This is a follow up to the Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine Once you get the machine all put together its time to make it go.
So it's time to drive the motors. And here I've put together a circuit that I think is the absolute cheapest and easiest way to control stepper motors with step and direction signals. It works with many of the free or low cost softwares that produce step and direction signals through the parallel printer port. I'll explain how it works but for those of you who just want to get on with it... The_Next_Step
But I would suggest for those of you who are unfamiliar with circuits to do it on a bread board (see pictures). This way you can easly correct any mistakes and try different things.
This schematic is just to control one motor so for the milling machine you need 3 of these circuits and 3 motors.
From Left to right and top to bottom. I try to draw schematics so that positive voltages are toward the top and ground or negative volge is toward the bottom. Inputs are to the left and outputs to the right. Fist off the voltage that you are going to use to run the motor needs to be stepped down and regulated for the logic chips. I used a 6.2 volt Zener to do this because it's low enought for the logic chips to receive the signals from your printer port and high enough for the outputs to drive many of the standard power FETs, so you may not have to use logic FETs like the schematic shows. So the resistor R1 drops the voltage, the Zener diode regulates it to 6.2 volts and the capacitor C1 filters out any noise from the motor, and this voltage powers the two IC's.
The first IC (CD4516) is called an up/down counter. One signal from the printer port will tell the counter if it will count up or down and the other signal, called step, will increment or decrement the counter by one count. Now were only going to use two outputs from the counter Q1 and Q2. With this binary counting method there are only 4 combinations of output from the counter: 00, 01, 10, and 11. These lines are fed to the A and B inputs of the other IC (CD4028) which decodes these combinations to 4 seprate outputs.
I did a trick here using the C input to work as an Enable input. If the Enable(optional) is connected to the parallel port and the computor tells it to shut off all of the outputs to the FETs will go low(Off). So the four outputs of the decoder drive the FET transistors and the FETs drive the four poles of the motor.
Now everybody wants to know what the light bulb is for. Its not so much whether you use a bulb or a resistor, its that a bulb comes with a socket. You can get these wedge base light bulbs from 1 watt to 20 watts. Start with may be a 4 watt bulb and if you find you need a little more beef you just pull it out and put in a 10 watt bulb. It's really handy. And I found it's good to have some voltage drop there as kind of a ballast for the motor windings. The diodes catch some of the current that comes out of the motor each time the FET transistors turn off. The diode feeds this current back to the supply.
When you get the circuit up and running find a power supply that puts out more voltage than you really need and then change out light bulbs till you get it running smoothly. Some of my stepper motors are 5 or 6 volt and some are 12 volt but it all works out.
So it's time to drive the motors. And here I've put together a circuit that I think is the absolute cheapest and easiest way to control stepper motors with step and direction signals. It works with many of the free or low cost softwares that produce step and direction signals through the parallel printer port. I'll explain how it works but for those of you who just want to get on with it... The_Next_Step
But I would suggest for those of you who are unfamiliar with circuits to do it on a bread board (see pictures). This way you can easly correct any mistakes and try different things.
This schematic is just to control one motor so for the milling machine you need 3 of these circuits and 3 motors.
From Left to right and top to bottom. I try to draw schematics so that positive voltages are toward the top and ground or negative volge is toward the bottom. Inputs are to the left and outputs to the right. Fist off the voltage that you are going to use to run the motor needs to be stepped down and regulated for the logic chips. I used a 6.2 volt Zener to do this because it's low enought for the logic chips to receive the signals from your printer port and high enough for the outputs to drive many of the standard power FETs, so you may not have to use logic FETs like the schematic shows. So the resistor R1 drops the voltage, the Zener diode regulates it to 6.2 volts and the capacitor C1 filters out any noise from the motor, and this voltage powers the two IC's.
The first IC (CD4516) is called an up/down counter. One signal from the printer port will tell the counter if it will count up or down and the other signal, called step, will increment or decrement the counter by one count. Now were only going to use two outputs from the counter Q1 and Q2. With this binary counting method there are only 4 combinations of output from the counter: 00, 01, 10, and 11. These lines are fed to the A and B inputs of the other IC (CD4028) which decodes these combinations to 4 seprate outputs.
I did a trick here using the C input to work as an Enable input. If the Enable(optional) is connected to the parallel port and the computor tells it to shut off all of the outputs to the FETs will go low(Off). So the four outputs of the decoder drive the FET transistors and the FETs drive the four poles of the motor.
Now everybody wants to know what the light bulb is for. Its not so much whether you use a bulb or a resistor, its that a bulb comes with a socket. You can get these wedge base light bulbs from 1 watt to 20 watts. Start with may be a 4 watt bulb and if you find you need a little more beef you just pull it out and put in a 10 watt bulb. It's really handy. And I found it's good to have some voltage drop there as kind of a ballast for the motor windings. The diodes catch some of the current that comes out of the motor each time the FET transistors turn off. The diode feeds this current back to the supply.
When you get the circuit up and running find a power supply that puts out more voltage than you really need and then change out light bulbs till you get it running smoothly. Some of my stepper motors are 5 or 6 volt and some are 12 volt but it all works out.
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Signing UpStep 1: The Circuit Board of Appeals
OK here's what your all looking for. I made a simple PC board layout that includes 3 motor driver circuits connected to a 25 pin D sub Parallel printer port connector. Here's a picture of the layout. At the top of the picture you see a place for a voltage regulator. You can use that or you can put a resistor and Zener Diode in its place(like the schematic shows). On the right edge is a place for the 25 pin D-sub connector that connects to the parallel printer port. You just jam the PC board between the two rows of pins and solder it.
On the left side are places for the lamp sockets. You need to look over the schematic to see where some of the parts go but it's all there.
On the left side are places for the lamp sockets. You need to look over the schematic to see where some of the parts go but it's all there.
Small error in Port Setup printscreen of Tom.
Option 1: set pin 14 Reverse = True (instead of False)
Option 2: set pin 4, 7 and 14 on NU (as Enable is optional). You can than use pins 4,7 and 14 (reverse=true) for something else.
See pictures.
Regards,
Dirk
Could be done.
What software and mechanics will you use ?
Regards,
Dirk
I've looked further and in KCam4 you can only connect 4 motors.
X, Y, Z and A.
And yo have to check if there are pins available on your parallel-port
Pins 1, 16 and 17 are available in the KCam4 software but you have to check if they are hardware available.
Also you have to check if Pronterface is capable of stearing your motors via the parallelport AND via pins (not bit's = processor needed).
This last one can be probably done by exporting to KCam4 and use KCam4 for driving your motors.
Why you need 5 motors ?
X, Y, Z = OK, the spindle you can mis-use to control the fluidwire.
Therefore you need 4 outputs.
Regards,
Dirk
Just tested the following:
Tom has foreseen pins 4, 7 and 14 as pen-enable (optional).
If you put NU in the port-setup of KCam4 in the place where you could enter 4, 7 and 14 everything is still working (because of the flag Motor Enable --> Always On).
Therefore you can use pins 4,7 and 14 (wrong IO-address in KCam4 !!!, &H37A instead of &H378) to control your 4th motor.
Succes,
Dirk
What is the brand and type of the 3D printer ?
So I can see more specs.
A 3D printer is probably just a bunch of steppermotors which work with special software (like e.g. Pronterface).
Is a bit a X-Y-Z-milling machine but with a fluid instead of a spindle with drill ?? Or am I wrong ???
