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Step 4Troubleshooting and Issues
If you get it all together
Verify that battery (-) connects to the B- terminal of the controller. Connect
voltmeter (-) lead to this point.
Connect voltmeter (+) to the battery side of the main contactor. Check for
full battery voltage. If it is not there, the trouble is in the battery pack, the
cables to it, or the power fuse.
Connect the voltmeter (+) lead to the controller B+ terminal. You should
read a voltage 1 to 5 volts less than the full battery voltage. If this voltage is
zero or close to zero, the trouble is either a bad controller, a bad 250 & resistor
across the contactor, or an incorrectly connected cable between the contactor
and the controller. Trace the cable to make sure it is hooked up right.
Remove and test the 250 & resistor with an ohmmeter. If these check out,
the controller is malfunctioning. If you see full battery voltage at this point,
then the contactor has welded and must be replaced.
TEST 2 Check for main contactor operation and KSI
Turn the key on, place the forward/reverse switch in forward or reverse, and
apply the throttle until its microswitch operates. (In these procedures, we
assume the throttle is equipped with the recommended microswitch.)
This should cause the main contactor to operate with an audible click.
Connect the voltmeter across the contactor coil terminals. You should see
full battery voltage (minus the polarity diode drop).
The controller KSI terminal should also be getting full battery voltage.
Verify this by connecting the voltmeter (-) to the controllers B- terminal,
and the voltmeter (+) to the controllers KSI terminal.
If the contactor and KSI terminal are not getting voltage, thats the problem.
Use the voltmeter to nd out where it is not getting through. Connect the
voltmeter (-) to the controllers B- terminal and check the following points
with the voltmeter (+) lead to trace the ow:
Curtis PMC 1209B/1221B/1221C/1231C Manual 31
TROUBLESHOOTING & BENCH TESTING
1. First, check both sides of the control wiring fuse.
2. Check both sides of the polarity protection diode to make
sure its polarity is correct.
3. Check both sides of the keyswitch.
3. Check both sides of the throttle microswitch.
If the contactor coil and KSI are getting voltage, make sure the contactor is
really working by connecting the voltmeter across its contacts (the big
terminals). There should be no measurable voltage drop. If you see a drop,
the contactor is defective. (We assume the recommended precharge resistor
is in place.)
TEST 3 Check the potbox circuitry
The following procedure applies to the standard throttle input conguration for
these controllers, which is a nominal 5k& pot connected as a two-wire rheostat (0
= full off, 5 k& = full on), and also to 5k&0 congurations. If your installation
uses a controller with a throttle input other than 05k& or 5k&0, nd out what
its range is and use a procedure comparable to the one below to make sure your
throttle is working correctly.
With the keyswitch off, pull off the connectors going to the throttle input
of the controller. Connect an ohmmeter to the two wires going to the
throttle and measure the resistance as you apply and release the throttle. The
resistance at the limits should be within these ranges:
RESISTANCE (in ohms)
STANDARD
05k& POT 5k&0 POT
Zero throttle: 0 50 4500 5500
Full throttle: 4500 5500 0 50
If these resistances are wrong, it is because the pot itself is faulty, the wires
to the pot are broken, or the throttle and its linkage are not moving the
potbox lever through its proper travel. Apply the throttle and verify that the
potbox lever moves from contacting the zero-throttle stop to nearly contact-
ing the full-throttle stop. If the mechanical operation looks okay, replace the
potbox.
hope this all helps leave a comment if you got something to say, and for more infomation check out my website on electric motorcycles
Verify that battery (-) connects to the B- terminal of the controller. Connect
voltmeter (-) lead to this point.
Connect voltmeter (+) to the battery side of the main contactor. Check for
full battery voltage. If it is not there, the trouble is in the battery pack, the
cables to it, or the power fuse.
Connect the voltmeter (+) lead to the controller B+ terminal. You should
read a voltage 1 to 5 volts less than the full battery voltage. If this voltage is
zero or close to zero, the trouble is either a bad controller, a bad 250 & resistor
across the contactor, or an incorrectly connected cable between the contactor
and the controller. Trace the cable to make sure it is hooked up right.
Remove and test the 250 & resistor with an ohmmeter. If these check out,
the controller is malfunctioning. If you see full battery voltage at this point,
then the contactor has welded and must be replaced.
TEST 2 Check for main contactor operation and KSI
Turn the key on, place the forward/reverse switch in forward or reverse, and
apply the throttle until its microswitch operates. (In these procedures, we
assume the throttle is equipped with the recommended microswitch.)
This should cause the main contactor to operate with an audible click.
Connect the voltmeter across the contactor coil terminals. You should see
full battery voltage (minus the polarity diode drop).
The controller KSI terminal should also be getting full battery voltage.
Verify this by connecting the voltmeter (-) to the controllers B- terminal,
and the voltmeter (+) to the controllers KSI terminal.
If the contactor and KSI terminal are not getting voltage, thats the problem.
Use the voltmeter to nd out where it is not getting through. Connect the
voltmeter (-) to the controllers B- terminal and check the following points
with the voltmeter (+) lead to trace the ow:
Curtis PMC 1209B/1221B/1221C/1231C Manual 31
TROUBLESHOOTING & BENCH TESTING
1. First, check both sides of the control wiring fuse.
2. Check both sides of the polarity protection diode to make
sure its polarity is correct.
3. Check both sides of the keyswitch.
3. Check both sides of the throttle microswitch.
If the contactor coil and KSI are getting voltage, make sure the contactor is
really working by connecting the voltmeter across its contacts (the big
terminals). There should be no measurable voltage drop. If you see a drop,
the contactor is defective. (We assume the recommended precharge resistor
is in place.)
TEST 3 Check the potbox circuitry
The following procedure applies to the standard throttle input conguration for
these controllers, which is a nominal 5k& pot connected as a two-wire rheostat (0
= full off, 5 k& = full on), and also to 5k&0 congurations. If your installation
uses a controller with a throttle input other than 05k& or 5k&0, nd out what
its range is and use a procedure comparable to the one below to make sure your
throttle is working correctly.
With the keyswitch off, pull off the connectors going to the throttle input
of the controller. Connect an ohmmeter to the two wires going to the
throttle and measure the resistance as you apply and release the throttle. The
resistance at the limits should be within these ranges:
RESISTANCE (in ohms)
STANDARD
05k& POT 5k&0 POT
Zero throttle: 0 50 4500 5500
Full throttle: 4500 5500 0 50
If these resistances are wrong, it is because the pot itself is faulty, the wires
to the pot are broken, or the throttle and its linkage are not moving the
potbox lever through its proper travel. Apply the throttle and verify that the
potbox lever moves from contacting the zero-throttle stop to nearly contact-
ing the full-throttle stop. If the mechanical operation looks okay, replace the
potbox.
hope this all helps leave a comment if you got something to say, and for more infomation check out my website on electric motorcycles
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ps - great job!
anyway, this is realy great bike ,pity no one is selling proper parts in this backwater country of mine ( i had only made a bicycle with electric hub motor - nothing special this days )
If I wanted to slow down or stop I would think about putting "brakes" on it.
LOL now have fun with that!
artist and song name respectively
Only real fault was it was silent and the folks who decided to walk across the street any place they wanted wouldn't hear me coming till I hit the horn.
All in all, these bikes offer an easy project, really teach about electrical vehicles, and give you a chance to do something for yourself as well have boasting rights as to being 'green' if that impresses your gal like it did my lady in 1998.