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Step 4: Now the rest of the pieces

Once the sides are together, now is the time to cut out the remaining parts. Now measure the length of each white line and cut out that length, and then make it by 24" inches.


Look at very top of the cabinet. Measure the length of the white line that was drawn earlier. My length was 11-1/2” inches, so the piece is going to be 11-1/2” inches by 24 inches
There is an example of all the pieces: Make sure you measure every pieces don’t just base it off my drawings.


A few special notes: (Read this before cutting out all the pieces)
• The drop drawer top edge needs to be cut at an angle. To do this, just adjust the angle plate on the jigsaw and cut it just like before. The drop drawer needs to be trimmed a little bit the in 24” inch way so it doesn’t grind and scratch the sides.

• The speaker mount pieces are also at an angle to make a flat face for the marquee to set on. To make the speaker holes you can drill a hole then cut out a circle or you can purchase a saw hole bit and cut out a 2” inch hole.

• The front bottom needs to extend far enough to cover the bottom piece, so the bottom piece end grain does not show.
(this and the control panel are one of the few pieces that extend over the with line.)

• Route the front of the slide drawer and the front of the control panel pieces, and apply t- molding.

• The drawer slide piece needs to be cut to 23” inches instead of 24” to accommodate the drawer slides.

When I cut out these pieces I would cut a long strip that was 24” inches wide across and then slice it up into the right size.
There is an example below of a long strip being cut to several pieces.



