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Easy organic garden any where - the NO DIG GARDEN

Easy organic garden any where - the NO DIG GARDEN
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What is a No dig garden?

A simple, easy and great way to grow your food!!

The No Dig Garden is essentially a great big compost heap containing all the things that plants like best, arranged in layers just like big lasagna.

It can be built any where (on concrete, earth, clay) having no essential relationship to that surface (all though on earth it will contribute to the improvement eventually thanks to MR worm.)
I encourage you to use your imagination and also to follow the principles of both companion planting and permaculture to maximize the benefit of the system.

While me and nature prefer lots of curves and no straight lines or rules, i have formated this instructable with in a set of rules, so those who are not familiar with it can see how it works to start with, when you have the hang of it feel free to experiment.

The advantages: No Bending, NO digging, NO weeding, (use weed free straw), friendly pest balance, (use companion planting / learn to share with nature), Reduced watering, (Keep it moist) Creates humus, Attaches them friendly worms, your crops love it!

 
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Step 1Ingredients

Ingredients
For the purpose of this instructable the ingredients list is for the square 1.5m x 1.5m x 1m shown in the picture.
The garden can be made of pretty much any thing so long as it includes a good equal mixture of nitrogen and carbon rich materials, below are my favourite ingredients.

Ingredients
-- A flat site on any surface - concrete, earth....
-- Forming material of your choice - i prefer chicken wire, you can us any thing to hold it while it settles, some choose to leave the form on.
-- Cardboard boxes, clean, broken down and flat - 0.11m cubed
-- Pea straw - one conventional bale - 0.5mx 0.5m x 1.0m
-- Veggie scraps -8 x 20 litre bins
-- Cow manure - 2 x 20 litre bins (solarised - black plastic bag)
-- Organic Blood and bone fertilizer - 6 handfuls
-- Straw - one conventional bale - 0.5mx 0.5m x 1.0m
-- Compost - two handfuls per plant
-- Roll of chicken wire or shipping pallets for edging
-- Water supply to soak

The total construction cost depends on how much you can acquire ( check out www.freecycle.org in your area) and how much you have to buy.
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34 comments
Jun 17, 2009. 10:41 AMvlatro says:
Love the tutorial, however I would make a few suggestions. In regard to Manure, I believe you have it backwards with the seasoning. Chicken Manure is for the most part ready to use the moment it drops from the chicken. Horse, Sheep and Cow Manure on the other hand is usually Seasoned for 2 years before it's sold for garden use. This as a general rule may not apply to this type of enclosed micro-garden, as fresh chicken manure is acidic, even a little bit could spike the pH. However, fresh manure should be neutralized with Lime before application anyway (unless you are correcting the soil pH). Hint: Invest in a cheap soil pH meter ($29 at most garden stores). Then look up you plants with the Dept. of Agriculture, or at Cornell University's website to determine what the proper pH should be for that specific plant. That will save you lots of confusion later when trying to figure out why your Blueberries did great and everything else died. Most such issues are related to pH. The proportions of ingredients will also vary depending on your climate and the types of plants you intend to grow. In a wet climate for instance, lowering the green plant waste and increasing the straw will help prevent mildew and other fungal infections. The rain will bring ample nitrogen to substitute for the lack of decaying foliage. In a dry climate, it will help the soil retain moisture with the need for excessive watering which can erode many of the nutrients in a raised bed. Likewise, the plants will have individual requirements. Nitrogen in excess (even from organic sources) can damage plants. It aids in the growth of the leaves primarily and will help plants like cabbage. For Peppers and Tomatoes, lot's of dark green leaves may give the appearance of a healthier plant, but lead to reduced fruit production. Thus less Nitrogen would be beneficial. That means less Green matter, and less manure. Drainage is another consideration. Your setup appears adequate for most plants people will grow. But again, research each plant and find out what it needs. Your setup is very well thought out, so multiple box gardens with the proper corrections for different classifications of plants would be easy. What I particularly like about your garden is that a small cold frame could be made to fit over it very easily, allowing for greenhouse growing without the actual greenhouse. For those looking for Blood and Bone fertilizers, here in the US, they are widely available in most garden shops. However, some states have put restrictions on the sale, for fear that you would inhale some while applying it and contract diseases. That's never happened to anyone that I'm aware of, but you know how these frivolous laws get passed... As such, some states require the contents to be sterilized. This is done through irradiation, since heat or chemical sterilization can severely degrade the quality of the product. When the price jumps from $5 a bag to $45, a lot of stores stop carrying it. The good news is, a 10lb bag should last you decades. While it's available everywhere, it is understandably difficult to find in some regions. All in all, a very good article, I give it 9 out of 10.
Nov 8, 2011. 6:09 AMvlatro says:
I stand corrected. I've always free-ranged chickens in the garden between fruiting cycles, leaving the dropping to fall where they may, and never with an adverse affect on the plants. However I understand that people buying manure are likely to apply it in much larger quantities, which would definitely burn the plants.

