This project describes how to build a simple, safe, and reliable electronic detonator. All the parts should total under 25$, and all but one of the parts can be bought at radio shack. This detonator includes numerous safety features such as a detachable power supply, an ARM switch, and an indicator light.

Step 1: Parts List

What I like about this project, is that all the parts can be bought in one place, and the one part that couldnt be bought at Radio Shack had to be mail ordered anyway, so I wound up only making one trip. I include the model #'s when I could find them.


1. Project box (As close to 3x2x1.5 as you can get, remember you need enough room to hold the components but you want a good fit for your hand)
2. A momentary push switch (Model: 275-609)
3. Toggle Switch with On/Off Label Plate (Model:275-602)
4. 5mm Green LED (Model: 276-022)
5. 1/8" Mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (Model: 274-251) its a 3 pack see but you only need 1.
6. 1/4" mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (Catalog #: 274-252)
7. 1/8 Mono Phone Plug (Model: 274-286)
8. 2-Conductor Standard Phone Plug (Model: 274-1544) I think thats the one I got, Its got the picture on the website that most looks like mine, however, I'm sure any 1/4" mono (even stereo but then you'd have to pay closer attention to your wiring) plug would work.
9. Soldering Iron and solder
10. 2-Conductor Intercom Wire (Model: 278-857) Im pretty sure thats the wire I bought.
11. Heavy-Duty 9V Snap Connectors (Model: 270-324) Like the other packages it has more then you need
12. 8 AA Battery Holder (Model: 270-407)
13. 8-Pack AA EnercellĀ® Alkaline Batteries (Model: 23-874)
14. Slim Line 2" Alligator Clips (Model: 270-346)
15. Drill with assorted bits
16. Spare hookup wire (You can cut off some of the intercom wire if you need to)
17. Nichrome wire (Can either be bought on e-bay or Unitednuclear.com) make sure you don't get the wire too thick I use unitednuclear.com, but I don't know what gauge it is.
18. I'm assuming you have tools like screwdrivers and wire cutters.
<p>does anybody know at all what gage of nichrome wire to use im 12 so im kind of stuck till i find out</p>
<p>I use 30 gauge Nichrome that i bought from amazon. It's from a company called &quot;Lightning vapes&quot; Use about an inch per detonation with a 9v battery. If you use too little it will melt itself.</p>
<p>i dont think it matters what gauge of nichrome ...fire is fire</p>
You should solder the wires as they can oxidise beneath the tape - destroying the connection.<br>Don't try and use hot glue either. The solder actually joins the two bits of wire, instead of just &quot;holding them together&quot; like tape or hot glue.<br><br>Otherwise... awesome! Sorry for being negative in the beginning, but I actually think this instructable is really cool. The arm switch and detachable power supply are clever... now just to make it remote controlled ;)
<p>or even those cheap motion sensor security for home things can be turned into a wireless detonator</p>
<p>you can make a romote detonator out of one of those keychain finders.. cheap and easy. just disconnect the buzzer from the keychain locate your hot and ground and use a broken christmas light ..done</p>
<p>Has anyone tried using the igniters used for Estes Rocket Engines?</p><p>They are only good for 1 use each but do a better job and probably cut the wait time while you are waiting for the wire to glow!</p>
<p>I'm not very handy but I need some remote detonators. <br>I have some PEP-500 (semtex) laying around that I want to use it on. <br>If anyone has some finished detonators i'll be happy to buy them from you.</p><p>mail me at marco789@safe-mail.net</p><p>Best regards</p><p>Marco</p>
HAHAHAHAHAH 25$ HAHAH. <br> <br>I paid almost 50 for everything.
<p>if u buy from radio shack than yes it probably is 50</p>
Thats because you dont know how to shop =] I can go buy everything from one store for under 20. Dont bash because you cant shop.
I really need help here~! I have 4 big fireworks that I want to set off simultanusly. What should I do to create something like this that i can set off each firework alone or like 2 seconds between each one. **NOTE|** These are big fireworks and if I'm near one when it goes off, well I'm not gonna do that, but my point is I can't just try and light all 4 with a BBQ lighter.<br/>
<p>Check with some of the big firework distributors. I bought a delay switch from one but I'm sorry I get remember witch one it was. But it was for siting of several firework's at once. It was just a board with pins one it. And it had like a pin and when you touch each post it would light the fuse. It is like what the big company that put on the big firework displays. It was just a real small version of it. It was around $ 35.00 not bad for what I wanted it for. I made my own fireworks for a few years it was just for the family I would put on a show. I was like you they where big and I did not want to be close at all. But I now they still sell it. Last year I seen some at the lake using one. If I remember which company it was I will let you know. </p>
I would suggest you look up how to make quick match fuses and just have a wicked long fuse funning off of that.
I really had been on the lookout as to how I could build an electronic detonator which is reasonably safe, simple and reliable and I must say that this article really have given what I was in search of. The features that include for our own safety which are namely the arm switch, the detachable power supply and the indicator light will surely act as an aid for the inexperienced. All this under just $25 makes it an alluring spot to try out. I am planning to get a <a href="http://www.angieslist.com/companylist/san-jose/electrical.htm">San Jose electrician</a> to try it for me, so if it works I will do on my own.
Awesome I've now sorted it!
Don't know what I'm doing wrong but I can't get the nichrome wire to heat up. I've tested the circuit by connecting a buzzer to the clips instead of the wire so i know there is power getting through. Also the LED lights when it is armed but when I push the button the LED goes out. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