Regards,
Dirk
Regards,
Dirk
The bulbs mentioned are simple car or bicycle ones.
Depends on the powersupply voltage.
Regards,
Dirk
i use 60n06 as mosfet
stepper motor 4.6A
i use power supply 17v
i make limitation circuit for current
but i have two problem
1- 60n06 Heated so much i put heatsink but nothing change
2- voltage across motor is only 1.4v
i don't know why
i use 17v supply voltage
please help
Your ic's should have 3V -> 5V input to work (see datasheet).
If not, check your power supply and part R1 (resistor 1K).
Regards,
Dirk
how powerful are the steppers?
Depends on the motors and powersupply, not the circuit.
Regards,
Dirk
Thank you
+ from the pcb to lamp 2, mass from lamp 2 to motor 2.
....
Do not want to be smart and put all together.. does not work !!! Tried this before :-(
So you need: 3 x 5 wires per motor + 2 for the spindle = 17 wires.
Regards,
Dirk
firstly thanks for your Instructables.
have built the stepper control your design rev 2/11/07...cheep stepper. CD4516 and CD4028.
have built two boards so far.
for both boards, on slow clock test runs fine in forward, but misses Q4 output on the CD4028 every 2nd pass in reverse (tested with LED's) ie: direction to ground.
Apart from this every thing else works ok.
have You come across this before ? , if so, what is the cause / fix.
Regards
Doug
Already replaced the CD4028 ?
Also checked the pcb ?
Re-tip the solderpads whith your solderpin.
Perhaps a very small mistake ?
Regards,
Dirk
Mostly 37xBh.
This must be the same as in KCam4.
Regards,
Dirk
KCam4 just puts pin's high/low. That's all.
The high/low's are translated to on/off trought the fet's.
No programming involved.
Simple.
Regards,
Dirk
THANKS, ED
Use the RFP12N10L Fet's.
Perfect for the job.
Regards,
Dirk
Otherwise (perhaps already) you may crash the motors.
As Tom mentioned,use a simple powersupply (3 - 4,5 - 5 - 6 - 7,5 - 9 - 12) Volt switchable.
Regards,
Dirk
Attached a sketch with markups.
Thanks in advance.
regards,
sanjay
You mixed up the R1 (1K resistor) with C6 (capacitor 220uF).
Regards,
Dirk
No.: 57BYGH420
Frame Size: NEMA23
Step Angle: 1.8 degree
Voltage: 3.6V
Current: 2.0 A/phase
Resistance: 1.8Ohm/phase
Inductance: 2.5mH/phase
Holding torque: 12.6Kg-cm 132oz-in , with unipolar (For Bipolar connecting, the holding torque is 185oz-in)
Rotor inertia: 300 g-cm2
Detent torque: 0.4 kg-cm
Number of wire leads: 6
Weight: 0.7KG
Length: 56mm !
does it hold Nema23 ?
Thank you in advance!!!
I built a circuit board am I'm quite sure its exactly the same, I've tested it and it seems to be working fine.
My question is, when I load up Kcam, and switch on the single step mode and bring up the parallel port I/O display window (the window showing the high or low state of the pins) to test the board, It shows that the step bit is always on high state. when I click on a direction it briefly switches to low state then goes back to high state and remains there. Even if i invert the bit it remains the same.
Should it not pulse i.e. go to high state briefly when a button is clicked and then switch off again?? has anyone experienced this problem or is this the correct way to drive the motors.
I'm not sure what the specs of my motors are yet and thus cannot test if they work, but the output pins on the board do switch in the correct order and thus believe that the reason for my motor not responding is because of this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
below specification of motor
05 hp
240VDC
1500rpm
pmdc
we are making the pm dc steeper motor system with out vfd.
kindly suggest.
Regards
Mahesh Ganpate
altempowerltd
india
I am asking about computer safety ?.
It will not burn cpu or ram or any part of my computer,by residual current from motor?
t hank you
I have a question, where are that wire on your circuit?
thnx in advance ^^,
I only have a question : Would this circuit be enough to make work NEMA 23 stepper motors ?
hey i have a 12v d.c stepper moter so can i use this controller circuit ......plz as soon as possible give me ans...
Hy i used some motors on my board wich are not strong enough, these motors shoud be driven at 12 V. now i bought some new motors with more power.
for my old motors i did not use the light bulbs ore resistors instead, cause i did not need them....
but the new motors should be driven at 4V and 1A.
im from germany an cant find any bulbs with sockets that would match and do not have any 8R power resistor.
so is it possible to use a speaker with 8R??
Construction of the panel, it works perfectly! I would like to ask for help Mach3 program. Kcam works, but not the Mach3. I can not configure step, dir, port, pin, enable ... etc (screenshot) Please help. Thank you! My e-mail: edison01@citromail.hu
Thanks!
I was wondering how many Amps could I draw from this circuit powered by how many volts ?
Thanks!
Thanks Carl
spec of motor?
John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68
I don't use Mach though I run EMC2 http://www.linuxcnc.org/index.php
I am puzzled though, why don't you use voltage shifting transistors at the Step, Direction and if used, Enable inputs so that the entire circuit runs at full voltage, deleting the zener. The ICs are rated at 20 volts. Most fets need higher gate voltage to drive to saturation, (except the logic level parts you specify - but logic level fets I have found are much more expensive) and a couple of level shifter transistors at those inputs would be very cheap - maybe a few pennies.
Anyway, like I said, I plan on building your circuit as my first foray into CNC and I ordered parts to build this, and I'll try what I suggest too, see how it goes. Just curious if you had already considered that option and discarded the idea for some reason I don't see.
I have a question. Can I run this circuit on 3V? because i have 3 3V 2.1A stepper motors. I'm scared of burning them by running at 12V.
Please, help me with something here?
I want to build a CNC mill because my actual project is building a guitar so, for a neck that is about 26 in x 3 in x 2 in; and the soundboard around 15 in x 20 in x 3 mm should I shop for a larger or stronger or faster motor; how large? does it need to be a stepper motor or any motor would do the job?
And the other question is what software do you use and if it is mac compatible?
Thanks,
Jack
so everything appears to be in the correct place
the lights come on when i add power
everything is fine then after the computer gets past bios the lights switch off!
if i take the paralel out they all come back on again!!
any idea what i have done wrong?
and yay i now have one axis working woowoo!!
Thanx for this circuit! It's been quite a chalenge for me to get it to work properly but now I've finally got it to work. First I build it on a breadboard and now it's on a protoboard, the first axis done now, yey!
Further more, I have the same question as Kodex, what kind of resistor do I need if I want to replace the lightbulb. All the resistors, with the +/- same resistance as the lightbulb i've been using, I tried so far are getting very hot during use...
Tom, Anyone...?
Greets,
Wire
If I would like to replace the bulb with a resistor, how determine the ohms I need and the wattage it should handle?
Thanks,
Steve
wat is d fact?
Firstly, I would like to say, that this tutorial is amaizing. Thank you for doing this.
But, I have a problem. I am using stepper motor stp-42d221-03 and I cant figure out, how to connect it with board. It has only 5 wires and all of them are grey (only first one has blue stripe). Please help. I tried connecting it about 100 times and it always goes few steps (about 5-10 depends on wire order) forward and few steps backward (about 2). I need help.
