I needed a table in my oddly shaped kitchen that could act as additional counter space, a place to eat, store kitchen stools and general spot to put stuff on, all while being 16"x52". Given the odd dimensions and my limited budget, my only option was to make one. Also, since my little apartment lacks a garage or outdoor space, I needed a easy option that didn't require a wood shop. 

I've been seeing reclaimed wood furniture everywhere, but a $2000 table is pretty far out of reach, so my solution uses copper pipe, epoxy, and reclaimed wood for around $120. After I made it, I was super stoked and made a side cart that could fit under the table that was another $100 or so. I decided not to solder the pipe to keep a consistent color. Also so I wouldn't have to learn how to solder copper pipe. 

What you'll need (in short)
- Copper pipe and fittings
- Wood
- Epoxy

- Power drill

Full Supply List for the 16"x53" table:
- 3/4" Copper pipe (three 10' and one 5')
They come in 10' lengths and 5' lengths. The 10' is cheaper per foot and I got the pipe cutter at the same time then cut the long ones in the parking lot to fit them into the car.
- 3/4" Copper Tee fittings (10)
- 3/4" Copper pipe ends (4)
- 5 minute epoxy (2)
- Paper plates for mixing epoxy (at least 5)
- Stir sticks to mix epoxy
- 7/8" Butterfly drill bit
- Pipe cutter

It's smaller than you think and you can get one in the plumbing aisle for $7
- Wood (any type you like cut to 16"x53") 
I went to Building REsources in SF and got some old floor boards that I scrubbed the heck out of. They kindly cut the boards to 53" for me. The floor boards worked great because they have fantastic character, but also the tongue and groove helped keep them together. If you're using slats of any kind, you'll also needthree pieces of wood at 15" and screws to keep the pieces together. I also looked around for used copper pipe but most of that is sold for scrap metal before it gets a chance at upcycling.   

- Copper tacks
- Wood stain, paint, clear coat, or whatever you'd like to use to finish the wood
- Mask or respirator if you're using super stinky stuff to finish the wood

Step 1: Drawing Out the Design

Draw up the dimensions of the table. If you want a tall skinny bar like I made, my specs are below. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't do the X bars under the table top, but just straight across the front and back. If you're going for something completely different there are a couple things to keep in mind. 

1. Each Tee joint will add 3/4". For example, you start with a 20" piece of pipe, cut it into two 10" pieces and attach them back together with a tee joint. The full length is now 20.75"

2. When you attach the base to the table top, you'll drill into the wood to fit the pipes into place. Be sure to consider that into your final dimensions. 

