I like to use smd components in my circuits board because I don't have a computerized drill machine and do in it by hand for a big
boards are really tedious.
Soldering smd components in a copper board without dry solder mask, especially for those little capacitors and resistor of 402 in size, becomes a tough challenge and of course those micro controllers with almost zero space between pins.
So I decided to use the UV curable Ink, sounded very good on those ebay stores with before and after pictures.
I bought a couples of syringes with a success of just one time, 0.1% of my tires worked with a pretty ugly board with an uneven surface an the pads and vias where not square are rounded.
The Ink sometimes cured, other times it didn't. Applying the art work is somehow complicated because you have to put it over a wet paint unless you find this miracle tape that is sold in the shipping supplies that is glossy on one side and barely stick to the paint, but not always.
What is for sure is that you are going to get messy and the ink is nothing easy to take out of your hands.
I did a little more research in the web and I found this dry film solder mask, at least is dry meaning no mess and easy to handle.
I tried and worked wonderfully, no mess, easy, fast and your board looks almost comparable with the professional ones.
to buy the film you can go to my ebay page at this location:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dry-Film-Solder-Mask-5-sheets-of-12-x-8-5-in-/150921619738?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2323a1291a
You can check out these two videos from Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDIycwAghL4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNYIVZgbi9M&feature=related
For making the printed circuit board go to my new instructable here
http://www.instructables.com/id/Dry-Film-Photopolymer-for-making-circuit-boards/
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
Laminator: I use this GBC HeatSeal H220 Quickstart Pouch Laminator is kind of expensive, like $86 bucks, but I am pretty sure you can use the iron to do it, the same procedure that is used for the toner transfer method Just make sure to put something between the iron and the film, like a rag or a piece of paper and don't over burn it.
One thing that I found is that don't iron your copper clad over a cold surface even though your copper clad gets hot the toner and the dry film does not stick good.
One time I was ironing my art work over my kitchen counter top that is granite and it was kind of cold and the toner never transfered correctly to the copper clad. The first time that I tried the toner transfer method and worked successfully was when I was ironing over a piece of wood. The same applies to the dry film solder mask.
UV light source. What I use is a 36 Watts UV nail lamp, $28 bucks on ebay.
Sodium Carbonate: What is that? Soda ash or Washing soda. Go to your near big box store and buy for $7 bucks, in the pool section, the thing that says PH increaser (soda ash), don't buy sodium bicarbonate is Sodium Carbonate and is powder not liquid.
And finally you need a tray and a brush, (tooth brush is ok).








































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I included the final step in the manufacturer's instructions - heat for 60 minutes at 150C. I didn't notice any smell so I think it should be OK to do in the oven without poisoning anybody or making your wife angry.
-Harry
It was a CNC milled through hole board so a had little more "contour" on the surface than yours. I found that passing the mask through the laminator once cold and then once again on the lowest heat setting worked best. Too much heat and pressure caused the mask to be a bit thin over some tracks.
I also only used 2 bulbs in the UV nail lamp. I took out the side two to decrease the chance of light creeping under the transparency. It still seemed bright enough and worked well.
I remember also that after curing the mask for at least 30 minutes with the UV light they recommend to heat it in an oven but I don't have here right now with me the exact temperature and time. But what I remember is that the oven shouldn't be used again to cook food because the solder mask expells fumes.
Great job and I am glad that you liked the product!!!
I also offer the dry film photopolymer in case you need to go with thinner vias and more complicated circuits that are difficult to route with cnc machines. I have a instructable for this product as well here, just search for dry film photopolymer.
This may seem lame, can you etch a board using this stuff will it survive ferric chloride solution? and what is the resolution how small of a via could you make?
I got a teflon sheet for T shirt transfers to use with an Iron.
I remember how to make sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate, on a cookie sheet in the oven at 400 degrees F for 30 minutes.
Know I am showing here in the instructable how to use the dry film phtotopolymer that is designed for etching circuit boards. I think with this photopolymer you can go up to 40 micrometer of resolution and is very easy to use.
Search for dry film photopolymer for making circuit boards.
Hope you like it
What I am sure is that the toner doesn't stick to the film, I already tried and it didn't work.
VERY NICE FIND !!!
One Quick Question though...
Was the artwork matching vias and pads printed on what looks like transparency media ? Or Tracing Paper ? Or Something else ?!!!!?
very nice & clear photo's, im already hooked !!!
but would you do bulk discounts on this Dynamask ???
or to cpeniche777@hotmail.com.
I'm going to link this one on the end of mine.
I often use kaptop tap and a hobby blade to make masks for the tricky parts. I am going to try it with a laser sometime.
45 seconds under the UV light is perfect to get very good traces on the presensitize board with UV light. For fluorescent light is about 8 min to 15 min.
But to be honest your are not going to find always a good presensitize board. I bought one that never worked, not matter the timing, it never worked unlike the second board I bought it worked wonderfully. That's why I don't discard the toner transfer method.
If I get successful with the photosensitive dry film to make traces I'll post a instructable.
And very easy to do it