Step 3: Fabricar el cloruro de zinc (manufacturing zinc chloride)

Seguramente se debe poder comprar hecho, pero yo no tengo la menor idea de cómo ni donde ni a qué precio. Por lo tanto, lo hago como aprendí a hacerlo en mi infancia. Es la parte más peligrosa y delicada del trabajo.

El poco cinc puro que pude conseguir lo obtuve en parte de pilas viejas, y en parte de unas pilas que desarmé hace unos años para utilizar los carbones. Tengo entendido que en USA hay monedas chicas hechas de cinc y cubiertas con cobre o bronce. Hay que limarles la cubierta exterior, o arreglarse de alguna manera para separar el cinc del resto.

Luego hay que conseguir un recipiente adecuado para producir la reacción química, y lo suficientemente resistente como para conservar el cloruro de zinc luego, porque es una sustancia relativamente peligrosa. En mi caso usé un frasco plástico con tapa hermética a rosca.

Vertí una pequeña cantidad de ácido clorhídrico dentro del recipiente, aproximadamente 50 cc. Creo que hubiera sido mejor 25 cc.

Corté en pequeños trozos y en tiras delgadas el cinc, para aumentar su superficie. La reacción química tiene lugar en la superficie del cinc, por eso es conveniente no utilizar trozos macizos. Pero como se produce efervescencia, un poco de calor y efusión de hidrógeno, no es conveniente usar limaduras o polvo de cinc. En caso de tener que usarlo de esa manera, sugiero ir agregándolo cuidadosamente en dosis muy pequeñas, de algunos miligramos por vez, para evitar recibir salpicaduras.

Al empezar a arrojar los trocitos de cinc dentro del ácido, se produce una efervescencia bastante fuerte que puede salpicar ácido muriático alrededor del recipiente, por lo cual es conveniente hacer esto tomando todas las precauciones del caso. OJO, el "vapor" que se produce es una mezcla de hidrógeno (muy combustible) y aerosol de ácido clorhídrico, por lo que hay que evitar aspirarlo. Por eso sugiero trabajar en exteriores o en lugar muy ventilado.

A medida que el ácido del recipiente va atacando el cinc, este último se va disolviendo, y al mismo tiempo la fuerza de la reacción va disminuyendo. Es necesario seguir agregando cinc hasta que no se observe ninguna reacción, e incluso a partir de ese momento asegurarse de que quede al menos un trozo de cinc sin diluir, y dejar pasar algunas horas. Esto es porque el hecho de que no se vea ninguna reacción no significa que esta no ocurra lentamente. Insisto: si desaparece todo el cinc, hay que volver a agregar hasta que quede un residuo en forma permanente.


Probably it can be purchased made, but I have no idea how or where or at what price. So I do it as learned in my childhood. It is the most dangerous and delicate work.

The pure zinc bit I got was part of old batteries, and part of three batteries disassembled years ago to use the kernels. I have heard that in USA there are coins made of zinc and covered with copper or bronze. You must file the outer, or cope in some way to separate the zinc from the rest.

Then you need to get a suitable container to produce the chemical reaction, and strong enough to keep the zinc chloride because it is a relatively dangerous substance. In my case I used a plastic bottle with screw-tight lid.

Shed a small amount of hydrochloric acid within the vessel, approximately 50 cc. I think it would have been better 25 cc.

zinc into small pieces or thin strips, to increase its surface. The chemical reaction takes place at the zinc's surface, so it is desirable not to use big pieces. But as effervescence occurs, a little warmth and effusion of hydrogen, it is not convenient to use filings or zinc dust. If you have to use it that way, I suggest adding it carefully in very small doses of a few milligrams at a time, to avoid getting spray.

When you start throwing the pieces of zinc in acid, there is a fairly strong effervescence; muriatic acid can splash around the vessel, making it convenient to do this by taking all precautions. WARN, the "vapor" that occurs is a mixture of hydrogen (very
combustible) and hydrochloric acid aerosol, so breathing must be avoided.  I suggest working outdoors or in a very well ventilated place.

As the acid goes attacking the zinc, this is dissolved, while the strength of the reaction decreases. It is necessary to continue adding zinc until no reaction is observed, and even from that time make sure it is at least one piece of raw zinc, and leave pass a few hours. This is because the fact you can not see any reaction does not mean that this does not happen slowly.   I repeat: if all the zinc disappears, it must be re-added until a permanent piece remains.

