Easy and Light Skate Box Setup

Step 5 Assembly Part 4

Now the final step!

Depending where you purchase the metal bar it could be a different measurement on the side. The one we purchased from Home Depot was just about 2". Regardless, you should install the metal piece first and then measure the proper width for the masonite piece.

Important: make sure that you countersink all the holes for the metal bar (the ones on top and on the side) AND all holes in the masonite that border the metal bar. You want to make sure that the heads of the screws do not stick up above the surface. Nothing sucks more than having your board chipped away by screws.

"Important #2:" most metal bars have a bit of a curve on the inside corner and ours was no exception. We cut away the edge of the plywood facing that inside corner to allow the metal bar to sit perfectly flat and secure (see pic below).

Comments

[sk8rforlife]

Where did you drill the holes for the metal bar?

[nonoodlez]

So, it is really not visible in the picture but I used screws on both faces of the metal bar (top and side) to keep it in place.

You need to drill holes into the bar (about 4 or 5 on the each face should be plenty). It is extremely important to countersink the holes. You want to be certain that the screwheads will not stick out and catch your board or trucks. In the 2nd picture for this step, you can see the countersunk screw that is holding down the masonite. That is exactly how it needs to be.

Alternatively, you could skip the screws/hole-drilling method and just use liquid nails if you prefer. A long time ago someone put up a metal right-angle bar on the ledges outside of Staples (mid-wilshire area) and it held up great for night sessions. It would have probably stayed on for a very long time but Staples had it removed for obvious reasons.