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Step 12Mounting LED Strips
We're finally going to be mounting the LED strips on the bike, and after they are wired up, finish this bike. I am using two different strips, a 120cm green strip, and a 72cm blue strip. The green will run up the Down Tube, around the Headstock, and back down the Down Tube. The blue LED strip will run along the chain-stays.
Since I prefer to use as little extra mounting as possible (zip-ties), I used the EL wire itself to hold on the entire green LED strip. The blue LED strip is more vulnerable in its proximity to the derailleur, rear wheel, and primary gears. I had to use multiple zip-ties to prevent the strip from bumping into the gears (not extremely tight, but snug, the zip-ties can go inbetween LEDs and hold them in the gap). You will need to figure out the optimal mounting method for your bike.
***Important Note***
While the LED Strips are not excessively fragile, they are limited in how much abuse they can take. Inside the strip is a flexible piece of copper tape that the LEDs are soldered onto. The weak points are where each 24cm piece is joined to another, and the copper tape cracking from being excessively flexed repeatedly. If you're unlucky and get a bad strip (I have before), or you break a connection from too much flexing (the 24cm sections from one point turn off), you'll need to buy a new strip from eBay, since I've never been able to repair one by cutting away and re-soldering the break.
To put it simply, don't crush the strip with a zip-tie, and don't repeatedly flex it back and forth in a tight bend (stress cracking).
***End Important Note***
Testing the LED Strips
Take your power wires, and touch the ends to your battery pack. Copper/Red-Line should be positive, and silver should be negative.
Green LED Strip (Down Tube)
Hold out the 120cm strip by hanging the halfway point around the headstock to guesstimate how your wiring will be done. The LED strip will be on the sides of the Down Tube, and held in place by the green EL Wire wrapping around it tightly. Run your 120cm power wire up the Seat Tube and hold it in place with other wiring and the green EL wire going down the Seat Tube. I tied a knot in the power wire around any piece of suspension that doesn't flex much.
Blue LED Strip (Chain Stays)
This is the hard one, simply because you have to work in a smaller space. The LED strip will be facing directly downwards on the underside of the bottom chain-stay. Once again, wrap the EL wire tightly around the LED Strip to hold it in place. Near the Seat Tube and primary gears, I had to use multiple zip-ties to keep it from moving. You can take up any excess strip by making the halfway bend extend beyond the Down-Tube.
Since the power wire begins only at the end of the LED strip, it will need to also be held in place by the EL wire on its return trip back to the Seat Tube.
Testing Again
Once again, just tap your power wires to the battery supply, and see if everything turns on correctly.
Power Connectors
Fairly simple. The LED strips have two wires, copper/red-line(positive) and silver(negative). Solder on a 9v Snap-On connector to each one, and connect it to one of the Switchbox 9v connectors. It's semi annoying since the strips are still on the bike, but it's important to minimize excess wiring. Once again, the wiring might have to be backwards for you since the polarity switches between 9v Snap-On connectors.
Since I prefer to use as little extra mounting as possible (zip-ties), I used the EL wire itself to hold on the entire green LED strip. The blue LED strip is more vulnerable in its proximity to the derailleur, rear wheel, and primary gears. I had to use multiple zip-ties to prevent the strip from bumping into the gears (not extremely tight, but snug, the zip-ties can go inbetween LEDs and hold them in the gap). You will need to figure out the optimal mounting method for your bike.
***Important Note***
While the LED Strips are not excessively fragile, they are limited in how much abuse they can take. Inside the strip is a flexible piece of copper tape that the LEDs are soldered onto. The weak points are where each 24cm piece is joined to another, and the copper tape cracking from being excessively flexed repeatedly. If you're unlucky and get a bad strip (I have before), or you break a connection from too much flexing (the 24cm sections from one point turn off), you'll need to buy a new strip from eBay, since I've never been able to repair one by cutting away and re-soldering the break.
To put it simply, don't crush the strip with a zip-tie, and don't repeatedly flex it back and forth in a tight bend (stress cracking).
***End Important Note***
Testing the LED Strips
Take your power wires, and touch the ends to your battery pack. Copper/Red-Line should be positive, and silver should be negative.
Green LED Strip (Down Tube)
Hold out the 120cm strip by hanging the halfway point around the headstock to guesstimate how your wiring will be done. The LED strip will be on the sides of the Down Tube, and held in place by the green EL Wire wrapping around it tightly. Run your 120cm power wire up the Seat Tube and hold it in place with other wiring and the green EL wire going down the Seat Tube. I tied a knot in the power wire around any piece of suspension that doesn't flex much.
Blue LED Strip (Chain Stays)
This is the hard one, simply because you have to work in a smaller space. The LED strip will be facing directly downwards on the underside of the bottom chain-stay. Once again, wrap the EL wire tightly around the LED Strip to hold it in place. Near the Seat Tube and primary gears, I had to use multiple zip-ties to keep it from moving. You can take up any excess strip by making the halfway bend extend beyond the Down-Tube.
Since the power wire begins only at the end of the LED strip, it will need to also be held in place by the EL wire on its return trip back to the Seat Tube.
Testing Again
Once again, just tap your power wires to the battery supply, and see if everything turns on correctly.
Power Connectors
Fairly simple. The LED strips have two wires, copper/red-line(positive) and silver(negative). Solder on a 9v Snap-On connector to each one, and connect it to one of the Switchbox 9v connectors. It's semi annoying since the strips are still on the bike, but it's important to minimize excess wiring. Once again, the wiring might have to be backwards for you since the polarity switches between 9v Snap-On connectors.
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