Step 4: TESTING..1..2..3

Don't be nervus. It's just a little electricity. First off it would be good to load up the KCAM (or what ever you plan on using) in your computor. Then when you feel comfortable that all the parts are in the right place plug the parallel port connector into the driver board(as shown below) and put a low wattage build in the socket for the motor. In this case I'm using middle, the Y axis driver.

For power I like to use one if these universal power adapters with selectable voltage output. They're cheap and they don't put out a lot of current so if something goes wrong it's less likely to damage your circuit. Set the voltage low and see if you have some vlotage on the power pins(16) of the CD4516 and the CD4028. If you don't have a volt meter just take an LED and tie a 10K(BRN,BLK,ORN) resistor to the positive(the long leg) and wire to ground tied to the negative(the short leg). Now you can use this as a probe to see where you have voltage. It will be very dim but we don't want to draw too much current away from the circuit.

Now go into the computer program and find the Setup Table. Set the steps per inch to 1000. Then open the CNC control and set the single step for .001 inch and activate the single step mode. Now each time you click the yellow arrows (up and down for the Y axis) the computor will output one pulse to the stepper motor driver circuit.

Put your LED probe on pin 10 of the CD4516. This is the up down input. When you click the up arrow the input will be low(LED off) and when you click the down arrow the input will be high(LED on). Pin 15 is the step input you will see a very short blink each time you click a n up or down arrow on this pin. Pin 6 is the Q1 output. It will change state(high/low) each time you click an arrow. And Pin 11 is the Q2 output. It will change state every other time you click an arrow.

On the output side of things we should see some activity on the CD4028 chip. Putting your probe on any of the output pins 1,4,6,or 7. These outputs drive the FETs. You should see the output go high every 4th time you click the up or down arrow.

If this all makes sense so far it's time to get the motor running. The common wire or wires of the motor which are the center tap of the windings should be connected to the light bulb. The other four wires should go to the four FETs on the circuit. If you are really lucky you will get the combination just right in the first couple of trys. Other wise just keep switching the wires arround until the motor steps in the same direction each time you click the arrows.

Watch the video in the next step. It may give you a better idea what to do.

