Double the Range of Your TV-B-Gone

With a handful of parts, a solder iron, and about an hour, you can double the range of your TV-B-Gone (R) universal remote control.

TV-B-Gone remotes work great to turn off TVs anywhere you go. But they work even better when they have more power.

We will be adding one more IR emitter to a TV-B-Gone remote, and powering the resultant two IR emitters with larger batteries than the small coin cell battery in the stock TV-B-Gone.

(There is also a more complex yet Ultra High Powered TV-B-Gone Instructable.)

This Instructable grew out of workshop that I did at 23C3, the hackers conference in Berlin in December, 2007. FoeBud, a German organization that educates the public about privacy issues with technology, let me use their workshop bench to teach people how to solder, using this project as an example.

Thanks to Rena Tangens, of FoeBud, who took all the photos.

Step 1 Materials and Tools

Parts:
A -- TV-B-Gone (1)
B -- 940nm IR emitter (1)
C -- Battery Holders that holds two batteries (2)
D -- Batteries (4)
E -- Solder

Tools:
F -- Solder iron
G -- Small Phillips screwdriver
H -- Needle nose pliers
I -- Diagonal cutters

Not shown:
-- Wire, several inches of two different colors
-- Wire stripper
-- Solder Wick (or a Solder Sucker)


This photo has Notes -- roll the mouse over the parts with squares to see these important notes.

Comments

[Matrix-technician]

Wow, great idea sami. It would be cool to have one of these dressed up like a flash drive powered by the usb port. People would think you were fidgeting with your port on the computer. :)

[ajroudsami]

Nice tutorial but I'm wondering if it's possible to replace your AA batterie with a 5V USB port .I mean that I want to power up the TV B Gone with my laptop.?

[mitch]

You can power with USB from your laptop, but depending on your laptop's USB port, your computer may limit the current it sends out its USB port, so it may be less powerful than using two AA batteries.

Try it and see.

Mitch.

[mxlabs]

that`s funny. i listend to an older ccc podcast (24C3 2214 - Make cool things with Microcontrollers - Hacking with Microcontrollers) a few minutes ago and stumbled upon this tutorial.

thank you for putting this useful tutorial guide on.

[mitch]

Sure! Happy hacking! And, please turn off lots of TVs!

Cheers,
Mitch.

[Tesla Joe]

A word to the wise: The TV-B-Gone does not just work on TVs but almost any device that uses IR communications. I discovered this by accident when I decided to try mine on a TV in the room and accidentally caused the my roommate's iHome stereo to play music loudly. I regret not trying this for April Fool's Day.

[mitch]

Thanks for pointing this out. 

A more accurate description: 
TV-B-Gone remote controls have only TV POWER codes in its database.  There are actually very few devices that will respond to these codes besides TVs (in the over 5 years of using and selling TV-B-Gone remotes I've only heard of a handful of cases where a TV-B-Gone has had any effect on devices other than TVs (most of them are for one company -- I can't remember which -- that uses the same POWER code to control their DVD players and their TVs).

Mitch.

[dark sponge]

My TV-B-Gone turns on the LED lamp in my room, which uses an infrared remote. http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/lights/831e/

[mitch]

Cool. That lamp probably uses a pretty simple IR encoding scheme, and so might have a few false triggers. I'm curious -- does it also respond to other TV remote controls? Does the TV-B-Gone make your lamp go through lots of nice colors? Mitch.

[dark sponge]

Actually, no. It always turns on right after the fifth code, and none of the other ones do anything to it. No TV remotes in my house affect it. I'm guessing they didn't make sure the on/off signal they used wasn't the same as a TV's. It would be really annoying if you had it in the same room as the TV with the code that triggers it...

[mitch]

The 5th code is for Philips TVs. So, for whatever reason, they used a Philips on/off toggle code.

[dark sponge]

That's odd.

[Tesla Joe]

I stand corrected! I guess the TV-B-Gone doesn't mess with the majority of IR communication systems. However, I still regret not using it for April Fool's Day.

[hotrod1111]

Recycling Generator

[447za]

Im using 6 IR Leds  and I soldered led like this +- +- +- +- +- +-
positive to negative and so on...
I did same as u did but doesnt work, Only I know its ON because little red LED is blinging
Help me ASAP plz

[mitch]

I made a comment after yours on the Batteries page, but I'll comment here, too:  to use 6 IR LEDs you need more voltage -- 3v per LED.  So, for 6 LEDs you need 12 AA batteries in series for B1.  (But be sure to keep B2 at 3v, since B2 is for the microcontroller.)

Mitch.

[Kamokaki]

It works. Nice job. I made one 5 min ago. The IR sems to be stronger or something now!

[mitch]

Yes, the IR is twice as powerful with two IR emitters and the bigger batteries.  Please turn off lots of TVs with your new power!  :)

Mitch.

[447za]

Hi, I made exactly what did u showed us.
It dont work ??
What I did wrong I putted 6 IR Leds but when I measured there doesnt come any Voltage to the leds ??

[mitch]

It won't work with 6 IR LEDs unless you use a more batteries.  Each LED needs 3v to function, so if you want 6 LEDs, you will need to put them in series with each other, and then use 12 AA batteries in series with each other (for B1).  But make sure that you keep the B2 battery the same, since this powers the microcontroller, which can only function with voltage between 3v and 5v.

Mitch.

