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Step 7: Button Wiring:

Button wiring:

This might look overwhelming at first but it is in fact pretty easy. Just take it step by step.
There are two routes to having your buttons wired:

1. You can buy a ipac controller interface board, which will be a little pricy but it is a lot easier and has more buttons.

2. You can buy two 14 input usb controllers and solder each connection. This is about $30 cheaper if you have a soldering iron and glue gun already. I bought the two Usb game pads at a second hand store for $2 a piece so I went this route.

Soldering up the button interface board:
First you need some wire. I used speaker wire but you can use network cable, or regular wire.
Take apart the usb controller so it looks like the image:

This is very time consuming and requires a steady hand. The connections are very close to each other and you can’t have a wire going across both. But once you are done it feels good.
To make sure the connection works go ahead and plug it into the computer. Then go to start > control panel >devices or game controllers> then click you usb game pad controller. Right click it click game controller settings> click properties. The screen should look like captured image:


When a connection is made it lights up red. If one of the directional buttons is being pushed the axes cross hair will go that direction in the picture above I was pressing left and down at the same time.
I used a spare piece of wood to keep things in order and help make it sturdy you don’t have to do this but it does help.

As you can see once the connection were soldered on, I hot glue gun it into place then stapled the wire down so it wouldn’t move. This allows the wires to be messed with and keeps the soldered joints from breaking off.

Connecting the buttons:
Once the game pads are tested and working. Go ahead and mount them in the arcade cabinet. I mounted mine right under the monitor support piece.


Connect one end of the wire to the ground part of the micro switch and the middle tab. Example image is given:

Then slip the micro switch into the button housing.

Once you connect all you buttons you are ready to go.
Note: don’t worry about connecting the up button with the up joystick micro switch it doesn’t matter when you run an emulator, you choose what button does what function.