Thanks
Paul
start with this webpage and work forward
thanks
adam
if you need any help message me
you are correct on where the direction, step, and enable need to be.
to do a quick test unplug from computer. make your enable wire HIGH. make your direction wire HIGH or LOW. take a wire from your clock and move it from GROUND to VDD to GROUND......
everytime you touch VDD your stepper should move one step. change the direction wire and try it again. then ground your enable wire. if it stops power to the motor. if all that works everything is working onthe circuit side of the cnc driver.
i have not used mach3 yet but when i do ill let you know if anything needs changed. as far a kcam it works perfectly. just set up the port and the table settings and its works good. i cant seem to get it to run off of g code. only .gc files will work for some reason.
good luck
Tried steps above and unfortunately, motor no move, must be something wrong, I just don't where?
I have a question / Pin No.1 in lpt Running A Drill to Start ?
thanks for this great instructable. However, I have a question according the IC CD4516. Can I also use a different IC instead f the CD4516 because this particular IC is not aviable in my country.
Thanks
i was suggested by my local vendor to use the 12n60 mosfet instead of the 12n10 as given...
now iv built the circuit, the motors power up on 2 axis but dont respond to KCam.
so is it because of the mosfets?
- also the bulb of the driver in the centre doesnt even light up...iv checked the circuit, nothing seems wrong..
suggestions pls?
Thanks and congrats ! ;-)
Jorge L.
Again I need help from the masters here.
I confess I'm lost! Do not know, what may be happening.
All 16 pins are having signal. The other pins 1-4-6-7 CD4028be, do not change status by clicking on the arrows.
Sometimes clicking on the arrows to hear the engine noise of contact very short.
List of board components:
CD4516BE
TC4028BP
K2391 (FET)
7806A
Lamp (i think is 18 volts or +)
Help me please, Thanks!
Damien
Im in the same situation as Damienb and i don't have a parallel connection on my laptop. I'm looking at getting a parallel port expresscard and i wonder will it suffice and provide the correct voltage for the steppers?
Cheers and thanks.
I want to be able to run this from my laptop, which does not have a parallel port
just wondering if you went ahead and used the card bus. Did it work for you? Im in the same situation and I am looking at getting a parallel port expresscard.
cheers.
since i dont have a laptop that has a Parallel port and i can't use a usb to parallel converter for the project, can i use a Parallel expresscard. Will the voltage from these be adequate for the driver board?
http://cgi.ebay.ie/Parallel-Printer-Port-Express-Card-Fashion-PC-Laptop-/250613958248
If anyone can advise, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
What kind of cable should I use?
I am referring to the kind of internal connection!
Thank you all!
John
DB25 (female )<-----------------> DB25 (female).
I checked the pinouts and are all direct and not have wires crossed.
I'm having problems and I am trying to fix it.
I am not able to make my device work.
First, and does not know the wiring of the engine, and not have the data sheet it.
I'm using the motor from Sanyo Denki -
Type 103G775-1511
17.5 V DC
0.25A
1 / 8 Deg / step
I'm using a controlled source of OMRON, Min.17.6V Max.24.0V-1.1A.
And second that I'm not understanding the correct order of connection of the motor wires and the order of the output FETs.
If you can help me with this I'll be very grateful!
Thank you for all!
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9816/tb6560boardb.jpg
But my circuit is a little different and I do have microstepping on mine.
Works good too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68
So I'm pretty good when it comes to these stepper motors.
1-I am using a voltage regulator NJM7806FA in place of the zener. Will I need the capacitor and resistor too?
In place of the 2-RFP12N10L'll use the 2SK2391. Would I have problems?
3-Still in place of CD4516BE CD4028BE and I use TC4516BP TC4028BP and, I believe I'll have no problems with them, am I right?
4-have for me, engines 17.5V 0.25A 1.8deg/step 6 wires, what is the voltage of the light bulb?
Thank you!
Anw the 2SK2391 will work perfectly but i recommend to use lm7806ct instead of NJM7806FA
lm7806ct are really cheap and let you up the voltage to a max of 24v without changing anything, the zener will blow without the right matched resistor if you go over 12v and you can replace the 1k resistor and the 6.2v zener with an lm7806ct
Yes, I use the voltage regulator, the zener is not available here.
Thank you!
Plz reply this time
I found these 2 24v stepper motors extracted from an old hp printer:
pm35l048 and pm55l048
Datasheet: http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/motor_list/pm_motor/pdf/pm55l048.pdf
http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/motor_list/pm_motor/pdf/pm35l048.pdf
I want to know if i could use them and what changes to the board should i do
What are the light bulbd for??? can't i just remove them??
thanks 4 answering.
John
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68
So I'm pretty good when it comes to these stepper motors.
printer.
I am currently using win 7 ult. My system does not have a parallel port.
Bought USB to Parallel cable. I lied to windows, and installed a new
printer. I then changed the port in Properties, from LPT1 to USB2.
This configuration runs HP laserjet 5 and Cal Comp plotter.
Windows thinks plotter is HP 430.
Have not tried Mach 3 yet, but autocad, and solidworks , print just fine.
Setup on Cal Comp 3025 is set for HP-GL 2. Kind of universal data stream.
Hope this helps.
no need heat sinks, no need fans, no need "inductive kick protection" diode.
Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVn75NmoPUU
I hope so because I have 12 of them here...
and the parts list
Somebody can help me please?
I solder my circuits today and I see I don't have these components.
I use a 12v power supply but does on this circuit board the tension is about 12v to the motors?
If yes, how can I lower the supply voltage of the motors to 4.1v please?
I got 1amp per phase.
What is the voltage of the motors when we use a 12v power supply on this card?
Too high voltage or too low is bad for the motors,
my motors are rated at 3v 1.2 amp, I'm currently running at 36v and about 1amp, my speed and acceleration are great. And my motors get warm but not to hot to handle so their not being overpowered.
Yes.
I have one last question I have to use 12v bulbs but how do I choose the wattage of my light bulbs?
One amp at 12 volts = 12 watts, I'd suggest being concervative and shoot with 11 watts.
Or am I way off?
I'm in the process of getting the driver board complete as well as the actual machine. While attempting to set up EMC2 for this board, the pin out can't be matched perfectly to the board, as there is no X-enable, Y-enable, or Z-enable in the software config. Is it perfectly necessary to have an enable for the motors to work and I need to find some other software to use or should the control board still function without the computer sending a signal to the enable pins?
Thanks.
Can i substitute the mosfets for some kind of transistor
If you haven't gotten the mosfets yet you can get then from Digi-key for under $10.00 and they will ship them through usp for around $3.00
So I went to test one of the axis as I'm close to completing all three, and when I hooked up the parallel port, I was unable to get the motor to spin... I have a setup where I moved the drivers receptor parallel port off of the board, and used stranded wire to attach the pins to the correct places... do you know if the fact that stranded wire and data don't play nice would cause the motor not to move, or should I look elsewhere for a different problem?
Unipolar motors can have 5 or 6 wires, you can wired a unipolar motor with 6 wires like a 5 you've got the 4 extremities of the coils and you put together the two other wires.
I'm just learning electronics so, given a 12V power supply, wouldn't the other components drain voltage away from the motor, making it possibly not work?
Just wondering as this board doesn't look too complicated even for me. Thanks!
We isolated the problem causing component.
It was the stupid CD4028 Decoder. Apparently the ones I got were chinese and very fake. They only work once or twice and then refuse to work at all. There was no problem with the FETs nor the counter. We have totally reverse engineered this and understand this controller from start to finish. As such we have made our own version of it and we may further refine the electronics on this circuitry to include gate drive circuitry so the FETs may operate in the saturation region. This will allow me to add indicator LEDs. Also I use a fairchild decoder and a motorola counter with my controller and it works superbly.
