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This light-weight and easy to make kayak can be built in a few hours, weighs less than 20 pounds, and best of all, costs under $50.  While I wouldn't recommend taking it out in any rapids, it works great for calm water, so get out there and explore!

Materials:
  • Five 10' long, 3/4" Outer Diameter PVC pipes
  • Hacksaw
  • Scissors
  • Tape measure
  • Two or three large trash bags
  • 2x4 wood plank between 3' and 4' in length (or similar) for the seat
  • 3 rolls of Scotch Brand Tough Duct Tape (make sure it says waterproof on the label!)
  • Lighter (optional: used for easier PVC bending)
  • 3 square feet cardboard (optional : used to make paddle)

 
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Step 1: The First Cut

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Cut two of the PVC pipes down to 8' with the hack saw, making sure to save the 2' lengths.

Cut two 4" lengths of PVC from the same 2' pipe. Make a cut 2" deep into each of these pipes lengthwise, and bend the wings back until they create an angle approximately 60º with each other. These braces are essential to give the kayak its tapered shape. Note : hold lighter under the area of the pipe you wish to bend in order to soften the PVC first.
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shaneoh3 says: May 17, 2013. 7:38 PM
I also made one with a friend, except I used tarp instead of trash bags, and added outriggers.
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lukish says: Sep 2, 2012. 6:00 PM
This is pretty cool. I made a slightly modified version but it was way too unstable to use without capsizing until we added a tail thing. Is it just me or did anyone else encounter this problem? After we added the tail it is so fast and stable (for smallish people). Thanks for posting this!
SgtJellyfish says: Jun 2, 2012. 6:47 PM
this is cool! it looks the the mythbusters one as well
romulopericles says: Jun 2, 2012. 3:43 PM
Nice redneck soluction
lukev2 says: Apr 6, 2012. 5:34 AM
i think i will use bamboo......
Annunakiman says: Jan 5, 2012. 7:30 PM
this is awesome!
dharris12 says: Oct 16, 2011. 2:58 PM
this.takes.more.than.3 rolls.

danialmcghie says: Oct 2, 2011. 3:12 AM
hey for all that want to add steel or wood dont. wy not instead just coat the thing with high grade nylon or polyester its about 3.00 for a fat roll. stitch the edges with a very strong synthetic twine heat seal the sown edges and paint on water sealant that hardens and for the seat just attach a small slat of marine grade plywood to both top and bottom structures. it will look amazing as well
radamchick says: Aug 17, 2011. 6:20 AM
cool did it leak and was it stable
cattlelowing says: Jul 2, 2011. 3:09 PM
Locate the scrap yard in your town. EMT is 30 cents a pound.
SpaceRat says: Jun 26, 2011. 7:25 PM
You've given me a great idea. A frame made from lightweight electrical conduit welded together (be sure to use a breathing mask, as electrical conduit gives off noxious gases when welded) would make a strong , lightweight kayak frame. Then cover it with heat-shrinkable aircraft fabric and paint it with a waterproof epoxy paint, and you have a really tough, ultra-light kayak (or you could build a canoe or pirogue).
love4pds in reply to SpaceRatJun 27, 2011. 8:14 AM
How about Aluminum? A lot lighter and use thin hollow tubes that are strong. You can bolt it together, cuts easily even with just a hacksaw; it is very easy to work with. I made a cage for my rescue animals with it and turned out nice because it was light and mobile. Just used nuts and bolts to connect everything, no welding needed and no rust. Lasted 10 years till husband ruined the Plexiglas! Aluminum sheeting would work for the skin too wouldn't it? Maybe seal the seams with a good glue, epoxy or tar on the inside?
This is very cool though and I wish everyone lots of luck on your projects. =^-^=
SpaceRat in reply to love4pdsJun 27, 2011. 7:13 PM
Aluminum is a great idea! Being the tightwad I am , however, I like the cheapness of the electrical conduit (about 1/5 the cost of aluminum). And , I bet you could bolt together the conduit, too!

