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Water proof about everything.

Needed ingredients.

1. Mineral Spirits
2. 100% clear silicone caulking.

Empty container to mix in and a stir stick.

I used about 1/4 of the silicone tube and the quart of mineral spirits.  If I had more mineral spirits I would have thinned it more.

It's a hindsight thing, pour in the amount of mineral spirits then add silicon until it's almost as thick as water.

A drill with a stirrer makes it a lot easier because it takes a while to break down the caulk.

(edit)  I have found that mixing the Silicon and Mineral Spirits in a plastic water bottle works best.  Put in the ingredients, screw the lid on and shake.  If the bottle has one of the popup drinking spouts, just open it up, squirt out a trail, then use a brush to spread it around.  It will still cure in the bottle so use it or lose it.

Don't use an expensive brush, (I have found that if you work the brush as the silicon on the bristles cures, the brush will still be good for water based paints.  The bristles are sealed so any paints slide right off.  i have not tried oil based apints with a siliconed brush, but silicon is not paintable.

I painted the mixture on an apron as a test.  It did not change the color, nor the texture of the fabric.  Doesn't seem to have added any weight either.

I had plenty left over, so the 2'X4' piece of Luan I used to paint the apron got a coat as well. 

It soaked in almost immediately, so i flipped it over and did the other side as well.

After curing for 2 days, i poured water on both the board and the apron.

The water beaded and ran off.

I still have about a pint left.   (here kitty kitty)

Mineral spirits is not kind to all things, so make sure the material won't be harmed and have fun.

Should be good for all outdoor stuff including patio furniture.

Since the silicone soaks into the fabric and fills the voids and coats the threads, this will probably extend the life of whatever fabric you use it on.

SAFETY NOTICE!  No open flames or smoking.

