Introduction: Dye a Vivid Ombre Shirt
I ombré dyed our duvet cover ages ago, and then I had about ten ladies over for an ombré dyeing party, yet I'm somehow only just now managing to scrape together a tutorial! I'll be sure to show you the duvet cover sometime soon, along with tips and tricks for dyeing such a large piece. In the meantime, you should try this. A couple of my ombré crafternoon party attendees dyed swimsuit coverups, and they turned out just as summery as can be. I definitely recommend a nice, bright lemon yellow for summer, and it fades light to dark really well!
If you have questions after you read through everything, leave 'em in the comments on this post, and I'll reply as soon as I can. There's a little bit of a learning curve to get a really nice, gradual fade, but it's fun to learn!
Step 1: What You Need
- White or light-colored natural-fiber garment (cotton, rayon, hemp, silk, etc.)
- Fiber reactive dye (Dharma Trading has an insane range of colors!)
- Soda ash
- Table salt
- Disposable gloves
- Ruler or tape measure (bonus if it's shaped like an owl)
Step 2: Flip & Dot
Flip your garment (shirt) inside out. Decide how far up you want the color to go. This will be the lightest part of the ombré. Mark a small dot there on the seam with your marker. Now, mark dots all the way down at even intervals, all the way to the bottom of the shirt. I marked a dot every two centimeters. Each dot will later guide how much of the shirt will get the next amount of dye. Since you're marking on the inside seam, nobody will ever see the dots.
Step 3: Mix & Dunk
Wash your garment ahead of time to get any residue off it. Mix water hot from the tap with the salt and soda ash. You'll add one cup of salt and one tablespoon of soda ash per gallon of water. Stir it until it's mixed thoroughly. Dunk the shirt, and then wring it out thoroughly.
Step 4: Dye Slurry
Put on your gloves! Dump about two tablespoons of powdered dye into a bowl, and add a little water. Mix to form a paste, and then add some more warm water, mixing carefully until you have no more clumps of powder. This dye is incredibly concentrated and will stain everything, so be very careful! (I used Dharma's PR22 Cobalt dye color.)
Visit the tutorial on my blog for reasons why I prefer this dye over the store-bought stuff.
Step 5: Tint the Water
Add dye to the water 1/4 teaspoonfull at a time, until you have a light color. You can test it by dipping a white rag or paper towel. You want the color to barely show up. Stir it really well. Now put a rod of some sort - even just a clothes hanger - over the top of the bucket to hang the shirt.
Step 6: Dip & Drape
Drape the shirt over the rod, and drop the bottom into the water until the top dot is level with the top of the water. Let it soak for three to five minutes.
Step 7: Retract & Darken
Make sure you have no dye on your gloves. Pull the shirt up, letting the excess hang over the side, until the second dot is level with the top of the water. Now, very carefully, add another 1/4 teaspoon of dye. Dip it into the side of the bucket away from the shirt, and swirl the teaspoon in the water until the dye has all soaked into the water. Now stir it around with your big spoon, and let that layer soak another three to five minutes.
Step 8: Less Dip & More Dye
Continue pulling the shirt up, one dot at a time, while you add one more spoonful of dye at each new layer. To deepen the effect, you can let the layers soak a bit longer each time so that the darker layers absorb more dye. When you get to the bottom, grab the shirt by the top, and wring it out from the top down into the bucket. Now throw it in the washer by itself, and wash it on the cold cycle. Voila - you should have a new piece of clothing with a gorgeous gradient!
I have a few more tips on step seven of the tutorial in this blog post.
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