Make Napalm with two ingredients that can easily be found. This version of Napalm isn't as sticky as those others that have been posted, but burns well enough to make firestarters out of it and even an outdoor stove.
Materials that you will need:
Empty jar (I used a pickle jar, I also already have a little bit left from my last batch)
Stick (spoon, straw, etc.)
Citronella oil (Lighter's fluid will also work)
Powdered Sugar
Warning: This stuff will continue to burn as it falls apart. Fire burns. Ouch!
Just to answer everyones' questions/comments: This isn't Military grade napalm, nor does it use a Styrofoam and gasoline mixture (known famously as a "Homemade Napalm"). Also the oil is "Lemon scented" in this version, which usually means someone, somewhere was smelling the fumes let off by burning it, which means that you probably (I can't guarantee it cause you may be allergic to something in the oil) won't die from it.
Here's a Wiki excerpt explaining REAL NAPALM:
"Napalm is usually a mixture of gasoline with suitable thickening agents. The earliest thickeners were soaps, aluminum, and magnesium palmitates and stearates. Depending on the amount of added thickener, the resulting viscosity may range between syrupy liquid and thick rubbery gel. The content of long hydrocarbon chains makes the material highly hydrophobic (resistant to wetting with water), making it more difficult to extinguish. Thickened fuel also rebounds better from surfaces, making it more useful for operations in urban terrain.
There are two types of napalm: oil-based with aluminum soap thickener, and oil-based with polymeric thickener ("napalm-B").
The United States military uses three kinds of thickeners: M1, M2, and M4.
Starting in the early 1990s, various websites including The Anarchist Cookbook advertised recipes for homemade napalm. These recipes were predominantly equal parts gasoline and styrofoam. This mixture closely resembles that of napalm-B, but lacks a percentage of benzene.
Napalm reaches burning temperatures of approximately 1,200 ðC (2,200 ðF). Other additives can be added, eg. powdered aluminum or magnesium, or white phosphorus.
In the early 1950s, Norway developed its own napalm, based on fatty acids in whale oil. The reason for this development was that the American-produced thickening agent performed rather poorly in the cold Norwegian climate. The product was known as Northick 11II.
Some weapons utilize a pyrophoric variant, known as TPA (thickened pyrophoric agent). Chemically it is a triethylaluminium thickened with polyisobutylene."
Materials that you will need:
Empty jar (I used a pickle jar, I also already have a little bit left from my last batch)
Stick (spoon, straw, etc.)
Citronella oil (Lighter's fluid will also work)
Powdered Sugar
Warning: This stuff will continue to burn as it falls apart. Fire burns. Ouch!
Just to answer everyones' questions/comments: This isn't Military grade napalm, nor does it use a Styrofoam and gasoline mixture (known famously as a "Homemade Napalm"). Also the oil is "Lemon scented" in this version, which usually means someone, somewhere was smelling the fumes let off by burning it, which means that you probably (I can't guarantee it cause you may be allergic to something in the oil) won't die from it.
Here's a Wiki excerpt explaining REAL NAPALM:
"Napalm is usually a mixture of gasoline with suitable thickening agents. The earliest thickeners were soaps, aluminum, and magnesium palmitates and stearates. Depending on the amount of added thickener, the resulting viscosity may range between syrupy liquid and thick rubbery gel. The content of long hydrocarbon chains makes the material highly hydrophobic (resistant to wetting with water), making it more difficult to extinguish. Thickened fuel also rebounds better from surfaces, making it more useful for operations in urban terrain.
There are two types of napalm: oil-based with aluminum soap thickener, and oil-based with polymeric thickener ("napalm-B").
The United States military uses three kinds of thickeners: M1, M2, and M4.
- The M1 Thickener (Mil-t-589a), chemically a mixture of 25% wt. aluminum naphthenate, 25% aluminum oleate, and 50% aluminum laurate, (or, according to other sources, aluminum stearate soap) is a highly hygroscopic coarse tan-colored powder. As the water content impairs the quality of napalm, thickener from partially used open containers should not be used later. It is not maintained in the US Army inventory any more as it was replaced with M4.
- The M2 Thickener (Mil-t-0903025b) is a whitish powder similar to M1, with added devolatilized silica and anticaking agent.
- The M4 flame fuel thickening compound (Mil-t-50009a), hydroxyl aluminum bis(2-ethylhexanoate) with anti-caking agent, is a fine white powder. It is less hygroscopic than M1 and opened containers can be resealed and used within one day. About half the amount of M4 is needed for the same effect as of M1.
Starting in the early 1990s, various websites including The Anarchist Cookbook advertised recipes for homemade napalm. These recipes were predominantly equal parts gasoline and styrofoam. This mixture closely resembles that of napalm-B, but lacks a percentage of benzene.
Napalm reaches burning temperatures of approximately 1,200 ðC (2,200 ðF). Other additives can be added, eg. powdered aluminum or magnesium, or white phosphorus.
In the early 1950s, Norway developed its own napalm, based on fatty acids in whale oil. The reason for this development was that the American-produced thickening agent performed rather poorly in the cold Norwegian climate. The product was known as Northick 11II.
Some weapons utilize a pyrophoric variant, known as TPA (thickened pyrophoric agent). Chemically it is a triethylaluminium thickened with polyisobutylene."
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Signing UpStep 1: Mix them together and what do you get...
Video Below...