3. Don't forget that the base of your table needs to be smaller than the top. I know that's really basic. But someone, I won't say who, may have had to recut some pipe after forgetting that. I did however end up with a lovely pile of soon to be copper rings from the resizing effort. 
<p>Very nice design, I love the texture of the copper and reclaimed wood. Thank you for sharing.</p>
<p>I have made a concrete table top for a coffee table. Do you think this type of table base would be sturdy enough to hold that kind of weight? Thanks!</p>
<p>Another option for connecting the copper pipe frame to the wood that still allows interchangeable tops are the clamps used to hold the pipes to your homes joists. They look a little like my crude sketch. The screws would follow the direction of the arrow into the bottom wood tabletop. They are really cheap and would do the job. This would work well with the perimeter configuration you described. The short sides could be connected with an elbow to have that pipe run along the bottom of the wood. I hope this all makes sense.</p>
<p>Silly, you could have used flux, solder and a burner. The flux sucks the solder right up so you can't see the connection. It's really not that hard. Overall, you have inspired me and have already been looking at Lowe's copper pipes. I see lots of projects ahead. Thanks a lot!</p>
<p>Thanks for the inspiration.</p>
I third, fourth or whatever the number is up to on learning to solder. A simple Bernzomatic kit is inexpensive. I predict that anyone who discovers how easy it is to solder copper plumbing joints and like the look of copper will go absolutely nuts looking for projects to build.
Did you use the thin wall copper pipe (type M) or the thick wall (type L)? Also how sturdy are the tables? <br> <br>also you got my vote for the &quot;I could make that&quot;
Thanks for the vote! I used the thiner pipe of the two available at the store, but I'm not sure of the letter. The little table is pretty dern sturdy, but the larger one, while fine for a side bar, wouldn't be a great work bench unless you change the cross bar configuration and/or pipe size. If I were to do it again, I'd probably do the below config. Good luck on your project!
Nice work! <br>I would suggest people try soldering the copper pipe. It is pretty easy to do and is a useful skill if you have any minor plumbing things to fix or update. You would need to buy a propane torch, but you can find those for cheap at the hardware store. And the torch is useful for many things like lighting charcoal, a campfire, or a manly cigar ;-)
Great idea, thanks for the post.-- a note about patinas- if you don't fancy the pinkish fresh color, you can wait till it gets to a burnished color you do like and lacquer it at that point. if it gets to dark, you can always use copper polish to start over with the clean copper. I use clear furniture paste wax to slow the oxidation process. that way you get to keep the light, bright colors longer and still have the chance to clean it all the way back to very light or let it go into the dark rich colors of the patina. copper is most forgiving.
Thanks for the tip. That's helpful.
good job! I ove that copper table .It's very cool.
I love that drawing!
I hope you clear-coated the copper tubing, because it will tarnish pretty quick. Nice job tho.
Very nice. I have to second Kevanf1 re: soldering. It is dead simple and, once you have the hang of it, you'll get just a hint of the solder at the joints giving a bit of a counterpoint to the copper.
It seems pretty straightforward. I'm not super keen on the look, but I'll give it a go if I do another project like this one. Thanks!
Awesome project, and very nicely explained!
Very nice and original. The for posting this!
I just put a water line into my garage on Saturday. The new copper pipe and fittings were so beautiful. I was thinking what a shame it is that these shiny things dull and lose their shine. This is a GREAT idea to make beautiful furniture from copper which when polished and clear coated will stay beautiful for a long long time. Thanks for the idea!
Nice job, well done. I am always surprised that people don't make more things out of copper pipe. One can make a very nice frame work to go around a bed that looks just like a four poster bed. Easy to make using the same principles but using larger sized bore of pipe. ! inch or the metric equivalent is good for this. It's a bit pricey but a heck of a lot cheaper than buying from a shop :) <br> <br>Oh, soldering. Very, very easy, honestly. The trick is to use steel wool and clean your copper until it actually looks pink. Then make sure you smear some soldering flux on it (I use the stuff that looks like brown petroleum jelly). For this sort of work your joints don't need to be watertight but it's good practice if they are, in case you ever have a plumbing problem (I used to be a plumber).
We have been planning a similar project for our bathroom with a wooden shelf under the countertop and a copper bowl for the sink. The wood won't be rustic, though, but more finished
That sounds beautiful. Hope you post it when it's done!
Copper is so beautiful it breaks my heart. I remember when it used to be cheap! voted. voted.
Thanks for the vote!
A tip on the wheels: You can get a dowel that is just a tiny bit larger than the copper tube. If it's too large, make sure you sand it down until it's just a bit larger than the tube, then hammer it into the tube. If it doesn't go in smoothly you may have to &quot;sharpen&quot; the end of the copper tube with a file or grinder. Don't beat on the wood too hard or you'll bend the copper. The excess wood should shear off and you will have an immovable wooden plug in the end of the tube. Now you can drill a hole in the wood and mount the wheels.
Sounds like a good way to do it. Thanks!
really awesome. I remember seeing a restaurant sign in Shinjuku made of copper pipe and wondering about using it a practical way in furniture. very cool usage. thanks for posting.
That's a very nice project! Voted a winner in the &quot;I could make that&quot; contest! Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for the vote!
looks great! the napkin hanger was a smart idea! i love the copper color. also dont forget to spray it with clear spray paint, it starts corroding. unless u are like me and like the antique look that it will have after few years....
Thanks for the tip on coating the copper! I think I'll let it patina over time, but it's good to know the options.
Very nice indeed :-)
Thanks for the patch!
They're beautiful! I'm going to have to try this next time I find myself needing a table.
Thanks! Good luck on your future table! <br>
These are really beautiful! Great job!
Thanks so much!

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a maker with a penchant for art and a love of sculpting the unsettling. I also appreciate the history of deep craft traditions ... More »
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