This is my first  try at a Dust Cyclone separator A La' a home made dust deputy. Like many before me I too looked at the dust deputy and thought that I could have a crack at building one myself.

Nothing particularly tricky or major skills needed to make it but I used a variety of power tools to get to the conclusion. That is not to say you couldn't do it with only hand tools. The most valuable tool here in my humble opinion is my hot melt glue gun!!!

So here is the processes I went through to build it.

Step 1:

This is the cone I used. I bought it at our local hardware store in Sydney called Bunnings. Apart from a handful of tube adapters this was pretty much the only thing I bought....everything else I had in my shed.   So to the parts list:

1. Witches hat/safety cone 
2. A barrel with a tight fitting lid that MUST be very rigid.
3. 1 metre length of 50mm DWV pipe
4. 2 X 50mm-40mm reducer
5. Assorted ½ inch Plywood to make  2 rings and plug for the top of the cone.
6. Screws to suit
7. 50mm X 1000mm X 3mm Aluminium strap (optional but kind necessary for rigidity)
8. 6mm nuts and bolts for Aluminium strap above.
9. Vacuum tube to attach the cyclone…I had several lying around and I joined them together to make a big hose.
10. Self-Adhesive foam tape to seal the “plug” for the top of the cone.
11. Nuts and bolts to secure the input tube to the inlet of the cone.

The cone cost me $11 and the plastic pipe and fittings was about $10 but if you have the bits around your shop you could probably build it for zero cost.

To the build:

1. Start by laying out the plug for the top of the witches hat. The Bunnings one has raised circles in each corner and to keep this structural integrity I left these in tact. 
2. Here is the shaped plate that forms the plug on the top of the cyclone. It is just a square plate with the corners radiused to suit the plastic ring reinforcement as seen  I made this from ½ ″ plywood .
3. This is the 50mm-40mm reducer purchased from a hardware store or plumbing store. Funnily enough I use a 2″ Forstner bit and the 40mm side of the reducer makes a very snug fit (but if you are somewhere that does inches convert to a suitable size)
4. This is the 50mm DWF pipe cut on a 45°angle and it helps set out the hole that you need to cut out on the side angle. It is approximately 400mm long.
5. As can be seen  it is an egg or elongated teardrop shape that equates to the pipe entering close to the side on an angle. I marked it with a marker pen and drilled a series of connective holes that I then used a Stanley knife to “join the dots” and cut the hole.

<p>Hello dude check this photo out and see how if you put a spiral in your cone it will increase efficiency </p><p>. You can make one out of anything wide enough matbe sheet metal </p>
<p>Hi swr633...</p><p>Just wondering what kind of adhesive you used in joining various plastic pieces together? Thanks!</p>
<p>Please ignore - you used a glue gun. I guess silicone would also work.</p>
<p>Hi, i'm just wondering, does your cone collapes on itself when the vac <br>in working? Because I implemented a similar design but my trafic cone <br>(which is a heavy duty one) just keeps collapsing due to the vacuum. <br>Thanks</p>
Keith, The piece of pipe inside is a piece if 150mm long X 50mm wide to fit into the 50-40mm reducer. Once you have the 50-40mm reducer you just insert it all the way into the 50mm socket - the socket is about 35mm deep on the 50mm side but it butts up against the plywood top - so effectively it protrudes into the cone about 155-165mm depending on the angle of the shoulder on the 50-40mm reducer. Mine was 160mm deep from the bottom of the plywood top to the bottom of the suction pipe Hope that helps you...I found this from trying different depths by trial and error - this seems to be maximum suction while very little dust particles actually make it to your vacuum cleaner. Good luck in your building, it is a worthwhile addition to any workshop or shed!!!
THis is a great idea and I am building one just as soon as I find out how deep the pipe that goes into the center extends down into the cone? <br>Thanks
Nice job. If you add a pressure valve to the top of the drum, that will allow it to open and therefore prevent any collapse of either the drum or cyclone.
This is a great idea and a well laid-out and presented instructable, swr633! I particularly like that you bought a cone rather than stealing one from a road works site - the commercial cones are very expensive.<br> <br> You can correct the &quot;photo bomb&quot; by editing your 'ible and deleting all the photos from your Introduction except the two or three that show the finished product (the first and second photos perhaps?). In my first 'ible*, I had three photos: a close up, and a couple of &quot;the item in its surrounds&quot; shots.<br> <br> If this is your first instructable, I look forward to seeing more from you!<br> <br> *&nbsp;<a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Fish-pond-from-tractor-or-car-tires/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Fish-pond-from-tractor-or-car-tires/</a>
Apologies for the accidental &quot;photo Bomb&quot; but this is my first Instructable and I didn't quite get how the photo upload worked and subsequently uploaded everything!!! D'oH!!! Next one will be better.....
Genius! Such a good idea!

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