Remove these ads by
Signing Up
Remove these ads by
Signing Up
Remove these ads by
Signing Up
PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format.
You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.
We are the manufacturer of the e-bike conversion kit,if you need,you can contact me.
I do think that dogbeardbirdbeer has a point, in spite of the gruffness of his comment. Due to the lengthening of the frame, the bicycle is structurally weaker than it was originally. Specifically, the area between the seat post and the rear tire. You might avoid future problems by adding a pair of additional braces. I'd say the most efficient placement would be to divide the rear parallelogram into two triangles. In a line similar to the top/front of the rear tire. Just a thought.
I've got a kit from eBay, but I'm concerned that it would not be road legal?
In "Florida", any motorized vehicle needs a license and a plate for a motorcycle. Since there is a second law that states it is illegal to drive any motorized capable vehicle on sidewalks. (Even if you do not use the motor, it is motorized.) Thus, you are left driving on the road, and driving a motorized vehicle on the road requires a license and a tag. The only license and tag allowed on a non-car, is a motorcycle license and motorcycle tag.
Thus, any motor is legal, as long as all other road-vehicle requirements are met. (Mirrors, signal lights, breaks with adequate stopping power for the drive-system, helmet, and break-lights.)
Most states have similar DOT laws. Few states allow motorized vehicles on sidewalks, and most demand similar requirements for motorized vehicles on the roads. Just because you can't find the laws, or because you haven't been caught yet, or they don't actively enforce them... does not mean they don't exist. Ask your insurance company. That is when laws get actively enforced 100%. On the road, it is a lotto gamble.
BTW, Nice setup.
You can get cheaper batteries at lower AH ratings or lower voltages but the
20AH gives good range and is a good fit for this bike.
The rear-wheel/hub motor/controller was the next most expensive at about $200.
However, as others have noted, this really needs more (and more detailed ) instructions and insights:
What was the design process? - Why did you decide on this design over (any) others? What mistakes did you make - and how did you correct them? Explain to the layman why you put that extra tube behind the seat, down to the bottom forks (strength and support, presumably, but what led to its placement, given its lack in the first picture?) You came close to the sort of thing I'm talking about when you mentioned the 2 kick-stands.
Knowing my way around a bike as I do, along with some basics of bracing and welding, I can follow your texts and pictures to create a copy, but others aren't able to do so...
And, besides, I don't want to make a copy - I want to be inspired to expand and adapt stuff to my own wants and needs, which is so much easier when someone can warn you of the pitfalls.
You can see on my site also has a good car
http://www.folding-electric-bicycle.com/
http://www.evalbum.com/2052