Introduction: Dry Stack Rock Finish for Support Poles

Picture of Dry Stack Rock Finish for Support Poles

BEFORE and AFTER

Step 1: Supplies and Tools

Picture of Supplies and Tools

GLOVES - ( I like using pigskin gloves to provide protection from the wire supplies and rough rocks, while providing dexterity )
MESH - (Fencing) ( I used a 14 gauge (G) galvanized fence mesh, which was 2" x 4 " and 5' tall. It is available in many roll lengths 25-100 feet )
METAL WIRE ....for securing courses of the above mesh around the poles ( I used 16.5 G rebar tie wire )
PLIERS with WIRE CUTTER built in or separate pair of wire cutters... used to twist and secure the above wire, securing the courses of mesh
ROCK - ( I used local rock from around my home. This rock is irregular and range from 2+" x 3" to ~8" but it only needs to be large enough so it does not pass through the mesh and not too large and heavy ....to manage placing between the pole and the mesh. This rock used is known as tertiary tuff, which is volcanic fragmented rock. Use what makes you smile. Also larger rocks could distort the mesh. Some distortion is expected and complement the rustic-look

Step 2: ASSEMBLY

Picture of ASSEMBLY

Note:
My poles were stained wood and in pretty good shape and had several coats of stain.... best to prep before starting.

1
CUT sections of the mesh so that it was long enough to wrap around the post, while leaving enough room between the mesh and post for the size rock I had. I used both the wires on the cut mesh itself and the twist wire to FORM AND SECURE cylindrical ring around the post. I chose the 5' tall mesh as I found it a nice size to manage adding the rocks. But different heights are available.
2
I secured the formed vertical mesh form every four inched on this 2" x 4" mesh
3
When securing the twist wire to the mesh....afterwards, be sure to push the sharp cut wire end into the rock.....so you do not have a sharp safety hazard.
FILL the formed mesh cylindrical form with your rock, being sure to add rock evenly, one side to the other and in somewhat of an even horizontal level,
for ease of management and creating a somewhat even distribution of the rock around the pole. It does not have to be perfect if you want this rustic look.
My poles were under 15' tall so I only needed three courses of this cylindrical form. So I cut the top form shorter, for my height.

TIP
See BEFORE and AFTER photos... plan your work. If you are going to add rainwater downspouts, tubing, low voltage wiring, etc.... incorporate within the dry stacked rock. I could have covered the downspouts shown.... but that would have added too much rock weight, within the mesh form and make the formed dry stack finish too wide.....at least " in my eyes". My AFTER photo includes a gutter downspout, for a small water capture tank, with tank overflow tube.

Step 3: ENJOY!?

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The BEFORE and AFTER photos were the front entrance poles, whereas this is a panoramic shot of the finished veranda poles. The panoramic distorts "reality" but capture the entire veranda.There are eight poles.
All photos of the assembled project are two years old. The galvanized wire will dull to a flat finish and eventually rust with the twist wire complementing the rustic look.
This last pictures shows a curved rammed earth seating area, which I had my landscaper install. The wall was formed around a few dry stacked poles

Comments

jase0001 (author)2017-08-23

I like the way it looks but you should cement them around the wood pillar and then remove the wire.

Swansong (author)2017-08-23

That looks beautiful, it matches the porch perfectly :)

lennowak (author)Swansong2017-08-23

Thank you. I started with the dry stack finishing of the poles first, then design the rammed earth and veranda concert floor staining and front porch paver later... it all came together in the end.

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