25$ HA HA!! I hacked a computer and radio I only have to buy the push swich
Is there any way to rig this so that you do not need the wires leading to the explosive or whatever you are lighting/launching? see, I made several dozen of the flash-bang grenades that were discussed in another forum, and they use blast caps and 400 mesh aluminum, magnesium and thermite... I am worried that I will have to keep replacing the alligator clips because of the heat and power of the explosion. Since the blast caps I use are are electronically wired, I had this idea to fit them with a radio transmission reciever, and have the capability to detonate them from far off, like maybe in the next room over so I am not blinded while my opponents -in air soft or paint ball- ARE -sorry, no italics- blinded and deafened. Another issue is that the wires would need to be extremely long. A radio transmitter would do away with both problems. Could you help me with this?
I used a Piezo electric ighingition system lengthinged the wires and attached gator clips to the end of the wires and it wors great
do you really need the intercom wire,speaker wire,or nichrome wire,or can you use regular wire?
Nichrome wire you definately need. When you put electricity through it the little dwarves light fires inside it and it gets really hot. Thats whats setting off your charge. Although if you use plastic explosive then you do not need nichrome wire, just jam the alligator clips in to it, tho dont expect to get them back. Infact if you want to use plastic explosive, use a wireless detonator and stand back properly. Unless you kno what your doing its hard to estimate the blast radius
You sure there isnt any...alternative to nichrome? Some other kind of wire?
If you can pump enough power through it, 1amp fuse wire glows
haha, the little dwarves light fires XD Are they related to the elves in the fridge who turn off the light? XD
and the elves are related to the fairies that steal your socks from the laundry dryer. Right?
oops! acedentilly put speaker wire in there.ignore that
What do you mean 'Joins 2 other wires'?
I can use 2 9v batteries right? And could the led handle 8 x 1.5 batteries/2 x 9v without a resistor?
About that....i tested it......What happened to my LED(With just a single 9V)? It glowed so bright, the light was white, not green.....plus after a few tries, it burnt out....Idk if it would make a difference with 1.5v, though. I doubt it, since your using 12v of power. I would use one LED, see how it works, and if it goes out, buy a resistor (Idk what Ohms&gt;Volts is.) for about half of the power of your power supply (6v resistor/Something Ohm resistor.)
go 40AWG it like it better and like 35AMG nichrome wire, it gets red hot - Best wishes =)
&nbsp;hi, <br /> I'm good with pyrotechnics but not so great with electronics (except lasers), <br /> doesn't electricity take the easiest path so would just go through the led and not touch the toggle switch?<br /> Also could the led handle 8 batteries without a resistor?<br /> thanks
&nbsp;sorry, push button switch not toggle switch.
will speaker cable work?
&nbsp;I got &nbsp;total of about $$36
&nbsp;Do you have to worry about polarity with the input plug? &nbsp;I have everything working properly (safety switch, LED, Push button, etc..) ....however, If I were to place a wire connecting both alligator clips it short circuits and turns off my LED and my voltage drops to zero, and nothing happens...is this because I soldered them incorrectly to the input plug? &nbsp;If anyone knows please reply, thanx =)
No resistor? I am searching for something like this but I belive the LED wont handle 9 volts it needs a detective.<br />
Actually, nichrome is used in heating elements because of its resistence to oxidation, high resistivity, and high melting temperature, not because its resistivity increases. The resistivity of most (I hesitate to say 'all' because I don't know things) metals increases with temerature. This is because at higher temperatures there are more vacancies, and lattice vibrations (Wikipedia tells me lattice vibrations are also known as phonons) which decreases electron mobility.<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacancy">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacancy</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lattice_vibration">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lattice_vibration</a><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron_mobility">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron_mobility</a><br/>
hehe its called resistance not resistivity<br />
Im 13 and i built 3 a mote controled detinator the best goes for 300 yards away.
Nice! why don't you post an instructable on it?
good job! <br /> mine is made from a mint tin.
i was just wondering instead of nichrome wire would Cuprothal work???<br /> coz i cant get nichrome<br /> Cuprothal gets to 400 celcius<br />
&nbsp;great instructable! nice one!<br />although, i'd always go with the cell phone detonator...wireless! :D<br />...and it used satellites, so you can be however far away.
Now <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Master_a_perfect_inline_wire_splice_everytime/">see here</a>.<br/>Great box, BTW!<br/>
awesome detonator! i have a simpler, more compact/handheld version you should check out<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Cool-Electronic-Detonator/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Super-Cool-Electronic-Detonator/</a><br/>
you can tell which side the wires go to based on which wire on the LED is shorter(or which side is flat, they're on the same side) that's the side the negative input(black wire on batery clips) goes to
How come no resistor for the LED?
Is there a substitute for intercom wire? Btw does anyone think 8 AA batteries could power a miniature christmas light for a couple seconds (only 1 and its the really really small one that's usually wrapped around a christmas tree) or is that not possible. Anybody? lol

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Bio: Working wireless-ly.
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