I should change my nick to "CheapRat" hehe
love4pds in reply to SpaceRatJun 29, 2011. 4:18 AM
LOL, it was kind of high but it could be such a difference in the weight though it may be worth it. :)
Good Luck on you project , can't wait to see it published in the featured section!!!
leifforrest in reply to SpaceRatJun 26, 2011. 10:36 PM
Check this guy out. He's a former aerospace engineer (was, he passed on). But he adapted a lot of aviation tech to canoes and kayaks.
http://gaboats.com/construction/
-chase- says: Jun 28, 2011. 11:41 AM
Nice job!

I've seen canoes and small water craft made from just about anything that you can make a water tite seal out off. Including duct tape before.

It's not a new idea but that doesn't a take away from the fact you tried it and were successfull at building a small water craft for a low cost.

Next - just as a suggestion you might want to move up to a folding plywood dingy type craft - they too can be built very cheaply - you sew them together, seal the edges and use a water proof cloth for the ends. You fold it up when not in use.

A single sheet of 1/4 inch ply will do. I have the plans for one if you care to try it. you're welcome to them or i'm sure you can find a instructable or the plans and make an instrucable for the build yourself.

again nice job on this one. looks to be a simple repair if you spring a leak!
Look forward to seeing future builds and what you come up with...

chase
Graeme58 says: Jun 28, 2011. 12:00 AM
What was the cost of this project? I can see that subbing in wood for PVC would work, In an emergency, but change the weight characteristics. Also, I was wondering, just how long this project took from start to finish? (The first time).

For those who want to use this as a quick and dirty form for a fiberglass version, Fiberglass, tends not to be as flexible as Carbon Fiber, and the Polyethylene resin usually used for fiberglass, breaks down in sunlight so you might want to put a Gel Coat over it to protect it. FiberJute, is more ecofreindly, although the resin is still probably toxic. Essentially to use fiberjute, you use a jute mat instead of glass or carbon fiber mat. My father tried to make Burlap walls, and as far as I know the Burlap he used, was a form of cloth made from Jute, so if you can find Jute fiber burlap, it might make a good matting. (There is a car being built from it here in Canada).

Don't forget that you can create a more lively kayak if you make it a bit bigger and build in some ballast along the bottom. I once reballasted my fathers canoe, (and rebuilt the floatation cells) and turned it into a much safer vehicle, my father had found it "Tippy" when he tried to sit up with his trick leg forward.
hyroc346 (author) in reply to Graeme58Jun 28, 2011. 10:32 AM
The total cost of the materials was approx $35. The PVC pipes cost $2.50 each, and each roll of duct tape was about $8. I found a 2x4 in a scrap wood pile at the hardware store for free, and already owned the tools (and trash bags). From start to finish, I probably spent 8 to 10 hours building it the first time.