We implemented this on vero and tested it with the computer and as a standalone drive.
The problem here is that people try to copy this off without understanding or attempting to understand the electronics. You will not be able to troubleshoot this circuit.
Its made as a mirror.
I've made today the same, I've noted it after drilling the holes.
i have constructed this controller with some modifications such as i opto-isolated the logic circuit from power Mosfets and instead of zener diod i am using voltage regulator with resistance in series to limit the current. the circuit is working fine i have checked the step sequence its perfect.
the problem arise with motor i am using 2.2V stepper motor with 3A per phase 1.8 degree step. In kally cam i am using 2800 steps per inch as per my requirements
i have used 12V to 50V at 3A but not been able to resolve my problems as
1)the motors getting too hot in a 4 min run
2)motor skip steps after 15IPM
3)there is strange noise with the motor and its vibrating too much
i tested with different motors but got the same noise every time
some how i read some articles and they say there might be a possibility that with the micro-stepping i can increase the speed and get rid of noise
any help on this matter would greatly appreciated
the only other I can help with is that this controller wont do microstepping.
John
We are testing this circuit on the trainer and are currently supplying the CLK pin of the counter with a continuous square wave.
We then took the outputs from the decoder and plugged them into LEDs.
The sequence was absolutely perfect.
The problem came with the MOSFETs , we are using 12N60 in place of 12N10 and they donot seem to switch properly.
We connected the gates of the MOSFETs to the output of the logic circuitry and thus each time a 3.25-5.25 V is passed to the gate it should short the drain and source to ground the coil and charge it , hence moving the motor.
The issue arises here....12N60
http://www.utc-ic.com/spec/12N60.pdf(datasheet for reference) is not swtiching properly. We connected the MOSFETs independently and simply passed a 15 V to the gate and took a wire from the drain and input it to the motor..the motor just vibrated. Can someone tell me a suitable replacement for 12N60 ?
12N10 is not available here...
I removed the diode that was connected with the motor source (freewheeling diode). Then I suppose , the MOSFETs were not receiving ground properly!
So what I did was , directly ground the MOSFET gates on the logic trainer , then individually move the ground pin to the voltage source (the IRFZ44 's Gate threshold voltage is about 5V impressive).
So the gate voltage when applied in the correct sequence moved the motor correctly ! SO far the MOSFET switching mechanism is working flawlessly!!
To make it clear i am only driving the motor using the MOSFETs. Directly applying the voltage at the gate while grounding the rest of the gates..
Anyone with knowledge on this PLEASE please comment!
I wasn't paying due attention when I built this circuit and I have soldered the end of the diodes to the part of the board where the stepper motor wires go. The diodes are supposed to be soldered directly next to them.
I can't see it will change anything but can anyone see a problem with soldering the stepper motor wires next to the diodes?
I have marked the 2 positions I am referring to under the mosfets.
Thanks
Steve
John
I construct this controller but i wont control only the Y axis! The X and Z when I connect the motor, the lamp are ON and the motor vibrate! Any ideia for this problem?
Sorry my english
Thanks
If i change the wires, in same posicion of the Z axis to the X or Y axis, the motor vibrate in X or Y! But in the Z axis he works fine!
Another thing you can try is hooking up the driver from the X or Y axis to the Z axis to find out whether they work on the Z-motor or not.
If you are not using the same motor, it's possible that the driver is not providing enough current to energize the coil.
I tested with a same motor in the 3 Axis and only works fine in the Z!
How i configure the software?
Bye
What software are you using? I'm not the expert in terms of configuring Mach3 or Kcam, but I think you need to make sure that you port address matches the pins you are driving. I think the author for this intructable went through the software settings for Kcam. I think another member gave the following solution:
MedalHead says:
I figured it out.
you have to go to "Setup" and then "Port Setup" and then configure the Pins.
for x step/ direction it is Bit 0,1 and Pin 2,3 .
for y step/ direction it is Bit 3,4 and Pin 5,6
for z step/ direction it is Bit 6,7 and Pin 6,7
Maybe you also have to set "inverted" to "true" for the enables for X, Y and Z.
does that help?
Good Luck
I'm go verify the board! The configuration it is al-right!
Tanks for your help
I have studied your instructable with a great interest. Some things were not clear. oul it be the fact that the KCam program was not installed correctly because i don't see the increment of the numbers whichever axis i try as in your video.Can you suggest a book or books i can read or online course i should take to tackle everything that has to do with CNC. Please advise me.
Thanks again
i think i used wrong Zener Diode. bocz i found that only my ICs became *hit and every thing else is just fine...
PLZ PLZ give me details about Zener Diode.
If you can't figure it out, I guess you might want to consider substituting the Zener voltage regulation with something like LM7806 dc-dc regulator to regulate the voltage down to 6V. LM7806 is a bit more robust to over voltage and over current.
Does it possible to controlle the 0.75 HP Motors with this controller
if Yes then please guide me how
thanks
-Nishant
thanks for replying
can you tell me the reason why we can't do that.
he has a bunch of other sites where he talks about this projects a bit more.
i maded up this controller . it works totally fine on old pcs (older computers of my friends) , but it does not wokr with my new PC.
i tested my parallel port. it works fine too. if i connect LEDs to parallel port and run Kcam then leds shows that parallel port is working fine. but my controller is not working with it.....so can anyone tell me why?
my pc=
Intel DG41WV MoBo
core 2 deo 7500
4 gb ddr3
nvidia geforce 210 1GB
500 GB HDD
Win 7 , XP sp2, Ubuntu.
i tested with win7 and xp.but it doesn't wokr...............
plz plz plzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz HELP
so guyz plz tell me what to do now?....plz help...............
i have a problem with the software, i set the steps to 1000 per inch and then
i open the manual control, and set the steps to 0,001 but when i click on the arrow buttons the "digital" display don't change and stays on 0,00000
Anyone have a idea ?
thanks ...
I have the same problem!
Do anyone know how to solve this?
Thanks
Greg
you have to go to "Setup" and then "Port Setup" and then configure the Pins.
for x step/ direction it is Bit 0,1 and Pin 2,3 .
for y step/ direction it is Bit 3,4 and Pin 5,6
for z step/ direction it is Bit 6,7 and Pin 6,7
Good Luck
i tryed what you wrote, but when i hit "apply" the settings go back to where they are.
does that help?
I copied the folder where you wanted me to but all emc2 does is terminate win errors.
I think the newer version needs an updated config set..
Can you help?
Thanks!
> -1 Operation not permitted"
There is a fix for this at:
http://www.mailinglistarchive.com/html/emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net/2010-09/msg00127.html
If you get a memory error there are links for that too, but this is the error I recievied after installing emc2 w/ ubuntu 10.04 from the live cd, and this article helped me get the software working.
Good luck
Mark
I give 12v on the circuit but the motor knob only vibrates it does not move in either directions. then i checked voltage through multimeter at the bulb it shows between 4 to 5 voltage. so do i require to give more voltage to the circuit.??
I hope to have some time soon to build the router table..
i hope this photos help people how to connect the parts..
( i will not build anything in the future in prototype board.. i spend double time in soldering than i would spent to print & eatch a board )
Too much Soldering but it work fine. Tested with Kcam.
How are you? I built the same board like that and would like the pictures for clarification. I can't really get the pics from here because the pics are being saved small. I will message you my email if you will send the originals to me, ok? Thanks,
-Tre
If yes, what is the proper voltage & current that should I apply to the circuit .
