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Hello!
This is a simple how-to for making a good quality skate box that can be portable. The decision to make your own box is really a natural one when all street spots are a bust and the parks are overcrowded. This particular box can also be made fairly cheaply especially if you have some plywood and 2x4's lying around. The only non-common components are the right-angle bar and masonite.
I have attached a small pdf with drawings of the box and dimensions.
Here's a short video of my friend skating the box:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RW3-vSasAT0
This is a simple how-to for making a good quality skate box that can be portable. The decision to make your own box is really a natural one when all street spots are a bust and the parks are overcrowded. This particular box can also be made fairly cheaply especially if you have some plywood and 2x4's lying around. The only non-common components are the right-angle bar and masonite.
I have attached a small pdf with drawings of the box and dimensions.
Here's a short video of my friend skating the box:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RW3-vSasAT0
skate_box.PDF(792x612) 498 KB
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Signing UpStep 1Considerations and Materials List
We had several restrictions in mind when designing the box:
1) The box had to be able to fit in the car. In our case unfortunately, this meant that the box had to fit into a Subaru STi. This gave us a max length of under 6'. Our final length was 66" and the box just fits in snug enough to shut the hatchback. This works fine for us but a longer length would be more comfortable to skate. I recommend going with something around 7' - 8' if you have a larger vehicle or are not concerned with moving the box. Keep in mind though that the length of the box will be limited by the length of right-angle bar that you can find. At Home Depot, the longest one I could find of decent stock was 6' length.
2) The box had to be sturdy enough to take a beating and get skated regularly without breaking down.
3) Light enough for a person to carry by hand.
Parts! The parts list is fairly short so here goes:
1) The all-important right angle bar! This is what you will actually be grinding and limits the maximum length that you box can be. As I mentioned earlier, the length of this bar will limit the maximum length of your box and at Home Depot I could only find 6' length. You should be able to find longer ones elsewhere. NOTE: make sure you are using steel or the densest metal you can find and it should be at least 1/8" thick.
2) Sheet of masonite: Try to find one that matches the thickness of your metal bar.
3) Sheet of plywood: get a sheet that is 3/4" or thicker.
4) There is not much to the 2x4's. It is important to look for the straightest pieces possible and make sure you get a little more than you think you will need.
5) Screws: we used standard 2" wood screws to fasten the top pieces (plywood, masonite, metal bar) and used 3" stainless wood screws to fasten the 2x4's to each other.
Home Depot Note: they offer a cutting service that should definitely be taken advantage of for the plywood and masonite pieces if you buy them there. I do not recommend cutting the 2x4 pieces to size there. You should be measuring each fitting as you go and then cutting the 2x4's to the correct size (there is usually some play in the actual lengths).
1) The box had to be able to fit in the car. In our case unfortunately, this meant that the box had to fit into a Subaru STi. This gave us a max length of under 6'. Our final length was 66" and the box just fits in snug enough to shut the hatchback. This works fine for us but a longer length would be more comfortable to skate. I recommend going with something around 7' - 8' if you have a larger vehicle or are not concerned with moving the box. Keep in mind though that the length of the box will be limited by the length of right-angle bar that you can find. At Home Depot, the longest one I could find of decent stock was 6' length.
2) The box had to be sturdy enough to take a beating and get skated regularly without breaking down.
3) Light enough for a person to carry by hand.
Parts! The parts list is fairly short so here goes:
1) The all-important right angle bar! This is what you will actually be grinding and limits the maximum length that you box can be. As I mentioned earlier, the length of this bar will limit the maximum length of your box and at Home Depot I could only find 6' length. You should be able to find longer ones elsewhere. NOTE: make sure you are using steel or the densest metal you can find and it should be at least 1/8" thick.
2) Sheet of masonite: Try to find one that matches the thickness of your metal bar.
3) Sheet of plywood: get a sheet that is 3/4" or thicker.
4) There is not much to the 2x4's. It is important to look for the straightest pieces possible and make sure you get a little more than you think you will need.
5) Screws: we used standard 2" wood screws to fasten the top pieces (plywood, masonite, metal bar) and used 3" stainless wood screws to fasten the 2x4's to each other.
Home Depot Note: they offer a cutting service that should definitely be taken advantage of for the plywood and masonite pieces if you buy them there. I do not recommend cutting the 2x4 pieces to size there. You should be measuring each fitting as you go and then cutting the 2x4's to the correct size (there is usually some play in the actual lengths).
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very good product bro, this has definitely inspired me.
You can easily modify it to fit your specific needs/wants.
Some notes: For the height that we finished it at, it was super easy to skate and do all sorts of tricks on. The only problem was that we had to build it a little shorter in length to fit in my friend's hatchback.
I have a truck now, so if we were to rebuild it, I would go up a couple inches and definitely make it longer.
The masonite protects the plywood underneath which would otherwise get torn up pretty quickly.
Also the masonite helps your wheels slide for certain tricks (boardslides, lipslides, etc.)
Would that work?
If you just walk into a Home Depot and ask one of the workers for masonite they will be able to point you to it. I bought my piece there; it was not difficult to find.
By the way, that link you put up is for a sheet of 'hardwood plywood' and is definitely not the same thing. I just did a quick search on the Home Depot website and was unable to find masonite on their site but I assure you, they carry it.
You need to drill holes into the bar (about 4 or 5 on the each face should be plenty). It is extremely important to countersink the holes. You want to be certain that the screwheads will not stick out and catch your board or trucks. In the 2nd picture for this step, you can see the countersunk screw that is holding down the masonite. That is exactly how it needs to be.
Alternatively, you could skip the screws/hole-drilling method and just use liquid nails if you prefer. A long time ago someone put up a metal right-angle bar on the ledges outside of Staples (mid-wilshire area) and it held up great for night sessions. It would have probably stayed on for a very long time but Staples had it removed for obvious reasons.
once again, awsoem instuctable... a few of my friends are thinking about makin' one to now =D
Thanks for the kind words. Now I need to figure out a new project and post it up here...
The masonite can be a little problematic. Even if you aren't hitting it with your trucks it will eventually start warping and coming up in places.
The best thing to do is to just keep adding screws to hold it down where ever it comes up. Just make sure that you countersink the holes so that the screw heads don't stick up.
After a REALLY long time and a lot of abuse, it is probably best to just replace the masonite piece (but you would probably be tired of skating the box by that time anyway).
Anyway keep skating!
1. About how much do you think the "angle bar" will cost?
2. Is the "masonite" important? or could i just use some good quality wood with some good stain or somethin'?
thx for the help bro =))
1) The angle bar was purchased at Home Depot and cost mid $20's.
2) The masonite is definitely a good idea for two reasons. First, it allows your wheels to slide for boardslides and lipslides. Second, it is about the same thickness as the bar, so it gives the entire top of the box a flat surface. Its not really expensive and its easy to get at your local Depot or equivalent. Lastly, I don't think you want to use stain on the wood as it would probably be sticky and leave residue on your wheels.
Good luck with your build and post pics!
I'm not really big on launch ramps but I've always wanted to build a miniramp. I think that would definitely be a doable project but I have nowhere to put it.
In the more immediate future, however, I just learned to weld. I plan on testing my new skill by putting together a flat rail. It should be really easy and if I remember to take pictures then I'll post it here.
but with 2 right angle bars on the sides
how much did this all cost u?
The total build cost was only $80 but that was because we had all the screws and some of the wood. I'm not exactly certain how much the total build cost would be but probably in the low $100 range.
I would be interested to see your build. Post pictures and good luck on your build!