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Easy to build CNC Mill Stepper Motor and Driver circuits

Step 4TESTING..1..2..3

TESTING..1..2..3
Don't be nervus. It's just a little electricity. First off it would be good to load up the KCAM (or what ever you plan on using) in your computor. Then when you feel comfortable that all the parts are in the right place plug the parallel port connector into the driver board(as shown below) and put a low wattage build in the socket for the motor. In this case I'm using middle, the Y axis driver.

For power I like to use one if these universal power adapters with selectable voltage output. They're cheap and they don't put out a lot of current so if something goes wrong it's less likely to damage your circuit. Set the voltage low and see if you have some vlotage on the power pins(16) of the CD4516 and the CD4028. If you don't have a volt meter just take an LED and tie a 10K(BRN,BLK,ORN) resistor to the positive(the long leg) and wire to ground tied to the negative(the short leg). Now you can use this as a probe to see where you have voltage. It will be very dim but we don't want to draw too much current away from the circuit.

Now go into the computer program and find the Setup Table. Set the steps per inch to 1000. Then open the CNC control and set the single step for .001 inch and activate the single step mode. Now each time you click the yellow arrows (up and down for the Y axis) the computor will output one pulse to the stepper motor driver circuit.

Put your LED probe on pin 10 of the CD4516. This is the up down input. When you click the up arrow the input will be low(LED off) and when you click the down arrow the input will be high(LED on). Pin 15 is the step input you will see a very short blink each time you click a n up or down arrow on this pin. Pin 6 is the Q1 output. It will change state(high/low) each time you click an arrow. And Pin 11 is the Q2 output. It will change state every other time you click an arrow.

On the output side of things we should see some activity on the CD4028 chip. Putting your probe on any of the output pins 1,4,6,or 7. These outputs drive the FETs. You should see the output go high every 4th time you click the up or down arrow.

If this all makes sense so far it's time to get the motor running. The common wire or wires of the motor which are the center tap of the windings should be connected to the light bulb. The other four wires should go to the four FETs on the circuit. If you are really lucky you will get the combination just right in the first couple of trys. Other wise just keep switching the wires arround until the motor steps in the same direction each time you click the arrows.

Watch the video in the next step. It may give you a better idea what to do.



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90 comments
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Dec 14, 2011. 5:12 AMcrispycat says:
thought id come back to this project as its been sitting on the shelf for a year or so after failing last time...
so everything appears to be in the correct place
the lights come on when i add power
everything is fine then after the computer gets past bios the lights switch off!
if i take the paralel out they all come back on again!!
any idea what i have done wrong?
Dec 14, 2011. 5:51 AMcrispycat says:
ok changed the settings in bios for parallel mode from ssp? to ecp and the lights have come back on
and yay i now have one axis working woowoo!!
Jun 15, 2011. 6:10 AMdwn77 says:
Gentlemen! I'm really sad because the day I finished my plate, and not getting hit, even out of primary tests.
Again I need help from the masters here.

I confess I'm lost! Do not know, what may be happening.

All 16 pins are having signal. The other pins 1-4-6-7 CD4028be, do not change status by clicking on the arrows.
Sometimes clicking on the arrows to hear the engine noise of contact very short.
List of board components:

CD4516BE
TC4028BP
K2391 (FET)
7806A
Lamp (i think is 18 volts or +)

Help me please, Thanks!
May 17, 2011. 8:48 AMdwn77 says:
Hello! Gentlemen! I have a doubt, as the printer cable!
What kind of cable should I use?

I am referring to the kind of internal connection!

Thank you all!
May 21, 2011. 8:28 AMwoodspinner says:
I used a scanner cable from a computer recycler, used the appropriate connectors on each end.

John
May 23, 2011. 1:23 AMdwn77 says:
Thanks for the reply! ... I was referring to the internal connections of the cable. I am using a cable with both ends DB25 (female).

DB25 (female )<-----------------> DB25 (female).

I checked the pinouts and are all direct and not have wires crossed.

I'm having problems and I am trying to fix it.
May 23, 2011. 6:34 AMwoodspinner says:
straight thru is correct
May 23, 2011. 2:02 AMdwn77 says:
Gentlemen, I again beg everyone's help.

I am not able to make my device work.

First, and does not know the wiring of the engine, and not have the data sheet it.
I'm using the motor from Sanyo Denki -
Type 103G775-1511
17.5 V DC
0.25A
1 / 8 Deg / step

I'm using a controlled source of OMRON, Min.17.6V Max.24.0V-1.1A.

And second that I'm not understanding the correct order of connection of the motor wires and the order of the output FETs.

If you can help me with this I'll be very grateful!

Thank you for all!
Mar 19, 2010. 1:44 AMsydios says:
Hi,

i have a problem with the software, i set the steps to 1000 per inch and then
i open the manual control, and set the steps to 0,001 but when i click on the arrow buttons the "digital" display don't change and stays on 0,00000
Anyone have a idea ?

thanks ...
Nov 12, 2010. 8:32 AMgregtherider says:
Hi!

I have the same problem!
Do anyone know how to solve this?

Thanks
Greg
Mar 19, 2010. 8:22 AMmedalhead says:
ive got the same problem with KCam... 
Mar 23, 2010. 7:14 AMsydios says:
Does anyone had the same problem and resolved it ?

Mar 29, 2010. 3:00 PMmedalhead says:
I figured it out.
you have to go to "Setup" and then "Port Setup" and then configure the Pins.
for x step/ direction it is Bit 0,1 and Pin 2,3 .
for y step/ direction it is Bit 3,4 and Pin 5,6
for z step/ direction it is Bit 6,7 and Pin 6,7

Good Luck
May 7, 2010. 6:04 PMwoodspinner says:
 so pin 6 is used on two different axis for x purposes?
Mar 29, 2010. 3:33 PMsydios says:
Hi,

i tryed what you wrote, but when i hit "apply" the settings go back to where they are.

