This is something I built as a school project.
My woodworking skills and access to machinery being limited, I spent a considerable amount of time planning and further simplifying the structure of the electric violin I was about to build.
You may want to read up on the parts of a regular violin:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Violin
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Violin_construction_and_mechanics
I'd like to thank the folks at bluestemstrings.com, for providing an excellent set of plans free of charge to the general public. They were of immense use to me.
I would also like to thank Ocean Music Ltd. for providing the fittings for this project. (http://www.oceanmusiclk.com/)
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage to property or persons caused while following these instructions.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
1. Two and a half feet of 2*2 inch tonal wood (more on this in the next step)
2. A (25*15)cm piece of any hardwood
3. General purpose rasp
4. Large Clamp
5. 50ml sanding sealer
6. Three pieces of 50 grit sandpaper, two pieces of 100 grit sandpaper, two pieces of 200 grit sandpaper
7. Two part epoxy
8. Dilute Potassium Permanganate (optional, for staining wood)
9. 150ml Varnish
10. Paintbrush
11. Thinner
12. Drill
13. Premade violin parts: endpin, chinrest, tail gut, tailpiece, fingerboard (about $30 if purchased individually)
14. Piezoelectric pickup (more on this in next step) ($10 on ebay)
15. Guitar tuning pegs (two left and two right) (you may use ukulele tuners if you wish) ($10-$25)
16. Violin strings, E,A,D,G gauges ($10-$50)
17. An acoustic violin for comparison while building (optional).











































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Good instructable by the way.
if it possible that someone can make for me ?? (how much it will cost) ?
very nice project. keep on
Ray
the first one is, does the type of wood affect the sound of the violin?
and second, are the parts you have for a 4/4 violin?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-violin-projectIm-currently/
However, a piezoelectric pickup was used in the above link (a very expensive one at that), and from experience I can tell you that a piezo pickup fails to deliver optimal sound. If you do make a cello, go with a magnetic pickup preferably with tone and volume controls. You can make your own (http://bit.ly/fyyRqP) or try a commercially available pickup designed for four strings.
My suggestion is to start researching on the dimensions of a regular cello, and where a cello player holds the instrument. Apparently the top part of the cello soundbox touches the chest and the sides of the lower bout are gripped by the knees. You might want to replicate these critical parts of the structure of a standard cello.
An adjustable endpin is a must, so try looking around hardware stores for something which allows a rod to me moved and held when required.
http://www.uli-boesking.de/rebo/
They build magnetic cello pickups, too.
However I don't see why a magnetic pickup wont work. As long as the strings are made of soft-magnetic material... Since steel is a hard-magnetic material though, finding the correct type of strings would be a problem.
In the end, a piezoelectric pickup seems the easiest way to go. I'll try to implement a magnetic pickup and report back with results.
Once again, thanks for the comment, bulmung.
Just tested out a magnetic pickup, it does work but it has to be close to the strings. You would have to make your own bridge/cut the legs off a bridge. Also the curvature of the bridge would make it very difficult to pickup all the strings, your lowest and highest string would be much louder than the others.
Also wondering what your playing through? To get the best sound from the piezo I suggest an acoustic guitar amplifier or a keyboard amp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrR3CsfD61s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqTKWjnrBc4&feature=channel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qenHv3T75cs&feature=channel
Here both viola and cello are equipped with magnetic pickups and play through tube amps - recorded with a little photocamera:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IIoorpHptg&feature=channel_video_title
its one of those things that just doesnt sound right, that alone makes it AWESOME!
great 'ible and a even better idea, 5*s
However, electric violins have been around for quite a while (so i didn't come up with the concept).
There's an awesome (AWESOME) rendition of "Toxicity" on Youtube featuring electric violins. You should check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMKmQmkJ9gg
wow. that was awesome. you would never expect a violin to be something hardcore like that.
Edit: The girl who's playing the rhythm has a 5 string. The girl who's playing lead has no low C. that's why she solos when she does...
It will however produce a smooth cut with the right blade - to save on sanding a fine wood blade will cut slower but smoother...
No seriously, wanted an e-olin for years since I went to a Dave Matthews show. I've built an electric guitar, so how hard can this be? Famous last words...
The lowest I've seen for an electric violin with ebony fittings is $80, on ebay.
Constructive stuff:
You do know that the violin is hollow right? xD lol
Inside the violin is a bass bar and a sound post. But if this is a school project then..... well you can glue the bass bar but the sound post is a problem.
The less glue you use, the better sounding violin you will have.
I'm not sure about varnish though.
What size is it?
Oh and about the strings: I'm in RCM grade 7-8, and I'm using a hand-crafted violin with Eva Pirazzi strings. I know they cost like 110$, but they are almost like the best strings you can get. If this is a school project, i reccomend Dominant brand strings. They're about 50-60$ for great sound. The pirastro obligato aren't a bad choice either.
Steel strings have a different sound because they have lots of overtones. This makes them sound shrill and more like cutting glass than just a sound. The wound strings have less overtones therefore they sound more warm.
But otherwise, this is a GREAT instructable
So even though if you're trying to build a violin with the least glue as possible, remember that you still need enough glue.