Astrosyn - Shinkoh communication industry co. ltd
type: 23PM - C109
5.4 V/phase
1.5 A/phase
1.8 deg/step
Lenght - 80mm
diameter - 55mm
shaft diameter - 6mm
6 wire motors and 8 ohms resistance on each coil.
What do you mean about acceleration? I set things in k-cam like McGuire did, if that's what you mean.
if ground the commons together to powersupply and hold any one wire to the positive(we will call this #1) then touch any of the remaining wires also to the positive one of three things will happen, the motor will setp slightly to the right, slighty to the left, or no difference.. we now number all the wires like this, first wire is #1, no difference is #3, slightly right is #2 and slightly left is #4, thats the order they would go in on the board...
I really hope I explained it well.
John
can be pin 16 & pin 17. u are right woodspinner.. :)
Spindle CW ( it mean clockwise rotation ?) & (CCW is the opposite?)
if so then we should connect to one pin of them (pin 16 in normal & pin 17 is inverted) and the other to ground ?
this pin give 3,3V so we need a relay for 5V?
Your reading 3.3 v on your output pins?
are you also reading 3.3 v on say pin 10? which is an input signal pin?
Are you using the zenier/resistor for the logic power supply or a voltage regulator?
John
i am using zener..
I'm not certain, but I believe this circuit needs a 5v output from the port.
i am not getting how i can connect the circuit with the Parrallel port.
i tried it through Pin no 2,3,4 for only X axis.
Does it enough for controlling A Single Stepper motor throgh KCam.
Plz Reply its urgent
thanks Nishant
2 - X Step
3 - X Dir
4 - X Enable
5 - Y Step
6 - Y Dir
7 - Y Enable
8 - Z Step
9 - Z Dir
14 - Z Enable
I got what you mean.
one more problem is i have a stepper motor PM35S-048-Zyq6 and i haven't any detail of that Motor. I inquired on NMB Company Site but i am not lucky for getting Information. it has five wires black, red, orange, Yellow and Coffy, and i am confused which one should i connect through the LED(Lamp). Also I haven't any techanical detail of Motor like Voltage,Amp,Resistance etc.
If any one knows please Help Me Thanks
http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/motor_list/pm_motor/pdf/pm35s048.pdf
the 5-wire motors is the same with 6-wire but the common cables are connected and it has one lead than 2.
connect the multimeter to the first wire and check the resistance to all the others.
the one with half resistanse is the common cable that u should connect to the bulbs.
*attention.. in 5-wire motors cause the common cables are connected u will get 3 different measurements.
the bigger measure is from 2 coils.
the middle is one coil lead to the other.
the smaller is from one coil lead to the common ( in the middle of the coil)
check the photo. in your case the common wire is 5 & 2 connected to one lead.
the numbers i use are theoretical. In 6-wire motors the 2 and the 5 are the common. Probably in 5-wire motors the 3rd wire is the common.
Hope to help and sorry for my english. I am not good enough.
it does not rotate in either of any direction.
I don't know why this happen can any one help me
some one plz help me...and will it make a problem if i dont use bulbs?
plz reply ...i really need help
it seem that it work with irf530. it is better than the mosfet in this schematic..
at 5 volt all the axis work fine.. at 12 volt the y axis is not working.
has anyone has any clue.. i suppose that one of the ic for the y axis is not taking the right power. (probably more and it missfuction.)
I had to use two 11 watt bulbs in series so I wouldnt blow the bulbs straight off, they run brighter than before but no burn outs yet. Trying to find some 25-30 watt 24volt bulbs.
I'll keep you posted on the results
bipolar steppers have only 4 wires..
most unipolar motors can work as bipolar too if u dont connect the middle wires..
Anyone has eagle files for this board?
again thank you thank you and thank you . .
If you do me a sketch, how i can put the lm7806ct for up the 24V?
Thank you for your help.
Attila
Does anyone have any idea about the mistake?
Thanks for your help.
John
I used the smallest and it has plenty of torque for a small mill.
John
/pm_motor/pdf/pm55l048.pdf
It says it runs on 24v. Thats no problem on my end, but can this circuit operate not one, but two?
I also have a http://www.mitsumi.co.jp/latest/Catalog/compo/motor/m42sp5_e.html it also is a 24v stepper.
The two are from a HP Printer (older office jet), and the second came from a scanner. I didn't know what the bulbs are for, and if needed, what specs i need. I would like to get them from digi-key.com.
Also is there a way to make the driver input from a joystick, like for left right forward and reverse, with two triggers for up and down for the Z axis?
PICTURES ARE IN ORDER OF LISTING!
Can i even use this.
SamR.
yo desarrolle el el circuito lo conecto a la pc y use kcam y no no funciona bien lo configure en una forma que desia unos de los comentarios y de todas manera no trabaja bien
yo lo que les pido es que me muestren con imagenes cual es la configuracion real del puertos en KCAM es que lo estoy haciendo para un proyecto de nota semestral de la universidad y lo necesito lo mas rapido posible porque se termina el semestre en inicios de julio
i cant seem to find it in the internet. here is whats written on the motor.
astrosyn stepper
type 20LM-C355-P8W
number T8726
minebea co. ltd
thanks
and cgi.ebay.ch/3-St-Schrittmotor-23LM-C355-P8W-2-Phasen-CNC-Roboter-/220571961128
20 = NEMA size in 1/10 inch i.e. 20 10ths = 2"
L = Laminated Stack Stepping Motor ( same for P and K )
M = Step Angle 1.8°
C = Phase Hybrid( Same as M,Q,K,H,Z )
3 = Motor Length = 49.5 mm
5 = ?
5 = ?
P1-P9 = Custom with pulley ( 01-99 = Custom , G1-G9 = Custom with gear )
V = With connector ( W = Without connector , None = Without connector )
Nothing else as far as torque goes. You sure you don't mean a size 23? whats the diameter of the motor?
looking forward to completing this project
more power and godbless
The step pin for the axes are 2,5,and 8(that's X, Y, Z) and the direction pins are 3,6, and 9.
To access this in KCam, you go to Setup>Port Setup>LPT Setup, then select the Pin Setup button.
Of course from here, you can also set up the pins for your limit switches, spindle relay, and anything else to make your CNC more productive/safe. Hope this helps.
Is there a cirquit drawing of the 25 pin plug?
Some pins are connected but don't go anywhere.
@Shaadmahmud:
Nice job!!!! Hope to get so far like you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSCpg1Hybnw
Thanks,
Sam
You need to set all the pins you´re using before the joging will work.
Also to anyone else building this circuit, you can use a 4029ic counter instead. Just connect pin 9 to + power.
Both types should be fine, and don´t worry about space, there´s plenty to fit even fatter diodes.
thanks
chris
I built the driver but I have a few issues.
I'm using 4-phase unipolar stepper motors (sm4202)
here are the specs:
12 vdc, 150 mA
3.6 deg/step
detent torque 80g -cm
holding torque 504g -cm
there are five wires: black, white, green, red, brown.
could you point me out the exact way of connecting this motor to the driver.
Also I'm using a 24V adapter to power it up. When I go to Kcam and press on the controls it does not move. But when the motor is somehow hooked up to the driver, I noticed that when i accidentally touched the 25-pin connector with one of the wires the light bulb lit up and the motor twitched (did one tiny step).
Im using the Kcam on a WinXP sp2, if that can help..
other than that random twitch I cannot get any other controlled action through the computer.
