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Meet the Eclips3D2. The (arguably) highest quality, best looking, highest performance consumer 3D printer for less than $3000. But you already knew that, didn't you? ;) Ok maybe you didn't, but now you know! Lets get right into things!

Head on over to www.eclips3D.com for all the info about this printer. The printer is open sourced, and you can download everything you need to get started here!

Please note that this instruction guide is FAR FROM COMPLETE, please go forth at your own risk! The guide will be completed over the next few weeks. I am not responsible for any damage caused by this printer or any components of it. By building your own 3D printer from this kit, you assume all responsibility for anything that may occur. Please be careful and happy printing!

Step 1: Overview

This step is actually a step, believe it or not! Basically, this step is just a ton of pictures of the Eclips3D2. And why? Because you should have a good idea of what you're building before you actually build it. No but seriously, this will help you have a better understanding of where parts go as you build each sub assembly, and this will greatly help if you ever get confused during a step. Always keep the end goal in mind. Good luck!

Step 2: Y Gantry Assembly Part 1

Parts Needed

1x B4 - Y Gantry

2x D4 - M3 x 14mm SHCS

2x D8 - M5 x 14mm SHCS

2x D18 - M3 Washer

4x D19 - M5 Washer

2x G3 - Idler Spacer Short (3x5x10mm)

2x G6 - GT2 Idler Pulley

4x G9 - F625ZZ Bearing

Assembly

1. Assemble the 4 idler assemblies. There are 2 pairs of each type.

a. The first idler type uses bolt D4 as the post. First insert one washer D18 onto the bolt. Then slide on G3 idler spacer. Next, add G6 idler over the aluminum tube. Finally, add one washer D19. This washer should go around the tube as well.

b. The second idler type uses bolt D8 as the post. Slide 2x bearing G9 onto the bolt, ensuring the flanges face away from each other. Then, add one washer D19 to the bottom.

2. Attach idler assemblies to Y Gantry B4. Idlers of the same type will be mounted to the same face of the plate. Take special notice of the last picture, which shows the position of the idlers relative to the only hole on this part which is not symmetrical.

Step 3: Y Gantry Assembly Part 2

Parts Needed

1x D4 - M3 x 14mm SHCS

1x G3 - Idler Spacer Short (3x5x10mm)

Assembly

1. Assemble the endstop post by sliding the idler spacer G3 over bolt D4.

2. Attach the endstop post assembly to the Y Plate. It goes into the same hole mentioned in the previous step. Take notice that the post is mounted on the same face of the plate as the gt2 toothed idlers.

Step 4: Y Gantry Assembly Part 3

Parts Needed

1x F1 - Hiwin 250mm Rail

6x D3 - M3 x 8mm SHCS

Assembly

1. Insert 6x bolt D3 into the holes of linear rail F1 for prep.

2. Place the linear rail on the Y Axis Plate and align bolt holes. Screw in all the bolts very loosely. Note orientation to ensure the linear rail is not installed on the wrong side. It should be on the opposite face as the endstop post from the previous step.

3. While pushing the linear rail down, snug up all of the bolts. This is to ensure the linear guide is perfectly parallel with the Y Axis Plate. Once all the bolts are snug, go back and tighten them all down tightly, but not gorilla tight.

Step 5: X Carriage Assembly Part 1

THIS STEP WILL BE CHANGING WITH THE UPDATED GANTRY IN V2.1

Step 6: CoreXY Linear Rails

Parts Needed

1x B1 - Top Plate

2x F1 - Hiwin 250mm Rail

12x D3 - M3 x 8mm SHCS

Assembly

1. Place linear rails F1 onto base plate B1. The 10 holes in the linear rail should line up with the threaded holes in the base plate.

2. Insert 6x bolts D3 into each linear rail. Take note of the bolt pattern, not all holes are used.

3. Loosely screw in the bolts. You should still be able to easily shift the linear rail. The bolts will be tightened in a later step.

Step 7: CoreXY Motion Control

Parts Needed

8x D13 - M3x40mm black SHCS

2x E1 - Nema 17 48mm

8x G4 - Motor Spacer (3x10x30mm)

G7 - GT2 20T Drive Pulley

Assembly

1. Prepare the two stepper motors D13 with G7 drive pulleys. Note that one should be facing up and the other down. Their exact position is not important and will be adjusted later, it's better to mount them low for now so they don't interfere.

2. Note which side each motor goes on. Keep in mind we will be flipping the plate, so make sure the motor follows the side it should be on.

