Free Air Conditioning by Vyger
Featured
finished.jpg
Technically it should be called a heat exchanger, we lovingly call it the water cooler, but it has been providing us with free cold air for more than 20 years now so it definitely does work.
Shortly after moving here (Montana) I noticed that the water from our well is really cold, under 50 degrees. I built this heat exchanger to take advantage of that cold source for use in the house in the summer and as a byproduct it heats up the water going to the garden a bit before it goes on the plants since the plants didn't seem to care to much for the super cold water. Good benefits all the way around and since I would be pumping the water to water outside anyway the only actual cost is the power to run the box fan that moves the air through the copper piping.
How well does it work? We hit a high temperature in July of 112F, hottest that I can remember. The temperature inside was 76F with the cooler running all the time. I almost didn't want to go out to move the sprinkler.
The disadvantages? Well, you have to move the sprinkler a lot, but it does keep the grass green. Also if the humidity gets high, water will condense on the exchanger the same as on a glass of cold water. So I keep towels underneath it to soak up the moisture. If it gets really muggy I have to change the towels several times a day. I just hang the wet set outside in the heat to dry and rotate the dry ones back under the cooler.
It will take some skill to put it together but once done it is maintenance free, except for the time I left it outside before putting it away for the winter and it froze some leftover water in a pipe and broke it. Make sure to get the water out of it and store it where its above freezing.
Another disadvantage, it isn't pretty, but it is unique and truly "green".
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Check your water temp

watertemp.jpg
For this to work at all you need to have cold incoming water. The colder the better. Get a standard waterproof thermometer and run your outside water for a while and find out what temp it is. This probably will not work in places where you have a municipal water supply unless its from a cold source. Also you need to have enough ground to water so you don't water log your garden and lawn. It will probably work best in rural areas.
With the fan turned off and the water running outside the temp of my copper pipe is 48F (Infrared non contact thermometer reading)
1-40 of 314Next »
samaddon says: Dec 15, 2012. 11:13 PM
mind blowing project i have also developed one similar to this it works ! bu i used good quality heatsinks and only one table fan but i am really surprised to see that it can also be made by some general household things!
awesome!
regards!
Samad Haque
brittonv says: Jul 23, 2012. 6:25 AM
Have you thought about connecting this to a traditional Air conditioner air handler and use a thermostat to trigger your well pump? Great Idea though, wish it work here in South Florida.

I would think that the more efficient air handler with a blower would enable you to do the same thing using less water..

Awesome project!
gregtompkins says: Jul 9, 2012. 8:01 AM
This is a great idea! We happen to have a few old cooler consender and A/C coils (I guess also known as "heat exchangers"). I followed the setup here and it DOES work! Now, I have an old Everstar "portable air conditioner" that doesn't cool very well I figured it would look a lot more "asthetic" and it already has the fan built in. What I want to do is retrofit that into one of these coolers. Could anybody offer suggestions on how to do this if I put some pictures up? I also would need help with modifying the electronics - I just want to use BOTH exchangers withe the fans on at the same time.

Thanks!
spafford says: Sep 27, 2011. 7:04 AM
My question is ... How warm is the water when it reaches the garden? Is the hose laid on the ground after it leaves the cooler(which would make the water hotter)? I was just wondering the temp of the water that is coming out of the "cooler" as to determine if all the "coolness" is extracted from the water. I guess ideally you would only want the coldest air extracted but if the temp on exit is still the same more air flow and a larger "Radiator" could really make cold! Of course, flow rate is a major factor and I wanna couple this with drip irrigation and a large GARDEN :) This is an awesome idea! I had thought about it, but had not put it to work. Much praise 'ol mighty inventor, people such as yourself are the last line of defense in energy corruption.
Vyger (author) says: Sep 29, 2011. 12:03 PM
The rise in water temperature depends on a lot of factors. Even the air temperature plays a role. But the biggest factor is the flow rate of the water. If its running pretty slow, such as just a single sprinkler that is turned down, then the rise is pretty noticeable. You can tell the difference just by touching the in and out hoses. Also the out hose has very little condensation on it. If the flow rate is high then the temperature drop is pretty small.
There is about 150 feet of hose between the outlet and the garden. The water does get warmer just from the air while flowing through the hose. I have never checked the temperature at the garden end. The water is still cold, but not the bone chilling temperature that it is coming straight from the well.
garretttm says: Jun 26, 2012. 1:33 AM
Old i know, but just a thought...
If your water starts at 50F and you lose at most 15deg in the process, you should still be well under ambient temps and be able to reuse the same water (granted, at lower efficiency).
Times when you are only using 1 sprinkler and therefore have low flow you could have a recycle valve to loop the same water through several times before it is ultimately used.
Have you thought of/ experiment with this? It's hard to guess how effective it would be as there are so many variables, but it seems solid on paper
Vyger (author) says: Jul 1, 2012. 2:49 PM
I could add extra heat exchangers in other places, and in fact have thought of doing that, but the main point of the project is not to get maximum efficiency out of it but to harness what usually just goes to waste. Outside watering is the priority, getting cool while you water is a fringe benefit. It just so happens that you usually need to water the most when its the hottest out.

