Anyone who works with wood knows you have to make hundreds of holes for the screws and its almost impossible to make a series of holes perfectly straight and with the same depth by hand.

This instructable will help you to build a tool that will save you a lot of time and effort when drilling precise holes on wood, plastic, metal, or whatever material you're working with, it can also be very useful to carve sections of materials like wood thanks to its adjustable tool height.

You will need:

  • Wooden board (I used ~2 Cm thickness)
  • Wood slat (at least 2 meters, I used 25x35mm but any similar one will do the job)
  • 2x Small drawer guides
  • Around 30 long wood screws (and around 20 shorter ones)
  • Wood glue (optional)
  • High speed drill or similar tool to be attached.
  • M8 threaded rod M8 threaded tube M6 screws and nuts

Tools needed:

  • Ruler and pencil
  • Square and bevel
  • Wood saw and jewelers saw
  • Mitre
  • 80 grit sandpaper
  • Drill
  • Wood clamp (optional, but it makes the job a lot more easier)
  • Screwdriver

Step 1: The Base

Sorry about the lack of pictures, but by the time I decided this project to become and instructable I had already finished the base.

To made the base, cut four pieces out of the wooden slat, the dimensions are specified at the image, to avoid problems when assembling them I used a mitre and a clamp to keep the slat attached to it, this tool keeps the blade in a vertical position, avoiding irregular cuts, a minimal amount of sanding might be made afterwards.

When you've finished cutting the slat, make the definitive rectangle shape with it, play with the position of the slats to find the optimal configuration, once aligned, hold them together by applying pressure with the clamp to the short sides of the rectangle, now they're ready to be drilled. Mark the position of the screws, I've chosen to put them 1cm away from the edge. With some measurements, find the center of the slat and mark the position, once you have found it, drill the holes, which must be slightly narrower than the screw.

Once all the holes are drilled you can remove the clamp (or not if you prefer) and place the screws, I put some wood glue at each union to reinforce them.

TIP: If you remove the clamps when the holes have been already made, make some marking where two pieces come together (like circles, triangles, lines), if you disorder them, you can always put them together like a puzzle.

TIP: If your wood screws have an angled head you can use a special bit or a large metal bit (8mm for example) to make a countersink so the screws don't protrude.

To attach the cover, just draw the contour over some wooden board, cut it and attach it to the slat frame with more screws, I placed 2 at each side, leaving a gap between them of about 1/3 the length of that side. If you're like me, the chances are some of the slats or parts of the board will slightly protrude from the shape we're looking for, so grab that 80 grit sandpaper or an equivalent tool and start sanding until the edges are completely flat.

NOTE: It's not necessary to copy the dimensions to the millimeter, just get the general idea, and use the materials you find more convenient.

TIP: If you want your sanding to be more accurate put some sandpaper over a wood plank and use it to sand the wood, that will ensure your pieces will come out straight.

