From simple everyday parts you can make this glove which has two modes. Mode 1 is a constant output of slightly over 300 v. while Mode 2 takes a few seconds to charge, but gives off a much more painful shock. All that voltage from a simple AA battery, Yay science.
Expect to spend around 20$ for this fun and rewarding project.
Expect to spend around 20$ for this fun and rewarding project.
Step 1: Parts
In addition to the parts listed below, some basic tools are required, such as a soldering iron, drill, screwdrivers, etc. All the basic things that a well equipped tinkerer should have.
Parts:
1. Chemical resistant rubber glove. I bought mine at home depot, it dosent really need to be chemically resistant, just insulated enough to protect you from electricity.
2. Disposable camera
3. Aluminum foil
4. 2 Toggle Switches with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602) from the shack
5. Pushbutton switch from the shack
6. AA battery holder
7. Devcon weldit all purpose glue
8. Project box (As close to 3x2x1.5 as you can get) same as the one from the ignitor instructable
Parts:
1. Chemical resistant rubber glove. I bought mine at home depot, it dosent really need to be chemically resistant, just insulated enough to protect you from electricity.
2. Disposable camera
3. Aluminum foil
4. 2 Toggle Switches with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602) from the shack
5. Pushbutton switch from the shack
6. AA battery holder
7. Devcon weldit all purpose glue
8. Project box (As close to 3x2x1.5 as you can get) same as the one from the ignitor instructable
Step 2: Take apart the camera
This step varies with the different cameras so I can only give a general instruction for this part.
Steps:
1. Remove label, box, sticker, or whatever package the camera is wrapped in, so it is just bare plastic.
2. Find how the camera is held together most often it is small plastic latches around the camera, which can be bent open with a screwdriver.
3. Open the camera, and be very careful not to touch any of the circuitry.
4. Carefully remove the AA battery.
5. Discharge any current still in the capacitor by bridging the two leads with a metal screwdriver.
6. The circuitry is now safe to handle, so remove it from the camera casing.
Steps:
1. Remove label, box, sticker, or whatever package the camera is wrapped in, so it is just bare plastic.
2. Find how the camera is held together most often it is small plastic latches around the camera, which can be bent open with a screwdriver.
3. Open the camera, and be very careful not to touch any of the circuitry.
4. Carefully remove the AA battery.
5. Discharge any current still in the capacitor by bridging the two leads with a metal screwdriver.
6. The circuitry is now safe to handle, so remove it from the camera casing.
Step 3: Modifying the circuitry
There are a few things on the circuitry that you need to identify before you do this step. The first is the capacitor which is the cylindrical thing, you should have discharged in the previous step. Other points of interest are the indicator LED light and the switch that is used to charge the capacitor.
Steps:
1. Unsolder the indicator LED, solder 2-3 inch wires to each of the LED's leads, and solder those wires back into the circuit. Simply put your just making a little extension cord for the LED.
2. Unsolder the capacitor attach short wires to each of its leads and put it aside for later.
3. Using a small piece of wire, bridge the switch that is used to charge the capacitor, so it will always be on.
4. I have finally replaced step 4 with a schematic
5. Solder in 2 10in. wires connecting them to the 2 wires you just soldered into the board. These wires will go to the fingers of the glove.
Steps:
1. Unsolder the indicator LED, solder 2-3 inch wires to each of the LED's leads, and solder those wires back into the circuit. Simply put your just making a little extension cord for the LED.
2. Unsolder the capacitor attach short wires to each of its leads and put it aside for later.
3. Using a small piece of wire, bridge the switch that is used to charge the capacitor, so it will always be on.
4. I have finally replaced step 4 with a schematic
5. Solder in 2 10in. wires connecting them to the 2 wires you just soldered into the board. These wires will go to the fingers of the glove.
Step 4: Making the final package
You will now place all the circuitry and wiring into the project box.
Steps:
1. Drill 4 holes on the top of the project box. 3 for the switches and 1 for the LED.
2. Glue the AA battery holder to the side of the project box, and drill 2 holes into the box for the wires from it.
3. Drill 2 holes on the side of the box for the wires going to the fingers.
4. Insert the different switches into each hole and securing them, make sure that the two switches for the capacitor are next to each other. (In the photo it is the two on the right)
5. Solder one of the wires from the battery holder to the remaining unused switch, then take a short length of wire and solder it from the other lead on the swtich to the correct polarity of where the battery was connected on the circuit board. Take the other wire from the external battery holder and solder it to the opposite polarity. It is a good idea to unsolder the metal clips from the circuit board that were used to hold the battery, and then solder the wires into the holes they were in.
6. Glue the LED into its hole, above the main power switch.
7. Feed the two 10 in wires through the holes on the side.
8. Put the circuit board inside the project box, and close it up. It will probably be a very tight fit, you may even need to trip down the sides of the board.
9. Check to make sure no wires are bridging, if they are wrap some electrical tape around them.
10. Close up the box.
Steps:
1. Drill 4 holes on the top of the project box. 3 for the switches and 1 for the LED.
2. Glue the AA battery holder to the side of the project box, and drill 2 holes into the box for the wires from it.
3. Drill 2 holes on the side of the box for the wires going to the fingers.
4. Insert the different switches into each hole and securing them, make sure that the two switches for the capacitor are next to each other. (In the photo it is the two on the right)
5. Solder one of the wires from the battery holder to the remaining unused switch, then take a short length of wire and solder it from the other lead on the swtich to the correct polarity of where the battery was connected on the circuit board. Take the other wire from the external battery holder and solder it to the opposite polarity. It is a good idea to unsolder the metal clips from the circuit board that were used to hold the battery, and then solder the wires into the holes they were in.
6. Glue the LED into its hole, above the main power switch.
7. Feed the two 10 in wires through the holes on the side.
8. Put the circuit board inside the project box, and close it up. It will probably be a very tight fit, you may even need to trip down the sides of the board.
9. Check to make sure no wires are bridging, if they are wrap some electrical tape around them.
10. Close up the box.
Step 5: Attatch it to the glove and test
Steps:
1. Strip the last inch and a half off the two 10 in wires and connect them to a multimeter to see if it is giving off any voltage. In the photo mine is only giving off 254v because my battery is dieing.
2. Attatch it to the top of the wrist of the glove with a few rubber bands.
3. Cut the 2 wires so that when you put the glove on they will run an inch longer then your middle finger, and an inch longer then your thumb.
4. Wrap aluminum foil around the middle finger and thumb with the wires underneath each. Secure the foil and wires with some electric tape.
5. Congradulations you are done, pat yourself on the back, just not with the gloved hand.
Operation: To get the constant voltage, just turn on the main power switch, the indicator LED should illuminate and a steady supply of voltage will be supplied to the fingers. To charge it flip the other switch and push the button, you should hear the same high pitched charging noise that a disposable camera would make when it is charging. In a few seconds the capacitor should be fully charged and the fingertips will pack quite a punch.
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
* your skin has resistance and can prevent lethal amps but don't take that chance