Instructables

Easy, useful, 5 minutes, free, stick-welding tool (fýcil, ýtil, 5 minutos, gratuita, herramienta para soldadura elýctrica)

El problema: Yo soy un aprendiz de soldador, y creo que lo seguiré siendo por el resto de mi vida. Uno de los problemas que tengo que enfrentar es mi mal pulso, sobre todo cuando el electrodo es nuevo y por lo tanto demasiado largo para poder manejarlo con precisión. Para solucionarlo, se me ocurrió el presente simple dispositivo.

The problem:I am an apprentice welder, and I think I will continue being for the rest of my life. One of the problems I have to face is my bad pulse, especially when the electrode is new and therefore too long to be handled with precision. To fix this, I thought this simple device.

 
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Step 1: El mango (the handle)


Tomé un trozo de varilla de madera, en este caso de 2x2 cm, y unos 15 cm de largo. Las medidas son ajustables al gusto y a la mano de cada uno. Podría ser también un trozo redondo, de palo de escoba, por ejemplo.

I took a piece of stick, in this case of 2x2 cm and 15 cm long. The measures are adjustable to the taste and the hand of each. Could also be a round piece of broom handle, for instance.

Step 2: Los agujeros (the holes)


En un extremo del palito hice transversalmente un agujero del diámetro del electrodo más grueso que suelo usar, incluida la cobertura (4.5 mm). Perpendicularmente a este agujero, o sea sobre una de las caras adyacentes del palito, hice otro agujero un poco más grande (6 mm), con el centro desplazado unos dos milímetros hacia el extremo más alejado, de manera que interceptara parcialmente el primer agujero.

At one end of the stick I made a hole across, the diameter of the thicker electrode than I usually use, including coat (4.5 mm). Perpendicular to this hole, that is to say on one of the adjacent faces of the stick, I made another hole a little larger (6 mm), with the center shifted about two millimeters toward the far end, so that partially intercept the first hole.


De que parte de Argentina sos? Buenos Aires? Quiero saber solo porque viví ahí por dos años. Hace 2 meces y pico que he vuelto a mi casa en Texas y lo extraño montón. Hablo castellano cada vez que me presenta una oportunidad. Si quiere ayuda con tus Instructables, o con las traducciones, me encantaría ayudarte en cualquier cosa que quiere. Avisame si nececitas algo. Que le vaya bien!
rimar2000 (author)  nomooremr.niceguy2 years ago
Hola, gracias por tu comentario y ofrecimiento. Vivo en Villa Elisa, a 42 Km de BsAs.

La mejor ayuda que me podés dar es leer mis traducciones al inglés e informarme de aquellas cosas que no se entienden. No te pido un análisis estilístico, me basta con que me entiendan. El Google Translator es excelente, pero no puede hacer milagros. Por ejemplo, si buscas "morsa" te traduce "walrus" que es el animal, no el tornillo de banco. Y como esa hay montones.

Debe ser lindo Texas, por lo que se ve en las películas.
Jayefuu3 years ago
I can see that this would be useful :D I learned to stick weld a month or two ago but only today did I get a good chance to practice! Something steady at the end of the rod is a big help, my glove got a bit hot!
rimar2000 (author)  Jayefuu3 years ago
James, If you have not a photosensitive mask, BUY ONE NOW!

I bought one less than a week ago, and I was amazed. It is awesome, I can work twice faster and better.

Yes, the leather glove can be useful to help to drive the tip of the electrode, when it is not so hot.
AR10NZ3 years ago
Hi : Been welding for over 40 years, never " the best in the shop ". 1 helpful tip, if you want an easy & neat start to a TIG, or stick weld, clamp a piece of copper close to your weld start, establish your arc on it, then weld. Cheers, AR10NZ
rimar2000 (author)  AR10NZ3 years ago
Thanks for the tip, AR10NZ. I will try it soon.
tonyscott3 years ago
hola Osvaldo, hace unos dias atras estaba justo pensando como soldar, porque yo tambien estoy flojo como soldador, yo pense en cortar el electrodo lo que pasa pero es que se te rompe el aislante del mismo y no se lo puede aprovechar del todo, buena idea. un saludo tony.
rimar2000 (author)  tonyscott3 years ago
Hola Tony, gracias por el comentario. Yo corto solamente los electrodos de 1.6mm, los demás los manejo con este aparatito hasta que llegan a la mitad.

