Step 7: Button wiring:

Button wiring:

This might look overwhelming at first but it is in fact pretty easy. Just take it step by step.
There are two routes to having your buttons wired:

1. You can buy a ipac controller interface board, which will be a little pricy but it is a lot easier and has more buttons.

2. You can buy two 14 input usb controllers and solder each connection. This is about $30 cheaper if you have a soldering iron and glue gun already. I bought the two Usb game pads at a second hand store for $2 a piece so I went this route.

Soldering up the button interface board:
First you need some wire. I used speaker wire but you can use network cable, or regular wire.
Take apart the usb controller so it looks like the image:

This is very time consuming and requires a steady hand. The connections are very close to each other and you can’t have a wire going across both. But once you are done it feels good.
To make sure the connection works go ahead and plug it into the computer. Then go to start > control panel >devices or game controllers> then click you usb game pad controller. Right click it click game controller settings> click properties. The screen should look like captured image:

When a connection is made it lights up red. If one of the directional buttons is being pushed the axes cross hair will go that direction in the picture above I was pressing left and down at the same time.
I used a spare piece of wood to keep things in order and help make it sturdy you don’t have to do this but it does help.

As you can see once the connection were soldered on, I hot glue gun it into place then stapled the wire down so it wouldn’t move. This allows the wires to be messed with and keeps the soldered joints from breaking off.

Connecting the buttons:
Once the game pads are tested and working. Go ahead and mount them in the arcade cabinet. I mounted mine right under the monitor support piece.

Connect one end of the wire to the ground part of the micro switch and the middle tab. Example image is given:

Then slip the micro switch into the button housing.

Once you connect all you buttons you are ready to go.
Note: don’t worry about connecting the up button with the up joystick micro switch it doesn’t matter when you run an emulator, you choose what button does what function.