There is also another factor involved and that is the more pipe you add the greater the resistance to the water flow so you drop the outside water pressure and flow amount. And of course the more pipe, the greater the chance of a leak.
Bonzoix says: Jul 11, 2010. 8:31 AM
For those without a well, couldn't we dig a field in the backyard to run lines through to recool the water to ground temp? Like a DIY geo-thermal A?C unit? Then we would need a pump or an impeller driven by the same motor as the fan... Love the instructable.
bob.the.devil says: Jun 21, 2012. 6:00 PM
sadly no. dirt doesn't have a great heat exchange so it wouldn't "cool" the water much. the only reason this system works is that it is a one way trip. the water doesn't get recycled so it doesn't need to cool back down. if you used a ground cooling method the water would not stay cool for more that a few hours because the radiator on the fad has a better heat exchange than the dirt (more heat is added than is taken away on each loop) good thought process though only about 1% of our ideas are good ones and yet humanity still moves forward, just goes to show how valuable it is to keep thinking.
spafford says: Sep 27, 2011. 7:08 AM
I think that is an excellent added addition! I think a key I would like to add is to make sure the water remained bacteria free.
bob.the.devil says: Jun 21, 2012. 6:03 PM
they are saying run hoses underground not run water through dirt, would still be just as clean (or just as dirty i should say) as tap. also the radiator uses copper which inhibits bacteria and mold. also it is in an water tight radiator so even if there was bacteria you wouldn't come in contact with it.
tinker234 says: Feb 21, 2012. 8:30 PM
wow could you use painters tarp for the water leaks in case
Vyger (author) says: Feb 24, 2012. 2:12 PM
I haven't had any water leaks. There is condensation, just like on a glass of ice water in a warm room. But my climate is pretty arid and dry so condensation is usually only a problem a few times in the summer. If it was a constant problem I would look for better solution but I have been going on the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" thinking for now.
ivelknuf says: Jun 7, 2011. 9:39 AM
Quick question. It seems you have your "air conditioner" loop connected to the pipe that goes to the exterior faucet(s). Have you thought about connecting it to the main inlet to your house? That way, no matter what your water usage is, the air conditioner will be receiving "coolant".
Vyger (author) says: Jun 7, 2011. 11:42 AM
That would be a possibility. The reason I have it separate though is that the house water goes through a rust and dirt filter and then a water softener. The outside water is untreated which is why it stains things red sometimes.
This may be changing in the next few years though. For almost 15 years they (federal, state and local and tribal) have been working on a rural water system. Because of the poor quality ground water (it's high in alkali and iron) it was proposed and accepted to set set up an entire water system complete with a many million dollar filter plant that will use Missouri river water. They now are close to finishing the plant and are putting in the main delivery trunk lines. It is a huge project and the mains will run about 175 miles end to end. I am supposed to linked up to it eventually (we have joked, if we live long enough). At that time I don't know whether I will keep my well running. I will have to see what the water temp will be. They are also supposed to add outside spigots for watering, but again its a wait and see thing.
johnny3h says: Aug 21, 2011. 9:36 AM
@ Vyger. I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you DO NOT use the TREATED domestic water for your irrigation AND/OR air conditioning as POTABLE water from a domestic system IS VERY EXPENSIVE.

I would use the domestic supply for drinking, cooking, bathing, laundry, etc.

But CONTINUE YOUR WELL OPERATION for a few reasons:

1. In the event of failure of the domestic municipal system your well would be a good emergency back up.
2. In our area [SE Texas} a disused well will "silt in" and become totally unusable, AND COST A SMALL FORTUNE to have it "redrilled."
3. In Texas, due to deteriorating underground aguafer water availability, there is talk of a "freeze" on the installation of any new wells, which means that only those with existing wells will be able to use the underground aquafer water, and thus be FORCED to use the EXPENSIVE TREATED municipal water source(s). So since you have the well established, I would keep it operational.
Vyger (author) says: Aug 21, 2011. 3:59 PM
In Montana the DNRC (Department of Natural Resources and Conservation) collects a tax ( A small one) on all wells. Mine is paid up for the next ten years at least.
Because of all the rain and snow this year our water table has actually gone up. Not the norm but good to know for us. My sister did some research and she found that last time there was a weather pattern like this for the north and the south was in 1956 when Oklahoma set new heat records. Hopefully your area will return to normal precip and help the water table there.
They are spending a lot of money to put in this water system but I don't know that I will trust it for a while. This area has had a lot of water main problems in the cities. A rural one I think might have similar problems. Keeping a water main down far enough underground to prevent freezing causes all kinds of issues with shifting and such. So yes I will keep my well going.
johnny3h says: Jun 14, 2011. 10:40 AM
Using TREATED, municipal water IS VERY EXPENSIVE and wasteful of a limited resource. The municipal systems are for POTABLE drinking, cooking and bathing water and such one-time cooling use of that water would be VERY UN-GREEN.

