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Noise bothers me more than most. Though the Yamaha EF2000is and Honda EU2000i are among the quietest and most reliable generators they still make noise. This project was inspired by boondock camping and having to charge camper batteries every couple/few days. For example if you find yourself in a campground or park that allows generators during certain hours but has mostly tent campers OR limits generators to onboard ones (using an enclosure should get you by). Also useful for emergency use in subdivisions with smaller lots.

(UPDATE: Of course there's been other somewhat similar efforts but hadn't found one at this particular size/cost/weight/effort/efficacy point)

Very happy with performance so far and box is easily portable and makes a great storage/travel box for generator. BUT you've got to REALLY want this thing to go through the trouble & expense (<= $150?) of building it:)

Standard disclaimers apply, you build this project at your own risk and take full responsibility for any consequences. This project directly violates product warnings and warranties and introduces possibly flammable materials in close proximity to the generator.

I built this enclosure in the Fall of 2015 and have used it a few times for several hours each since then, so not extensive use. Measured generator case temperatures and they did not differ much from generator outside of box. Box has dual fans, intake and exhaust, so should survive one of them failing. Think key risk is the adhesive properties of sound deadening materials, do not economize there. As always generators are not to be run unattended.

Step 1: How Much Quieter With Box

Here's results from a sound test I performed on my driveway. Sound levels are noticeably lower on gravel or dirt vs pavement which conducts/reflects sound. Pretty satisfied with the sound reduction, especially in upper frequencies that are most annoying.

Step 2: Materials

Will probably forget some things as built this 18 months ago. Here's what I remember using:

* Blue Hawk 27-Gallon Plastic tote with lid (131957) available through Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

* 2 "120mm 25mm Case Fan 12V DC 124 CFM" via eBay. Fan physical size is critical, CFM may vary (see Comments).

* 12V supply line/plug for your generator, billed as a battery charge line.

* 2 "Rubbermaid Specialty Food Storage Containers, Bread Keeper, Red (1832489)" via Amazon

* "[4 Pack] Mybecca 2-inch Acoustic WEDGE Premium Studio Soundproofing Foam Wall Tiles 12 x 12 x 2 Inches" via Amazon

* "Fantasycart Automotive Sound and Heat Deadening Insulation Mat 88"x39"", adhesive backed, via Amazon. There are thicker, more effective & pricy engine noise barriers options.

* 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive via Home Depot for wedge foam tiles pieces

* Screen to cut for intake sides of fans, box top grab handles, clear plastic/handle/hinge (mine was a kitchen cabinet spring open one) for door, ZIP ties, 2-conductor cord, small L-brackets, nuts & bolts, sheet of something to sit under generator during storage.

Step 3: Construction

Hopefully evident from the photos:) Key bits for my Yamaha EF2000is build:

* Placement & holes in Bread Keepers - Keepers should be about 3.5" up from box opening/ground for air/handle clearance. Holes should be large and roughly aligned with intake & exhaust, especially exhaust so that it exits directly though hole into bread keeper. Holes should extend from above fan locations to below top allowing clearance for mounting bolts, fan L-brackets.

* Fans are wired in parallel, mounted about 2" up into bread keepers & held only on box side by 2 small L-brackets and, after rounding fan outers slightly, they'll wedge fit into keepers. Screens are ZIP tied to intake sides of fans (w/short spacers) to keep any debris from fouling fan. Fans blow toward their label sides, generator intake side (right) blows in/up, exhaust side (left) blows out/down. Fans connect in parallel to generator's 12V charge line/wire/plug, solder & use heat-shrink tubing over connections.

* I washed/cleaned plastic box & bread keeper interiors well prior to applying materials, using 90%+ alcohol as a final wipe. The automotive hood deadening insulation is pesky stuff to measure, cut & fit - wants to stick before in place. The acoustic wedge placements are particular to EF2000is and serve to cut noise & also help center/properly position lid when lowering onto generator. Use sparingly & pay attention to acoustic wedge direction, you want right-to-left (intake -> exhaust) air flow through box. Use plenty of 3M Spray Adhesive on both side for acoustic wedges during fitment.

* Box makes great storage/travel container for generator. Don't lift box with generator in it, place box with sheet of something like plastic in its bottom for support then fit generator when storing.

Step 4: Testing

Be sure to fully test generator with cover prior to actual use. I used my house refrigerator as heavy load test, using heavy extensions (12/14 AWG?) for a few hours with generator/box in sun for my initial test. Compared temp measurement by hand & infrared thermometer on generator in & out of box and found them to be fine.

Since the test I've used this combo on a couple camping trips and its worked well, of course YMMV.

Did you check the temperature inside the enclosure while operating for long periods? I would be concerned about moving enough air.
<p>Oops, my estimated box air turnover calcs were for an *empty* box. But there's a 2+ cu ft generator in it, so maybe &gt; 24 air exchanges per min... Lower CFM fans than what I used would probably work as well.</p>
<p>Like inferred in the instructable, I've run for the gen in box for about 3-&gt;4 hrs under load and measured/compared temps by hand &amp; with infrared thermometer &amp; I recall them being &quot;fine&quot;. IIRC gen was actually cooler running in this box vs running out in the sun but don't have specific measurements right now.</p><p>Next time I'm using it I'd do the better thing - use a thermometer that keeps high/low temps with remote (wired) probe in the box &amp; post more specific info.</p><p>BUT I calculate the box volume at about 5 cu ft and so the 120 cu ft/min pusher &amp; puller fans would mean air turnover of about 24 times per min (in a perfect world)... Seems like a lot to me, much more than any similar passive enclosure relying solely on exhaust to evacuate box.</p><p>Note dual, matched fans are also used to try to avoid pressure or vacuum in the box (that carburetor may not like). Again its been working great the few times I've had to use it.</p>

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