This is prototype of 8 inch pad for e-drum.
It is made from multiple parts. I did not want to make drums with conspicuous bolts to connect the parts. Therefore, as much as possible, the joint part was made inconspicuous and designed to look like one part. Why? That's because it is cool.
I do not know why, but I started making drums. The reason is not necessary so much to make things. I just wanted to make it.
I studied insanely and managed to make the first prototype. I made it using a laser cutter rather than a 3D printer. I wanted to share it quickly, but nobody has a laser cutter, do you? So I redesigned it so that I could create even a small 3D printer I had.
Information on the net was very helpful in making this. I am really grateful to the great DIY enthusiasts. I think that this drum should be helpful for someone.
If there are some mistakes in English, I'd like to apologize.
This project is under development. I will release the detailed production process on this blog.
Step 1: What You'll Need
- 2 or 1x Piezo
- 15x M3*10mm bolts and nuts
- 6x M6*50mm bolts and nuts
- 1mm thick paper
- 8 inch mesh head
if you have sound module,
- 6.3 mm plug
if you don't have sound module,
Step 2: Print With 3D Printer
All parts are here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2030095
You need 120mm*120mm print area.
We need to print 6 pieces of rim.
There are two parts on the bottom, 3 in each.
Finally, print 1 part to fix the bottom part.
Step 3: Assemble
You will be assembled when you see parts and pictures.
Step 4: Making Shell
I did not make shells with 3D printers because I wanted to make shells with one part. The shell that the bolt is exposed is not beautiful. Also, cutting paper is much faster than making it with a 3D printer.
This procedure may be a bit difficult.
However, it is only to cut and paste the thick paper.
First,the shell height is 40mm.
So make a band with a width of 40 mm.
Make three of this. The length may be any length as long as it covers the pad.
There is a gap in the bottom part, so try fitting one band into that gap.
Because the band is cutting extra, it should be surplus. Mark off the remaining part and cut it off.
Repeat this 3 times and bond with bond.
Fix with the clothes pins and wait for drying
When dried it becomes a surprisingly solid shell.
Step 5: Piezo and Plug
Connect a piezo as shown in the picture. The resistance is 1 MΩ.
NOTICE If you plan to connect to the sound module, you do not need resistance.Resistance seems to be built in most sound modules. Roland's was like that.
The middle black cable is GND.
Connect the piezo to a 6.3 mm jack.
The root of Jack is GND, the tip is piezo of the head, the middle is piezo of the rim. If you only have one piezo, you do not have to use the middle.
You need two piezo for the head and the rim, but if only the head is enough you can only have one piezo.
Since a 6.3 mm jack is for connecting to a sound module, those who do not have a sound module should be ready to connect to the bread board.
Step 6: Trigger Cone
First, attach the piezo to the bottom part like a top photo.
In the center, place the piezo of the head and place the piezo of the rim near the shell.
I made a cone by stacking 10 mm sponge. (natural rubber)
If Roland's cone is easily available in your country, you'd better buy it. Unfortunately I could not get it in Japan.
It is good if the cone protrudes about 3 mm when seeing the shell from the side.The height was adjusted by overlapping double sided tape. Anything from paper or board could be good.
The structure of the trigger is easy to understand when seeing this movie.
Step 7: Tuning
Once you put the piezo on, you only need to assemble it.
If you adjust the head so that it will be your favorite hardness, the pad is ready.
Step 8: Play With Roland's Sound Module
If you have a sound module, just plug it in.
You do not have such a thing?
Do not worry.We have Arduino.
Step 9: Play With Arduino
Here is a great instructables.