Draft & Sew a Custom Fit Reversible Coat

Step 2 Measuring

Using your flexible tape measure, all measurements should be taken loosely over clothing to ensure proper over-garment ease (I didn't and my coat is quite fit -- it will be limited to being worn over snug t-shirts... good thing fleece has a little stretch); have [notepad and pencil] at hand to write identification letters (A-L) with corresponding measurements.

A: Collar Circumference
Determine the desired height of collar and measure circumference of head/neck at this point, leaving a little slack for comfort.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

I wanted optimal neck coverage because I recently freed myself of hair, therefore my collar will be very high, which should add a bit of flair when unbuttoned.

B: Collar Height
Measure distance from the top of the will-be collar height, straight down to your trapezius.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

C: Shoulder Breadth
Measure distance from the bottom point of collar height (at trapezius), measure out to the edge of your shoulder.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

D: Yoke Length
Measure distance from the bottom point of collar height (at trapezius) to about 2" below the top of the armpit crease (or whatever distance is most comfortable for your sleeve to sit -- having a bunch of fabric jammed up in your pit is never nice :p).  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

E: Arm Circumference
Measure distance around arm (at bottom of yoke length -- should be the thickest part of arm).  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

F: Sleeve Length
Measure from bottom of yoke length down arm to desired sleeve length (for 3/4 sleeves, measure to midpoint of forearm; otherwise, to wrist, fingertips, and beyond!).  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

I wanted a good overlap of my mitten cuffs, so I measured to my knuckles.

G: Cuff Circumference
Determine desired cuff circumference at base of F (where cuff ends).  For straight sleeves, use measurement E; for tapered sleeves, measure circumference at the base of F and add an inch for ease.

To avoid cuff conflict between coat and [mittens], I opted for a slightly belled sleeve (4" wider than E).  A fancier option, which would also play nicely with [mitten] cuffs, would be a leg of mutton style cuff, measuring as if using 3/4 sleeves, belling at this point (~4" wider than E); measuring circumference of forearm at this point, distance to base of hand (just past the wrist bones), and circumference of wrist at base of hand.  For the ease of use of this -able, I will only be writing directions using straight, belled, or tapered sleeves.  Should you choose to go leg of mutton, do an image search and use your creativity to work it out :)

H: Yoke Breadth
Measure across body outside arm to outside arm at the base of D.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

I: Chest Circumference
Measure at largest point of chest.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

J: Body Length
From H/base of D, measure down to desired coat length.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.

K: Hemline Circumference
At the base of J, measure circumference of body (hips, in my case; but if any part of the body is larger than this point, measure circumference at that point for a flattering fit), round up to nearest inch, add 2" ease for a straight body (the ease will allow the coat to fall back into place when going from sitting to standing).  Note this number.

Continuing with the belled theme from the sleeves, I used a slight a-line shape for the body, adding 6" of ease instead of 2".

L (not pictured): Body Depth
Place a ruler or semi-rigid tape measure under dominant arm where E was measured; using the arm to hold the [ruler] between arm and body, measure depth of body from front of arm to back.  Round up to nearest inch; note this number.