but please change &quot;whole&quot; to &quot;hole&quot; where appropriate. Kinda ruins it for the reader. ;) Thanks for the instruction.
Where else can you get a tap and die punch set $15 dollars
<p>where to buy coins rings in the United States? Is there any physical store, where I can see, choose and buy?</p>
that's pretty cool! I've never heard of anyone making rings like this, definitely unique! ?
<p>I created my first coin ring yesterday. I'll attach the photo. </p><p>I have not yet sanded the imperfections in this image. What works VERY WELL for sanding the fine finish are these fingernail boards you can get in any pharmacy. I used a 'foam-based' fingernail file that has multiple faces. Using that, a super-glossy finish was made possible. I need to post that photo, -it looks SO much finer than this prototypical example:</p>
<p>great job keep up doing it !!</p>
<p>Is there a technique used to prevent the rings from oxidizing with your fingers?</p>
<p>Coat them with a clear finish. Clear nail polish works well.</p>
If the ring turns out too big how would you make it smaller?
<p>If you are doing this as an occasional hobby, starting over is the best option. There are ring stretchers/reducers you can get for $150 to $400. A bit pricey but if you are making coin rings as a part time business it may be justified.</p>
<p>Make new one. :)</p>
<p>you would have to cut it with a jewelers saw or tin snips and then rejoin it with silver solder, but this would ruin the effect I think as whatever pattern you had on the coin wouldn't match up and you would have a thin silver line where you joined it.</p>
<p>hi there just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to show us how you make your rings. keep up the good work!!! </p>
When u hit the coin with the hammer on the mandriel do u hut the outside of the coin the jagged edge or the coins side like where the face would be
I started with a 1/4 inch hole, but it doesn't fit on the mandrel until you use the Doming block, also it depends on how big of a ring you're making if you going for a small ring like 8 or less you want a small initial hole, but if you make a size 13 or so you may want a larger hole.
<p>How big of a hole did you start with?</p>
<p>I enjoyed your instructions, they were very clear, thanks again</p>
<p>Pretty Cool. Thanks for the guide. Helped me along my way.</p>
<p>I read an Instructey like this some years ago where the Guy called the US Treasury Dept. He even gave the name and the way to get in touch of the Lady that told Him that the rule is if the money is rendered so as It can't be spent then all is cool.</p>
<br>&quot;U.S. Title 18, Chapter 17, Section 331: Prohibits among<br>other things, fraudulent alteration and mutilation of coins. This<br>statue does not, however, prohibit the mutilation of coins if done<br>without fraudulent intent if the mutilated coins are not used<br>fraudulently.&quot;<br>
I also do understand there are debates on whether this is legal or not. I have read and talked to people on this, I don't know about other countries and the rules they have in place. If you don't feel this is legal you can do this other ways too. One way is to use a token or something else that is round and has writing or images. Another is to use foreign coins. I have tried them and some don't work as well as others because the thickness and composition of the coins could affect the quality. For example I used a French coin ( I think) that was made of aluminum and it was very easy to form. I did my research and to the best of my knowledge, and four hours of research this passes as a novelty and not illegal.
I'm not sure sizes of U.S. Coins actually sorry, I know that you can always enlarge rings and I have made size 8 rings into size 13 the only problem is that the ring can show stretch marks.
They way I was told it was legal was by reading online and talking to people. So long as you don't change the value it's not fraud. As long as you sell it as a novelty item and not as currency you are fine. The money is actually yours it is property of you if you want to paint your car it's yours go ahead. Same with coins so long as it isn't fraud where you change the value, or melt it for higher scrap price.
<p>Not going to devalue this 'ible, because it's very nice work. However, a warning should have been posted to clarify that it IS illegal.</p><p>First, reference Title 18, Chapter 17 of the U.S. Code. This clarifies that one may NOT mutilate or alter currency.</p><p>Second, the currency is property of the US Government. The currency itself hold no real value. That is why they are often called &quot;bank notes&quot;. They are certificates of debt (from the government to you). All currency is US Government property. The only institutions that are LEGALLY allowed to destroy currency is the US Mint and the Federal Reserve.</p>
<p>I have to disagree on your assessment of the legality issue. Supporters of the legality of altering coins, to make them jewelry, highlight the part in the code about fraud:</p><p>&quot;Whoever <strong>fraudulently</strong> alters, defaces, mutilates, impairs, diminishes, falsifies, scales, or lightens any of the coins coined at the mints of the United States...&quot; (<a href="http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/uscode/18/I/17/331" rel="nofollow">http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/uscode/18/I/17/331</a>)</p><p>This means, as long as you don't try to claim a quarter as a piece of currency other than a quarter, it's legal.</p><p>For further support, you can reference the US Treasury website:</p><p>&quot;Is it illegal to damage or deface coins?</p><p>Section 331 of Title 18 of the United States code provides criminal penalties for anyone who &ldquo;fraudulently alters, defaces, mutilates impairs, diminishes, falsifies, scales, or lightens any of the coins coined at the Mints of the United States.&rdquo; This statute means that you may be violating the law if you change the appearance of the coin and fraudulently represent it to be other than the altered coin that it is. <strong>As a matter of policy, the U.S. Mint does not promote coloring, plating or altering U.S. coinage: however, there are no sanctions against such activity absent fraudulent intent.</strong>&quot; (<a href="http://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/faqs/Coins/Pages/edu_faq_coins_portraits.aspx" rel="nofollow">http://www.treasury.gov/resource-center/faqs/Coins...</a>)</p><p>Here we see fraudulent intent mentioned again. These are the articles I was shown when I was looking into coin jewelry. As the author stated, &quot;As long as you sell it as a novelty item and not as currency you are fine.&quot;</p><p>I hope that none of this comes off the wrong way. I just don't want anyone to be discouraged from starting a perfectly legal hobby/craft.</p>
<p>You could use coins from another country. </p>
<p>I make one of these and everyone that saw it was like &quot;holy cow thats the coolest thing ever&quot;</p>
<p>Just a thought, what would be the approx sizes one gets from various US currency? Eurofellow here, I have a coin with Lincoln in it, doubt it would fit any of my fingers. :) Some of my Finnish markka's however....</p>
Great idea, I might try this with a handful of pounds and cent euros I have laying around :) Some of your other work is very nice as well. Keep at it!
<p>You might change &quot;whole&quot; to &quot;hole&quot; in the appropriate places ;)</p><p>Also, don't worry about the legality everyone is tripping over. There are thousands of penny machines and companies that change coins and sell them. If it was illegal, it would've been stopped a long time ago. Cool project!</p>
I meant to say start not star.
It depends on the size of you mandrel. Mine starts at 1/4 inch so I use 1/3 inch punch so it's fits where it isn't on the edge. But be warned the bigger the star hole the bigger the ring. Also I hope you can make one of these and if you do I hope she loves it.
<p>what size hole do you drill or punch? I love your project. my wife is Jewish so I don't know how she'll feel about me altering money but her ability to wear the money might make it worth it! </p>

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