Para cortarlos uso el alicate, y hago girar el electrodo entre los filos a medida que voy apretando, de esa manera por lo general evito que salte el recubrimiento. Es cierto que se pierde un poco, pero yo no puedo soldar con un electrodo completo de 1.6mm. Para determinar más o menos la mitad, lo pongo en balance sobre la yema del dedo.

Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. I cut only 1.6mm electrodes, the others use this gadget until they reach the middle.

Use the pliers to cut them, and I turn the electrode between the edges as I'm pressing, thereby usually avoid springing the coating. It is true that you lose a little, but I can not weld with complete 1.6mm electrode. To determine roughly its half, put it in balance on a fingertip.

gracias Osvaldo por responder, esto tambien fue util, me refiero a lo de girar mientras cortas, parece que no pero son estas pequeñas cosas lo que hacen la vida mas facil. un saludo tony
rimar2000 (author)  tonyscott3 years ago
Otra pequeñez que se me pasó por alto en el comentario anterior: si corto el electrodo con la parte central del alicate, el salto que se produce suele hacer saltar la cubierta. Pero si lo hago con la garganta, al haber mucha más palanca el corte es mucho más suave y la cubierta queda en su lugar. Parece mentira, son dos o tres milímetros pero hacen una gran diferencia.

Another smallness that I missed in the previous comment: if I cut the electrode with the central part of the pliers, the jump that occurs usually blows the cover. But if I do it with the throat, to be a lot more leverage the cut is much smoother and the cover is in place. It seems incredible, they are two to three millimeters but make a big difference.
JohnMichael3 years ago
A simple and innovative solution. Very good. I think I will share this idea with some of my friends.
rimar2000 (author)  JohnMichael3 years ago
Yes, especially when the pulse is not as strong as it should be. I use this tool daily, every time I change the electrode, and I find it almost indispensable.

Thanks, for comment!
john03 years ago
rimar2000 - I'm surprised no-one has thought to ask if you ensure your electrodes are thoroughly dry, or mention how to dry them.

I've known people TRY to use electrodes which have been open to the air for just a few days (but UK air can be very damp). I've put some of those electrodes in a hot oven, had a cup of tea (15 minutes will probably be enough time), removed a couple of electrodes (I would suggest with pliers), waved one around in the air for a minute to allow it to cool sufficiently to be handled, then welded with it without problem.

Even if you've only just bought them, the above is still worth doing - in my opinion.
rimar2000 (author)  john03 years ago
Thanks, john0, you are correct. My electrodes sometimes are damp, because here, near Buenos Aires, the wheather is damp. I have in my workshop a heater, so in winter I can put the electrodes directly over the flame, or over the little pilot flame if the heater is not on. I realized that when I don't make this, i.e. in hot wheather, it is more difficult to start the arc. I have too a cooktop, then I can use it to heat the electrodes. Appears that the drying temperature is not critical, I let them over the falme a bit while I prepare for welding, and it is usually sufficient.
kill-a-watt4 years ago
The 1/16 inch thick welding rods and the stainless steel welding rods are quite a bit shorter than the normal size of welding rod, and it is indeed easer to work with them when they are shorter. Both stainless steel and thin 1/16 inch rod have a higher than normal voltage drop.

