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Step 4The Switchbox & Battery-Pack Charger
It's time to create the switchbox, which will enable us to easily turn on or off the different components of the bike. The wiring is going to be very compact, but the finished product works very well and is highly durable. To begin with, we'll need to make three evenly spaced holes along the inside base of the Conduit Fitting, leaving some room for each switch. You can start by smashing in the PVC adapter to one side, this is where the power wires will exit.
Drill Bits
Start off with a small bit, around 1/8", and move your way up to 3/4". If you don't have a 3/4" bit, you can grind away for awhile with a 1/2" bit and a lot of chattering teeth. Moving from small to large bits gives you the chance to fix shoddy holes before they become misaligned, along with making it easier to drill through the material.
Gluing Switches
Normally a toggle switch like this is attached to a surface via a hex-nut that screws onto the underside of the switch. Our conduit is too small for this however, so the button must be held in place with some hot glue. One switch at a time, pretty easy stuff.
Power Plug
Take your 1/2" PVC plug, and drill a hole (minimum 1/16" bit) on the outer edge of the plug. Thread the 9v Snap-On Connector wires through the hole This lets it turn and be positioned in the center of the plug. A picture below provides a visual aid to how it will turn out. Hot glue will once again hold down the 9v Snap-On Connector.
Wiring Switches
I used a very unorthodox method of wiring a common positive wire to the switches, but it is extremely effective and compact. I threaded the red wire through the hole of each terminal pin, once all three were in, I pulled back some of the wire, and with my X-Acto knife removed some sheathing, and then applied a great deal of solder to the joint. Any excess can be trimmed off or pushed to the side.
Testing Connectivity
To make sure my wiring was successful, I use the continuity tester from the plug 9v connector to the opposite end of the switches. They all turned out great.
Universal Battery Charger
These are designed to recharge the batteries of hobby RC cars and planes, and it takes a range from 7.2-12v. Snip off the end of their "normal" connector, which would go to a RC battery pack, and solder on a 9v Snap-On connector backwards (red->black, black->red). This can now attach to the battery pack to charge it.
Drill Bits
Start off with a small bit, around 1/8", and move your way up to 3/4". If you don't have a 3/4" bit, you can grind away for awhile with a 1/2" bit and a lot of chattering teeth. Moving from small to large bits gives you the chance to fix shoddy holes before they become misaligned, along with making it easier to drill through the material.
Gluing Switches
Normally a toggle switch like this is attached to a surface via a hex-nut that screws onto the underside of the switch. Our conduit is too small for this however, so the button must be held in place with some hot glue. One switch at a time, pretty easy stuff.
Power Plug
Take your 1/2" PVC plug, and drill a hole (minimum 1/16" bit) on the outer edge of the plug. Thread the 9v Snap-On Connector wires through the hole This lets it turn and be positioned in the center of the plug. A picture below provides a visual aid to how it will turn out. Hot glue will once again hold down the 9v Snap-On Connector.
Wiring Switches
I used a very unorthodox method of wiring a common positive wire to the switches, but it is extremely effective and compact. I threaded the red wire through the hole of each terminal pin, once all three were in, I pulled back some of the wire, and with my X-Acto knife removed some sheathing, and then applied a great deal of solder to the joint. Any excess can be trimmed off or pushed to the side.
Testing Connectivity
To make sure my wiring was successful, I use the continuity tester from the plug 9v connector to the opposite end of the switches. They all turned out great.
Universal Battery Charger
These are designed to recharge the batteries of hobby RC cars and planes, and it takes a range from 7.2-12v. Snip off the end of their "normal" connector, which would go to a RC battery pack, and solder on a 9v Snap-On connector backwards (red->black, black->red). This can now attach to the battery pack to charge it.
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