Introduction: Dwarven Leather Boots
I recall a time Long ago, before the abomination that is the hobbit trilogy came to it's horrible fruition. When that first movie had just come out, and I was overcome by the naïve enchantment of being back in middle earth for three more hours, before I realized what an awful movie it was. Yes, I was enthralled by the lush grasslands of the shire, the magnificent mountain ranges, and epic battles of that world; and I recall thinking to myself as I left that theater "OMG, Thorin just has the most FABULOUS shoes EVER!" And I knew I just had to have me some.
What follow is my quest to make myself som'a those magnificent dwarfish clompers.
As for materials, you're going to need some very thick leather, some medium leather, and some thin leather or heavy cloth. as for how much, well its hard to say exactly. I'd suggest laying out the pattern on the leather to make sure you can get all the pieces out of it. You will also need leather sewing supplies, a few leather work rivets, something sharp to cut the leather, and about 40 half inch nails.
Step 1: Pick Out Ye Leather
The first thing you will want to do is select the leather that you will be using.
For the upper part, you need something nearly as thick as the sole, but it can be softer and more flexible. For the sole, you will want to find as thick of a piece of leather as you can, within reason. It should be the kind of leather you would use to make a belt strap. It should be harder or softer depending upon what kind of ground you will be walking on. If you will be walking on mainly dirt and grass, you can get away with a softer piece, which will be easier to find, and e sew. However if, as will likely be the case, you will be walking on concrete to any great extent, you will want a hard, relatively inflexible sole, as the soft one would wear out within a matter of weeks. Vegetable tanned leather works best if you can get it, but is rather expensive and hard to find.
Step 2: Cut Dat Pattern Out.
Now cut out the pattern and trace it onto the leather, taking care to mark down the proper amount of holes. then just cut out the pieces with some heavy scissors or a sharp knife. Next you will need to punch out all of the holes. This can theoretically be done with a nail and hammer, but it is definitely worthwhile to get an actual leather punch. Even with a punch, making the holes will take a very long time. PERSEVERE. It is far better to get them done in one fell swoop than to drag it out.
I'm not trying to insult your intelligence when I say, pay attention to which way your pattern is facing. I don't know how many times I've been cut cut a-cuttin, only to realize I've cut out two of the same shoe.
Step 3: Of Copper and Iron
If you are going to add the armor plates, then you will want to do them next. I used copper from old water pipes for the toe plates, simply so that I could solder the seams closed.(I didn't have a welder when I made these) However, steel will work just as well if you have some means of closing the edges.
After you cut out the pieces for the toe plate, use a Flathead and a hammer and pound whatsoever sort of a design strikes your fancy into it, After you finish carving the patterns in them, hammer the plates into shape, then apply liberal amounts of solder to the edges.
the shin guard, I simply made out of heavy iron plate. Then, using a heavy pair of pliers, bent up a ridge around the edge. Then hammer that edge down toward the inside Then you just carve or paint whatever you want on it, Then bend it into shape. After that, the armor plates are done. (It should be noted that the armor plates are not strictly necessary, but look really cool)
Step 4: Sew That Thing Together, Part the First.
Now to begin sewing together the actual boots. First take pieces A1, A2 and B, and begin to sew them together at the front left corner. For this you need to use a unusual stitch that is specific to cobblering: you go down through the holes in the two pieces, but on the third piece, you stick the needle down into the top but out the side, leaving the bottom completely unblemished.Then go under the place where the next stitch will be then down through the top to do it again Continue stitching in this manner until you have sewn around the entire edge and attached pieces C, D, and E. Then, starting at the bottom, sew up the front of the toe and sew along the top for about 11/2 inches, cut the string and repeat on the other side. at this point you will need to stop sewing and attach the toe plate. Now finish sewing up the sides, attaching piece F.
Step 5: Sew That Thing Together, Part the Second
This is a good point to attach the heel. first take the four heel pieces and glue them together with rubber cement. after they are dry, position the heel on the shoe sole, and hammer in about 20 1/2 inch long nails, 10 from the bottom, 10 from the top. Now sew pieces G, H, I, one on top of the other, on top of piece C. Lastly, sew piece K on across the entire front of the upper part. Now all that remains is the toggle and straps. For the toggles, roll the toggle piece into a tight roll, then punch a hole through it and rivet it onto the end of the strap. do this for each strap. Now attach straps 2 and 3 to the shin plate, then sew or rivet all the straps onto the boot, For the toggle loops, put the boot on your foot and mark where you want each strap to fasten. then punch four holes and tie on a leather cord. Now if you want, you can sew a piece of fur around the top, but otherwise the boot is done.
Step 6: Prance About in Your Very Own Dwarf Boots
This step is very important, but needs no explaining.
Step 7: Patterns:
This pattern is for size 10 men's, but could probably be modified to fit almost anyone. I tried to make it fairly intuitive, edges of the same color are sewn together, and a couple pieces have little shapes you line up to form the whole.
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