Chemistry is my new hobby (very new) so forgive me if I make mistakes in terminology, or worse.
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Signing UpStep 1Materials
1. Steel wool. (I use Grade #0000 Other grades will work but I use the finest for faster results)
You can get this at any paint store, including the paint department at Wal-Mart.
2. A flat, non-reactive, non-porous, clean surface to work on. (I use the glass tray from an old microwave.)
3. 2 spray bottles. (1 if you don't use salt)
One of these should be non-transparent because it will hold hydrogen peroxide and any light will quickly cause decomposition of the peroxide. You can buy small dark bottles of peroxide at most drug stores, including Wal-Mart.
4. Table Salt. (optional)
A cup or so will last a while for most people.
5. 3% (or higher) Hydrogen Peroxide.
6. A plastic spoon (or something like it)
7. A magnet that will fit in your spoon (or whatever) without protruding over the edge.
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just so you know
That's a UK site, but I'm sure other countries have potters supplies houses. And this route also gives you an automatic answer to the possibly troublesome question What do you want iron oxide for? For my pottery of course! Look where I bought it from!
The red kind is Fe(III)2O3
the black kind is Fe(II)O
The black kind is made by burning steel wool. This will slowly turn into red kind if kept below 575C (so it will)
Sodium hydroxide will make the best catalyst because it will more actively oxidize the iron.
If you're going to use this for thermite keep in mind what you're using it for.
The black kind will produce more molten iron.
The red kind will burn much hotter.
also the red kind needs more Al powder/ weight than the black kind
Not to call you in to question, as you seem to be more experienced than I am, but where did you find information on the identification of the two forms? ( Fe(III)2O3/Fe(II)O ) I keep finding conflicting information. Most people call the red compound Iron(II) Oxide and the black Iron(III) Oxide. Of course, most people write the formula for the black compound as Fe3O4 too.
Your identification makes more sense. Burning should produce a compound with less, not more, Oxygen. Iron(III) Oxide would be a compound containing Fe(III), not one containing 3 Fe. I guess I should change the name of this to bi-Iron(III) trioxide? Or should I drop the bi? Is that politically correct?
Just curious, not trying to badger you ;)
Also, I would look into using electricity in this, I'm not positive, but I believe a low electric current accompanied by moisture would speed up the oxidation process.
A DC current would definitely speed it up. I actually built a rectifier to use in these experiments but when we were burning the wool I let the rectifier get too hot (was using it with a 24V transformer) and burned it up.
AKA, Thermite? :-)
How does peroxide produced rust compare in your reaction to plain old BURNED steel wool? a 9volt battery serves well to ignite MANY many steel wool fires...Added bonus the icky anti-rust oils serve as fuel to further the ignition sequence.
I'm not convinced that the higher O content is really going to produce more energy in the form of heat either. It sounds good, but the Oxygen to Iron ratio is actually lower. My uneducated "guess" is that this would cause the reaction to be slower. I may create equal amounts of thermite using each and see which burns longer under the same conditions.
In short, I don't know, but the red makes a prettier reaction.
I should also mention that Fe2O3 can be created from Fe3O4 pretty quickly by submerging it into a salt-water solution and adding small amounts of peroxide each time the reaction stops until it is all converted (turned read). The reaction is really cool to watch, but it leads to more trouble separating the product from the solution (takes a long time to dry) unless you have a place where you can boil the liquid out (it smells really bad).