Apr 1, 2010. 6:57 AMmedalhead says:
Maybe you also have to set "inverted" to "true" for the enables for X, Y and Z.

does that help?
Nov 3, 2010. 7:49 AMsolarprism says:
I ve checked by your procedure and the problem is that the pin 1,4,6,7 of the CD4028 blink each time i click and the motor doesnt move,only vibrating. When i select single step to 1,first it vibrated and then rotate normaly but in one direction only.Can you give me some advice?
Nov 1, 2010. 4:06 AMbogdanalex says:
One more question: Do you think the motors below are any good with this driver ?
If yes, what is the proper voltage & current that should I apply to the circuit .

Astrosyn - Shinkoh communication industry co. ltd
type: 23PM - C109

5.4 V/phase
1.5 A/phase
1.8 deg/step

Lenght - 80mm
diameter - 55mm
shaft diameter - 6mm
Nov 2, 2010. 7:19 PMwoodspinner says:
I couldnt find any more specs on your motors than what you showed, I'd start with 1.5 amps at 12 volts and go from there. Good luck with your build
Nov 1, 2010. 4:11 AMbogdanalex says:
additional info for the motors :

6 wire motors and 8 ohms resistance on each coil.
Oct 29, 2010. 3:43 AMbogdanalex says:
I got the circuit working BUT , in K-Cam when I tell the motor to make a step, instead making it properly, it shakes rather then step . Does it need more power or something? Or what might be the problem?
Oct 29, 2010. 8:09 AMwoodspinner says:
It could be, that the motors arent wired up properly, or maybe you have the accelleration set to high
Oct 29, 2010. 10:44 AMbogdanalex says:
the thing is I didn't find any datasheet of the motors I have although I think I did wire them properly . they have red, white-red , green, wite-green, black and white wires so I figured the red pairs are one coil, the green pairs are the other coil, and black and white are the "middle" of them.

What do you mean about acceleration? I set things in k-cam like McGuire did, if that's what you mean.
Oct 29, 2010. 12:17 PMwoodspinner says:
if you take the wires from the motor check the ohms between all wires, I'm counting the colors you mentioned and getting 6, so checking ohms will identify the two sepperate phases easily, your common will have half the ohms with the other two as they have to each other.

if ground the commons together to powersupply and hold any one wire to the positive(we will call this #1) then touch any of the remaining wires also to the positive one of three things will happen, the motor will setp slightly to the right, slighty to the left, or no difference.. we now number all the wires like this, first wire is #1, no difference is #3, slightly right is #2 and slightly left is #4, thats the order they would go in on the board...

I really hope I explained it well.
John
Aug 4, 2010. 12:48 AMbogdanalex says:
Ok...problems on the testing part. I've got power on the pin 16 but when I connect the motor, the bulb doesn't light. If I messed up the wiring of the motor can behave like that ? It's better to test the circuit further, giving commands from the computer and see how it works on the IC pins ?
Aug 4, 2010. 1:32 AMza_sly says:
If it's any help... I've got the same issue, and yet the motors do their job just fine. Maybe you could try with a lower wattage bulb. The motors I'm using are rated at 10 V. Power comes from a 12 V wall wart, fed through a 21 W bulb.
Aug 4, 2010. 8:32 AMwoodspinner says:
you could check that each of the fets light up in order as you single step along, if they do then its a motor connection, if not dig thru the rest of the logic circuit. even when at rest, the lights should be lit unless disabled by the enable pin. I had this problem at one point, and it turned out to be a bad ground on one of the ics.
Aug 4, 2010. 12:29 PMbogdanalex says:
How can I check if it's disabled or not , from the enable pin ?
Aug 4, 2010. 11:09 PMza_sly says:
What I've figured so far.. If the power is on (enabled) I do feel it when I try to spin the motor by hand, like kind of a brake on the rotor. Try this, or get an LED with a resistor and check the "enable" pin.
Aug 4, 2010. 12:44 PMwoodspinner says:
if the motor moves, its not disabled
Jul 25, 2010. 8:36 PMziggalo says:
one more question, haha. How many volts do you suggest I start out with?
Jul 28, 2010. 6:35 AMwoodspinner says:
12v is a nice place to start, any higher and you will need to figure out what resistor to use in the logic power supply side.
Aug 1, 2010. 11:06 PMziggalo says:
When the author says, "don't worry, it's just a little electricity" I'm still a little hesitant. 300 milliamps is no joke. That can easily kill someone.
Aug 2, 2010. 1:23 PMwoodspinner says:
when done as described, its nothing to worry about, 12v dc.
Aug 1, 2010. 12:57 PMziggalo says:
the parallel port that is on the PCB. Is that supposed to be male or female? I'm having trouble finding a cable for this machine.
Aug 1, 2010. 1:09 PMziggalo says:
(removed by author or community request)
Aug 1, 2010. 2:13 PMwoodspinner says:
no a usb to parallel cable wont work the voltage is wrong. He uses a male on this circuit but you can use whatever fits what cable you can find, try a used computer shop, the cables were used on a lot of flatbed scanners.
Jul 7, 2010. 4:53 PMziggalo says:
Does this work with Mach 3?
Jul 8, 2010. 6:57 AMwoodspinner says:
yes
Jul 25, 2010. 1:48 PMziggalo says:
hi woodspinner, I remember you saying that you got this circuit to work on a breadboard. What software did you use to test it? if you used mach3, can you give a brief run through of how to do it? I don't want to pay for Kcam before knowing my circuit's gonna work. thanks
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