<p>Thanks for this instructable. It was an AWESOME project. I've converted all measurements to the metric system. I'll upload a bunch of pictures, as a picture is worth a thousand words. Feel free to ask me anything.</p><p>Some modifications:</p><p>- The whole arcade is covered with DC-Fix adhesive film (Blackwood). Much cheaper and nicer method than MDF :)</p><p>- Control Panel has a plexiglass sheet installed on top of the plywood. I also laid out some printed arcade figured in between the plywood and the plexiglass. Yay.</p><p>- T-molding wasn't available in my country (Finland) so I used a &quot;list&quot; called &quot;reunanauha&quot; in finnish. It's available in a 10m roll. No idea what the english term is. You basically use an iron to &quot;install&quot; it and the heat will make it stick to the plywood edges.</p><p>- LED light strip is installed on the marquee edges for extra &quot;light effect&quot; :-)</p><p>...and probably more modifications as well, just ask if you wonder :)</p>
Hi would like your plans in metric, you did a great job! <br><br>Would want to use a bigger screen in one am planning tho
<p>Yeah, another thing. I didn't draw the &quot;white line&quot; 1-1/8&rdquo; inch (converts to 29mm) from the edge. I left it at 25mm, which was a good call. It would look good even at 20mm, but at 29mm the &quot;lip&quot; around the whole cabinet is too deep in my opinion.</p>
<p>Sure. I took some pictures of my own notes. Hope they are readable/viewable.</p><p>&quot;Skiva 1&quot; means plywood sheet 1 and &quot;Skiva 2&quot; means plywood sheet 2. These &quot;skiva-pictures&quot; are not including measurements and are just ment as an overview from where/how I cut my pieces.</p><p>The pic with all the pieces has my final measurements in it. (There were some last minute changes during the end of the project, therefore there are some changes in the pic also). The neon mark was just a note for myself so I would remember to cut that line in a 45 degree angle.</p><p>The side layout picture has the &quot;real&quot; measurements written in the pic, and the measurements I had to modify are those in the parenthesis'. I once again had to modify the measurements because the plywood sheet length and width didn't match exactly when converting to the metric system. (The EU version of the plywood is exactly 2400mm x 1200mm, and the US version is a bit longer and wider). This is no big deal however, just make sure that the height on the front are kept up until the control panel (99cm). Also use 18mm for marquee, and adjust the remaining (&quot;monitor area&quot;) according to the plywood height.</p><p>As a side note I can say that my Arcade setup has a 20&quot; monitor, pretty much the largest 4:3 available. (I have access to old ones/spare ones, so this was the perfect size for me). </p><p>I'm running the whole thing from a Raspberry Pi 3, with the RetroPie distribution. Works like a charm.</p>
I have a dxf file with measures for any CAD software email me if you want the file
<p>Would love a copy if still available please. Many thanks.</p>
<p>would love to get a hold of that file! thanks!</p>
<p>thanks for the tips. Here's mine, it's near complete.... </p><p> I rounded my edging and varied the measurements - but the ground to control panel measurement you supplied is perfect. I put barn doors on the back for access and use a BT keyboard mouse. Also the control panel I velcro'd into place - so I can upgrade to a track ball Easily without the need to get heavy duty. Using black melamine is a superb idea. </p><p>Such a great instructable!</p>
<p>This is amazing! However here's an even easier design (easier but not as classic looking) if anyone is interested:<br><br>https://www.pinterest.com/castyness/arcade-cabinet/</p>
Thanks man it was easy
<p>Thanks for the instructions. Great place to start. I made mine and I'm still adding to it. </p>
<p>First Arcade Cabinet Built, running Gameex,</p><p>Took Awhile to build, not the handiest person with tools, but decided to give it a go, looks pretty good for first attempt, a few blemishes, but bring back memories from the old days of games If anyone has the plans on autocad can you pm me,</p>
<p>Looks pretty sweet. I especially like the Donkey Kong decorations you've put on it. I'm wondering, what type of wood did you use and where did you get it?</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>Nice job. How did you 'attach' the monitor bezel?</p>
<p>I got stumped on how to attach it, so i just used a bit a super glue on each corner and attached it to the plexi glass, thats why you see the dark small black stains on the top of the bezel, </p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. Also curious, did you use the poster board approach from the instructions? At least in the pic you posted it looked good.</p>
<p>Yes i used the poster board, i tried cardboard but didnt look good, so i tried the black poster board and it looked so much better, and if you make a mistake, poster board is cheap as</p>
<p>One last question - where did you get the plexiglass for the bezel? How much did it cost? I was looking at homedepot.com and it was more expensive than I was expecting.</p>
<p>My Friend got me the plexiglass from his work, but when i was looking around it was about $30-40 at acrylicplastics for the size i wanted, cheapest way is going to hardware store and just buying a sheet and the scoring it out yourself, but its a lot more work</p>
<p>Used these instructions to make a full size arcade, came out great. </p>
<p>I like the blue Tron colors you've chosen. But I have a question for you. Did you use the same wood that was used in this instructables page? If so, where did you buy it? I'm just trying to gather tips. Thanks! :)</p>
<p>how did you end up doing the monitor benzel? how did you attach it to the plexiglass?</p>
