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This slingshot is heavily based on a slingshot outlined by Joerg Sprave in the video "How to make a power steel slingshot with common tools". I have, however, slightly modified his design to simplify construction and allow for a later upgrade to add a whisker biscuit, which will allow you to shoot arrows with this slingshot (given heavy enough bands - See Joerg's videos to see this type of thing in action).

DISCLAIMER: This slingshot can handle very powerful heavy bands, and therefore this can be a very dangerous slingshot. It can injure and probably kill. DO NOT point this thing at any people or pets. This goes double when the whisker biscuit attachment is added. I take no responsibility for what you do with this thing once you build it.

The above being said....I just might try it out shooting paintballs at some point in the near future...

Step 1: Step 1: Materials

Materials
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2 - Simpson Strong Tie T-Plates (With an extra hole drilled in the center)
1 - Hyper-Velocity Slingshot Band Replacement Kit (This was out of convenience...for more power use Theraband Gold or Black)
4 - 3/8" Hex Nuts
4 - 3/8" Flat Washers
1 - 5"? Carriage Bolt (Pick a bold that fits your hand nicely)
2 - 3/8 x 4" Eye Bolts (Sold with nut attached...so really you need 6 nuts total if these are not present)
1 Roll - Black Duck Tape
A few feet of light twine/string (optional)
Krazy Glue (optional)
20 Gauge Hardware Wire

Tools
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Most of my tools are in the city at my brother's place since I normally have no use for tools at my apartment. I keep a small amount around just in case, so for this project, I actually did not use all the appropriate tools. I will outline what I used and what should have been used.

9/16" Wrench (Should use 3/8")
Adjustable pliers (Ideally use another 3/8" wrench)
Wire cutters
Needlenose Pliers

Step 2: Step 2: Attach Handle

Screw a nut as far onto the carriage bold as you can, and then put a washer on the bolt.

Run the bolt through the center hole of the plate, as shown.

Place another washer and nut on the bolt, and tighten.

I later cut the excess threads off the top of the handle.

Step 3: Step 3: Add the Posts

Decide how high you want your posts to sit. Keep in mind the higher the posts, the more the strain on your wrist. If you do not plan on cutting off the bottoms of the eyebolts, then you do not need to worry too much about this right now, and you can experiment to find a height you like.

The key thing here is to have the first nuts on the eyebolts at the same height. Once this is done, put the eyebolts through the plate from the top, and place a washer and nut on the other end of the bolt. Make sure the open part of the "loop" is facing away from the direction you will be pulling. Tighten.

I then put some Krazy Glue in the threads to, hopefully, make them less likely to loosen up.

Step 4: Step 4: Add Your Band

Bend the end of the band around the eyebolt.

Stretch the end and band together, and twist the wire around the bands.

This is not an ideal way to do this, but I could not figure out how to do a proper constriction knot, and I didn't have any appropriate strong string to tie these bands properly. Hopefully the wire holds up well.

For the proper way, check out constriction knots on YouTube.

Step 5: Step 5: Grip

For the grip I wound some string around the carriage bolt for 2-3 layers and helped it stick with some Krazy Glue. I then put about 5 layers of Duck Tape on the grip, over the string. This thickened the grip a bit, and made it nicer to hold onto. In the future I may upgrade the grip using something like what Mr. Sprave showed in the video I linked at the beginning.

Step 6: Further Developments

When I get around to adding the whisker biscuit, I will update this instructable with the how to.