Great advice on the fiberglass, thanks!
thomspengler says: Jun 27, 2011. 10:49 PM
We need a picture of you actually paddling this bad boy; the last photo looks like you're in 8" of water, with both feet on the bottom...
cdooley says: Jun 26, 2011. 10:50 AM
ok i have a question, i have a river on my property but it has several trees hidden underwater, and it can go up to 5 miles per hour. So if i hit a log at this speed would this kayak become destroyed??? Thankyou
alanator in reply to cdooleyJun 27, 2011. 8:17 AM
I can't imagine this boat holding up very well, especially if you hit an obstruction in the water. Most likely, it would puncture the boat and you'd take on water. This is a good idea though for a survival situation if you had plenty of duct tape and possibly some flexible branches.
azerger1 in reply to cdooleyJun 26, 2011. 7:38 PM
Okay. most costs in most situations.. trees in river + paddling/swimming = bad .. that is definitely true.
azerger1 in reply to cdooleyJun 26, 2011. 7:37 PM
Fallen trees in moving water are very hazardous, avoid them at all costs in all situations. Odds are your kayak would become "broached," on the logs and have the upstream pressure of the river tear it to shreds. Hopefully a paddler in that situation got clear of entanglement.
spartancaver says: Jun 27, 2011. 2:49 AM
I swear and warrant that this is true. I used duc tape to reverse a growing wart on my arm. google it . I applied a small patch for 7 days to the growing wart only to see it reduce and go completely away.
love4pds in reply to spartancaverJun 27, 2011. 8:16 AM
I have heard of that also, but that it took a lot longer.
alanator says: Jun 27, 2011. 8:15 AM
If you could build a cockpit rim out of a little pvc you could fit a sprayskirt on it, and then you could possibly even roll in that boat.
tinker234 says: Jun 24, 2011. 3:46 PM
hey for rapids could i add s layer of steel
shortw in reply to tinker234Jun 26, 2011. 10:21 PM
Plywood would be better, it is lighter and strong.
tinker234 in reply to shortwJun 27, 2011. 7:40 AM
well i think steel would be the best joice thanks
spartancaver in reply to shortwJun 27, 2011. 2:42 AM
marine grade plywood I assume?
RPeabody says: Jun 27, 2011. 7:29 AM
Nice project. Consider the effect on the environment before coating the kayak with any chemicals.
tn. says: Jun 26, 2011. 1:59 PM
pls bear with me - i got home from work, sat down, deleted crap, and opened up my instructable email (as i usually do, it being the most interesting thing in my inbox).

just a question re waterproofing (having first-hand experience how not-so-much duct tape), but would it work to smear fibreglass over the outside? you can buy it at the hardware store.

the only thing i'm thinking is that fibreglass works wierd with other substances so i dunno if it would reinforce/seal the duct tape or eat it for lunch.
spartancaver in reply to tn.Jun 27, 2011. 2:45 AM
weight on is weight in the water. consider how much more weight fiberglass would add. if you are not semi skilled in using fiberglass you could wind up with a total mess. and you cost just went up too.
tn. in reply to spartancaverJun 27, 2011. 4:29 AM
yeah, the cost is a factor - the weight thing, well... i already have to modify the canoe anyway ;)
rf in reply to tn.Jun 26, 2011. 6:14 PM
Fiberglass is not actually something you 'smear' on. It's a layering process, where you 'smear' on resin, add fiberglass, and smear on more resin.

Involved, messy and not applicable to just any surface.

tn. in reply to rfJun 26, 2011. 9:22 PM
i was just thinking about my ex repairing a good-sized hole in his canoe - didn't seem all that complicated, really.
LobosSolos says: Jun 27, 2011. 2:57 AM
My one bit of advice would be to do like the Mythbusters did in their Duct Tape Episode and use two layers of Duct Tape "Sticky Side" to "Sticky Side to make the outer skin of your boat, this would eliminate the need for the trash bags except potentially as an additional barrier. You could put the trash bags in between the layers or possibly do two sets of layers with the trash bags in between to add redundancy to your design.
leifforrest says: Jun 26, 2011. 10:30 PM
I wouldn't say duct tape is for dry environments only. My understanding is that Duct Tape was originally called Duck Tape. It was developed by the military so they could repair an amphibious vehicle they developed called the Duck.  http://www.duckbrand.com/Duck%20Tape%20Club/history-of-duck-tape.aspx ( Google tells me it was to waterproof ammunition boxes). After that the product was adopted by heating and air guys, manufactured in silver to match the sheet metal and called Duct tape.[ http://www.dukw.com/]

Anyway, check out skinning your frame with Dacron.Glue it on then heat shrink it for a tight fit. Still not puncture resistant, but no seams to leak.
Great idea BTW. Good job!
beauelk says: Jun 26, 2011. 7:54 AM
how much weight will it hold 150 180 200 ?????
hyroc346 (author) in reply to beauelkJun 26, 2011. 10:14 AM
I weigh 170 lbs and it held me just fine, although it was starting to ride low in the water so I wouldn't try putting too much more in it. If you need it to hold more weight, make it longer and wider!
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