Some help would really be appreciated, Thank you!
DAvid.
I have been looking at all if not most of the homebreww cnc projects, there are some very intersting and awsome ones out there. One thing that I have not seen as of yet is an automatic tool changer. That would be the next step in the homebrew cnc project, even if it only changes out 2-3 tools would still be an amazement. 10 years ago this was unherd of, now it's everyday biz.
Amazing! just amazing.
I've built your circuit and it works from the first time for the three motors ,but I've noticed that there is some lose steps while jogging any of motors ?
So I've tried to change the Kcam application priority to Real Time instead of Normal or High and the result was smooth and perfect stepping but with program halt while excuting any G-code till the end of the file !!
Another issue for the mach3 ,after setting the Pins map in program setting still not driving any motor ?!!
It means that the only program work with your circuit is the Kcam ... while the Mach3 is stronger than Kcam by far ....
What program did you use to create the pcb and convert it to code.
This is an awsome project, Great work.
i have some problems with the circut, when i disconnect the parallel cable the light of the channel where a motor is connectet turns on and the motor gets power and gripp, but when i connect the board to the pc the light goes off and the motor powers down.
And still having the problem that i can't use the manual control in kcam like shown here in the tutorial.
thanks for help
Any suggestions or explanations would be welcome.
i readed something about current limiter for this. did i destroy my motors by not having the light bulbs in line?
yesterday they ran for a little moment.
first i had and led with resistor instead of the light bulb there, but i noticed that this dont work, because of the led, it limits the current, so the motors were not able to drive.
please help me! ;)
I am about halfway through making this project, and was just happy that i finally got the cnc mill in one of my classrooms to cut out the PCB, the front side came out great but the backside did not so I will re-engrave it today. Thank you for putting so much detail into this project. My teacher is making this mill my final project for the class.
-Dan
I thought stepper motors have four wires. but from the looks of these pics, they have six? or five? what kind of stepper motors are specified for this project? the parts list did not say. thanks
For this driver unipolar works, you can google the schematiks, bibolar does't work.
I picked up 8 free printer and scanners this weekend from a local electronics recycling place and my kids and I had a blast dissassembling them. I was hunting for stepper motors, while they liked the springs, cogs, and any excuse to use Daddy's power tools.
I now have a great supply of stepper motors, but they're almost all 4-wire. Will they work with this circuit?
http://electronics-diy.com/stepper_motors.php
cheers
I know there are control pins, would I use a relay?
If so, how?
if not, how?
is the Pix where we can se the pbc mirror inverted ?
Becouse i mirror inverted the plan so the little "1" is readable on the
board. What is right to do ?
thanks .,..
theres a very nice video tutorial on the devolopers site.
First of all, great project, that grea tthat im re-building it :)
Im almost finished with the hardware(z-axis is missing) but rest works fine.
and today i also finished with the "software" i did it the chemical way :)
I only have a problem with getting the motors working.
The software i use is Mach 3 and im already into it.
that means im so far, i can meassure the signals coming from the parallel port to the platine(with an oscilloscope). i got the good stuff :D
signals for direction and steps are fine (at 4516). and they get good as well to the 4028.
but i dont get any signals on the output of that ic, and its not defect.
this isnt a reason of a wrong connected motor?
btw, i should say that im using a supply voltage a little above 6V. otherwise it dosnt work that far, it does now...
I would be happy for some ideas to get it work :)
maybe its also interesting, that i just connected 4 wires from the motor.
only hat one with the diodes before.
i know taht my motors run with only 4 pins connected, i ued them in another circuit.
cheers
what program did you use to make the gc, gbr, drl files ?
thanks ...
if servo's can be used for this for a small project i like to try
servo's run by pulse same as the axe motor so i would thank
if so please send me a yes or no in my index
Am planning to make a 4' x 2' CNC Laser Machine. does this controller and those motors support that?
If not, any suggestions for the modification?
Awaiting replies...//MEROG
I hope to build a machine about the size you mention eventually but, for now a mini dremel size mill will give me experience with the CNC learning curve. Some one on one of the forums can tell you how to calculate it all out.
I have my 3 axis board functioning with 3 2amp steppers now on 12volts. I plan on going up to 24 volts for the final version. Tom had stated that he had his version running on 30 volts. (look in comments).
My only problem with the circuit at this point, is I for the life of me, can not get the Z axis light to shut down (go off) between pulses. the darn light stays on all the time and pin 9 on the 25 pin printer port will only go low on the down movement of the z axis! that light is drivin'n me up the CNC WALL!
This has been a great project, I would not have attempted to build a cct board and do a lazer print transfer if it had not been for the insructables. Thank You Tom McWire (Mcguire) whom ever you may be!
JB
ps;Help me get the light off!
there should not be an impact on weather you have a drill of a laser on the end.
Thank you.
Awaiting reply...//MEROG
Can this board handle that?
Awaiting reply...//MEROG
I've seen that the author uses KCam and mention something about yellow arrows. Are there somthing similar in EMC2 to test the circuit?
Thanks!
BUT... I could only make one motor to run. It's the Y axis. The X and Z I wasn't able.
I've notice that the chad files are not for the Tom driver. I tried to reconfigure the PINs, but no luck. Here are my changes:
linksp Xen => parport.0.pin-10-out
linksp Yen => parport.0.pin-07-out
linksp Zen => parport.0.pin-25-out
###
### If you want active low for this pin, invert it like this:
linksp Xstep => parport.0.pin-12-out
linksp Xdir => parport.0.pin-11-out
linksp Ystep => parport.0.pin-09-out
linksp Ydir => parport.0.pin-08-out
linksp Zstep => parport.0.pin-06-out
linksp Zdir => parport.0.pin-05-out
The problem is that emc2 expect as a PIN IN the numbers 10,11,12, and the 25 is not expected at all. So, when it starts, it crash. If I comment out those lines, emc2 starts but only Y axis works.
Any sugestions?
So, for example, PIN 5 from the driver goes to PIN 2 of the parallel port.
Here is my map:
25 -> 1
5 -> 2
6 -> 3
7 -> 4
8 -> 5
9 -> 6
10 -> 7
11 -> 8
12 -> 9
All GNDs to the same PINs.
And the configuration file goes acoordingly to this map.
Now, I'm going to build the frame. :D
I've made up Tom's pcb of his circuit and have two of the driver circuits running. The ones on either end of the board work, the middle one does not.
I can trace the signals with a scope up to the mosfets and all three circuits look the same. On the circuits that work I get the power supply voltage, around 16 volts, on the output which pulses to zero when stepping but on the circuit that does not work I get around 7 volts and it just goes to zero when stepping no pulses at all. I've double checked the traces and components and replaced everything with new parts except for the diodes which I tested out of circuit and seem ok. I'm hoping that it's something stupid I did and maybe someone else has had this happen who could point me in the right direction to fix this.
I'm really at a loss here!!!
HELP!!!!!!!
BIll
I decided to call a friend who designs circuits for a living and went through the circuit over the phone. While I was measuring the power supply voltage at the rail where the bulb socket hooks to I was measuring 7 volts at the actual pad on the socket!!! Turns out to have been a bad trace but it was right under my crappy soldering job so I couldn't see it.
Now I really feel stupid,
Oh well, now at least I can get back to putting this together.
Bill
HEY!! I'm machining stuff!! It works!!
Also, going over to the MC14028BCPG (also in theory compatible with the CD4028), I see that all the outputs to the FETs seem to be stuck high.