So, stay tuned, and thanks for reading!
It's unbelievable that anyone would use wire to hold bands on. First of all, it WILL eventually cut the bands and they will break. Secondly, when they do break, there's a good chance that wire will come back and strike you in the face and/or eyes. Anyone with even the most basic knowledge of slingshots knows that you never ever use wire. Rubber bands work perfectly and work better than anything else. A constrictor knot doesn't even apply to slingshots even though it's the easiest knot in the world to tie with numerous pictures of it available. "Over the top" is the method used to tie bands or tubing. Even commercially made slingshots that use tubing don't use a constrictor knot. They simply cut a small hole in the tubing and run the other end back through that hole for a clean look.
<p>&quot;A constrictor knot doesn't even apply to slingshots&quot;</p><p>except that Joerg Sprave, who has built around 4 gazillion slingshots recommends using constrictor knots.</p><p>&quot;Over the top&quot; is the method used to tie bands or tubing&quot;<br>Well, yes, sometimes, other wise tubing is looped through an eye, like Dankung slings, or bands shooting TTF (through the fork)<br></p>
<p>Great idea but I'm thinking that the handle needs to be longer so that there is more distance between your hand and the ends of those bolts hanging out under the T-plate. Either that or you might want to trim off the ends with a bolt cutter and put some rubber caps or plastic-dip the ends of them. For people like myself with bigger hands and a serious grip, it could cause problems with getting scuffed or cut up.</p>
<p>Why does it have to be a T shaped plate? Couldn't it just be a strait shaped plate?</p>
As stated in the instructions, I used a T plate to accommodate a whisker biscuit if I decided to do that down the road. I didn't end up doing that. A straight player would work fine.
I have a heat cured/cooked muscadine vine for the handle that is virtually indestructible to build for grandkids. I wouldn't change anything else. Great job!
<p>Nice! Do you have a list of the cost on parts?</p>
What size of t-plates did you use?
They were standard decking t plates. roughly 5x5 if I remember correctly.
Sweet thank you
<p>Did you consider using cable ties?</p>
<p>I didn't at the time, but they would probably work well.</p>
Nice! Do you have a list of the cost on parts?
I didn't put a price list on as I was writing this because prices both change over time and differ depending on where you are in the world.
<p>Thats wonderful...</p>
<p>great</p>
<p>great</p>
<p>super</p>
<p>great</p>
<p>I see how the author replied, which is reasonable given his hobby of arrowshooting..</p>
I see how the author replied, which is reasonable given his hobby of arrowshooting..
I have built several of these and they are killers. Please be very careful.
I see how the author replied, which is reasonable given his hobby of arrowshooting..
I have built several of these and they are killers. Please be very careful. Great it as you would a loaded handgun. Frankly there is not to much difference. Always wear eye protection. All of that being said it is a lot of fun. Www WwwQ
just so you know it is a really bad idea to use wire becuase when the bands break come loose which they will the wire can snap ack in your face and it will really hurt especially if you put strong bands on it.
Ass a better, more comfortable handle use a shift knob from auto store <br>
In response to those asking about how it worked out. I tested it with paintballs this past weekend, while on a camping trip. I found that it shot really straight most of the time. A couple times I somehow managed to hit my hand or the section where the biscuit will go with the paintball though. These issues were likely due to bad form on my part though, as my friends were able to shoot it very well and accurately. The greasyness from the paintballs (they are basically oil and colour, for those who don't know) made the slingshot very greasy, which revealed a flaw in my metal twist for holding the band. The oil allowed one of these to come loose and I got hit in the face by the band. As such, I would highly recommend using the constriction knot method, and if you are going to shoot paintballs, make sure you have good shooting form first. <br> <br>Have a good one.
you could use a L shaped bracket and mount the eye bolts at the ends and put the grip at the meet of the L
I made a slingbow a few years ago for my brother in-law with a store bought slingshot and it works good. Mounting the wisker biscuit farther back may or may not throw off your aim. What I would do is use a corner L bracket on the center bolt post to mount the biscuit between the eye bolts. The back part of the T frame I would maybe mount something to extend it to give more support for your wrist, and maybe even a little bit of padding to keep from rubbing/cutting your arm. For the handle I'd suggest you wrap the bolt with paracord. That gives a nice grip and gives you some extra cordage if you ever needed it. <br> <br>This has given me much to think about for my next one. I can see a trip to the hardware store in my future. I might have to make something off this design and show some other ideas I got floating in my head now. Keep up the good work! I hope to see more and any mods you make.
Thank you, I enjoyed this and it's a clever, neat idea.
Very clever, but why T shaped base?
I see how the author replied, which is reasonable given his hobby of arrowshooting.. Additionally, the long 'T' leg that will rest on your wrist will serve to counter-force the tendency of the bands, stretched, to twist one's wrist up and back .. <br>All good s'shots have such a 'counter-force' leg .. <br> <br>Now, i think all here might enjoy this video: <br> <br>http://maniacworld.com/greatest-sling-shot-man-ever.html
How amazing the aim of that guy! Luckily I never had much, because otherwise they would have killed a lot of birdies. Once I gave them one, and I felt so sorry and ashamed that I never again aimed birds.
The original design I was working from was straight across, rather than a T. Lately, I have been looking at the idea of sling bows as a compact way of shooting arrows (I'm into archery, and the case for my compound bow is quite large). When I was thinking about how to go about making this slingshot, I figured that I should use a T instead of a straight piece so that I could, later, add a whisker biscuit and heavier bands to turn this into a slingbow. The hole left over would facilitate this. Whereas many sling bows mount the whisker biscuit between the fork, I saw, while watching the videos linked above, a great idea for sling bows. Rather than mounting at the fork, mount the biscuit further back, and this allows for a longer draw, and therefore more power. <br> <br>So that's kind of the long answer as to why I used T plates. Sorry, I have a tendency to be a bit verbose. haha.
I think you answered my question in your answer to rim. a whisker biscuit is some kind of arrow guide?
Yea. See the picture in step 6.
I of course saw the picture you posted but having no idea what it was, seeing it out of context really didn't help much. When we are familiar with something we assume that others will understand as well. My only archery experience was 35 yrs ago in high school where we used what seemed like old english longbows made from fiberglass, so even seeing a picture of a &quot;whisker biscuit&quot; in use still doesn't tell me what it is or why it's used. <br> <br> Sling shots I have more experience with and have made several over the years, this one looks amazingly simple and very sturdy. Have you considered carving a handle/grip from wood or plastic and epoxying a short threaded rod to attach it?
I'm not very good at carving, but that would certainly look nice and if you were looking at building this, and are good at carving, I highly encourage you to go with the wood. Sounds like to would both look and feel great. <br> <br>My plans for an upgrade to the grip, somewhere down the line, include potentially moulding something out of clay and baking it on, or maybe something like a pipe wrap. <br> <br>Has anyone tried using sugru for something like this? I've never seen the stuff in person, so I am not sure if it would be good to mould around the handle for this purpose?
Here's an example of one mounted on a bow. (Just grabbed it off Google) <br> <br>http://www.bowhunting.com/content/modules/rhino.publisher/files/uploads/bowhunting/arrow-rests/whisker-biscuit.jpg <br> <br>
Thanks, I now understand. It is a good idea. <br> <br>
just a tip, you shoudlnt wear duct tape on the grip, it migth cause friction burn, instead you are probably better of with the string alone or you could use those tennis rackets grip tapes.. those are awsome.. i use them on my car's steering wheel.. so comfy!
or you could use some plasti-dip! a nice rubberized coating would be awesome and look profesional
plast dip looks awesome.. have never seen it being sold here in BRAZIL, but would definetly love to get some, it would really help on my dune buggy creation!
Great idea!
The duct tape was a quick temporary grip, as I was building this for use this weekend. When I get around to upgrading it I'll post the updates.
great idea, <br> <br>how is t he accuracy?
Testing this weekend. So we'll see...

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Bio: I enjoy building things. There is something quite satisfying about making something from various parts, rather than just buying it. Also, I tend to be ... More »
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