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<p>Hi, I'm using L298n instead of MOSFETS. The stepper seems to react but doesn't move, it's just growling. Is it because of L298n?</p>
I've got something I'm working on and need 10 or more accessible drives.<br><br>Can this be paralleled to incorporate more axis?<br><br>Also if it is possible ... am I going to need a special program for an application like that?<br><br>Thank you
<p>Is this motor compatible with this driver???</p><p>http://www.applied-motion.com/products/stepper-motors/4023-820</p>
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<p>I am almost done with this project, a few things on the way from farnell/element14, looking good so far, and with a little hard work and care I have added a few professional touches, such as solder mask, though I handled it a bit too much after it cured (Used a spray paint version). Some components aren't soldered in as I am not sure about their values, the resistors for example. Can anyone provide a complete list of the parts? as the list Tom has provided doesn't seem to match, is a few parts short and it seems he is rather busy. I did look at the schematic ofcourse, however seems like a different revision. Thanks Tom for this valuable instructable, when it's made I'll test it and mark this as &quot;I made it!&quot;.</p>
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<p>Hello,</p><p>If you are trying to use a simple parallel port to USB adapter it will not work. Parallel ports were not designed to provide power while USBs do. This means that the stepper motor will always receive a signal even when it shouldn't be. If your pins recieve power ONLY when connected to the computer, this is the problem.</p>
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<p>Hi! I'm making this driver for my CNC, but when i step in KCAM the motor vibrates back and forth and then stops, any idea what the problem is?</p><p>Thanks</p><p>cutdact</p>
please guys what are the values of c3-c6 i just need that to finish :)
and how about c6 is it imortant ?
<p>Sorry to bring up an old thread but I have the same question. did you manage to get and answer?</p>
thanks buddy and sorry for being late :)
thank you buddy i will finish it and post some pics :)
<p>if i was to make changes to the design where it connects to the stepper can i make this circuit able to drive a 4 wire bipolar stepper motor</p>
<p>if i was to make changes to the design where it connects to the stepper can i make this circuit able to drive a 4 wire bipolar stepper motor</p>
<p>I also have similar problem as &quot;<a href="http://www.instructables.com/member/descartable/" rel="nofollow">descartable</a>&quot; has. Any solution? </p><p>Thanks in advance.</p>
<p>Hi , I just finished building a single motor drive but I have a problem, when I plug in the 12V the motor start moving erratically back and forward, vibrate a lot and that disappear when I disconnect the enable pin of the CD 4028, control via parallel port isn't working fine either.I build it using a perforated board,I check all the connections and are as per the diagram.Any suggestions???Thanks</p>
So I am having a hard time. My motor will hardly step once, and back once. The motor heats up pretty hot. I have the pm55l-048 motor to test with. runnning 16v. any suggestions?
<p>Yes, Motor gets too hot. I've the same motor pm55l-048 and running on 12 V with driver IC UCN5804B, tested on Kcam.</p><p>I think it might be be too small for load (800ma). Have you solved your problem ? I'm planning for bigger motors.</p>
Hi, After making the circuit (I'll be breadboarding it ) can I expect it to run with Arduino.Rather how I can make it run for an uno. I'm trying to do this for a 3d printer ? <br> <br>Is it for unipolar (AS IT SEEMS TO BE CENTRE-TAPPED )? How can i make it run for a bipolar stepper ? <br>
Hi, I'm not a motorspecialist so I cannot give you an answer on that. Perhaps other users ? <br>With Arduino UNO you could better use Polulu-drivers.
Thanks dirver for replying :) <br>Can you just let me know some details that how it is programmed , do you use a micro controller to run the three steppers or do you program it with some software.? <br>I'm just curious how I will program it for the 3d printer.Thanks : and sorry for trouble
<p>hi jatin</p><p>I have tried to drive this controller through arduino uno and it works !</p><p>you should use something called grbl you will upload a sketch to your arduino and connect your wires (step and direction) for each motor and run it with a software compatible with grbl I used grbl controller .</p><p>and when I used the enable pin It didn't work</p><p>so good luck and let me know what you achieve :)</p><p>use the following link to download the library and put it in it's directory the open examples in arduino software &gt;GRBL&gt;GRBLtoArduino then upload it</p><p><a href="https://github.com/Protoneer/GRBL-Arduino-Library" rel="nofollow">https://github.com/Protoneer/GRBL-Arduino-Library</a></p><p>some guides :</p><p><a href="https://github.com/damellis/gctrl" rel="nofollow">https://github.com/damellis/gctrl</a></p><p><a href="http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/grbl-arduino-g-code-processor-pin-layout/" rel="nofollow">http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/grbl-arduino-g-code-processor-pin-layout/</a></p>
Hi Jatinbatra,<br>For my cnc-router I use Mach 3, but I'm designing a 3D printer and then I use this Arduino-unit (including temperature controller, stepperdrivers, ....).<br>http://dx.com/p/elecfreaks-3d-printer-ramps-reprap-exaltation-kit-208068<br>If you make a 3D printer with the driver here described, you will still need 2x temperature controller and the 4th stepperdriver.<br>I first wanted to change my router for also 3D-printing but the 3th axis would not go high enough so I decited to make a 3D printer from scratch.
Actually I'm only a novice and I don't know how to layout PCB, so it is pretty much cumbersome work to connect a sub25 connector . <br>What i'M doing is that I'm making everything on a generic (protoboard or breadboard ) kinda thing , so I wanted to know can you help me figuring out what should I do ?
Hi Jatinbatra,<br>Depends on what you mean with &quot;figuring out&quot;.<br>Do you want to make Tom's pcb or are you making a new design ?<br>
i just simply want to make the driver to run the steppers with computer control i.e the torque, speed (micro-steping) and direction via a pc for 3 motors.It doesn't matter to me whether it be CNC or 3D printer, All I want to do is run the motors . <br>I'm bit unaware about programming part ,.
The programming can be done with Mach3.<br>Look at the picture of Tom for this.<br>Have you already bought the components ?<br>
No , I haven't bought the components but i have stepper motors which are all 4 wired , can't I use this circuit with four wires ?
No, I don't think this pcb will work with less than 5-wires.<br>I only use this pcb with 5-wire-motors.<br>For 4-wire-motors I use the china-driver-boards (3x motor for my router).<br>Regards and Merry Christmas,<br><br>Dirk
Ho,ho,ho , Happy Holidays Dirk.You are really a very helpful person :) <br> <br>I have four wire steppers and Tom has a six wire motor , of which two wires are connected to the bulb (which is actually for testing the circuit the circuit ) so I think if I skip these two wires , then I think I can do that right.Please fell free to correct me.
<p>I'd like to know how to choose resistors or light bulbs? I have built this circuit and tried different bulbs/resistors, but could not understand how to make my motors run at full power</p>

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