Any ideas?
This is my board I just finished. I removed the light sockets and did some reworking to the top of the board so I could mount some lugs for the motors. I built a current limiter to put in the place of the bulbs.
can you please tell me if this driver will drive stepper motors 0f 400oz. i need good torque . also can you give me the current limitor details. thanks in advance.
my email: naren309@gmail.com
naren
I guess it could be possible to emulate signals in the STEP and DIRECTION pins, but how?
Anyone know?
Thanks!
thanks guys
honestly I am still newbie in electronics and microcontroller,,
And I'm still confused about making the motor drivers for my STEPPER,,
This is the specification of my STEPPER:
Step Angle: 1.8 Degree
Positional Accuracy: 5%
Number of phases: 2
Temperature rise: 80 degree max.
Dielectric strength: 500 VDC
Insulation resistance: 100 Mohm (500 VDC)
Insulation class: B
Radial play: 0025 mm (450 g load)
ohm: 0.76
Ampere: 1.25
Volt: 0.94
wire: 8
Any one!! please help me to find a controller for this STEPPER??
how much are driver"s max speed?
thanks
good evening
how can i connect the driver to the pc? i dont know whether my pc is reading my driver or not. any ideas? thanks!
I am new to this driver as well and ran into many problems building it. once you get it right it works well, just dont give up you will get it.
in my y axis when i jog in kcam the lamps go on when i jog up and goes off when i jog down. it acts like a light switch. no reaction from the motor. i have brand new ic's on y axis.
in the z axis the light remains lighted all the time despite anything i push on the kcam. no reaction from the motor.
i really dont know what is the problem because i have minimal background on electronics. im a mechanical engg student >.<
some of those things on the mobo look like flash chips, is there any programming involved in this circuit?
Can you tell me can I use 3 LEDiodes with resitors on place 3 light bulbs?
Sorry about my English.
Read:
http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/4943/Resistance-of-LED-s
what type of drill and drill bit can i use?
any suggestions. Are small hand drill used in making holes in pcb enough?
thanks guys!
i recently finished the circuit. im just wondering on how will i know if its works. also i tried connecting it to the pc through a 25 pin parallel port connection but i dont know whether the cpu read my connection or not. here are my questions.
-im using KCam on a windows XP SP 3. is this ok?
-when i look at printers and faxes at the control panel i dont see any connected hardware, is this normal?
-im also using a minebea PM42L-048 stepper motor. will this run from a 12 volts power supply? and more importantly, does this controller circuit support this motor? here is the link
http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/motor_list/pm_motor/pm42l048.shtml
-its 6 wires are arrange like this(pinion side facing ground)
red white grey
flesh black orange
how will i know the right configuration?
-ive read the kcam tutorial but how can i test my motors using kcam?
lots of thanks for you guys. ive invested so much time and energy (and money too) so i really (and badly) want to finish this project)
this is a great website with a great community!
more power and godbless.
please elaborate
Thanks
you can try usb-to-parallel port connector even though i have not tried it.
thank you
http://www.tormach.com/document_library/SB0012_Control_Computers.pdf
They don't seem to like them very much, or laptops in general.
instead dad salvaged me a old laptop from work that they were going to throw out which had a paralel so i will see how that works,if the worst comes to the worst my desktop has a parallel header on the motherboard i could wire up
but most of them say in their manuals that they are only for use with printers
I built a cnc based on stewart's plan. Control is provided through mach3 run from my notebook. I also do'nt have a parallel port so got a pcmcia from http://www.transdigital.net/info.htm
Cheers.
if you cant see it try using zamzar.com or movavi.com and use their online youtube download applications
I cant find it on istructables.
i have a few questions about the bread board layout:
1) is the black bit (negative terminal i belive) pointing upwards?
2) what is the big white wire coming out of the top of the far right hand diode in the photo?
3) how are the power rails connected (which ones are negative and which are positive)
4) how is the bulb connected (is it between the motors common and positive?)
thanks alot
ooda55 :)
as the stepper motor has 5 wires (1 ground and 4 steps)
the parralel port pulses for a step, the chips count up to four steps incrementing from wire 1 to 4
then on the fifth pulse it returns to the first cable
im not sure exacly what the IC's do but i belive that is the basic princible, please tell me otherwise if im wrong :)
Im hoping to have this working soon.
Will motors from scanners and printers work, or should I look for something beefier on ebay?
I salvaged some motors from an old epson track feed printer they had thown out at work. Two of the motors are the same about 2.5 in squared, not sure of the specs but they look beefy enough for what i want to do. the other one is like a servo motor, has an encoder built in on the backside of it. Looked up the numbers, said it was 30vdc 60w. Have not used any of them yet but do plan on it soon. try and find a scap printer, one like what they use for shipping, printing invoices, purchase req, ect.ect...you know those big track feed printers. Hope that helps you find something to tinker with.
i got some insanley geared down motors off ebay for mine and i think they are actually to small and geared down (unless i want to wait 24 hours to drill a few holes :P )
go for the beefy motors, then at least you know you are guarenteed enough power for most tools
can i use a MC14028 decoder instead of a CD4028 for the decoder.
and can i use a B8145 up/down binary counter instead of a CD4516 for the up/down counter?
thank you
ps i bought those ic from www.allelectronics.com
decoder- http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/4028/DECODER/-/1.html
up/down counter- http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/74LS191/UP/DOWN-BINARY-COUNTER/-/1.html
but i tried mathcing up components and found it didnt work
you are probably better getting the exact components (try ebay and farnell)
I took the parts list and meshed it with the board. I am not sure if I even have one thing right on it, but I thought it can't hurt to ask. I have never built anything like this. I have been readin up on it a lot. So if I got some thing wrong can I get it corrected thanks
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4272846177_a705393621_o.jpg
Tom
i have a problem
the port on the driver port is a 25 pin male and the port on the back of my cpu unit is a 25 pin female
how can i connect them? i cant seem to find a male/female printer cable.
any ideas? thanks!
Interesting project
are these softwares ok? willthey work with this project? thanks again
Has anyone successfully made this parallel port controller and interfaced to a program to run it? What works best?
I spent the money, and took the time to build it, but it doesn't work.
When I send data from the PC to the controller my motors just jitter around.
I have gone over my circuit 5 times and found no errors. Do you know
anything about this problem? I used the parts specified, but it just won't work. I even used a 5V regulator in place of a diode, still no luck. Do you have any advice?
And yeah, I've been there done that too.
The datasheet for this IC can be found at http://pdfdata.datasheetsite.com/web/233949/ULN2003.pdf
here is the link I have for less expensive parts
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G5014A
place is called electronics gold mine
I just couldn't find that exact part number in a search.
Just make sure whatever part you get is a DIP (with pins)
like the one in the link.
Shawn.
bluumaxcnc.com
I was looking for the CD4516BE and three of them only cost £0.77
are there any cheaper places people have used?
thanks alot guys, this is a brilliant instructable
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1607655&action=view&CMP=e
Reasnoble price (about £1.90)
Free UK postage (beats the £12 mouser and digikey wanted!)
Sorry about my English.