<p>Crees que se pueda utilizar una fuente de computadora? regularmente son 12V a m&aacute;ximo 18 A. Excelente aporte por cierto, muy interesante, muchas gracias! :D</p>
<p>Posiblemente sirva una fuente de PC, pero nunca lo hice. Prob&aacute; y cont&aacute; el resultado ac&aacute;, por favor.</p>
<p>Posiblemente sirva una fuente de PC, pero nunca lo hice. Prob&aacute; y cont&aacute; el resultado ac&aacute;, por favor.</p>
Why anyone would make a dangerous back yard electroplating contraption bamboozles me. <br> <br>The electroplating process demonstrated in the Instructable is not a viable, durable, long term, corrosion resistant solution. <br> <br>There is a big difference between galvanising and zinc plating. Zinc plating exposed to the weather will corrode very fast. It is a better solution to spray paint the steel with a weatherproof epoxy paint. <br> <br>Commercial zinc plating involves the electrolytic application of zinc by immersing clean steel parts in a zinc salt solution and applying an electric current. This process applies a layer of pure zinc that ranges from a few microns on cheap hardware components to 15 microns or more on good quality fasteners. Technical and cost issues prevent the economical plating of components with heavier coatings. <br> <br>Most industrial steel posts are hot dipped galvanised. In an industrial situation where hot dipped galvanising is welded, the weld is painted with a cold galvanising paint. The cold galvanising paint is just as if not more durable that the hot dipped galvanising. <br> <br>Weather exposed galvanised posts should be painted at the ground level because the atmospheric moisture and the soil will corrode the galvanising at the soil contact point. <br> <br>The majority of good quality roofing sheets worldwide are plated with a patented process called zincalume. Zincalume is a far superior product to zinc plating and galvanising. The lifetime of zincalume is up to four times that of ordinary galvanised steel. If the zincalume steel is lightly scratched the zincalume coating reacts with the atmospheric moisture and self heals. That is why you can cut a zincalume sheet and the ends will not rust. <br> <br>Colorbonding zincalume adds another protection layer to the zincalume layer. <br>
<blockquote> <p> <em>&quot;</em><em>Why anyone would make a dangerous back yard electroplating contraption bamboozles me.&quot;</em></p> </blockquote> It's not bad enough to flag as a violation of the &quot;Be Nice&quot; comment policy, but it's still not a nice way to start a comment. I suppose you mean well, databoy, but if this one bothers you, you're probably &quot;bamboozled&quot; by many of the projects on Instructables, because a large percentage of them involve &quot;dangerous backyard contraptions&quot; that yield less-than-industrial-quality results. The fun is in the doing, the jury-rigging, the brainstorming, the re-purposing, the problem solving, the tinkering...that's what this Instructables website is about. You passed along a lot of information about industrial coatings, but almost none of it useful to the do-it-yourselfer. (I do want to learn more about &quot;cold galvanizing paint&quot;, though. Where do you buy it?)<br> <br> Like rimar2000, I'm also retired. I grew up in a time when we threw-out things a lot less and fixed and repaired things a lot more. After a long career I now have the time to do that again, and I really enjoy it. Please don't make comments here or elsewhere that belittle, and don't lecture; it tends to take the fun out of it.<br> <br> Cheers.<br> <br> P.S. If you want to be taken seriously, you shouldn't suggest that wrenches should be painted.&nbsp; :)
Thanks jexter. I agree fully with you, but I am not annoyed for the comment of databoy. Really I don't know all these technical matters, I do only the things I can, sometimes with good results and others &ndash;mostly&ndash; failed. But as you said, doing them is the fun. <br> <br>In this case, a russian friend told me that in his country they use this method often, in cars and other things. I apllied it two or three times, and the result was temporary, maybe databoy is right, a coat of paint would been better.
Pardon, databoy, just now I see your comment. Thanks for your data, I didn't know that.
OK, thanks for your comment. I named it &quot;electroplating&quot; because it was an option from Google (sorry, I don't speak English).<br> <br> If you read carefully my post, you will realize that I am not suggesting this method as industrial procedure or so. It is good enough for little domestic repairs. I know there are other methods, surely some of them better, but I am only speaking about THIS, in order to some persons can know it exists.<br> <br> Personally, I prefer to use <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Fosfatizando-Phosphating/" rel="nofollow">liquid phosphating</a>. It is easier and safer, but I don't know which of both is better.
Hi Rimar, i have recently discovered a process that works really well for me, using household chemicals, the electrolyte is made from White Vinegar, sugar, and epsom salts, or magnesium sulphate, which was commonly used in the old days as a laxative. <br> <br>Here i have placed the link, it is in english but i am sure google will do it justice. <br>http://home.comcast.net/%7Ert66tbird/website/index.html <br>The nice thing about it, is that it does not involve any serious chemicals, although, once mixed up, it does constitute a mild acid. <br>I live at the coast in South Africa and have made some tee's used as concrete anchors, which have been exposed to the elements for some months now, no sign of rust or degradation. <br>I used an old industrial computer supply which delivers 12 amps at 5 volts, works really well. Any old pc supply should be able to give you that anyway. <br>I really enjoy your instructables!!
