Tablesaws come with throat plate blade slots that are too wide for safe cuts on narrow boards.

Many aluminum saws and Sears saws come with thin throat plates that are difficult to duplicate with a zero clearance slot.

By  epoxying a piece of masonite under your throat plate, and adding a filler strip, you can  rip thin pieces much more safely.
Cut offs don't fall into the slot and kickback at you; and you have a perfect mark of where the blade cuts - in front of the blade.

You can also add a splitter pin  (ten cents) after the blade in a couple of seconds.  Check out the splitter in step 4. It even works with thick plates.

After ripping a few million linear feat of lumber at the wood shows demonstrating the Grip-Tite,  I have become a firm believer in zero clearance plates, as well as not putting my fingers close to a saw blade.

Jerry Jaksha

This is a redo of an earlier instructable that I somehow unknowingly removed.

I put in a link to a 1 minute video  that shows cutting thin strips on a tablesaw with this zero clearance plate.
Warning! It is advertising a hold down/ feeder. I don't cut thin strips using my fingers and a push stick. Any hold down is better than your fingers. If you clamp hold downs before and after the blade your rip cuts are much much much safer.
Safe table saw cuts using $29.95 feeder www.grip-tite.com - YouTube

Step 1: Epoxy support masonite under plate.

First clean the bottom of the plate with solvents like acetone and lacquer thinner, then sand.
Use epoxy to glue a piece of masonite or plywood under the plate.  Be sure to keep it away from the edge support areas.

Wood glue will not work.
Super glue will not work- too brittle.

On a cheap jobsite saw, you may have to do a some modification, but you can make it work even when nothing supports the wood on one side.  Make the support plate span the same area as the open space on those.

great idea!
Excellent idea. Thanks.
This is a very good idea for the thin throat plates that are stock on various models. I set up a forstner bit and drill in some plywood just over the thickness of the stock plate (then use a flush trim bit to match the pattern of the plate) then adjust with the screws to get it completely flat. However, it does not always go so smooth and the plywood can cup easily. The only thing that concerns me is the sanding of the wood to get it flush with the insert??? Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of keeping it true and flat? Good job none the less!
aaah you should never say &quot;any&quot; - as in &quot;for any table saw&quot; - my table saw doesn't have a &quot;throat plate blade slot&quot; at all so this won't work. <br> <br>The only way to create a zero clearance throat for ANY tablesaw is to place a sheet of masonite (or similar) over the entire table top and then raise the blade through it. <br> <br>You should have written &quot;most&quot; instead of &quot;any&quot; - but I hate that term to because it almost always excludes me :-(
&quot;too&quot; instead of &quot;to&quot; (I hate comment systems that won't allow you to correct your typos).
Are you really that hung up on how the guy types out his grammatical errors?
Me too!
Excellent work. Now you've solved a problem with a lots of solutions that i've been thought. thanks for sharing
I have a couple of old Craftsman table saws with the thin throat plates. Making new inserts for them is a pain. I have made some out of aluminum and phenolic sheet. Your idea is pretty neat so I gave you 4 stars.
Very interesting, specially step 4.

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Bio: DIY is a way of life for me, building a geodesic dome house, a swimming pool, solar water and house heaters, passive solar house (in ... More »
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