<p>I'm building one of these right now, and Just wanted to leave some suggestions:</p><p>For the parts, buy SANWA buttons and JLF (the stick), this is the best japanese brand, and most pro fighting game players use them, I have 3 sets of them and regret nothing.</p><p>For the controller PCB, you can buy the multi console cthulhu made by toodles that will work with pretty much any video game console + pc after everything is plugged in. You can alternatively use the PC and PS3 PCB sold on ebay. I have used both and they work great.</p>
Thanks for the instructable, I am almost done with mine based mostly on your drawings, used 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4&quot; melamine from Menards $29 each. Ordered the controls and Tmolding from groovygamegear, cut the melamine out on a CNC router, I have the cad drawings laid out on 49x97&quot; sheet (size of the melamine) if anybody wants them.
<p>Just wondering do you still have the cad drawings laying around, would love to have them </p><p>thanks</p>
hey it looks great ( you just made my week)<br><br>out of curiosity what is the table size of your cnc machine. i was also wondering how well the 3/4 th inch melamine works. i live on a third floor and didn't want to pick up such a heavy cabinet, but I bet it is more sturdy using the 3/4th. the speaker holes look amazing I wish I did the same thing. <br><br>it look amazing i hope it brings you lots of enjoyment if you have any questions feel free to ask! :)
The CNC is a 5'x10' machine at work, I used the 3/4&quot; because that's what they had in stock, but it worked great. very heavy yes, next time I would add wheels to the bottom, also I made the bottom door swing out and I will have some USB ports in the bottom of the monitor cover acrylic. I should get the buttons/joysticks on Wednesday. I'll be sure to post finished pictures when I am done.
same here. i also used 3/4 inch. Heavy.
Dw I see you used a 20&quot;
What size monitor did you use
<p>what was the mame menu you used it is very cool </p><p>and if you would like to remove all the windows xp logos i can send you a email on how to do it.</p><p>i am making a mame arcade just waiting the controlers </p>
Thanks for this great idea. i finished mine at the end of last year. it turned out to be really cool and is way fun to play
i ended up using mala though cause i couldnt figure out hyperspin. Plus my computer inside is kinda slow so mala is a little easier on its brain. lol
Thank you, uitechclub, for making this instructable for us. The way you broke the steps down was very clear and easy to follow. Mistablik and I had a great time making one.
That is an awesome build. What version of the Mario rom do you have on the screen?
Hey there, if you ever did find those CNC plans, I'd love to take a look at them. <br> <br>I'm starting my build and got word that I may have access to a CNC machine, and specs would be awesome to have. <br> <br>Thanks!
I would love the CNC Router drawings!
Hey, ill try to look it up but i have been moving quite a bit. What format do you want them in?.stl, .dxf, etc.... <br> <br>also ask jthroop he CNC his whole Cabinet, he should have some files.
Thanks for the plans, I just started my two days ago, here is the progress so far!
I wanted to make sure I thanked you for sharing your pictures. I really appreciate it.
Fantastic design! I just got approval from my Electrical Engineering Department to make a pair of these cabinets as recruiting tools. The only question I have is were you able to save enough mdf to make a back panel or is it open on the back?
That is fantastic news!!! I built the last arcade as a recruiting tool for our department as well. <br> <br>To answer you question quickly : the design only covers about 50% of the back because i ran out of mdf stock and i needed room to remove and place a whole desktop inside. ( watch the youtube video i go behind the arcade) <br> <br>If you don't mind me making suggestions: <br> <br>The problem with this design is when potential students ask questions about it, i couldn't just open up the arcade and show them. Another problem is to move this thing around was a pain in the a$$ because i had a free floating computer inside. ( what ever you do just get rid of the desktop case and mount components inside the arcade!!! ) to solve these problems i would recommend making a bartop arcade. It is smaller and cheaper on material cost. Second i would make a side plexiglass. This will allow people to see all the wiring. Pretty much think of it as a custom desktop with a screen and arcade sticks. <br> <br>and also i have really wanted someone to install these on the sides of an arcade: http://www.amazon.com/MengYi-Luminglas-GREEN-Plasma-Glass/dp/B006L7CYIC <br> <br>They are just suggestions lol. but hey if you have any questions let me know! I will reply as soon as i am able to, and i love helping with this type stuff. If you have any questions about games, emulators, front ends, or light guns. shoot me a message. <br>
Well they're finally done. Here's a link to the album. I put plexi glass windows on the side lit with LED strips. The computer was mounted to a panel in the cab and is layed out so prospective students can see all the parts. <br>http://imgur.com/a/ben8H
That is awesome, thank you for sharing this!!!! <br> <br>I am working on designing and building a claw machine game right now. Because of my new job i haven't been able to spend time on it, but this have rejuvenated my interest in finishing the project.
I am starting one of these but I am having trouble using hyperspin, I can't get Roms to open when you choose a game in the home menu.
man. i'm having the same problem. I guess to the forums I go.
this best advice i can give you is to ask on the forums in hyperspin, they are very good at getting back with request for help.
I am using blue t-molding to give it a Tron look!

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