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Efficient production of Iron(II) Oxide (Fe2O3)

Efficient production of Iron(II) Oxide (Fe2O3)
While experimenting with different ways to make Iron Oxide to use in an exothermic reaction demonstration, I tried all the different ways that I found online with varied results. This is the method that I have developed which seems to be the fastest way to Efficiently produce Iron(II) Oxide. This will produce a fine redish brown powder which I believe to be Fe2O3. It works very well in some exothermic reactions.

Chemistry is my new hobby (very new) so forgive me if I make mistakes in terminology, or worse.
 
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Step 1Materials

You will need the following items to follow this guide.

1. Steel wool. (I use Grade #0000 Other grades will work but I use the finest for faster results)
You can get this at any paint store, including the paint department at Wal-Mart.

2. A flat, non-reactive, non-porous, clean surface to work on. (I use the glass tray from an old microwave.)

3. 2 spray bottles. (1 if you don't use salt)
One of these should be non-transparent because it will hold hydrogen peroxide and any light will quickly cause decomposition of the peroxide. You can buy small dark bottles of peroxide at most drug stores, including Wal-Mart.

4. Table Salt. (optional)
A cup or so will last a while for most people.

5. 3% (or higher) Hydrogen Peroxide.

6. A plastic spoon (or something like it)

7. A magnet that will fit in your spoon (or whatever) without protruding over the edge.

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32 comments
May 21, 2012. 1:46 PMPopopopper says:
I thought Fe2O3 was ferric oxide, not iron oxide.
Dec 14, 2011. 6:50 PMsememememememe says:
i am more then 99% sure that Fe2O3 is not iron(II) oxide but is actually iron(III) oxide.
just so you know
Jul 19, 2010. 1:45 PMYoungPyro19 says:
I received 14g of Fe2O3 from rusting 1 sheet of grade #000 steel wool.
Jun 15, 2011. 9:11 AMM4industries says:
Excellent yield! I wish I could get 14g from just one sheet.
Jun 15, 2011. 2:37 PMYoungPyro19 says:
Thanks. <=^)
Mar 1, 2011. 5:42 PMilpug says:
You have shown us how to make Iron oxide, now show us a easy way to make powdered aluminum!
Dec 22, 2010. 5:46 PMrazorednight says:
Um, I don't want to spoil anyone's fun - if you want to make iron oxide through electrolysis or soaking steel wool in salty water, carry on. Whatever floats your boat, right? But as westfw pointed out, iron oxide is available to buy from pottery supply houses. For instance, if you go to www.ctmpotterssupplies.co.uk and download their catalogue (pdf),  you'll see on page 7 that "Iron Oxide, Red Natural" can be bought at £2.65 per 1 KG bag, or £38.75 for 25 KG of the stuff.  Of course, you can buy 2 KG bags, 5 KG bags... whatever amount you think you'll need for your "pottery" project.

That's a UK site, but I'm sure other countries have potters supplies houses.  And this route also gives you an automatic answer to the possibly troublesome question What do you want iron oxide for?  For my pottery of course!  Look where I bought it from!
Nov 10, 2010. 2:12 PMilluminatis says:
the most efficient way that i have found(and the easiest, requiring no chemicals) is to get a large jar fill it with salt water, then get some large nongalvanized nail, then you need one of those ac to dc plug in converters.wrap the positive side wire around the nail, and drop it into the jar, on the other side of the jar submerge a bit of the exposed negative wire, tape the wires to the side of the jar n wait, in a day or so, the nail will dissolve, leaving oxide at the bottom. filter and repeat
Dec 12, 2009. 12:00 AMniertap says:
the quickest way would be to burn it and then spray it with NaOH solution. (from a scientific perspective)


The red kind is Fe(III)2O3
the black kind is Fe(II)O

The black kind is made by burning steel wool.  This will slowly turn into red kind if kept below 575C (so it will)

Sodium hydroxide will make the best catalyst because it will more actively oxidize the iron.

If you're going to use this for thermite keep in mind what you're using it for.
The black kind will produce more molten iron.
The red kind will burn much hotter.
also the red kind needs more Al powder/ weight than the black kind


Jul 12, 2010. 7:11 AMArano says:
drop the bi... stick to iron(roman number)-oxide... there are 3 different ironoxides: 1. iron(II)oxide, FeO which is black, disproportionates to the third between 300°C and 575°C 2. iron(III)oxide, Fe2O3 which is brown/red 3. iron(II,III)oxide, Fe3O4 also black, spinel structur, much more restitant to heat, water and acids than the other two
Dec 8, 2009. 12:22 PMvermeuliscious says:
Wouldn't simply lighting the steel wool on fire and letting it burn produce the same result in much less time? Or are you concerned that it would be contaminated heavily with black iron oxide?
Jan 8, 2010. 3:16 PMvermeuliscious says:
Can you elaborate? how is it different, and when you say 'usable' is it just as good for thermite as the vinegar oxidation, or no? Are you speaking from experience or speculation?

Just curious, not trying to badger you ;)
Jan 7, 2010. 5:38 AMpyrorower says:
Plus when you burn steel wool it gives off smoke as well which is matter lost.
Jan 8, 2010. 3:14 PMvermeuliscious says:
Well OK, but at $2 for a bale of steel wool I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke.
Jan 8, 2010. 4:29 PMpyrorower says:
I see your point. Plus when I think about it, the amount lost is minuscule anyhow... Though I think you could have the black iron oxide problem. I'll let you know as soon as I get more batteries :P
Jan 7, 2010. 5:41 AMpyrorower says:
Just a tip to yield faster oxidation: try adding in some vinegar or other acid to etch the surface of the steel wool, providing more surface area for the reaction to take place. The ratio can be found on this page of Laral's instructable.
Dec 11, 2009. 4:39 PMvince 09 says:
carb. or break parts cleaner will do wonders for you just a couple sprays and all oil is gone and it dries extremely fast
Dec 5, 2009. 5:57 PMreedz says:
One thing you can do with this is determine if your "sodium catalyst" is working, report times and colors every ten-fifteen seconds or so, use one with the sodium and one without.
Also, I would look into using electricity in this, I'm not positive, but I believe a low electric current accompanied by moisture would speed up the oxidation process.
Dec 7, 2009. 6:36 AMPKM says:
The salt will mostly stay as salt, I suspect, though you might get small amounts of iron chloride and sodium hydroxide.  Both of these are many times more soluble in water than iron oxide, however, so thoroughly washing your product in tap water will remove most of these contaminants.  You should probably do it anyway, actually.
Dec 5, 2009. 7:18 PMironsmiter says:
"Iron Oxide to use in an exothermic reaction"
AKA, Thermite? :-)

How does peroxide produced rust compare in your reaction to plain old BURNED steel wool? a 9volt battery serves well to ignite MANY many steel wool fires...Added bonus the icky anti-rust oils serve as fuel to further the ignition sequence.
Dec 5, 2009. 8:20 PMDoctor What says:
What a nice result!
Dec 5, 2009. 5:28 PMuncle_al_0 says:
Nice 'ible, I've been looking for a good way to make iron oxide to avoid having to purchase it.  I'll have to give this a try when I get home.
Dec 5, 2009. 11:51 PMwestfw says:
Um, I'm of the general impression that purchased iron oxide is cheaper than, say, steel wool.  Assuming you can find a local place that sells it as concrete pigment or pottery ingredient, rather than having to buy from  a "chemical dealer."


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