After going on the municipal system for your potable water, CONTINUE to maintain your well and cooling system, AND also use it for ALL IRRIGATION [lawn, garden, etc.] as that will be MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE, and will not tax [overload] your municipal, potable water system. This protection of the capacity of a municipal potable water system is CRITICAL in periods of draught, when most municipalities enact ordinances to RESTRICT water use so they can keep up with damand so that EVERYONE can have potable water.
RONE says: Aug 23, 2007. 4:20 PM
I can't tell which direction you have the water flowing (through the exchanger closest to fan first or last) or which way you have the fan pointed (blowing through the exchanger or sucking through the exchanger), but I wanted to make a note of the most efficient way for the water to flow: Have the coldest water (straight from the well) flow through the last exchanger, and the warmest water flow through the first exchanger - I am using "first" to refer to the first exchanger the air would move through, and "last" to refer to the last exchanger the air would move through. The idea is to set up a counter-current mechanism, just like fish use in their gills for O2/CO2 exchange and all male animals use in their testes to transfer heat from the artery to the vein prior to the blood entering the testicles to keep the temperature lower. Great instructable, by the way!
Vyger (author) says: Aug 21, 2011. 3:41 PM
The fan is pushing the air through rather than pulling. It seams that box fans work better at blowing. I do use them in a window to "suck" the heat from inside and exhaust it to the outside but they are still more just blowing. The fins act as a type of cowling so I have never seen the need to encase it. it might look better if I did but it would also create its own set of problems with water condensation. This year was the first time I actually had a problem with excess condensation but this is also the first time in most peoples memory that we have had such high humidity here.
The coldest water (incoming) is the last one the air goes through. I have tried reversing it but I didn't notice that much difference. But it just makes sense that the air goes over the coldest metal last. A bigger puzzle is if it makes much of a difference what the fan speed is. One would think that the slower the air speed the colder the air would get but on the low setting it doesn't appear to move enough air to cool very well. On medium only the room its in gets cooled while on high it pushes the cold air into the other rooms. I could probably engineer it better and get more efficiency but I think the gains would not be that great. It does what I need in its current form so I have been happy with that. I might change it around in the future but for now its good.
I initially had only one layer of exchangers, that didn't work as good. Adding the other 2 layers helped a lot. I thought about adding a forth but if I do that then it will become difficult to move. I would almost have to make it in sections. So again I am opting for simplicity rather than super efficiency.
johnny3h says: Aug 21, 2011. 10:50 AM
@ RONE.  It's been something like 45 years since I took college Physics, but as I recall, what you are describing is based on one of the principles of Thermodynamics that says something to the effect that, "the greater the DIFFERENCE in temperature, the more RAPID the transfer of heat."

So, yes, I think your suggestion of "counter-flow" would be the better approach.
Vyger (author) says: Aug 24, 2007. 4:42 PM
I posted an answer to your question in step 7 that I just added.
triumphman says: Jun 12, 2011. 11:23 AM
I tried to make a wood stove hot water pre-heater like your design, with baseboard tubes. But the elbows were too close to solder. One joint would un-solder when I tried to solder the other side. How do you solder the elbows so they won't leak???? Help!!!!
knthms says: Aug 21, 2011. 11:05 AM
wet rag over joimt to not be soldered
johnny3h says: Jun 14, 2011. 10:33 AM
I've had this issue before, and the "trick" is to carefully clean and prep ALL surfaces in those two connections, including proper fluxing.

Then preheat the entire section uniformly [requires practice and developed skill] and then when preheated, quickly apply the solder to sweat each joint "almost" simultaneously.

Again, this proces is like walking what in the circus is called a "slack rope," which is difficult but not impossible.
triumphman says: Jun 17, 2011. 8:26 AM
Yes, I can solder a nice single joint! Its called "sweating" by the plumbers. Shiny & clean copper is the key too. I love it when you get the joint just the right temp. and the solder almost sucks- flows magically into the spaces between the pieces ! What kind - brand of flux do you use?
johnny3h says: Aug 21, 2011. 9:23 AM
@ triumphman. Sorry, but I'm not where I can check the brand name, BUT... it is a common paste type flux for sweating plumbing that I got at my local [SE Texas] hardware store. It comes in a round blue colored can about 1/2 inch deep by about 2 inches in diameter. Over the last 55+ years I " think" I've used about 2 1/2 cans as "a little bit goes a long way."