3. Starting with the left side (when looking at the plate from the orientation in picture 4) prop up the top plate with your hand. Place the appropriate stepper motor under the plate, take note of the orientation of the white plug. Slide 4x bolt D13 through the holes in the top plate, and slide G4 spacers over each bolt. Then, place the motor under that and align with bolts. TIghten bolts. Ensure the motor spacers are set in the circular indents cut into the top plate.

4. Repeat this process with the right side using the other motor. Again, note the orientation of the plug.

Step 8: Adding Y Axis Linear Guides

Parts Needed

2x F2 - Hiwin MGN12H Bearing

Assembly

1. Align the black plastic rail for bearing F2 with the mounted metal rail on the top plate. Carefully slide the bearing onto the metal rail. DO NOT LET THE BEARING COME OFF THE RAIL, IT WILL DAMAGE THE BEARING.

2. Repeat this process for the other side, again be careful to keep the bearings toward the center of the rail to avoid them accidentally coming off the ends!

Step 9: Adding Y Axis

Parts Needed

1x Completed Y Axis Assembly

8x D10 - M3x6mm black BHCS

Assembly

1. Place the Y axis assembly over the two bearings like shown. Take note orientation.

2. Use 4x bolt D10 on each side to secure the y axis assembly. Keep bolts loose, they will be tightened later.

Step 10: Y Axis Endstop Bracket

Parts Needed

1x A4 - Y Endstop Bracket

2x D10 - M3x6mm black BHCS

1x D4 - M3 x 14mm SHCS

Assembly

1. Mount Y endstop bracket A4 on the right side of the top plate using bolts D10. Snug bolts.

2. Insert bolt D4 onto the opposite side in the appropriate hole. This is to ensure the bearing will not come off the rail on this side.

Step 11: Align Linear Guides

Parts Needed

None

Assembly

1. First, make sure the bolts in the two rails are loose and the bolts connecting the y axis to the bearings are loose.

2. Take the left rail and push it to the right. While pushing it to the right, snug down all 6 bolts in the rail.

3. Push the y gantry all the way to the back of the rail. The posts for the motors should stop the gantry before the bearings come off the rail.

4. While pushing the y axis back, ensuring both sides of the y axis are contacting the motor posts, snug down the 8 bolts attaching the y axis to the bearings.

5. Move the y axis slightly forward so you can access the last bolt in the right rail. Snug this down, but do not tighten too much.

6. Move the y axis almost all the way forward. Then, snug the front most bolt.

7. Snug down the rest of the bolts in the right side rail.

8. Test alignment by moving y gantry forward and back. It should have consistent smooth movement along the entire travel. If it does, go back and tighten down all bolts.

Step 12: Add CoreXY Pulleys

Parts Needed

3x G2 - Idler Spacer Extender (3x10x15mm)

6x G3 - Idler Spacer Short (3x5x10mm)

3x D4 - M3 x 14mm SHCS

3x D5 - M3 x 30mm BHCS

6x D18 - M3 Washer

6x D19 - M5 Washer

6x G6 - GT2 Idler Pulley

Assembly

1. Assemble the 3 short idler assemblies. Begin each assembly with bolt D4. First, slide on one M3 washer D18. Then, slide on the short idler spacer G3. Next, add one idler G6 over the idler spacer tube. Finally, add one M5 washer D19.

2. Install the 3 idler assemblies in the positions shown in the third picture. Ensure the M5 washer on the bottom does not get pinched while tightening the bolts, it should remain loose even when the bolts are tightened.

3. Assemble the 3 tall idler assemblies. Begin each assembly with bolt D5. Then, slide on an M3 washer D18. Next, slide on the short idler spacer G3. Then, add one idler G6 over the idler spacer tube. To complete the idler, add one M5 washer D19 then one taller idler spacer G2.

4. Install the 3 tall idler assemblies in the positions shown.

5. Ensure all the idlers spin freely before moving on.

Step 13: Z Rod Top Brackets

Parts Needed

4x D8 - M5 x 14mm SHCS

2x G8 - M10 Upper Rod Bracket

Assembly

1. Place the upper rod brackets G8 on the top plate as shown. Ensure the set screws are facing inwards towards each other.

2. Add 2x bolt D8 to each rod bracket. Leave these loose so the rod bracket can still move around. It will be tightened down later.

Step 14: Add First Belt

Video to replace pictures

Step 15: Add Second Belt

Video to replace pictures

Step 16: Add Y Axis Endstop

Note, pictures were taken slightly out of order. Y axis endstop is also now angled, endstop mounts on the top visible side and m2.5 hex nuts go opposite. Endstop bracket has built in hook for guiding cables below the belt.


Parts Needed

1x E5 - Endstop Switch

2x D2 - M2.5x12mm BHCS

2x D20 - M2.5 Hex Nut

Assembly

1. Align endstop switch E5 against the endstop bracket. Ensure the lever is facing down so that the y axis linear bearing will trigger it.