Enjoy.
<p>I was wondering if this could be thinned enough to run through a spray gun? I know you can make Silicone paints for airbrushing using the same method and tinting with acrylic paints but I was hoping to do this with a HVLP sprayer. What do you think?</p>
<p>Probably need to put on several coats to ensure even coverage.<br><br>Were you planning on tinting it so you can see the coverage?<br><br>Let us know how it comes out</p>
<p>Yes it will be tinted a blueish white. I'm going to spray a compression shirt and I want to resemble skin. After I get a solid base coat I was going to go back with the airbrush for details. </p>
<p>Take pictures, make a video and post it for the rest of us to learn.<br><br>Sounds awesome!</p>
<p>Hi All,</p><p>I'd like to try this on nylon rain gear, will this work?</p><p>Thanks</p><p>:)</p>
<p>There should be no problem.</p><p>Just make sure to force the mixture into the fabric.</p>
<p>my buddy and I took a bike trip to Florida back in 2012. He had a military surplus dufflebag he put all his stuff in. It rained. All his clothes got wet. <br>While in Florida we did this process... a little too thick on the silicone side, but it stayed on. <br>Six years later... just took another 8 hour bike trip through rainy weather on the steed and not a single garment got wet. Left the bag out in the downpour while eating and everything was still dry. He never reapplied the mix either. this stuff is for reals!<br></p><p>I was about to buy some new leather saddlebags until I remembered this trick. I'm gonna go with the much cheaper canvas option. </p><p>Came looking for mix measurements. We'll see how right you are about that! :)</p>
For a heavy coat, mix it thick and scrape it on with a nylon putty knife to make sure you get it thoroughly saturated all the way through.
<p>thanks for sharing! I just made some research about it and it seems that it's more effective to use PU foam: it's cheaper (5$ for a bunch of square mettes) and more efficient and you can't really apply later a second layer of silicon since it will be fixed on the old silicon particules, but no problem with PU. I'll try first PU and post something about that here or on stack exchange.</p>
<p>EDIT: I made many test, PU and silicon are different, and thus must be apply to fit different criteria. PU &quot;plastifies&quot; the fabric, it makes it slightly rigid (or a lot more, depending of the concentration, start with 100ml/10g is low, 100ml/15g harden the fabric), it will slow the water penetration but it won't be waterproof. The advantage of PU is that it will be stronger (excellent for the tent groundsheet) and breathable (good for a jacket). The advantage of silicon is that it will be water repellent (excellent for the outer-tent), silicon is more fragile, but easier to apply (PU evaporate quickly, break the gloves (aceton) + create toxic compound). Does anybody knows about the silicon + WS toxicity? I'll post a video on youtube.</p>
<p>IS IT HARMFUL TO SKIN? IF I APPLY TO MY SHIRTS, IS IT SAFE?</p>
<p>silicon is inert, PU too</p>
Painting it on fabric is ok.<br><br>After it's cured you shouldn't have any problems.
<p>How much did you spend on this all together?</p>
I already had all the stuff.<br><br>The Mineral Spirits are under a couple of US dollars, and the 100% silicon caulk is about the same.<br><br>It's not an expensive project unless you try it on a $400.00 sport jacket....<br>
<p>How much did you spend on this all together?</p>
<p>How much did you spend on this all together?</p>
<p>How much did you spend on this all together?</p>
<p>Okay, so I want to use this for a science fair project. If I make the 'spray' the night before will it still last for the day after or not? Will it evaporate or still work for the next day?</p>
<p>The mixture begins curing as soon as you mix it.</p><p>The next day you will have a glob of silicon caulk in the shape of whatever container you stored it in.</p><p>You need to mix it and use it immediately.</p>
<p>Does fabric treated this way still breathe / allow air to pass through it?</p>
No, the concoction fills in the gaps in the threads and pretty much locks them together.<br>
<p>beware : doesnt work with acid cured silicon (the one that smells like vinegar) but only oxime cured</p>
<p>Are you sure? It looks like Silicone I on the bottle, which I believe is the vinegar-type solution. </p><p>[I haven't done this in years and can't remember what kind of silicone I originally used, but I have a lot of vinegar on hand.]</p>
Hi! I did this last night, but I think I did it wrong :( I applied the mixture to a jacket, but after it dried it had that white chalky deposit spotted here and there on the jacket [see picture]. Anyone know what I might have done wrong? And what I could do to get ride of the white spots? <br><br>For context, I used about a quarter of the same silicone tube as in the picture and about a quart of the minerals like the author said he used. Checked to make sure all the silicone had been dissolved, and the mixture was about as thick as watery glue or maybe oil. <br><br>I'm thinking maybe I could use more mineral spirits and rub at those sections with a toothbrush to dissolve the deposit? Any input or comments?<br><br>It worked though, definitely is waterproof though! I poured water on it and it beaded off. Also saw the surface I accidentally spilled some of the solution on and after the rain this morning the water was beaded on the surface.
<p>The only thing i can think of is maybe the mineral spirits lifted something out of the fabric.<br>Maybe detergent residue that wasn't rinsed out completely?</p><p>Let me know if a toothbrush and mineral spirits might dissolve and lift the spots out.</p>
<p>ACTUALLY i had just thought of that myself! I did wash this jacket recently because I wanted it to be clean before waterproofing BUT i had only hang dried it after since i didn't want to use the dryer. I really think its detergent. I'm wondering if water and a tooth brush might be a better choice. I'll post with updates. Thanks for the quick reply!</p>
<p>The problem with water is if the residue is already waterproofed it will be wasted elbow grease.<br>I hope something works.</p>
Yes that's my fear as well. All I can hope is it worked. I soaked the jacket in a bucket of hot water and scrubbed it up with a toothbrush on all the patches of white until they went away. It's drying now so I'll update later :)
<p>Also! The jacket is 100% cotton if that helps</p>
Does this recipe work on polyester oxford fabric?
You will need to try it in a small, inconspicuous spot if you have doubts.<br><br>I do not know the affect may have on any manmade fabrics, other than the Flags I treat before putting them on the flagpole.<br><br>Mineral Spirits in general do not attack most fabrics.
I bought a used hamilton beech mixmaster at the goodwill and mixed up a ketchupy batch of your recipe for my Alaknak tent. I applied it onto the outside tent top liberally to the seams and the entire top. Looks like it penetrated and adhered very nicely. I will keep you in thw loop once it starts to rain here.
<p>Good idea for mixing a batch.</p><p>Let me know how your project works when it's raining.</p>
Completed painting a nice thick coat onto the outside tent top yesterday and last night it stormed pretty good. This morning I opened the tent door and found it bone dry and water pooling on the tent top with no leaks! I think it worked!
<p>I call that excellent planning on your part.</p><p>Glad it worked as advertised.</p>
<p>After the waterproofing has been applied and is dried, does it stick to itself when folded??</p>
<p>Not thick, I am looking to waterproof tent siding on a pop up trailer. I just want to make sure it wont stick to other layers as it is in the lowered position.</p>
<p>You should be good to go then.</p>
<p>No, but the question raises another question....</p><p>How thick of a coat are you planning on putting on the article?</p><p>Most of the fabric I have coated the silicon is thin enough to soak in between the threads and not leave a layer that is thick enough to cause any problems.</p><p>Thank You for checking it out, and I hope it works well for your purposes.</p>
<p>what is the price of the made 1 liter? Is it as good as Always Dry products?</p>
<p>I make no comparisons to other Instructables or commercial products.</p><p>The 'cost' will vary from maker to maker and the cost of materials and the concentration.</p>
<p>I actually tried this last night and I'm anxious to test the pieces of fabric out. My only concern is that I'm waterproofing a backpack that I am selling and I don't want any of my customer's walking around like complete fire hazards. I can't find anything that states that the mineral spirits loses flammability as the vapors go away. Please help!</p>
<p>The fumes are the flammable part of mineral spirits.</p><p>I have never put a match to silicon caulk to see if it is flammable.</p>
<p>yes how long does it last i am interested in this idea, and i look to coat clothes that will be wet most of the time., can it last a year being emerged in ocean water and washed every 2 days??</p>
<p>There are too many variables in your question. I cannot predict anything because it will depend on the saturation of the Silicon in the fabric, the type of fabric, the detergents used as well as the absorption the fabric is capable of. </p><p>It will not provide the protection of high quality rain gear that is designed for your job description.</p><p>That being said, if you get it into the fabric in a dense enough coating for your requirements it will not breathe well and probably feel clammy in short order.</p><p>Try a top and pants in a light gel to nearly liquid consistency, roll it on, then force it into the fabric with a squeegee to ensure penetration.</p><p>Let it cure and try it.</p><p>The Silicon caulking i use has a 50 year life expectancy.</p><p>I wish you luck.</p><p>Crab Boat or Lobsterman?</p>
<p>how long does the water proofing last for after washing?? a particular beeze wax method described on another site claims if you heat beeze wax until melted, applying a thick coat over the material will be proofed for a year. </p><p>regards cam</p> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
<p>The Silicon I used has a 50 year life expectancy. A lot will depend on the penetrations and density of the silicon caulking in the mixture.</p>
<p>also can this be used on coloured fabrics without affecting the colour of the fabric?</p>

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