Since it is NOT an acid based flux, I use it for all my electrical and electronic soldering also.
Jollyrgr says: Mar 17, 2009. 8:58 PM
An idea to add to "The Lightning Stalker's" suggestion. Why not add a water pad like those found in swamp coolers? Use the waste condensate collected in the pan to wet the pad. Simply place the pad in the collection pan so that it wicks up the water and is evaporated.
johnny3h says: Aug 21, 2011. 10:39 AM
@ Jollyrgr.  Yes, that could be done, BUT... evaporative cooling INSIDE the hyouse would increase the relative HUMIDITY, AND as a result, add to the cooling load, and the evaprative cooling water vapor CONTAINS the heat removed from the air.  Eventually, you would reach an equilibrium temperature HIGHER than if the condensate water were totally REMOVED from the house.

ALSO, the less humidity in the interior air, the "cooler" one will feel because the lower humidity will enhance the evaporation of body moisture [persperation/sweat] which occurs ALL THE TIME, regardles of ambient temperature, especially in summer, but even in the winter.
dan says: Aug 16, 2007. 6:48 PM
you should be able to recycle a radiator from a junkyard car for this, that would be already made in a good size and shape.
johnny3h says: Aug 21, 2011. 10:18 AM
AND, if one is lucky, it will have the plastic FAN SHROUD [to maximize the efficiency of the fan] AND maybe even an electric fan! With this set-up all one would have to do is provide a 12 volt power source of the right current capacity!
Vyger (author) says: Aug 24, 2007. 4:48 PM
I just added an extra page that talks about using radiators, its step 7. As I mention, I don't recommend it.
dan says: Aug 24, 2007. 6:02 PM
ooh, thanks for the info and good point about the water pressure for a house-integrated system.
ironsmiter says: Aug 19, 2007. 1:51 AM
if you can find a "scrap yard" instead of a parts yard... buy the car radiators, fanshroud, and electric fans from 2-3 cars. DON'T take any out of any geo metros. i know they're JUST the right size, are plentiful, cheap as dirt, andeasy to remove... but my "new" 96 metro @48MPG may oneday need THAT radiator. automotive radiators, with their shouds, tend to be more efficient at heat transfer as an added bonus. Where I am, we have our 114 year old, hand dug well AND city water since the watertable is too poluted with pesticide runoff from Chem-lawn.... And we have the old septic field that hasn't been used in an eternity either... An idea would be... Solar cell->wellpump->radiator/fan->fishpond areator head->septic tank/leech field. Hmm. wonder how much a solar cell, capable of running a 1/4HP well pump would be :-)
shortw says: Jul 10, 2010. 3:51 PM
To run a 1/4 hp motor you would need about a 400 watt solar panel that charges a battery. 1 hp = 756 watts, but on motors that is output , not input. motors have a efficiency of 80%. Also motors require 4 to 10 times the power rating on the name plate of the motor for start-ups
Prometheus says: Aug 27, 2007. 12:19 AM
I have to disagree that car radiators are better for this project as they are not designed to disperse as much heat as the one used here. Also used radiators may be clogged and are automatically contaminated to non-potable-levels, especially junkyard ones. If you had a radiator from a car that had cracked a head or the block, you might be adding petroleum to your list of chemicals that the radiators would leech back into the groundwater when returned to a garden as Vygar does. A typical solar-cell capable of running a typical 1/4hp DC motor would run you about $700
TheRevJester says: Aug 23, 2007. 4:27 PM
Glad to see there's also a fan of the Geos. Screw hybrids. I'll get 5 early 90s Geos and be guaranteed to get at least 1.5 million miles out of them. No battery replacement either!
pedxing says: Aug 22, 2007. 7:21 PM
.25 hp = 186.424968 watts according to google calculator.

Fairly significant, since an 80W panel is quite large.

Nice thing is, you won't need to run it unless it's quite sunny.

How about Solar Cell->well pump->radiator->elevated holding tank
Then drain the tank back into the well at night.

This way you can keep it running, without worrying about running your well dry.
shortw says: Jul 10, 2010. 4:01 PM
Remember, .25 hp is output not input. Solar panel is rated at best output at best conditions at the best time of the year respecting the angle of the sun . Inverters and charge controlers itself eat up power too. And most of all, a lot of losses will be encountered with the battery.
Ole bally says: Jul 22, 2011. 1:59 AM
Just thinking...you could use the bottom of beverage cans punched through for your fins!
1-40 of 314Next »
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!