<p>Great ible.</p><p>The hole depth adjuster alone was worth the read.</p><p>Thanks for this :)</p>
<p>Thank you for your comment! </p>
<p>How good are the drawer slides at holding an accurate Up/Down motion?</p>
<p>They do a pretty good job, they don't have any slack, or displacement respect the horizontal plane, but it might depend on the slides you buy. </p>
<p>Did it. </p><p>Now i need to think about a handle to move the drill up and down, didnot figure out how to do that yet.</p>
Attach a gear to the drill board and a spiked strip on the back board for the gear to ride on and attach handle to gear
That's easy. You need additional screw and lever ( piece of wood or aluminum ). Just attach your new lever to the stand- vertical part half way of travel of the drill behind it. Than mark most upper and most lower position on the lever and cut the slot where screw holding the drill is. Once you have the slot ( size it a bit larger than diameter of the screw holding drill for smooth operation), unscrew screw holding the drill and reinstall thru the slot on the lever. You can add a spring from same screw to the top of vertical part of base to get automatic lift.
<p>I love it, I want to buy it can be collected again then. How much money do you sell it to me?</p>
<p>Will make looks nice I work on guitars would be handy for small detailed items. Might I add that you add a scale ruler and a pointer to dial in exact depths.</p>
Great ible. Simpler than most other designs.<br><br>I would add a couple of triangle wedges to the two sides of the carriage. They will help maintain perpendicularity. That becomes more of an issue when drilling small holes, e.g. PCB holes.
<p>Hi, I've added your project to the &quot;Top 5 DIY Dremel Drill Presses&quot;</p><p>This is the link If you are interested:</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Top-5-DIY-Dremel-Drill-Presses/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Top-5-DIY-Dremel-D...</a></p>
<p>Great, nice collection</p>
<p>Today I finally found a couple of hours to work on it! Here it is my result.</p><p>I was able to make it from a 2&euro; fir wood panel of 20cm x 100cm! I still have to add the lever and the drill support but it's almost finished.</p><p>THANKS FOR THE IBLE!</p>
<p>Neat, it looks great. </p>
<p>Today I finished it! Thanks again <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/Victor8o5/" rel="nofollow" style="">Victor8o5</a>!! </p><p>I really have to say that it is a very good structure since It's sturdier than the bought (plastic and metal) versions. I'm able to use it as a drill press (with the useful feature of the height stop block) and, if I have to carve something, I just need to unscrew the spring on the left and to carve the piece of wood setting the height of the bit with the stop block.</p><p>P.S. It works great with my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Dremel-Light/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Dremel-Light/ </a> as you can see down below.</p>
<p>Really nice, the LED ring illumination is a great idea, I had some problems when working with mine since the tool blocked the light, I might also add some LEDs. I'm glad you've found this instructable useful. </p>
<p>Well we have the same tool so you could follow my ible to make something similar! Furthermore I suggest you to buy the LEDs that I used since they are sooooo bright!!</p>
<p>Thanks for the idea but I will make it from metal as I think this would be more durable. I have quite a handy scrap pile so the cost will be negligible!</p>
<p>It sounds like a great idea.</p>
<p>I like this!... But I think if you want it to remain straight and square you should avoid the knots in your wood. Over time, with humidity and lack of it, the knots and the base wood will expand and contract at different rates. This is a case where it really pays to use a better quality raw material.</p><p>We can get good, clear ( of knots) poplar at a reasonable price at Home Depot or Lowe's here in the U.S., and oak or maple if you want to spend more.</p>
<p>Good to know, I didn't think about it since I don't have that much experience when working with wood, but I'll take it into account from now on. </p>
<p>Love your project! Why buy one if you can make one and even better when you share them too. Thanks for sharing. :)</p>
<p>Nice, but the official Dremel press drill adapter is less than $40 and is easier to use and probably more precise:<br>http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407875281&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dremel+press+drill</p>
<p>NOPE! The Dremel drillstand is a piece of junk! Don't buy or even recommend it.</p><p>It has a lot of play and flexibility (lacks needed rigidity). I know... I commited the mistake of buying one. It is made of flimsy plastic and has a lot of play. It is almost useless. This one made of wood can be way much better, depending on the care put into assembly and the quality of the sliding devices.</p><p>Since my Dremel made drillstand attachment was so bad, y decided to make an accesory to attach my Dremel 1395 tool to my Sears 9&quot; drillstand, in order to get more rigidity and precision. Amclaussen.</p>
<p>can you make the accessory an instructable? I'd like to do something like that.</p>
<p>I owned one of these - as amclaussen says, it is junk. The outside was metal, but the gears were actually made of plastic and cracked after a couple months of use. Dremel did not return phone calls nor emails. This DIY solution is far superior.</p>
<p>In my case I used wood I had laying around, the only things I bought were the guides and the m8 threaded rod, and they cost me around $5. If you buy a full board of wood and a full slat it will cost you like $15 more, but there would be plenty of wood that wouldn't be used. In terms of net materials I wouldn't say it costs more than $10 or $15.</p>
<p>Thanks, nice idea, good instructable :-)</p>
<p>What a bevy of problems you have solved with this ible and given me my next project. Nicely written. Thanks!</p>
<p>You mentioned the possibility of making an led for the drill. If it is a dremmel or comparable tool you can use this </p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-677-Dremelite-Rotary-Light/dp/B00008Z9ZS" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-677-Dremelite-Rotary-...</a></p><p>I have one on mine and it works great. I know there are instructables on here for making one but this one is self powered.</p>
<p>However that light is $50, which is crazy expensive. If you are determined to buy a light, this would be a better option I think:http://www.amazon.com/Stylish-useful-Bright-Flexible-Reading/dp/B00OZAY3JU/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1439750291&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=gooseneck+led </p>
<p>This seems a very useful jig, I will make one of this, thank you for the nice idea</p>
<p>think you could turn it on its side and make a mini lathe out of it?</p>
<p>Very cool! Nice job!</p>
Very good thank you
<p>Congratulations! Very nice design!</p>
<p>Very great thank you</p>
<p>Great invention!!! love it i will try it</p>
<p>i will like to make this soon so i can mount my ryobi rotary tool into it, and paint it in the ryobi colours maybe! :D</p><p>thanks for giving me an inspiring idea :)</p>
<p>Thanks to everybody for making this possible.</p>
<p>This is a great idea! Thank you</p>
<p>Very Useful, Thanks!</p>
<p>Very great.</p>
Great!<br>Perfect for us who don't have the money to buy a &quot;real&quot; one!
<p>Very nice and simple design!</p><p>I like your general tool holder <br>design, but you did gloss over the details of how you made the slots for <br> the nuts that hold your adjustable bolts. I would have liked more about that.</p><p>A spring and a handle would be good for my needs, but as you said, fairly easily added.</p><p>Thanks for posting!</p>
<p>Yes, I might have been quite imprecise at that part. I drilled a 7mm hole at the middle of each side, then pass the bolt trough and place a nut until it touches the wood and leave it with its flat sides heading left and right, perpendicular to the edge, where that nut touches the wood you do two marks, you remove the nut, you cut out a piece of wood with the same depth as the nut. The point is the nut won't be able to turn because it's flat sides are touching the wood, the wood kinda acts like a wrench, what allows you to turn the screw without needing to hold the nut in place.</p>
<p>Drawer guides - pure genius! And why I love Instructables.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm an electronic engineering student. I don't usually have much spare time but I like to work on random projects to keep myself ... More »
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