Another solution to the long rods is to cut them in half. You need to clean about an inch of flux off of one piece, but that's not hard at all to do.
rimar2000 (author)  kill-a-watt4 years ago
Yeah, I've been cutting in half the electrodes, but there are three little problems: 1) electrode lost is twice normal, 2) time is lost, 3) the coating of the electrode is usually break at the tip , which makes the arc more difficult to initiate. Remember that I am an apprentice!
does en the wood set on fire
rimar2000 (author)  2 stroke 4 years ago
1450, have mercy on me, write me in English up correctly. You must consider that I speak only Spanish, and if you write me in slang I can not understand anything of what you mean.
i had an an idea what about a cloth line thing and sorry
Reffner4 years ago
A good pair of welding glove will eliminate the need for this.
rimar2000 (author)  Reffner4 years ago
Yes, it is true, but if I use gloves, I am more clumsy than usual...
thats with me too i use light gloves and my welding is getting better since then
erik_mccray4 years ago
I have seen many new welders try this trick. Works great at first but in the long run develops bad habits that are hard to change. I have a few tips that may help out. One, always have three points of balance for example two feet on the floor & one elbow resting on the work table or part. One time I was welding the inside of a 3 foot shaft that was going down hill & my three points where one knee, the opposite hip & my head. Two, crack of the first 1/16 to 1/8 of flux with pliers before you start. This will make your scratch start easy & get a good ark going. Three, chew gum as you weld. Yes, chew gum. Most of the time bad welds are because the welder is holding their breath concentrating on the weld. It is hard to hold your breath & chew a big wad of gum. Another way to keep from holding your breath is to sing. Singing will also help if your doing a whip bead like you do for 6010 or 6011. It will give you a beat to fallow so your weld is uniform. I hope soon rods will be to short for you not to long for you.
rimar2000 (author)  erik_mccray4 years ago
Thanks, Eric, for your tips. I don't understand that of don't hold the breath, but I will try your suggest. The end of the electrode sticks to the piece if it is not covered with the gray fragile thing, at least to me it always happens. Perhaps because my welder is low-power, is the cheapest I could find. It says 150 Amps, but may be it is less.
I would not worry about the cheapness of your welder. it just means its going to take longer for you to get good because your welder is less forgiving. But at the end you'll be better then the guy that just went out & got the expensive stuff. Another trick is to wrap your whip around your arm so the weight of it swinging around is not a problem. If you are using 7018 to weld stop. They turn out great welds but are unforgiving on inexperienced welders. I have always liked 6010 on low Amp welders & know other guys that like how easy it is to weld with 7024. I don't know how much you know about the different kinds of welding rods there are out there but it is well worth your time to try different types to find what works for you & your welder. But after you get the hang of it your going to want to go back to 7018 because it is like the multitool of welding rods. Let me know if something does not come through the translator sounding ok.
rimar2000 (author)  erik_mccray4 years ago
Thanks newly, Eric, you are very friendly with me. Really, I don't hope to be a proper welder, I only use the welder to make my things that they are a few and not very important. Also some little work for my son or my daughter. I go to the hardware store, ask electrodes of 2.5 mm and they give me the only ones that are used very general. Here where I live there is no house specializing in welding, would have to move a few miles to La Plata, where I have understood that there is a "House of Welder". Which I am using now are badly written near the cuff 6013. On the web I found that they are indeed very general use, and are actually what I need for now. I would like to get some harder steel to reinforce some things like the blade of the mower, for example, but it is not much less urgent. I also have electrodes 1.5 mm for little size pieces, I cut them at its middle for better management. I also have two stainless steel electrodes, but I don't know if some day I will use they. Your message has aroused my curiosity, I will try to locate that "House of Welder" to internalize a bit more about the subject. So far I have not done that because what I have on hand I manage more or less. Respect the automatic translator, they are great. Actually I use Google Translator. Logically I have problems with "non official" English, but step by step I am learning some bizarre expressions. A huge.
woaht hat rod is really long usually we have 12 inch or 14 inch
sounds like you are treating welding & metal work the way I treat woodworking. I love to make little things like shelves or a book case for my kids out of plywood. But I will never be a master cabinet maker nor do I want to be one.
rimar2000 (author)  erik_mccray4 years ago
Yes, Eric, it is so. Anyway, I appreciate your advices.
Phil B4 years ago
Very clever. I like the spring to put tension on the electrode.
rimar2000 (author)  Phil B4 years ago
In the text I say the spring must be flat, but if the holes are at 90 degrees, that is irrelevant. I must correct that.