[Kamokaki]

How meny nm is the IR-LED in a TV B-GONE. Can you change the IR-LED without any other stuff that you have too change.-

[mitch]

TV remote controls all use 940nm.  If you use any other wavelength, it will probably work, but with greatly reduced range.  The IR emitter I use for TV-B-Gone is made by Everlight, part number:  IR333/H0/L10.  You can get it at Mouser.com -- here is the part number for Mouser:  638-IR333/H0/L10.  This is the most powerful IR emitter that is available, and it is also really cheap:  $0.29 each for 1 piece, in the US (and probably comparable elsewhere).

If you use another IR emitter, it will work, but the range will be less.

Cheers,
Mitch.

[Highjump44]

can u put 850nm vs the 940nm LED currently in the device

[Noodle god]

1.Watch 2.Do 3.??? 4.Profit!

[soyo4]

Can you put a link with the schematic diagram larger, please. With the image I can't read nothing. (Sorry for my english, but I'm learning it) PD Very good this instructable, very nice

[mitch]

I just uploaded a higher-resolution schematic. I have also put it on my Flickr account:
http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1980643045&size=l

Sorry it took so long to update it.

[mitch]

Sorry for the fuzzy schematic. I can't seem to find my source files for these. I'll have to create them again. Please give me a few days. In the meantime, here's a description of the relevant parts of the schematic: The IR signal from the microcontroller comes from pin 12. That goes through a 120 ohm base resistor into the base of a 2N3904 transistor. The transistor's emitter is tied to ground. The collector goes to the cathode of the stock IR emitter (which is an Everlight IR333-A), and the anode of this emitter goes to the cathode of the added IR emitter (same as the stock emitter, available at Mouser.com, part number 638-IR333-A). The anode of this added IR emitter goes to +6v (which comes from four AA batteries). Be sure to remove the battery (or batteries) that are in battery holder B1 of the TV-B-Gone, and do not use these together with the four AA batteries.

[jimmyw]

You should consider making a deluxe model available for sale that has more IR LEDs and more power because the TV be gone and the ninja remote (I have bought both) are somewhat weak. I would not mind spending $20 on a deluxe model.

[mitch]

Well, you're in luck. Together with Ladyada, we just came out with a TV-B-Gone Kit! And it costs $20. You need to create your own case, however. But it turns off TVs under ideal circumstances at 30 yards. :) I'm also working on a TV-B-Gone Pro that I hope will be available for presale before xmas.

You can check the TVBGone.com website, or sign up for our email list on the website to be informed of when both these will be for sale.

I'll have a bunch of the TV-B-Gone Kits at the Austin Maker Faire (20-October and 21-October -- if you happen to be there), and have them up on my website shortly afterwards. Ladyada's site may have some even sooner

The regular TV-B-Gone remote has OK range -- about 20 or 30 feet, depending on the TV and the angle of the TV from you. (The Ninja is somewhat weaker.)

[killerjackalope]

Hmmm now if only there was a way to focus these beams into a longer range system so either an IR based laser pointer (no idea if that would work at all) or possibly a couple of lenses or something similar to give superlong range and accuracy

[mitch]

I've also been thinking of using an IR laser to get super-long range. What troubles me is making it safe -- a highly focused laser beam that momentarily reflects off of a shiny surface might permanently damage someone's eyesight. If the beam were difussed a little, however, then it could be safe. Now, how to safely guarantee a difused beam, and how to modulate the laser at the proper frequencies? Also, I'm not sure if there are 940nm IR lasers, which is the IR wavelength of TV remote controls. Laser's aren't really my forte. If anyone knows about this stuff, please let me know.

[maxhaxs]

You can get a 940nm IR laser for 60 USD from digikey.

[killerjackalope]

if you found the laser a piece of slightly brushed glass would diffuse it nicely but i see the dangers involved

[wi-fi astronomer]

Also, a laser will be VERY directional. You'd need to diverge the beam so it has spread. It'll be easier to aim and still have great range. A better alternative is to amply the electrical signal with a fast Darlington and an LED array, like those IR security lights. Or, that "ultra-TV-B-Gone project. I devised something even more wicked: a Cable-B-Gone hat. Cable boxes from one monopoly cable operator are "keyed alike" - they all use the same remote. Hack the code for your town's cable boxes, and have fun! I need to post my remote control hat as an instructable.

[mitch]

Please do post your remote control hat as an instructable! And please post it as a comment here. I'm working on a Super-High-Power TV-B-Gone now. It goes well over 50 meters! I use 6 IR emitters, each with their own transistor driver (PN2222A with a 120 ohm base resistor and no current limiting resistor in series with the emitter and collector, with the emitter tied directly to ground -- this is the same circuit as the emitter and driver for the regular TV-B-Gone), and four AA batteries to power the emitters. I have successfully turned off huge-screen TVs facing out of very thick plate-glass windows, from across a very wide street! Very satisfying. I'll post an instructable about this soon. I'll also have them available ready-made from TVBGone.com later this year.

[maxhaxs]

should i get a Tv b gone or a ninja remote

[mitch]

That's up to you. Of course, I know which one I like -- TV-B-Gone, the way cooler one that works way better, and that isn't in it only for the money. :)

[maxhaxs]

thank u made my mind

[oshidutako]

thats pretty cool. now if i can just find a tv-b-gone. i'll probably use 3-4 leds all pointed at the same spot though instead of two and a 9-volt battery instead of the 4 AA.

[mitch]

TV-B-Gones are available from many places on the web, including
http://www.TVBGone.com

Depending on how you do it, using more than 2 LEDs may require some additional circuitry. To keep things simple, you can use 3 IR emitters in series, and use a 9-volt battery to power the emitters. The rule of thumb here is to have 3-volts for each IR emitter. If you want more power, then please check out the Ultra High Power TV-B-Gone Instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/ELSIDWXRAFEP2881ZQ/