Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 2Mechanical schema
Mechanical
The lamp body is made of plastic tubing (1 inch inner diameter) - we need one connector, and one cap. The power LED (on "star" pcb) will be glued (using heat conducting glue) to a long bolt which will be fastened to the plastic cap with two nuts. The bolt will keep the LED in centered position and will serve as a heat sink. Power LEDs must be operated with heatsinks - otherwise their life won't be long.
The light emmission characteristics of power LEDs alone are not very good, so we have to use special optics to form desired light beam. I used a 30 degrees collimator. The collimator comes on top of LED's star PCB. My collimator has exactly the diameter of the plastic tube I used - it fits perfectly with some glue from heat glue gun between tubing and collimator.
In my case, the rectifier was too big to fit it in the lamp body, so I used a separate 35mm film canister. The diodes and capacitors are connected using an wire connecting rail (which fits the canister), but they can be connected on an universal PCB board or simply soldered together.
The lamp body is made of plastic tubing (1 inch inner diameter) - we need one connector, and one cap. The power LED (on "star" pcb) will be glued (using heat conducting glue) to a long bolt which will be fastened to the plastic cap with two nuts. The bolt will keep the LED in centered position and will serve as a heat sink. Power LEDs must be operated with heatsinks - otherwise their life won't be long.
The light emmission characteristics of power LEDs alone are not very good, so we have to use special optics to form desired light beam. I used a 30 degrees collimator. The collimator comes on top of LED's star PCB. My collimator has exactly the diameter of the plastic tube I used - it fits perfectly with some glue from heat glue gun between tubing and collimator.
In my case, the rectifier was too big to fit it in the lamp body, so I used a separate 35mm film canister. The diodes and capacitors are connected using an wire connecting rail (which fits the canister), but they can be connected on an universal PCB board or simply soldered together.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
![Voltage Regulated [5v] Bicycle Dynamo Light & USB Charger](http://img.instructables.com/files/deriv/FKR/TCHO/GSEEJZIP/FKRTCHOGSEEJZIP.SQUARE.jpg)
the heat conducting layer, must have to isolate or can be conductive? Thanks.
I want to thank you for this guide, I've just finished to soldering and assembling everything. It works really fine! Just an idea for the radiator: I used an old radiator from an old PC, just resized with a little saw, add a conductive paste and to keep all together I used 2 paper clip. I put all in to an old stile dynamo's light, a really cool effects!! I'm going to try it tomorrow, and I'll let you know.
Thanks and greetings from Italy,
Bye.