This is a simple sled that you can make in less than 2 hours. It does not have the little bells and whistles like a T slot for an adjustable stop. But that is easily compensated with a block of wood and a a small clamp...
There are plenty of youtube videos out there on how to make TS sleds. I just tried to integrate a number of features I liked and document the right tricks that allow you to have everything squared easily for a precise sled. The steps described in this instructable can be used on any TS that has mitre tracks.
I used my TS for 2 months without a sled and I can tell you this sled has been a life changer in my shop.
Step 1: Cut the guide strips
I used some short pieces to set up the fence and sneak in on a snug fit. then I cut the long strips.
Step 2: Nail the base to the guide strips
This being said, drop the strips in the mitre tracks. Lower the blade completely. Then put the board on top and visually align in with the edge of the TS top that is on your side. Then take some small nails and partially drive them through the base and in the guides. The goal here is just to secure the guides in position. Two nails in each guide would suffice. These nails will be removed if they are too long to be driven all the way through. Some people suggest doing this with double sided tape. The nails work fine for me.
Once the guides are secure, filp the base around and drive a 4-5 nails in each guide to secure it to the base. the nail length should be selected so that they do not point out on the other side.
Test the base, it should slide back and forth easily. Use sand paper to reduce any parts that may be causing a blockage. you can add wax or silicone spay to lubricate.
You now have a based perfectly fixed on 2 guides that fits snugly in the tracks.
Step 3: Lift the blade through the base
Easy and gratifying step...
Step 4: Add the fences
I used a trim router with 45 degree guided bit to chamfer one corner of the main fence. This is for saw dust relief. How big should it be? not too big and not too small I guess...
Cut the fence pieces to lenght and position the main fence on the base and use a square (the larger the better) to position it at 90 degrees with the edge of the line cut by the blade. Once you are satisfied it is perfectly square, you clamp it down to the base.
Flip the whole thing around and secure the fence to the base using screws. Drill pilot holes and countersinks so that the head of the screw ends below the surface level.
It is not as critical for the second fence to be perfectly square like the main fence. The wood you select does not have to be as perfect either. Follow similar steps to fix it to the base.
Step 5: Add some safety features
During my search, on one sled model I saw, the maker had added 2 scrap strips to keep things (hands and fingers) away from the blade. Most designs I had seen before had some sort of removable or sliding plexiglass casing. I quite like the strip method because the material is readily available and it serves the purpose mostly. It is not as "hermetic" as a plexiglass casing, but it is very practical and you always have a nice clean view of your cut. The strips will also deviate any large piece that might might be projected by the turning blade. I feel it's a nice compromise.
I still need to modify the riving knife so it can be permanently fixed on the saw. The one delivered with the saw extends above the blade as it is meant to hold a flimsy blade guard. I need to cut it so it fits just below the blade.
A stop block can easily be clamped on the fence for repeaded cuts.
There you go... some simple tricks to easly build a precise sled for your table saw.
Enjoy the square cuts!