I can agree on horse manure needing composting for seeds. Ruminants like cows, sheep and goats may digest the seeds, but I've always composted it anyway. It may just be a habit of mine, whether it's necessary or not is debatable. Most people will muck-out the stalls for these animals a pile it for later use anyway. In retrospect, my methods may be born more out of the need for managing the volume of manure and less from a gardening perspective.
Nov 1, 2011. 10:05 PMTamarGirl says:
I thought that Esther Deans had started all this with her book in 1977 called Growing Without Digging, but according to this Wiki article, it's been around a lot longer than that.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/No-dig_gardening
Very interesting read.

And while I have Esther Deans' book, as others have said, I find this Instructable much clearer and easier to follow.
May 2, 2010. 1:35 PMmcshawnboy says:
 What would be a substitute for "Pea Straw"?  I've never heard of it as a commercial product in the USA.  When I Google searched to buy it all the vendors were NZ addresses.
Jul 31, 2011. 12:42 PMmash-2 says:
My best educated guess would be that 'pea straw' is likely to be the same as alfalfa or clover hay here. They are all high protein and nutrient dense forage for supplementing the feed of animals. And, all three are legumes.
May 19, 2011. 5:39 AMtimmycutts says:
The beauty of this is that you can use anything. If you can't get pea straw, something like conventional mulches or even autumn leaves. Pea straw is just like any other straw, it just comes from pea plants, so you should be able to get something similar at your local nursery.
Feb 17, 2009. 8:13 PMBrackinese says:
Ooo, great instructable! Since the roots don't seem to ever hit the ground (or do they?), could this potentially be transported? It might not be easy, but sort of "if necessary," like the diners of old. Could I use any bone for this? Like, the bones I get from chicken thighs? Because while I'm sure it's a good use of resources, I'm on the fence about using dried blood. xD
Sep 6, 2008. 4:37 PMgingertech says:
I really like this idea might try it when i get some spare time *blames GCSE* lol favorited XD
Dec 29, 2008. 7:21 AMnerdmom920 says:
Nice instructable. Any reason why you use a en for your ndg. I am doing it in a 500 square foot area, but don't really want to build a fence around it.
Nov 30, 2007. 1:23 PMBigAl323 says:
I have a gardening book which shows the same type of gardening. They call it "Lasagna Gardening" because of the layers. good job, I was planning on doing the same thing.
Nov 30, 2007. 7:29 PMBigAl323 says:
I just found the book I mentioned. It is called "Lasagna Gardening' by Patricia Lanza. The book has a lot of good information (and pictures). You would probably be interested. Alex
Feb 24, 2008. 8:44 PMplzspoilme25 says:
i love this type of garden, i did mine in a trampoline frame with chicken wire around it, basically as just a compost bin, for my worm farm.....but after it heated up it was a great garden with all the benifits plus the nutrieants from my worms...and its was great to have some pumkin seeds start growing the next year from the left over pumpkins that didnt sell for halloween, that was put thrown in compost.
Jul 4, 2008. 9:23 AMSheShe says:
This is an excellent idea. My dogs seem to find anything that is freshly planted and proceed to dig it up. Sooo... problem solved! Thanks!
May 3, 2008. 11:42 AMspeltbaker says:
agatornz - an update on my NDGarden: i started the process and am most impressed! i do have some weeds, but i'm trying to just smother them until the plants grow big enough to cover them. i haven't done as fancy a job as you (my layers aren't as neat, nor as comprehensive) but my plants seem very happy. i've put in a couple of plots already - i'm surprised how much compostable material our family creates. i'm looking forward to harvest time! thanks again.
Mar 21, 2008. 3:24 PMFull Frontal Graphic says:
favorited for later... looks awesome at first scan
Mar 7, 2008. 12:43 PMspeltbaker says:
thanks - i've looked at several no dig garden plans and yours is the most comprehensive (with great photos i might add). appreciate the help! great instructable.
Nov 7, 2007. 10:24 AMGmastefluffy says:
What country are you in?( if you don't mind me asking). Because they don't sell blood and bone in America.
Nov 8, 2007. 5:13 PMdchall8 says:
You can get blood and bone meals in 5-pound bags at any garden store, nursery, Home Depot, or Lowe's; and you can get it in 50-pound bags at many feed stores. Blood meal is considered a "hot" organic fertilizer and should be used either in preparing bare soil or in very small amounts - no more than 1/2 pound per 100 square feet. If you use it too heavily, directly on soil with roots in it, you may "burn" the roots of your plants.
Nov 5, 2007. 5:59 PMrimar2000 says:
Very useful, thanks.

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Author:agatornz