They're meant to help water flow down hillsides without eroding the land. The good news is that in order to keep water flowing well, these pipes have flowing, organic lines, rather than hard turns and such. To me, they've always looked like a roller coaster ride.
So we decided to turn the drainage pipes into a ride, a sport if you will: DRAINAGE LUGE.
Outfit a large skateboard/buttboard/street luge like board, get to the top of the hill, and time yourself from point A to point B. Pretty simple. The one who gets down the fastest wins. To top it all off, these things are fast and fun!
Step 1: Get the Parts
Top Width: 33 inches
Height: 20 inches deep
I quickly figured out that normal trucks, even street luge trucks, just wouldn't be large enough. The largest skateboard trucks I could find were 15 inches wide: nowhere near the 30 inches width that I was shooting for.
We ended up going to a store and picking up two crummy skateboards for $8 a piece and taking them apart. The boards and bolts we ditched (got other projects in mind for those), but kept the trucks.
- Four skateboard trucks with bearings and wheels
- 16 - 2 inch 10/24 bolts, washers and lock nuts
- 3/4 inch plywood, 28 inches wide x 36 to 48 inches long (depending on how long you want the board)
- Wood glue
- Four C clamps (Size? as long as they open up enough for 2 inches)
- 3/4 inch plywood strips, 28 inches wide, 4 inches long
- Sandpaper or electric sander
- Drill (bits: 10/24 and1/2 inch)
- Two pieces of rope, roughly 8 inches each, thickness of 1/2 inch.
- Boots or sturdy shoes (for stopping)
Step 2: Affix the Reinforcements
I recommend keeping the trucks towards each end of the board, but not at the very end. We've left roughly 4 inches on each end.
Step 3: Prepping the Board
Use sandpaper or an electric sander to take off the sharp edges all around the board, and to overall give the board a softer feel.
Step 4: Install the Trucks
Once you are certain of your measurements and truck placements, it is time to do the marking of the drill locations. Use a pencil to mark in each truck hole, and remove the truck. Do this for each truck.
Use your drill to slowly drill through each whole. When finished with each truck, insert each bolt (from the bottom (or top of the board) so that the nuts are placed on the truck-side of the board. Once each bolt is on, ensure that the truck fits properly. Now move to the next truck and repeat.
Once all trucks holes are drilled, add truck, bolts, washers and lock nuts and tighten.
Step 5: Handholds
At roughly the middle of the board, we drilled 1/2 inch wholes, four inches apart on either side of the board, at roughly 2 inches from the edge. We then fed in the rope and knotted each end.
You have instant handles!
Step 6: Test Ride!
Portage the board to the site of the drainage pipe, and scout the terrain. This is a crucial step, as you don't want to shoot down the pipe only to find that it ends at a cement wall, steel pipe, or off a cliff! Scout the terrain and see any issues that you might run into. As I said earlier, these often fill up with debris during the summer months, so this is a very important step. Remove an obstacles you can, and note where you need to stop by.
Go to the top of the hillside, put on your boots, helmet and gloves, put the board in the pipe, mount and give yourself a few luge-like pushes. Before you know it, you will achieve incredible speeds.
To stop, use your feet to stop Fred Flintstone style on the dirt.
Good luck, and practice safe drainage luge!
Step 7: Other Designs?
Design #2: Imagine a board with a 'V' under the board with trucks riding along it, so eight wheels are always touching.
Design #3: Imagine a board with larger wheels that are spring loaded and steer automatically.
There are always interesting designs, which is why the drainage luge is a sport that has numerous possibilities.