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This jig is ideal for when you'd like to cut a series of holes that are parallel to one another. The Wingnuts and slots will allow the top piece (or 'guard') to be moved back and forth with ease.

Cutting List (mm)
Base: 18 (TH) x 201 (W) x 321 (L)
Supporting Batons: 30 (W) x 201 (L)
Top piece: 18 (TH) x 68 (W) x 381 (L)
Sides: 30 (TH) x 30 (W) x 68 (L)

Tools & Parts
Basic Woodworking tools:
Pencil, Try Square, Saw (Cross and Rip), Sandpaper, Centre punch
6mm drill blade
22mm Washer x 2 (M6)
50mm Coach Bolt x 2 (M6)
Wing Nut x 2 (M6)
60mm Countersunk Machine Screws (M6) x 4

Step 1: The Base

Round these dimensions to the nearest whole number, and be sure to countersink the holes.

Step 2: Supporting Batons

These will be custom made to fit the drill press you currently have, lifting the jig to the appropriate height.

Step 3: Top Piece/Guard

The coach bolts have to be perfectly aligned with the slots, so when marking, use the Base for reference.

Step 4: Cut & Sand' the Side Pieces

These little blocks will stabilize the Top piece somewhat, keeping it horizontal in use.

Securing it to the 'Top piece'
Standard wood screws are all very good and well, but they can come loose over time. I'd recommend using Countersunk machine screws or any type of bolt you like; as long as it has a shank length of at least 60mm.

Step 5: Complete

A little greasin' can improve its performance, and if you want, a handle could be fitted to the Top piece too.

<p>This is awesome! How did you mount the drill to the base? </p>
<p>Thank you! Ah yeah, I use this jig in coordination with onea theese: </p><p><a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LguXPpfXL.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LguXPpfXL....</a></p><p>You can buy 'drill press stands' for around &pound;10+ over here, but I wanted to beef it up a bit :L </p>

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Bio: My main interest is traditional jig design- making apparatus that'll benefit a process and give me the effect I'm looking for. I have ... More »
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