OK, finally I found the link here: <a href="http://home.comcast.net/~rt66tbird/website/zincplating.html" rel="nofollow">http://home.comcast.net/~rt66tbird/website/zincplating.html</a><br> <br> You can use that method to galvanize little parts, surely it is better. But for big parts that have a little rust stain, you can't use it.
Thanks for your comment and praise, andersohndj, I could not find the formula in your link, may be you were wrong when pasting it. Where the zinc is in the recipe? Or is it another coating? <br> <br>I think 5 V 12 A is good for a medium lapse electroplating, but not for this fast method.
Hi Rimar, the link does work, i have just checked, the info is under &quot;Restoration tips&quot; on the right of the screen. <br>I have found that useful plating takes around 10 mins with this method, obviously also dependant on the item size as well and also the proximity to the zinc anode. <br>What i like about this method is that it can almost be described as harmless. Here i have added extracts from the link for the recipe. <br> <br> <br>Here is the recipe. I filled the bucket with 3 liters of white vinegar. I then added 300 grams of Epsom salts and 100 grams of sugar to the solution. The solution was then stirred with a paint stick until it was all well dissolved. <br>
&iquest;se puede usar una soldadora como fuente de energ&iacute;a? La pinza a la chapa, el portaelectrodos pellizcando el pincel... <br>Any chance one could use a common welding machine as source of energy, connecting one clamp to the metal base and the other to the brush?
Yo creo que no ser&iacute;a conveniente, porque la soldadora suministra demasiada potencia. Adem&aacute;s, hay muchas de corriente alterna, como la que uso yo, y se necesita corriente continua. <br>----------------- <br>I think it would be inappropriate, because the welding supplies too power. In addition, there are many AC, like that I use, and you need DC. <br>
Gracias,..juanjo ,desde castillos/rocha/ uruguay
Me alegro de serte &uacute;til, hermano oriental.
Zinc chloride powder/crystals are available on eBay if you don't want to mess with dissolving zinc in muriatic/hydrochloric acid. Keep in mind it is still very corrosive and requires the same precautions when you mix it with water, you just eliminate one step.
Thanks for the info. I live in Argentina, maybe some drugstores here sells it.
Genial. Una explicaci&oacute;n completa. Gracias. <br>
Gracias a vos por el comentario positivo.
I learned in chemistry a rule: AAA (Always add acid [to a base]) So would adding a little acid at a time to zinc instead help in controlling the release of heat and avoid violent splashing?
Oh, I did not know that. Maybe it can prevents the splashing. Thanks for your advice.
Lo vi alguna vez en Mecanica Popular una revista muy Interesante.Gracias por compartir.
Gracias por tu comentario, Mr.Sanchez. Yo recibo el bolet&iacute;n semanal de Mi Mec&aacute;nica Popular, pondr&eacute; cuidado en revisarlo con m&aacute;s detenimiento. De ah&iacute; he sacado varias ideas interesantes.
Una muy buena fuente de datos...hay proyectos increibles y muy detallados.
That is genius.
Thanks for the compliment, but I didn't invented it!
The by product is Hydrogen gas....be careful.
Yes, I know, thanks for the advice.
That is a very interesting method for electroplating, I never though of brushing the zinc on.&nbsp; This would be great fro re-galvanizing welds on previously galvanized items.<br> <br> Is there a limit to the size of object that can be plated?<br> <br> Excellent works as always :)
Good idea that of re-galvanizing after welding. I think there are no limits of size. <br><br>Thanks for yout comment.
Thank you. This is very interesting. It appears your wrench turned out well.
Thanks, Phil. I will see the result in a few months.
That spanner looks like one I once used on the metal lathe I was operator of many years ago. the one i had was completely rusted, I had it sandblasted and it came up like new, the constant coating of coolant oil never allowed it to rust from that point on and it went that nice chocolate colour that real good quality steel goes. Those old tools had real good metal in them, that one don't look to bad for having bee buried for a number of years.
Maybe it is your spanner!! ;)<br>
As ALWAYS, very useful and informative. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for your kind comment.
I always thought you had to do it in a bath over long periods of time. This seems simpler and more immediate once you have the zinc chloride.
I think the bath method is far more effective, but it requires much more previous work and installation.<br><br>Thanks for your comment.
How strong is the muratic acid? This might work well after doing electrolytic rust removal. There are instructions on this site how to do that. I've used the &quot;right&quot; chemical to do it but I prefer plain old baking soda.
The bottle says 30/33 %. It smells strong. <br> <br>Yes, it would be preferable an electrolytic rust removal, but I wanted only to show this method here.

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