1. Take the powdered sugar and pour about a cup into the jar.
2. Now take the oil and pour about a 3/4 cup into the jar.
3. Mix them together, add more oil or sugar as needed until you get a mixture that resembles whipped cream or butter.
That's all there is to it. Easy as I said it would be. There's a Video below so you can watch how well this stuff burns (a nice steady pace). This stuff does become kind of hard after being stored for a while. Just take the spoon and mix it up, good as new.
Experiment with it to get new effects.
Add regular or brown sugar into the mix.
Try mixing some saw dust in.
Hope you've enjoyed this instructable. Next time you're at a BBQ, take a jar of this stuff out and smear it on the grill (on the coal, not the actual grill) to help start the fire.
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Trying to reply to leatherneck DR. Bill. Maybe someone can tell me how to reply correctly.
Dr.Bill - How's it going Devil Dog? Yeah, that Napalm sticks like crazy. Don't know how good a sugar and oil mix would work though.
Semper Fi.
Lucky
The idea is to Kill the enemy, not to make Love to them.
Find a way to manufacture the stuf where you don't breathe it.
Don't like my post ?
Don't screw with napalm.
We join da U.S.M.C. Gang cause we no like take out da hood, we want take out a Nation !
Semper Fi bruddah !
Now that you have the materials just keep placing styrofoam in the gas until there is just about a 1/2 inch of gas left in your container, any container with an airtight lid will work but no plastic containers. After that dump the whole thing of the PVC glue in it,(not the purple primer, the GLUE) and then store. Alternatively you can use BP brand diesel fuel, its harder to light but burns hotter, longer, and with a bigger flame. If you want a thicker mix you can use latex pool sealant, but it comes in small tubes and is expensive.
L8r
Mike
From this publication, namely Section V, No. 4 -- GELLED FLAME FUELS -- from which I quote: Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in incendiary devices such as fire bottles. This type of fuel adheres more readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration. Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly available materials. The methods are divided into the following categories based on the major ingredients:
4.1 Lye Systems
4.2 Lye-Alcohol Systems
4.3 Soap-Alcohol Systems
4.4 Egg White Systems
4.5 Latex Systems
4.6 Wax Systems
4.7 Animal Blood Systems
End Quote.
Furthermore, and unless you are both a trained professional and practioner of safe handling methodology, attempting to make any of the above systems can be extremely hazardous to your health, even if they do not run you afoul of the laws within your jurisdiction, muncipality, state, and federal alcohol, tobacco, firearms, explosives regulations within the Dept. of Justice. Having provided the necessary disclaimers, here's more about Gelled Flame Fuel systems.
4.1 Lye (aka caustic soda or sodium hydroxide) can be combined with powdered rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline into either a very firm paste of gelatinous liquid.
4.2 Lye can also be used in combo with gasoline, ethyl alcohol 'n a tallow, such as lanoline (very good), or castor oil (good), or any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc), or any fish oil, or butter or oleomargarine.
4.3 Common household soap (not detergent soap) can be used in combo with ethyl alcohol and gasoline to gel gasoline for flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
4.4 Combining gasoline with whites of bird eggs plus any one of the following substances: table salt, ground coffee, dried tea leaves, cocoa, sugar, saltpeter, sal soda washing powder, baking soda, or asprin will produce a gelled fuel.
4.5 When gasoline 'n latex paints/adhesives are combined with one of the following acids: vinegar, motor vehicle battery acid, or muriatic acid, a gelled flame fuel substance is produced.
4.6 Mixing gasoline with several common waxes, such as leather polish, sealing wax, candles, crayons, waxes paper, furniture/floor waxes, beeswax, bayberry wax, or myrtle wax, will produce flame fuels suitable for adhering to target surfaces.
4.7 Animal blood and gasoline mixtures that include one of the following: salt, ground coffee, dried tea leaves, sugar, bricklaying lime, baking soda, or epsom salts will gel gasoline suitable for target adhering.
BLACK BOOK Series resource: I don't have a URL since my copies were printed prior to development of the worldwide web, but providing the books are still available, you should contact an underground press publisher, known as Desert Publications, located in El Dorado, AR 71731. Be also known, you may find yourself on some domestic terrorism database for ordering these books but short of joining the ordinance disposal training of our armed forces, you will not find a more concise, fact filled, resource than the Black Book series.
We used phugas but put a claymore behind just to liven things up a bit!
Charlie-4 work'd better than those trioxane fuel bars the army gave us 'n it didn't give off an oily smoke that encouraged Victor Charlie or Nathaniel Victor to lob mortars/arty/rpg rds our way. Nother good thing bout comp-4, since we seldom blew any Mary Jane when in the boonies, a pinch put tween lower lip 'n teeth was always good for a uplifting buzz to take the edge off after a really nasty 'n bloody firefight -- something we saw lot of during the '68 Tet: north of the Citadel city of Hue, in the Thon La Chu area, when the First Air Cav {2d Btn / 12th Cav Rgmt (my unit)} 'n other cavarly units were cutting off the flow of logistical supplies 'n fighters into the Imperial City {1-25 February 1968}. Once we'd done that, the USMC, (that again stole all the glory) throughout this Viet New Year offensive in I-Corps -- that's pronounced "core", Mr. Obama, not "corpse" -- to win this major operational undertaking.
To learn more about what some of us airmobile soldiers went thru in the action identified above, google/bing Thon La Chu. The battle for Hue wasn't just about the Marines, the First Air Cav 'n the 101st Airborne did our parts too to kick the commies happy little arses in the last major battle in the war in Vietnam, Republic of.