Dremel Repair





Introduction: Dremel Repair

About: Bit of a background in various electrical and mechanical fields, obscure sense of humour and typically willing to help...

So my Dremel 395 died mid project!

No power no strange noises! it was just mocking me and acting like it was like it was unplugged!

I figured that since it didn't smell of burning metal I should be able to get it going again.

Step 1: Assess the Mess!

I did notice that it was running hot for the past little while.

First unplug the tool.

Check to see if the shaft spins freely, if not you may have a bearing problem. You can sometimes free up a bad bearing with light oil but noisy bearings mean mechanical damage and it should be replaced as soon as possible. If the bearings are bad then the whole armature will need to be replaced. this is available online for around $17.

If it does then next check the brushes. These are under small blue screw caps on my tool. They should remove easily and have lots of carbon "brick" left.

On my tool one came out easily while the other separated from the spring and remained in the brush holder.

So it looks like I have a stuck brush which has worn down and no longer makes contact with the commutator (more later)! This explains the no power situation!

Step 2: Disassembly

Remove the hanging clip

Remove the body screws, mine were torx 15

Gently separate the body halves making sure that no small parts fall out, like the shaft lock assembly at the nose of the tool.

Remove the motor assembly from the body making sure to note which side is up with respect to your dis-assembly order.

Remove the rubber spacer at the rear of the motor shaft

Gently pull the brush block assembly rearward to remove it.

Step 3: Repairs

Use a rounded tool like a screwdriver shaft and gently push the stuck brush out of the brush block.

Check for damage, in this case there was none and I was able to re-use the brushes and brush block. Gently dress any warped or melted plastic with a needle file or sand paper.

Reattach the spring to the brush using mild force.

Test for proper fit by inserting the brush to make sure that it doesn't bind.

I suspect that the heat was caused by a dirty and worn commutator ( where the brushes contact the rotor), which in turn caused the brush to melt into the carrier.

Using a very fine sand paper ( 800 grit) clean and dress the commutator until it is shiny and smooth. Clean the black lines between the segments of the commutator using a brass brush to remove any chance of shorting.

Step 4: Reassembly Notes

The brushes go in last! Severely worn brushes should be replaced!

The brush holder connects to the motor assembly via friction fit contacts. Gently press them into place.

Reattach the rubber spacer to the rear bearing and place the motor into the housing.

Place the other half of the housing in place and test that to motor freely spins, if it grinds, open the case and flip the magnet assembly of the motor over and re-install, it should be smooth now.

Screw the case shut.

Look for a dark line on one edge of the brushes, if there is one, then this installs in the direction of the arrow. Dark line in the direction of travel. Install the brush caps.

Plug in the tool and test. If it doesn't spin at this point then you most likely have a burned out switch, unfortunately that will need to be replaced. The switch is available online for around $16.

Mine now works better than it has in a very long time!

Now back to the original project...



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    33 Discussions

    My Dremel 3000 just gave up like that today when I was trying it out for carving with a flexi shaft; I have only used it for cutting some laminated flooring before. I will try what you suggest. I did take one brush out and it came out freely; but as I didn't really know what I was doing I put it straight back in and didn't take the other one out. I will try that tomorrow. I tried taking the casing apart by taking the screws out. I thought the hanger was still holding it together but wasn't shore so I put the screws back in in case I made things worse.

    My low doesn't work but my high does. What does this mean? Model 200

    My dremel died as I was cutting PVC at first it was shuddering and shut off the on real quick a few times and when it hit it started working again that lasted 5 minutes,then completely died hoping to get it fixed so I can continue with my project.

    Hi there, My dremel 3000 stopped working. I've switched, worked for a few seconds and stopped. Checked the fuse, the brushes, are fine. Opened and checked for current continuity, I have current going though, from the circuit board to the variable switch and also I get current from the two of the four probes going through to the element. What do you thing the problem might be? How do I check the element if it works and how do I troubleshoot any further problem areas. I hope I am making my self clear, though my knowledge of electrical and electronics is very basic.

    4 replies

    hey there, sorry for my bad english. your dremel is not dead. you can fix it so easy.

    1 extract brushes (Carbons)

    2 remove stickers from 2 side of the dremel (Dremel 3000 and the other side)

    3 remove all 4 screws with T15 screw driver

    4 disapart all parts (Motor, Speed Control Unit and little PCB that started with Main wires.

    5 look at the motor body from top. you will see a thin wire is free from its place.

    6 solder that wire too correct place and here you go. your dremel is fine.

    assemble it just like you dis assembled it. DONE.

    you are my hero thank you so much!

    You're welcome Alpha_ol

    I'm glad I could help

    it was my problem too in 3 month ago. i just bought a new dremel 3000 and a set of wood cutter bit. i turn on my dremel with 30000rpm but wood cutting bits made for 20000rpm and i feel a hard vibrate in my hand and after 3 sec my dremel just died! i was so sad because i love my dremel! after i take it apart i just saw the wire which get cut of from its place.

    i hope your dremel work for you at least 10 years :))

    I know its been two months. But sometimes when taking your dremel apart. You may mis-align the plastic piece in witch the motor itself seats into. You will (atleast on the 3000 model) see 4 small prongs make sure those are in the correct position. I dont know all the technical terms. But if your wires arent the problem the prongs not meeting the electrical source is probably the culprit. Mine was also touchy when i came to the graphite brushes

    Hey, i just bought the dremel 200 series two weeks ago at bunnings and when i set it on low mode it just spins really sloow. The manual says that on slow mode it spins 15.000 rpm but it doesn't seems to happen. it just spins like 30 rpm. Can anyone tell me what happened and how to fix it?

    do you have any "tricks" regarding the wiring? I took mine apart to clean, but for the life of me cannot get it to turn back on. I believe the culprit to be the connecting wires (white and black), but despite numerous configurations I cannot get the damn thing to turn on. advice maybe?

    2 replies

    I know its been two months. But sometimes when taking your dremel apart. You may mis-align the plastic piece in witch the motor itself seats into. You will (atleast on the 3000 model) see 4 small prongs make sure those are in the correct position. I dont know all the technical terms. But if your wires arent the problem the prongs not meeting the electrical source is probably the culprit. Mine was also touchy when i came to the graphite brushes

    You will need to use a multimeter to check this. with the tool unplugged, use resistance to continuity to test if you have a direct path between the plug end and the brass pad that the brush sits in. You should have a path on each side one white and one black. If not check the switch is in the fully on position. if moving the switch does not work then most likely the switch or cord is bad.

    I hope that this helps and sorry for the late reply.

    Sorry for the extreme late reply. You can check the rotating part but will need a multimeter to do so. The copper pads where the brushes contact the rotor should have a direct path to one another on opposite sides. use a meter with resistance (ohms) or continuity test to see this. it should be really low or effectively zero depending on the quality of your multimeter.

    I hope that this helps and sorry for the extremely late reply.

    Continuation: As I said, I get current going through from the variable switch to the outer core of the motor, but it doesn't work. How do I check if it is the outer core of the motor, or the inner core of the rotating part of the motor that its faulty?

    Thanks for any replay gents


    Nice Instructable!
    I have to clean mine a lot because I use it to carve wood and it gets a lot of dust in it.

    1 reply

    Sounds like fun. Have you tried putting an old sock over it or using the flex shaft.

    Thank you so much for this 'Ible! I have a battery operated Dremel that also died mid project, and because of this project, I now think I know what the problem is!

    This is me repairing my Dremel.


    Where is the off on button on a Dremel 200?