To use the Linux configuration, first download and install the latest release of EMC2. The easiest way to do this is grab the live cd from the site (see installing Linux CNC link below). Once Ubuntu and EMC2 are installed, place the attached folder in ~/emc2/configs/, where ~ is the user name. It has been a while since I set this up, but it should run out of the hole with this configuration. Minor details will need to be adjusted to customize it for the particular setup: home position location, feed rate, table size, and the Z axis. I have the x and y axis setup for a 1/4-20 rod, but I used a 10-24 rod on the Z axis. All of these adjustments are made in the 'stepper_inch.ini' file using a text editor. For more details, take a look at the documentation. See Chapter 5, page 31 of the PDF manual for help. Also, I would not alter any of the file names, including the 'stepper' folder, unless you are willing to edit the file directories so EMC can find the associated files.
Installing Linux CNC
Documentation
I hope this is useful to others for getting EMC2 running.
i just want to ask if this project is compatible with EAGLE pcb lay out editor as the CAD software and MACH3 as the CNC software. please help. thanks!
I have a laser etcher/engraver at work, and I bet it would etch out a nice circuit board.
PM me if you would on this! Thanks
thank you
It was awesome working on the circuite after many misses i hit the mark ,now my nema23 is moving but the smaller nema14 is just humming even though the wire sequence is appropriate.
The bigger one is moving but at times even it stops & humms ,the motor is not providing enough torque to move the machine either.
Plz help
If you can please tell how many torque required from stepper motors?
thank you again Mr Tom
torque is the force which a motor generates, the amount of torque you need depends upon the mechanical requirement of ur machine/job.
Thank You
What I cannot make out yet is what phase excitation this is. Probably single stepping. I can get better performance with half stepping (1-2 phase excitation) than I can with full.
will you plz share the information like schematic/copper/bom etc.
Thank You
http://pico-systems.com/images/stepdirh.pdf
I did add two large electrolytic capacitors to squelch noise that came from the SLAs PWM. But other than that, that is about it. I'm going to point to point construct the drives for my machine.
I hope that information helps you out.
It was awesome working on the circuite after many misses i hit the mark ,now my nema23 is moving but the smaller nema14 is just humming even though the wire sequence is appropriate.
The bigger one is moving but at times even it stops & humms ,the motor is not providing enough torque to move the machine either.
Plz help
Friend the parallel port male connector which you will solder on ur pcb do consist of 25 pins, facing the connector on your side the left most is 1 & the right most is 13 , just below that 13th pin is 14 i.e in the lower line & left most is 25.
which means top 13 are left to right & bottom/lower 12 are right to left, pin 18 to 25 are ground.
if any further information you need feel free to mail on amitsharma2904@gmail.com
Enjoy
muh_sabri1967@yahoo.com
thanks alot
my E-mail lunuwaththa@ymail.com
hi all
i build same circuit and same software
but i have problem when i try move the stepper motor i try to measure the voltage in pin direction but it very small change its maybe 50 m volt and i think it must 5 volt any suggest
What program do you use to open the GBR,GC,and DRL files
are there any setting with kcam software ? I can't control stepper motor
please please give some tutorial for it
I use the Proteus in the design of a pcb , but when I transfer circuit file to (dxf ) and open the program the machine kcam unloaded path Copper I hope you to let me know the program that you use in the design of printed circuit, which you empty copper around the track and you very much
And to excuse twice in the use of English language
Then in KCAM import file /gerber file.
If you don't see your files select All file types.
Tom
If you go to the link above you can see pics of my version. It looks like a flag :). Flip through towards the middle.
http://www.cs.mun.ca/~rod/Winter2007/4723/notes/motor/motor1.gif
http://www.electro-tech-online.com/attachments/electronic-projects-design-ideas-reviews/30500d1245351513-help-me-bipolar-stepper-motor-stepperdriver.gif
Or should I try to find 25-25? Anyways... if i can use 36-25 pin cort how that should be connected on circuit?
my email
khaled.malliaty@integratedwood.com
http://www.sanken-ele.co.jp/en/prod/semicon/pdf/data_sla7070me.pdf
What that can do will blow your mind compared to the drivers in this Instructable. Might even be cheaper than buying all the parts this driver needs too. One module goes for around $14 USD.
If I have the 12v power in, do I need to use the light bulb? If so, what kind of bulb do I need to use? And can the bulb be replaced with a power resistor?
Thanks
http://www.stepperworld.com/Tutorials/pgUnipolarTutorial.htm
It helped me find the center tap wires which get connected to the one side of the lamps. Also, did you set up Kcam the way Tom shows in the video? After I did this, I then had to go to the ports setup and manually select the step and direction pins for each motor.
I think I read that also about reversing the signal. So I tried changing the "Inverted" setting under the port settings in Kcam for the z axis. The default setting is Inverted=False. So, first I tried Inverted=True for the z step, then Inverted=True for the z direction, then both true. Nothing changed :(
BTW, another setting that I figured out for a different z axis problem I had was to enable z axis jog step, under table settings. Otherwise, it will try to spin the motor instead of step it. So, make sure you do that when you start testing with the new cable. Unfortunately that didn't solve my current problem.
Another weird think I forgot about...In trying to fix this problem, I tried adding the capacitors that people said didn't matter. The ones I used are 1.0uF tantalum capacitors. It didn't fix the problem, but it kind of created another one -- well at least one of those capacitors did (the one at the end, near the big cap). When I added this one, and powered the board up without connecting to the computer, it would make the x motor spin and the y motor would jitter and sometimes move randomly. The z motor did nothing. When I connected the board to my computer, they stopped, and the x and z motors were controlled perfectly with Kcam. If I remove that capacitor (and leave the others), I can power the board w/o the computer and the motors do not move and are fine. I think people were right about all of those capacitors. I only added them to see if it would fix my problem. The board worked the same way w/o them.
One other thing...I think I read somewhere that the 6.2v zener diode should be a 5.1v zener diode, so I tried changing that, but I still have the same problem.
About your power supply, it sounds like that could definitely be the problem. Try that voltage, but I think I read that you have to put the higher wattage bulbs in and also use the 1/2 watt resistors.
either way my next project is to design a custom driver from scratch. Sounds fun huh??
Here are a few photos of the board I made from this instructable. I have a few small issues to iron out as stated in my last post.
Everything fab'ed from scratch.
I also, fixed the transfer layout. I reversed the top as the one posted here was backwards for a toner transfer. I placed them with enough distance apart so that you can fold it over your copper plate and get a very nice result.
FY I - USE the PDF file attached:
NOTE: It was mentioned before but when ordering off the parts list save yourself time by getting a FEMALE D-SUB port and NOT a MALE.
Digi-key part:
CONN DB25 FEMALE DIP SLD NICKEL - # 4225FE-ND
Have a search on Google for the data sheets and try to understand how the circuit works. I wouldnt advise anybody to try to build a circuit like this unless you are prepared to experiement.
Here is my attempt:-
http://www.copperrap.blogspot.com
will this controller work with these motors?
http://www.probotix.com/stepper_motors/ht23-260-4/
please, please, please.........Thank you
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=617911#post617911
He did make a parts list:
C:\Projects\StepCheapPartsList.rtf
Capt-Ron
Is anyone willing to build a finished board to drive 3 motors?
How Much and how long would it take?
Here are the motors I would be using:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SMT-89/search/2-PHASE_1.8_DEGREE_STEPPER_MOTOR_(USED)_.html
Thanks,
Mitch
im lost too.. did you find the answer?
ive finaly got the circuit to work, but when i change directions on the jog, it chugs along few seconds and also sound a bit clunky, ive uploaded a video if anyone can help
thanks
Questions:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SMT-108/STEPPER-MOTOR-6-WIRE/1.html
Also I'm having a hard time finding a 6 wire unipolar stepper. All I've found are 5 wire. will they work?
Thanks