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When you first by a R/C helicopter, it is fun, but you notice that it might be slow, the battery life may last a few minutes, and there might be that annoying spring that keeps the throttle down and won't let you hover. These few problems can be cured in a few steps, drastically improving the helicopter.
Notice that this helicopter may not be like yours. These mods are for the Syma S107G and they might be able to work on your helicopter. I am not responsible for any damages, voided warranties, etc. Please be careful when doing these mods. Make sure that you are very good at flying your helicopter the condition you received it in. These mods will make the helicopter harder to fly.
When you first by a R/C helicopter, it is fun, but you notice that it might be slow, the battery life may last a few minutes, and there might be that annoying spring that keeps the throttle down and won't let you hover. These few problems can be cured in a few steps, drastically improving the helicopter.
Notice that this helicopter may not be like yours. These mods are for the Syma S107G and they might be able to work on your helicopter. I am not responsible for any damages, voided warranties, etc. Please be careful when doing these mods. Make sure that you are very good at flying your helicopter the condition you received it in. These mods will make the helicopter harder to fly.
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The thin plastic pieces weigh about as much as the lint/dust/dirt/fibers that accumulate on the chassis and rotors. The "bulk" is in the 2 THIN metal rods connecting to the tail (and is it not really "bulk" at all). And by removing them, the center of gravity is actually moved towards the main rotor shaft, so it's better than originally.
As for the wind....this thing is already sooo light that pretty much any wind at all will take it off course (I'm talking about a ceiling fan on LOW). The plastic parts that were removed had almost no effect on the wind-resistant mass of the model (too light). In fact, what removing the plastic panels did was reduce the surface area of the aircraft, therefore reducing wind-related control issues.
I also can't tell if you fly real aircraft, or just models, but I'm sure that flying a larger "model" is easier due to the lag-enhancing mass of the model. However, flying the real thing (I've never flown a helicopter, only fixed-wing), the SMALLER the EASIER! It's like comparing a Go-Kart to a Semi-Truck....It's easier to keep a Go-Kart in one lane than a Semi-Truck (regardless of the wind...there's more room for error).
Your weight-shifting recommendations won't help with stability....It only hurts the aerodynamic efficiency of the aircraft.
I'm sorry, but your attempt at making this person's plan look bad is kind of, well, a bad attempt. Good "Instructable" dude!!!!!
These little guys are already made with the minimal parts needed. The little rails on the tail relieve the stress on the tail boom attach point. Taking them off will make it more likely to shear the boom off in a crash that otherwise would be uneventful.
As to center of gravity, yep, you will screw up the balance by changing the weight configuration. But sometimes you can counteract that by setting the trim on the transmitter to compensate if the change in center isn't too much. It doesn't take much of a change though to throw these off kilter.
If you want to lift a cam, Syma, among others, makes some pretty inexpensive 3 channel helis you can find on sale for not much more than these little guys cost. They're big enough to lift the teensy DVR cams around. You won't get much quality, but they're fun to mess with.
There is no "trim" on the control to counterbalance a nose-tail unbalance, only a left/right turn trim is available. But like I said in my other post, the chassis is already off-balance enough that when the parts removed in this "instructable" are disassembled, the model is actually MORE balanced than Out-of-the-Box.
You are def. right about getting one of the larger models for lifting "things", haha. Not to mention, the larger models would have a better "stabilization" no matter what you do to these smaller models....But these small ones are mighty fun, haha!!!
Instead of gluing the led to get speed, I read that it's possible to move the battery back and forward to improve the hovering. Tacking it forward, also get a higher speed without the extra weight of the led.
I say just leave it the way it is and why not just have fun~ it flies anyway too, right? :P
Without the knot when you pull on the cable you pull directly on solder points.
If you have no soldering skills this will not be a pleasant experience.
- Building King
Always when modding stuff is good to think in the future, any mod that is intended to be permanent must be thought trough in terms of reliability.
Also, in you case, after undoing the knot, if available, a small drop of hot glue would make it safer to use and you could benefit froom the ease of mind.
Today I looked at a ~100 USD, 4ch, helicopter in a hobby shop that I trust and it;s the next thing I'm buying :))
second, i have this specific heli and it works very well stock. this is no heli that needs to modded, and really, if it doesnt come with aftermarket upgrades, it means that it shouldnt be modded. the only thing here that is of any use to people is removing the spring from the throttle, which i did months ago because it makes it harder to fly.
one more point, if you mod something, try to make it possible to un-mod it. like the spring on the throttle, it can be put back. cutting the wires on the led is stupid. unsolder them or something so you can add it back later.
-Building King
The main rotor blades seem to be much more durable, though still not indestructible.
also if you have a plastic card you can replace the metal framework with plastic copies, that reduces it further, and replace the tail boom support struts with CF rod of the same thickness.