<p>Had som spare time so I actually wrote a blog post about the build:</p><p><a href="https://sysadminblogger.wordpress.com/arcade/" rel="nofollow">https://sysadminblogger.wordpress.com/arcade/</a></p>
<p>Thanks for this instructable. It was an AWESOME project. I've converted all measurements to the metric system. I'll upload a bunch of pictures, as a picture is worth a thousand words. Feel free to ask me anything.</p><p>Some modifications:</p><p>- The whole arcade is covered with DC-Fix adhesive film (Blackwood). Much cheaper and nicer method than MDF :)</p><p>- Control Panel has a plexiglass sheet installed on top of the plywood. I also laid out some printed arcade figured in between the plywood and the plexiglass. Yay.</p><p>- T-molding wasn't available in my country (Finland) so I used a &quot;list&quot; called &quot;reunanauha&quot; in finnish. It's available in a 10m roll. No idea what the english term is. You basically use an iron to &quot;install&quot; it and the heat will make it stick to the plywood edges.</p><p>- LED light strip is installed on the marquee edges for extra &quot;light effect&quot; :-)</p><p>...and probably more modifications as well, just ask if you wonder :)</p>
<p>Looks amazing you did a really good job thank you so much for sharing your build.</p><p>you implemented great ideas and alternatives. </p>
<p>Thanks, I take that as a great compliment coming from the author itself :)</p>
Great job!<br>Hiw many roles of dc fix did you need?
<p>Thanks! Still enjoying it :)</p><p>I used 5 rolls of dc-fix. 2x90cm (sides) and 3x67,5cm for the rest (2 could be enough depending on how much you decide to use).</p>
Hi would like your plans in metric, you did a great job! <br><br>Would want to use a bigger screen in one am planning tho
<p>Yeah, another thing. I didn't draw the &quot;white line&quot; 1-1/8&rdquo; inch (converts to 29mm) from the edge. I left it at 25mm, which was a good call. It would look good even at 20mm, but at 29mm the &quot;lip&quot; around the whole cabinet is too deep in my opinion.</p>
<p>Sure. I took some pictures of my own notes. Hope they are readable/viewable.</p><p>&quot;Skiva 1&quot; means plywood sheet 1 and &quot;Skiva 2&quot; means plywood sheet 2. These &quot;skiva-pictures&quot; are not including measurements and are just ment as an overview from where/how I cut my pieces.</p><p>The pic with all the pieces has my final measurements in it. (There were some last minute changes during the end of the project, therefore there are some changes in the pic also). The neon mark was just a note for myself so I would remember to cut that line in a 45 degree angle.</p><p>The side layout picture has the &quot;real&quot; measurements written in the pic, and the measurements I had to modify are those in the parenthesis'. I once again had to modify the measurements because the plywood sheet length and width didn't match exactly when converting to the metric system. (The EU version of the plywood is exactly 2400mm x 1200mm, and the US version is a bit longer and wider). This is no big deal however, just make sure that the height on the front are kept up until the control panel (99cm). Also use 18mm for marquee, and adjust the remaining (&quot;monitor area&quot;) according to the plywood height.</p><p>As a side note I can say that my Arcade setup has a 20&quot; monitor, pretty much the largest 4:3 available. (I have access to old ones/spare ones, so this was the perfect size for me). </p><p>I'm running the whole thing from a Raspberry Pi 3, with the RetroPie distribution. Works like a charm.</p>
<p>whats the biggest monitor you can fit into this thing? or at least what size did you use? </p>
<p>You can easily fit a modern (16:9) 24&quot; or 27&quot;. However I wanted the 4:3 retro-look so I went for the biggest 4:3 easily available. I'm using a Samsung 20&quot;, model Syncmaster 204B. I got it for free from work.</p>
<p>Thanks :)</p>
<p>monitor and tv sizes sizes come in a diagonal corner to corner size.</p><p>the max you can do is 24 inch across so you have to look at specifications of the monitor/tv. make sure not wider then 24.</p><p>There are so many choices I just get the largest I can get.</p>
<p>Thanks :)</p>
<p>I wouldn't go bigger than 24&quot; though, and the ideal size is probably 20&quot;-22&quot;.</p>
<p>wow I haven't log into this in a long time. all I have left from this project is the solidworks drawings part files. I included a link below.</p><p>I am very grateful for all the people who shared and help with the projects. </p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9PfBiQUZoKqbUJjRXJJUjBHN1k/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9PfBiQUZoKqbUJjR...</a></p>
Did you put the screws all the way through the melamine and into the inside or did you go from the inside and then part way through the melamine?
<p>I went from inside, and I used 6cm screws which were the perfect length. (The braces are 4.5cm so the rest would go through the plywood from the inside).</p>
<p>thanks</p>
<p>I mean only the braces (attached to the sides) are screwed from the inside. All the rest is screwed through the plywood from the outside (using black screws).</p>
I have a dxf file with measures for any CAD software email me if you want the file
<p>Would love a copy if still available please. Many thanks.</p>
<p>would love to get a hold of that file! thanks!</p>
<p>thanks for the tips. Here's mine, it's near complete.... </p><p> I rounded my edging and varied the measurements - but the ground to control panel measurement you supplied is perfect. I put barn doors on the back for access and use a BT keyboard mouse. Also the control panel I velcro'd into place - so I can upgrade to a track ball Easily without the need to get heavy duty. Using black melamine is a superb idea. </p><p>Such a great instructable!</p>
<p>This is amazing! However here's an even easier design (easier but not as classic looking) if anyone is interested:<br><br>https://www.pinterest.com/castyness/arcade-cabinet/</p>
Thanks man it was easy
<p>Thanks for the instructions. Great place to start. I made mine and I'm still adding to it. </p>
<p>First Arcade Cabinet Built, running Gameex,</p><p>Took Awhile to build, not the handiest person with tools, but decided to give it a go, looks pretty good for first attempt, a few blemishes, but bring back memories from the old days of games If anyone has the plans on autocad can you pm me,</p>
<p>Looks pretty sweet. I especially like the Donkey Kong decorations you've put on it. I'm wondering, what type of wood did you use and where did you get it?</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>Nice job. How did you 'attach' the monitor bezel?</p>
<p>I got stumped on how to attach it, so i just used a bit a super glue on each corner and attached it to the plexi glass, thats why you see the dark small black stains on the top of the bezel, </p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. Also curious, did you use the poster board approach from the instructions? At least in the pic you posted it looked good.</p>
<p>Yes i used the poster board, i tried cardboard but didnt look good, so i tried the black poster board and it looked so much better, and if you make a mistake, poster board is cheap as</p>
<p>One last question - where did you get the plexiglass for the bezel? How much did it cost? I was looking at homedepot.com and it was more expensive than I was expecting.</p>
<p>My Friend got me the plexiglass from his work, but when i was looking around it was about $30-40 at acrylicplastics for the size i wanted, cheapest way is going to hardware store and just buying a sheet and the scoring it out yourself, but its a lot more work</p>
<p>Used these instructions to make a full size arcade, came out great. </p>
<p>I like the blue Tron colors you've chosen. But I have a question for you. Did you use the same wood that was used in this instructables page? If so, where did you buy it? I'm just trying to gather tips. Thanks! :)</p>
<p>how did you end up doing the monitor benzel? how did you attach it to the plexiglass?</p>
<p>I'm building one of these right now, and Just wanted to leave some suggestions:</p><p>For the parts, buy SANWA buttons and JLF (the stick), this is the best japanese brand, and most pro fighting game players use them, I have 3 sets of them and regret nothing.</p><p>For the controller PCB, you can buy the multi console cthulhu made by toodles that will work with pretty much any video game console + pc after everything is plugged in. You can alternatively use the PC and PS3 PCB sold on ebay. I have used both and they work great.</p>
Thanks for the instructable, I am almost done with mine based mostly on your drawings, used 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4&quot; melamine from Menards $29 each. Ordered the controls and Tmolding from groovygamegear, cut the melamine out on a CNC router, I have the cad drawings laid out on 49x97&quot; sheet (size of the melamine) if anybody wants them.
<p>Just wondering do you still have the cad drawings laying around, would love to have them </p><p>thanks</p>
hey it looks great ( you just made my week)<br><br>out of curiosity what is the table size of your cnc machine. i was also wondering how well the 3/4 th inch melamine works. i live on a third floor and didn't want to pick up such a heavy cabinet, but I bet it is more sturdy using the 3/4th. the speaker holes look amazing I wish I did the same thing. <br><br>it look amazing i hope it brings you lots of enjoyment if you have any questions feel free to ask! :)
The CNC is a 5'x10' machine at work, I used the 3/4&quot; because that's what they had in stock, but it worked great. very heavy yes, next time I would add wheels to the bottom, also I made the bottom door swing out and I will have some USB ports in the bottom of the monitor cover acrylic. I should get the buttons/joysticks on Wednesday. I'll be sure to post finished pictures when I am done.
same here. i also used 3/4 inch. Heavy.
Dw I see you used a 20&quot;
What size monitor did you use
<p>what was the mame menu you used it is very cool </p><p>and if you would like to remove all the windows xp logos i can send you a email on how to do it.</p><p>i am making a mame arcade just waiting the controlers </p>
Thanks for this great idea. i finished mine at the end of last year. it turned out to be really cool and is way fun to play

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