2. Insert 2x bolts D2 through the endstop. Use 2x nuts D20 from the back side and tighten the bolts. The nuts should have recessed slots in order to hold them in place and keep them from spinning as you tighten. Do not overtighten.

Step 17: Z Gantry Assembly Part 1

Parts Needed

1x B3 - Z Plate

2x D15 - M4x10mm black BHCS

1x F6 - Anti-Backlash Nut

Assembly

1. Gather up the parts, ensure you have the spring and the small top piece which goes with the anti-backlash nut.

2. Insert the anti backlash nut F6 through the center hole of z plate B3. Note the position of the extra hole in the Z plate to ensure you do not install F6 from the wrong side.

3. Insert 2x bolt D15 into the anti-backlash nut. Tighten down.

Step 18: Z Gantry Assembly Part 2

Parts Needed

8x D15 - M4x10mm black BHCS

2x F4 - M10 Flanged Linear Bearing

Assembly

1. Insert the two bearings F4 into the Z plate. They should be a fairly snug fit so ensure you are inserting them straight or they may not go.

2. Use 4x bolt D15 in each bearing in order to secure to Z plate. Tighten down.

Step 19: Z Gantry Assembly Part 3

Parts Needed

1x D5 - M3 x 30mm BHCS

Assembly

1. Insert bolt D5 from the top side of the Z plate in the last remaining tapped hole. Screw this bolt all the way down and tighten at the end.

2. Make sure your anti-backlash nut still has the spring and the small additional black piece with it. You will need these two parts before you incorporate the Z axis to the frame.

Step 20: Prepare Build Plate

Parts Needed

1x E7 - 200mm 24v silicone heater

1x G20 - BuildTak

1x G21 - 8x8 3M adhesive sheet

1x G22 - Aluminum Build Platform

Assembly

1. Apply the silicone heater E7 to the bottom side of build plate G22. Note the bottom side is the side without the chamfers on the holes. Use adhesive sheet G21 to attach the heater to the plate. Apply the adhesive to the aluminum first, then use that to adhere the heater pad.

2. Apply BuildTak sheet G20 (or other bed surface of your choice) to the top side of the aluminum plate. Use a credit card to ensure bubble free application.

Step 21: Z Gantry Assembly Part 4

Parts Needed

3x D12 - M3x30mm silver FHCS

3x G19 - Thumb Screws

3x silicone tubes (these replace the springs seen in this guide)

Assembly

1. Insert 3x bolts D12 into build plate. Tighten these all the way down, but do not over-tighten.

2. Align the bolts from the build plate over the 3 holes in the z axis plate.

3. Insert the 3x silicone tubes inbetween the bed and the z axis plate. These replace the springs seen in the photos.

4. Once all silicone tubes are in place, add thumb screws G19 to the bottom of each bolt. Tighten these all the way down (don't have to go crazy).

Step 22: Assemble E3D Titan Extruder

Parts Needed

1x A3 - Extruder Bracket

1x E2 - Nema 17 40mm

1x G23 - E3D Titan Extruder

Assembly

1. Follow the official E3D assembly guide in order to build your E3D Titan Extruder assembly. Instead of using their bracket design, simply swap in part A3. Take special note of the bracket as well as the motor orientation. When applicable, be sure to follow the steps for the 1.75mm bowden version

https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly

Step 23: Prepare Corner Extrusions

Parts Needed

4x C1 - Vertical Extrusion

7x C8 - Slot Cover (360mm)

1x C10 - Slot Cover (300mm)

Step 24: Attach Corner Extrusions

Step 25: Front Panel Preparation

Step 26: Side Panels

Step 27: Base Plate Assembly Part 1

Step 28: Base Assembly Part 2

Step 29: Base Assembly Part 3

Step 30: Base Assembly Part 4

Step 31: Base Plate Integration

Step 32: Z Axis Integration

Step 33: Hotend Assembly

Step 34: Hotend Integration

Step 35: Electronics Wiring 1

Step 36: Electronics Wiring 2

Step 37: Cable Managment

Step 38: First Steps!

<p>I'm trying to build a printer on my own where i have put the heating bed a constant and the (xy) axes on the z-axis. and it is not going great for me. do you have any suggestions for me??</p><p>I would be grateful if you could mail me this instructable as a pdf. My email-id is hemanth7764@gmail.com</p>
<p>Well I'm not quite sure what your problem is so unfortunately I can't offer any helpful advice! If you give me a bit more information I'd be happy to give some advice!</p><p>A PDF for assembly will be available on my website once the guide is complete!</p>

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