Picture of Easy Hollow Horns

Our other instructable for hollow horns was very wordy.  So here's a different and easy method using Crayola Model Magic.  Although there are eleven steps, there is not much reading :-)

Cost: about $25.

This method results in horns that are just as light, but definitely not as strong as the ones in our previous 'able.  Painting these horns with foam glue, or a mix of foam glue and PVA glue, will make them a little stronger.  Keep them short; no longer than these.  If you want long horns with more than one curl, try our other instructable.  

We make our horns hollow all the way through, because we like messing about with installing lights into them.  Happy Halloween!

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Step 1: Supplies

Picture of Supplies
Crayola Model Magic - any colour.  Or mix colours for a marbled effect.  One 4oz bag makes one horn.
Twisted plant support (it's hollow).
Cheap plastic packaging tape.
Cooking/Baking paper.
Rolling pin.
a few small rubber bands.
a long piece of elastic, about 1cm or just under 1/2 an inch wide.
Foam glue.
Wirecutters or a hacksaw.

Step 2: Cut the plant support to size.

Picture of Cut the plant support to size.
Use wirecutters or a hacksaw to cut 2 curly bits out of the centre of the plant support.  DO WANT symmetry and 'mirror image'.  Do NOT WANT 'spooning'.

Step 3: Wrap the plant support in packaging tape.

Picture of Wrap the plant support in packaging tape.
Wrap each plant support tightly with thin plastic packaging tape.
Graduate it so that it's thicker at the bottom, and tapers off to nothing at the top.

Step 4: Wrap plant support in cooking paper.

Picture of Wrap plant support in cooking paper.

Wrap a long, unbroken strip of cooking paper around the plant support, over the top of the packaging tape.  Overlap heaps.  Don't leave any gaps.
Hold the cooking paper in place by putting small rubber bands at the top and bottom.

Step 5: Roll Model Magic into a long cylinder.

Picture of Roll Model Magic into a long cylinder.
Knead the Model Magic.  It comes out of the bag already soft, and a little pliable.  Kneading makes it just that bit more so. 
Roll it into a long cylinder.  The one in the photo came out too long.  I had to double it over and re-roll it.

Step 6: Flatten the cylinder.

Picture of Flatten the cylinder.

Flatten the cylinder with a rolling pin or similar.  Don't roll it too thin.  The thinner it is, the weaker it will be.

gemtree3 months ago

How are they attached to the head?

KDS44442 years ago
Maybe you should consider adding a step called "Removing the cores" which would come before this final stage. You only state that you removed the support cores by "twisting carefully." Is it really that simple? How many times have you done this and has it ever gone wrong or have the horns ever come apart while removing the cores? Are the cores reusable? Etc.
It looks like all of your horns twist the same direction, it seems like if you flipped the core wire piece before beginning you could get a pair that curled together in front...if that makes any sense at all :P
Dimensionz (author)  IndyParrothead4 years ago
Yes, they do all twist in the same direction unfortunately. Flip the core wire piece any way you like, and they still face in the same direction :( I'm sure there's some mathematical principle involved here that I don't understand!
The only way to create the illusion of them going in different directions is to cut the second piece so that the upper point ends up facing in the opposite direction to the first piece. That is, if the tip of the first piece is facing to the right, the tip of the second piece has to be facing to the left - and vice versa. It's one of those things that has to be done for real - you just can't picture it accurately in your head. Or maybe it's just me that can't picture it accurately :P
Dimensionz (author) 4 years ago
Never having used model magic before, I sealed the horns before painting. I didn't know if the paint was going to (a) stick properly to the surface of the model magic, or (b) react in a bad way with the model magic (e.g. soften it, fall off it, etc). I guess I was being over-careful. Basically I sealed, painted, and sealed again over the paint.
co-op4 years ago
is it suggested that you paint before or after sealing? i would think it's before, but i'd rather check first
Lissote4 years ago
By plant support, what gauge wire do you mean? As thick as a coat hanger, maybe?
Lissote Lissote4 years ago
Oh, I see from your other tutorial that they're pretty huge.
Dimensionz (author)  Lissote4 years ago
yes, they're about 1cm or 5/8 of an inch thick. But they're hollow, and not too hard to cut. I found that a decent pair of wirecutters cut through them quite easily.
scoochmaroo4 years ago
Stop changing your pictures! :D
The one with them on your head, or the last one on the last step make the most intriguing intro pictures (meaning more people will want to click on it!)
Dimensionz (author)  scoochmaroo4 years ago
OK! You're the boss.
sn0manX4 years ago
how hard is it when it drys?
Dimensionz (author)  sn0manX4 years ago
Once dry, it feels like a cross between rubber and marshmallow - very very light, and a little springy. It doesn't seem to be super strong - but maybe I rolled it out too thinly. TBH this is my first time using it - I do like it though, as it seems to be cheaper than other modeling media.
red-king4 years ago
do you think it's possible to make ram horns using this method?
Dimensionz (author)  red-king4 years ago
I would cautiously say yes, if the horns are not too long. Maybe make them thicker at the base. Or even give my other horn instructable a try - it might be better for rams' horns, if they're very curly and longish. This one, I think, is good for shorter horns. Hope you will post pics here, if you make them! :) would love to see them.
I don't know if/ when i will try it out, but I'll post some pictures if/when I do. I'm pretty busy these days.