As you might have noticed most electronics these days are surface mount components and can be difficult to work with if you don't have a preheater and a hot air rework station. This can make troubleshooting a pain. Fortunately there is a solution. I will give you a quick introduction to low melt solder.
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2 Low Melt Solder
3 No clean paste flux
4 Tweezers or a vacuum pickup tool







































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1 Apply flux
2 use desoldering wick/braid to suck up excess solder
3 (tricky bit) apply the tip of the iron to one IC leg (and pad) at a time, when the solder is melted, lift up the leg just a fraction with a dentist spike or similar, remove iron, and let the leg go. Total time about 1.5 sec, just enough to melt the solder, break the bond, let the solder set.
4 Repeat for all the other legs.
The danger with this method is that the pads can be lifted if you heat too long, or lift the leg before the solder is melted - the solder goes from dull to shiny when melted and back to dull when set.
5 double check all legs are free before lifting the IC away
6 Flux and desolder the bare pads.
Hot air is the best, but this way works fine, once you get the hang of it.
darkmuskrat: A Cold Heat soldering iron will fry sensitive (Read: Basically anything other than a resistor or capacitor these days) electronics. Plain and simple. Unlike professional electronics soldering irons which feature 'zero-crossing' technology (No voltage or current used to heat the iron can leak into the tip) Cold Heat soldering irons specifically use voltage and current at the tip to induce heat.