<p>thanks for the tips. Here's mine, it's near complete.... </p><p> I rounded my edging and varied the measurements - but the ground to control panel measurement you supplied is perfect. I put barn doors on the back for access and use a BT keyboard mouse. Also the control panel I velcro'd into place - so I can upgrade to a track ball Easily without the need to get heavy duty. Using black melamine is a superb idea. </p><p>Such a great instructable!</p>
I have a dxf file with measures for any CAD software email me if you want the file
<p>would love to get a hold of that file! thanks!</p>
<p>This is amazing! However here's an even easier design (easier but not as classic looking) if anyone is interested:<br><br>https://www.pinterest.com/castyness/arcade-cabinet/</p>
Thanks man it was easy
<p>Thanks for the instructions. Great place to start. I made mine and I'm still adding to it. </p>
<p>First Arcade Cabinet Built, running Gameex,</p><p>Took Awhile to build, not the handiest person with tools, but decided to give it a go, looks pretty good for first attempt, a few blemishes, but bring back memories from the old days of games If anyone has the plans on autocad can you pm me,</p>
<p>Looks pretty sweet. I especially like the Donkey Kong decorations you've put on it. I'm wondering, what type of wood did you use and where did you get it?</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>i used 16mm mdf, then used oil paint, undercoat it first, any hardware store has it, if ur in Australia go to bunnings I got it for 30 dollars a sheet, U only need 2 sheets one for each side, careful when cutting mdf makes alot of mess and dust,</p>
<p>Nice job. How did you 'attach' the monitor bezel?</p>
<p>I got stumped on how to attach it, so i just used a bit a super glue on each corner and attached it to the plexi glass, thats why you see the dark small black stains on the top of the bezel, </p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. Also curious, did you use the poster board approach from the instructions? At least in the pic you posted it looked good.</p>
<p>Yes i used the poster board, i tried cardboard but didnt look good, so i tried the black poster board and it looked so much better, and if you make a mistake, poster board is cheap as</p>
<p>One last question - where did you get the plexiglass for the bezel? How much did it cost? I was looking at homedepot.com and it was more expensive than I was expecting.</p>
<p>My Friend got me the plexiglass from his work, but when i was looking around it was about $30-40 at acrylicplastics for the size i wanted, cheapest way is going to hardware store and just buying a sheet and the scoring it out yourself, but its a lot more work</p>
<p>Used these instructions to make a full size arcade, came out great. </p>
<p>I like the blue Tron colors you've chosen. But I have a question for you. Did you use the same wood that was used in this instructables page? If so, where did you buy it? I'm just trying to gather tips. Thanks! :)</p>
<p>how did you end up doing the monitor benzel? how did you attach it to the plexiglass?</p>
<p>I'm building one of these right now, and Just wanted to leave some suggestions:</p><p>For the parts, buy SANWA buttons and JLF (the stick), this is the best japanese brand, and most pro fighting game players use them, I have 3 sets of them and regret nothing.</p><p>For the controller PCB, you can buy the multi console cthulhu made by toodles that will work with pretty much any video game console + pc after everything is plugged in. You can alternatively use the PC and PS3 PCB sold on ebay. I have used both and they work great.</p>
Thanks for the instructable, I am almost done with mine based mostly on your drawings, used 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4&quot; melamine from Menards $29 each. Ordered the controls and Tmolding from groovygamegear, cut the melamine out on a CNC router, I have the cad drawings laid out on 49x97&quot; sheet (size of the melamine) if anybody wants them.
<p>Just wondering do you still have the cad drawings laying around, would love to have them </p><p>thanks</p>
hey it looks great ( you just made my week)<br><br>out of curiosity what is the table size of your cnc machine. i was also wondering how well the 3/4 th inch melamine works. i live on a third floor and didn't want to pick up such a heavy cabinet, but I bet it is more sturdy using the 3/4th. the speaker holes look amazing I wish I did the same thing. <br><br>it look amazing i hope it brings you lots of enjoyment if you have any questions feel free to ask! :)
The CNC is a 5'x10' machine at work, I used the 3/4&quot; because that's what they had in stock, but it worked great. very heavy yes, next time I would add wheels to the bottom, also I made the bottom door swing out and I will have some USB ports in the bottom of the monitor cover acrylic. I should get the buttons/joysticks on Wednesday. I'll be sure to post finished pictures when I am done.
same here. i also used 3/4 inch. Heavy.
Dw I see you used a 20&quot;
What size monitor did you use
<p>what was the mame menu you used it is very cool </p><p>and if you would like to remove all the windows xp logos i can send you a email on how to do it.</p><p>i am making a mame arcade just waiting the controlers </p>
Thanks for this great idea. i finished mine at the end of last year. it turned out to be really cool and is way fun to play
i ended up using mala though cause i couldnt figure out hyperspin. Plus my computer inside is kinda slow so mala is a little easier on its brain. lol
Thank you, uitechclub, for making this instructable for us. The way you broke the steps down was very clear and easy to follow. Mistablik and I had a great time making one.
That is an awesome build. What version of the Mario rom do you have on the screen?
Hey there, if you ever did find those CNC plans, I'd love to take a look at them. <br> <br>I'm starting my build and got word that I may have access to a CNC machine, and specs would be awesome to have. <br> <br>Thanks!
I would love the CNC Router drawings!
Hey, ill try to look it up but i have been moving quite a bit. What format do you want them in?.stl, .dxf, etc.... <br> <br>also ask jthroop he CNC his whole Cabinet, he should have some files.
Thanks for the plans, I just started my two days ago, here is the progress so far!
I wanted to make sure I thanked you for sharing your pictures. I really appreciate it.
Fantastic design! I just got approval from my Electrical Engineering Department to make a pair of these cabinets as recruiting tools. The only question I have is were you able to save enough mdf to make a back panel or is it open on the back?
That is fantastic news!!! I built the last arcade as a recruiting tool for our department as well. <br> <br>To answer you question quickly : the design only covers about 50% of the back because i ran out of mdf stock and i needed room to remove and place a whole desktop inside. ( watch the youtube video i go behind the arcade) <br> <br>If you don't mind me making suggestions: <br> <br>The problem with this design is when potential students ask questions about it, i couldn't just open up the arcade and show them. Another problem is to move this thing around was a pain in the a$$ because i had a free floating computer inside. ( what ever you do just get rid of the desktop case and mount components inside the arcade!!! ) to solve these problems i would recommend making a bartop arcade. It is smaller and cheaper on material cost. Second i would make a side plexiglass. This will allow people to see all the wiring. Pretty much think of it as a custom desktop with a screen and arcade sticks. <br> <br>and also i have really wanted someone to install these on the sides of an arcade: http://www.amazon.com/MengYi-Luminglas-GREEN-Plasma-Glass/dp/B006L7CYIC <br> <br>They are just suggestions lol. but hey if you have any questions let me know! I will reply as soon as i am able to, and i love helping with this type stuff. If you have any questions about games, emulators, front ends, or light guns. shoot me a message. <br>
Well they're finally done. Here's a link to the album. I put plexi glass windows on the side lit with LED strips. The computer was mounted to a panel in the cab and is layed out so prospective students can see all the parts. <br>http://imgur.com/a/ben8H
That is awesome, thank you for sharing this!!!! <br> <br>I am working on designing and building a claw machine game right now. Because of my new job i haven't been able to spend time on it, but this have rejuvenated my interest in finishing the project.
I am starting one of these but I am having trouble using hyperspin, I can't get Roms to open when you choose a game in the home menu.
man. i'm having the same problem. I guess to the forums I go.
this best advice i can give you is to ask on the forums in hyperspin, they are very good at getting back with request for help.
I am using blue t-molding to give it a Tron look!
Nice cab, I was wondering is the line going down the centre of the control panel a sticker ?
Yes it is. it is an outline for a larger vinyl sticker.
nearly there man! up and working but need to finish the front. found some really cheap controller boards on ebay from china.. they work great!! and no soldering, all slip on.
this is a great instructable. this is as far as i've gotten so far haha. thank you!
Looks good! I really wanted to do a white cabinet. I really want to make a white one. Do you know what color of trimming you want. Also if you have any questions at all let me know.

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