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This is slightly different from Drill Press (1) because it's more for smaller pieces of stock. This will make panel drilling a little tricky though, so I've uploaded it as a different instructable.

Ironically I used a Vice screw from a Silverline Drill press for this. A little daft I know, but a lot cheaper than custom made vice screws. Failing that, you could dismantle an old G clamp if you have the metalwork tools and ability to do so.

Cutting List (mm)
Base: 18 (TH) x 201 (W) x 321 (L)
Supporting Batons: 30 (W) x 201 (L)
Top piece: 18 (TH) x 68 (W) x 381 (L)
Sides: 30 (TH) x 30 (W) x 68 (L)
Front Support: 30 (TH) x 30 (W) x 221 (L)
Jaw: 30 (TH) x 30 (W) x 321 (L)

Tools & Parts
Basic Woodworking tools:
Pencil, Try Square, Saw (Cross and Rip), Sandpaper, Centre punch, drill blade set etc.
Uber Basic Metalwork tools (Optional): Hacksaw, Rasp set, WD40
22mm Washer x 2 (M6)
50mm Coach Bolt x 2 (M6)
Wing Nut x 2 (M6)
60mm Countersunk Machine Screws (M6) x 6
Vice Screw: With a shank length of at least 100mm
An Escutcheon (30-40mm diameter)
A Pull Handle (Optional)

Step 1: The Base

Round these dimensions to the nearest whole number, and be sure to countersink the holes.

Step 2: Supporting Batons

These will be custom made to fit the drill press you currently have, lifting the jig to the appropriate height.

Step 3: Top Piece/Guard

The coach bolts have to be perfectly aligned with the slots, so when marking, use the Base for reference.

Step 4: Cut & Sand' the Side Pieces

These little blocks will stabilize the Top piece somewhat, keeping it horizontal in use.

Securing it to the 'Top piece'
Standard wood screws are all very good and well, but they can come loose over time. I'd recommend using Countersunk machine screws or any type of bolt you like; as long as it has a shank length of at least 60mm.

Step 5: Front Support

It's important to pick a good solid hardwood for this piece; because the vice screw will be moving back and forth and gradually wearing down the 13mm hole. This can be easily rectified though, if you replace this feature from time to time.

To secure it
Countersunk machine screws

Step 6: Jaw

I've used a 30mm thick baton for this, so it can house the escutcheon.

Step 7: Escutcheon

A little detail on the Escutcheon here, which has the vital role of securing the vice screw during operation.
Here's the process I used:
1) Place the escutcheon in its designated spot.
2) Using a centre punch, carefully mark the escutcheon's screw holes. For accuracy, I usually mark one hole, drive a screw into that hole (to keep the fitting steady), then mark and insert a screw into the other.
3) Take the screws out, now that you know where they'll go.
4) Insert the vice screw into the jig. Yup, through the 'Front Support', through the large opening in the escutcheon, and into its home.
5) Reinsert the screws

Escutcheon too big?
This is where the basic metalwork tools come in (Rasps, hacksaw etc), for cutting it down to a workable size.

Step 8: Complete

<p>Hi, I've added your project to the <em style="">&quot;</em><em style="">Make Your Own Bench-Vise!</em><em style="">&quot;</em> Collection</p><p>This is the link If you are interested:</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Bench-Vise/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Benc...</a></p>
Some of the Vices on there are way ahead of mine. Tis great inspiration,thank you! :-)
<p>I have about 5 drill press vises. None are quite like this one though.</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: My main interest is traditional jig design- making apparatus that'll benefit a process and give me the effect I'm looking for. I have ... More »
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