The way I actually made the drill press requires these materials:
- drawer slider (any slide length)
- plywood (any thickness, make sure its flat and smooth, I used 3/8")
- wood (any dimensions; 2x4's and 2x6's work best)
- stick (or pvc)
- gorilla glue (most helpful stuff on the planet!)
- A metal rod (once you see what it is for, it is easy to see alternatives such as a 3" screw)
Step 1: Materials
- dremmel (probably can find one for $10-15 if you dont have one and really want to do this)
- drawer slider ($0.50 each at the local surplus store)
- plywood (any thickness, make sure its flat and smooth) (find it for free outside)
- wood (any dimensions, 2x2, 2x4, 2x8 all work nice) (find it for free outside)
- stick (or pvc). use the width that feels best in your hand for a lever
- spring. wing it, find a spring that feels like enough to pull back up the dremmel, but no stronger. ($1 at hardware stores) (maybe get 2)
- conductive anything (i used steel rod) (find free outside and clean or use foil or something)
- gorilla glue (most helpful stuff on the planet!)
- a metal rod or long-ish screws
- a soldering iron / gun + solder
Step 2: Design
1) I wanted a stable base that would have a level, square surface. This would be made out of plywood. I used 3/8" thick, 8"x8" square piece of flat plywood for this.
2) This base was held up by a cross of metal (you should use a 2x4) that was connected to the vertical back.
3) The vertical back was made out of wood / metal (again, you should probably just stick to a 2x4 or 2x6).
4) the drawer sliders were spaced inwards with a piece of plywood and then the dremmel was mounted to the drawer slider with a spacer of a 2x4. The wood spacers were added so that the dremmel was positioned further towards the center of the base plate.
5) the arm was attached to the vertical back
*** I am having some trouble uploading the SketchUp files to ibles. You can find them at my website using the following link: http://lumierelab.net/projects/drill_press.html (this link itself is not a download link, but you should see the file download links on the page).
Step 3: Re / Wiring
I wanted to rewire the dremmel on/off switch so that it was easier to turn on / off. The original dremmel wiring was to a switch on the butt of the dremmel that was fairly sticky and hard to flip. So I pulled the switch out (I left it there, but only as a backup switch in case I wanted it later.
****CAUTION: DANGEROUS IDEAS AHEAD!****
I instead wanted the dremmel to turn on as I lowered the lever, and to turn off when the handle was all the way up in the resting position. I was going to leave the primary switch on the power cord so that you could lock it off when not in use. I liked the idea of the dremmel only being on when you were pulling it down to drill and this way you didn't have to flip a switch at all when you wanted to drill a single hole. (See the videos at the end if this is still unclear)
The most cautionary part of this plan is that I have exposed mains power on one of the power lines. YOU SHOULD NEVER DO THIS. None-the-less I did... The lower part of the lever arm has a metal rod screwed tightly to it. There is a small (1 cm) length of exposed metal that is difficult to touch but non-the-less exposed. It is not in the slightest dangerous when the primary switch is off, but should be cautious of this zone when the dremmel is in use.
Take the active wire from mains (while power is off) and cut it. The active wire in American 3-prong outlets is the black wire. We are going to re-solder the one end of the black wire to the lever arm conductive area. The other end of the black wire is going to be soldered to the pin that the lever uses to push the whole dremmel apparatus down. So when you pull the lever down, it will make contact with the pin as it pushes the dremmel down, thus completing the circuit and turning the dremmel on.
I chose to insulate the vast majority of the wrapped conductive wire around the lever just to be as safe as possible. I will most likely get a lot of criticism here, which is why it is cautioned use. I don't think it is very dangerous, just intuitively bad practice. I used liquid tape (electrical liquid tape, not just glue) and lots of electrical tape. Same with the pin.
****END OF DANGEROUS IDEAS SECTION****
If you don't want to re-wire anything like this, you will just have to use the pre-installed switch on your dremmel to turn it on / off.
Finally, I just tied back the cable so that it was out of the way of the dremmel. You can use duct tape, a screw, a twist-tie, glue, a rubber band, etc. to accomplish this.
Step 4: Gorilla Bond!
Glue everything one piece at a time to ensure everything affixes straight. You can glue it all over the course of a weekend (which I did). Just have 4-5 hour drying periods in between glueings. Clamps are optional, I always just use a book or brick if I think weight is needed.
Before you begin glueing, make sure you are in a well ventilated area and have laid down scrap paper or cardboard so the glue doesn't reach anything pretty like a carpet or floor you plan on using ever again. This glue is strong! I way overused the glue when attaching things, but I know it wont ever break of move at all :)
First, glue your base together firmly. A flat and level base is the most important part. Maybe use weights or a clamp here.
Next, glue the vertical back to the side of the base. Maybe use weights or a clamp here. This connection will need to be the only structurally strong connection in the project (well, it needs to be the strongest at least).
How you can either play it safe here and use screws to affix the 2x4 spacer to the drawer slider, or you can risk gluing it on. The benefit of screws here is that you know you wont ruin your sliders. The benefit of glue is that you dont need any screws and its risky! :) and I suppose with glue you can position the angle while its drying so that you are 100% sure it is sliding straight down. What I want to point out though is that if you take the screwing method, you must do so NOW, because we are about to cover up the backs of the drawer sliders.
Next you will be glueing the spacer plywood to the vertical back and then the drawer sliders to that plywood. BE VERY CAREFUL when glueing the drawer sliders on. Apply minimal glue so that it doesnt expand up into the drawer slider's sliding section. If this happens, you will need to buy new sliders.
Once all of this has been glued, and your switch for the dremmel is removed (if you want it to be), then proceed. Locate the important parts of the dremmel: the on / off switch (if still mounted), the chuck lock release button (located at the bottom of the dremmel), and the speed adjustment (if there is one). Make sure ALL of these are facing outwards and not about to be buried in glue. Next you are going to glue up your dremmel on one side only and hold it right onto the 2x4 spacer. Perhaps it would be a good idea to tape it in place while it is drying to ensure it doesnt shift around.
You are all done with the assembly stage now! It should look and feel like a drill press at this stage. It is even operational! All we have left to do is mount the lever arm, finish wiring it, and affix the springs...
Step 5: Springs!!!
I used mounting holders, but they are 100% ancillary. Just screw the end of the spring right into the wood on one end, and right into the slider on the top end. [As pictured]
Play with the length the spring needs to be at before permanently mounting it. This length will vary based on how long your spring is, how strong the spring is, and how heavy your dremmel is.
Step 6: Pull the Lever, Kronk!
measure out the distance that feels right to you (I cut mine to 12") and cut it.
Drill a hole in the end of it (with your working new drill press!).
I used a bent metal rod that fit into two holes in the side of the drill press to make the lever pin. The pictures do a better job explaining the shape you want. Do a similar thing to install the second contact pin (the pin that the lever will come down to push the dremmel down). To secure the pins in the correct positions, drill a hole and then fill in some gorilla glue and stab in the pin for good.
Before attaching the lever to the drill press, attach a conductive element (in my case, a metal rod) to the bottom of the lever where it will come into contact with the pin to complete the circuit. Then you can affix your lever on to the drill press.
Step 7: Finished Product
Also, here is a video of the lever arm being pulled down in working action!